bantayan in my mind
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BANTAYAN IN MY MIND
(By: Celedonio L. Layon, Jr.)
It has been several decades that I have been away from the
Islands. Though decades have passed, the mere mention of theIslands always tugs at my heart lagi nang my kurot sa puso, ika
nga. The memories of our minds may sometime fade but the
memories of our hearts linger beyond time. The Islands has this
special place in my being. It leaves an indelible mark that forever
makes me a unique person a Bantayanon!
The Religiosity of the Bantayanons
In the mist of time, my heart still recalls the days when life in
the Islands was simple and uncomplicated. Its simplicity,
however, was always ornately adorned with the religiosity of the
people, specially highlighted during the annual Lenten
celebration. We started young in learning our prayers in
preparation for our first communions. Lola Minyang, a venerable
old lady, opened her home for all of us would-be first
communicants to spend the eve of our communion. On the
glorious day we, in our white lacy dresses and sharkskin pantsparaded around the town on our way to the church for our
communion. After the mass, we were all feted with anoks,
sumans, sikwate, ibus, and other delicacies in Lola Minyangs
place. It was a day for merriment for girls and us young boys who
enjoyed running, jumping and romping around.
The chimes of the church bells always called us to hear mass
ands say a prayer during the angelus. The old kampanaryo was
already razed to the ground by a strong typhoon that also blownaway the tisa roofing of the church in the 1950s. At that time,
the big bells were either hung at the trusses of a low-lying shed or
on tugas or batikuling logs on the ground. Probably because the
bells were just a few feet above the ground, its ringing could no
longer be heard in Doong, Butigues, Kampingganon and other
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farther barrios. This, however, did not faze the enthusiasm and
religiosity of the Bantayanons. They continued to revere the Sr.
San Pedro and eagerly anticipated the onset of summer since it
ushered in the Lenten season.
The religiosity of the Bantayanons is also highlighted by the
numerous kapilyas that were erected in almost all iskinitas to
venerate a particular santo or santa. In Binaobao, we had the
kapilyas for Sr. San Jose and Sr. San Rafael Archangel. Bantigue
had been honoring San Damaso while Ticadhad Sta. Cruz. The
novenas for these patron saints were always eagerly anticipated.
After the nightly novena prayers, we were regaled with the
thespian talents of our fellow Bantayanons in their stage play or
drama about love, loyalty, betrayal, the unceasing strugglebetween Christians and Muslims and other comic relief. Although
very amateurish, these plays awakened our imagination about
life. If stage plays were not on schedule, we were entertained by
the dancing jousts. Usually the joust centered on local folk
dances as well as the so-called modern dances. We enjoyed
the cachucha, the curadang,the daling-dalingand others.
The procession of the santas and santos never failed to
evoke religious fervor among the faithful. Every window alongthe procession route would always be aglow with the reverent
candlelight. People on the street knelt before lit candles while
saying their prayers of thanks. The route would blossomed with
paper roses and tinsels tied at the twigs of the pagatgat trees
during the procession of the image of Christ the King. These
street decorations, however, never dampen the religiosity of the
Bantayanons.
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My Early Education
Early in the 1950s I started my elementary grades. There
was only one elementary school in the Poblacion of Bantayan, the
Bantayan Elementary School. There was also only one high
school, the Southern College, an affiliate of the University of
Southern Philippines of Cebu City. At that time there was also only
one other secondary school in the Islands, a government
vocational school in Lawis (Madridejos). There was none in the
Municipality of Santa Fe. Bantayan, then as it is now, was the
educational center of the Islands where the high school students
spoke the native Bantayanon dialect and the languid inflection of
the kinaylon dialect of Santa Fe. For college education the
Bantayanons, the Lawisnon and the Santa Fehanon had to crossthe seas to either Cebu or Negros for their studies.
As a young boy of seven in grade one I had to hike daily
from Bantigue to Ticadto attend classes. I had to do this until I
finished the elementary grades. There were no sikad-sikad,
tricycles, motorcycles, jeepneys or other mode of transport
available then. We had to walk the distance four times a day on
our shoes, bakya or bare feet. We did not mine the distance and
the scorching sun, the banters with friends and classmates alongthe way more than compensated our tired selves.
On the way, to or from school, we often passed via Bontoy, a
short cut from Ticad to Bantigue. When we passed through the
usual route we often spent some times scaling theparel, a wall of
adobe and coral joined together by apog kag itlog, lime and egg
that shielded the churchyard from the kalsada pa-Ticad. We were
told by our lolos and lolas that this parel used to enclose the
church cemetery, thus, we were always on the look out for graves
and the menacing kyag. This is where we also looked for tisa
shards, from the destroyed church roof, to be powdered and used
to glisten our fingernails. We also looked for the multi-hued
glasses that came from the shattered church windowpanes, to
filter the sunshine into multi-colored spectrum.
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From school, especially during the height of summer, we
often took a dip or a dive into the imburnal. This may sound like
a polluted body of water not fit for bathing. Actually the imburnal
was a bridge over an inlet of seawater coming in from Suba to
Bontoy passing along the katunggan of Binabao. The moreadventurous among us used the bridge handrail as diving
platform in plunging into the strong current of the murky
seawater. Of course, not all mothers approved of our delectation
of bathing in this katunggan; thus, many went home prepared for
ear pinching or a motherly whipping.
The Town Plaza
The luxuriant kulo, breadfruit, standing tall and proudaround the perimeter of the town plaza never failed to give us
young pupils refuge from the scorching sun. These stately trees
were planted equidistant to each other ringing the whole plaza. A
little over a dozen of them provided us with fleshy fruit that young
boys surreptitiously harvested to serve their main fare for their
instant dip in the sea or to the well-planned bakasyon to
Panangatan dyutt, Panangatan daku, Mambo and other nearby
islets where the wasay-wasay, sikad-sikad, baliad and other
seashells teemed. The kulo and these delicious shells made ourdays. On several occasions these majestic trees assuaged hunger
fangs from among the less fortunate.
The environ of the town plaza was a quintessential example
of a Spanish administration town planning. Just like any other old
Poblacion it was dominated in one side by the church and the
presidencia across it. Framing the plaza were the antique
Spanish houses with their intricately designed/carved kapiz
windows, ornate vintanillas, thick adobe walls, shinyyakal, tugas,
siyaw, kamagong or barayong floor and red brick roof. These
buildings were huge, spacious and airy-ideal for a humid town like
Bantayan. Most prominent of these casas were those of Don
Pedro Lozadas and the Don Manolo Rubios. Both are still
standing, albeit, the latter is now in a very dilapidated condition
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that it may collapse anytime soon. Still standing are the old
houses constructed in the early decadesof the twentieth century.
These are the houses of the Manzanareses, the Escarios (Pedro
and Isidro) and the Suykos. Although of simpler lines their
architecture evokes a nostalgic longing of the past. At theopposite end, there used to be the antique Spanish houses of
Laysans, Nemesio Acains, Ansao Mercados, and the Dus. These
majestic buildings were burned to the round by the conflagration
that happened in the 1980s. Eaten by the same fire were the old
casas in Suba. This fire brought great changes to the face of
Suba and the town plaza. We can only pine for what it used to be
even as we take the first bold steps toward a transition to the new
and modern Bantayan.
The Nascent Hometown Industries
Bantayanons are fun-loving people. There is no better way
to express their fun than to celebrate it over a glass of spirit.
Some statistics show that its beer consumption is much bigger
than that of the whole province of Bohol, given anytime. It
consumes all kinds of spirits, even the local concoction out of
coco sapthe tuba. Tuba is produced from the fermented sap of
the coconut. The manyanguiti gathers the fermented sap everymorning for delivery to his suki.
In the past, every morning, rain or shine, you could see a
caravan of bicycles coming from the barrios of Sulangan, Oboob,
Tingtingon, Marikaban and Sillon bringing along their days tuba
harvest to the market. The intrepid young men, and sometimes
young ladies, steered their bicycles laden with the kundingan,
hollowed bamboo poles, oftuba. Some even carried as many as
eight tuba-laden poles to the designated areas behind the old
presidencia or near the post office. But still the biggest tuba
businessman was Nemesio Acain, who owned vast coco lands in
Oboob, Marikaban and Tingtingon. He had a small truck rigged
for the purpose of bringing his daily dawatto the market. Before
noon all their tuba were bought mostly by the tindera sang
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tubaan. These tubaans were small stalls in the market selling
tuba, sopas, fruits of the season, and grilled agumaa.These stalls
were patronized mostly by men, of all ages, especially when the
kubkub and the basnig had good catch. It was said that many
love affairs started, blossomed, and ended in these stalls. Thesea took care of the basic needs of the Bantayanons. It seemed
every man was a fisherman in Bantayan. If not actually out in the
sea, he was into fish processing and/or marketing. It was just as
well since the other agricultural endeavors in the Islands could
not sustain body and spirit. Its corn production was so meager
that its produce could not even support its farmers. Vegetable
and fruit growing were not substantial. They were mostly of the
backyard type. The poultry industry was still in its nascent stage
in the sixties. There were only two commercial-size poultryestablishments in the islands. These were those of Per Fuas and
that of the Montemayors. Bantayan was blessed to have a very
fertile sea that could provide its needs when other source of living
was not yet developed.
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Trips to Cebu City
As a little boy, I looked forward always for the coming of
summer since it signaled my annual trip to Cebu City. My mother,
who was a classroom teacher and graduated with the Elementary
Teacher Certificate (ETC), had to take courses to finish her
bachelors degree in teaching in Cebu City since there was no
tertiary school in the Islands in the fifties. Travel to Cebu City,
then, was an ordeal for a small boy. We had to wake up at four in
the morning to take the only bus plying the route from Bantayan
to Santa Fe. Although the waves were not really big, they
seemed huge to a little boy since we rode in a small wooden
lance, either the Lunaco or Sta. Filomena, owned by Angel
Cabatingans. Even on calm seas these boats rode rough thatmany young riders would have mal de mer. Arrival in Hagnaya
was chaos in motion, where everyone jostled for a seat in the two
buses. After harrowing motion sickness the tik-taks of the
caruajes the sights, smells and tastes of the cities drove any
discomforts away.
Some Lingering Memories
I have been home in Bantayan for the past three semanasantas. The Island has changed. The usual sights are no longer
there. Some old friends and acquaintances are no longer around.
Yet their faces are still vivid in my mind. I could still vividly
picture the personages of my early years in the 50s and 60s.
Don Pedro Lozada with his cane and colonial hard-hat strolling
around the town even in his septuagenarian age. Man Pantoy,
the old blind beggar, tick-tacking with his baston begging for his
sustenance. Man Idrong Kimpang, a kargador, burdened with the
reels of films to be shown in D.C. Abello Theater. Man Digoy, an
entrepreneur and healer, massaging my sprain or fracture. The
bent figure of Man Binoy Carabao working on his latest sculpture
of santos. Man Kado Rivera lugging around his daguerreotype
camera. The katekistas, my teachers, the dramaturgos, the
musikeros and many others plying their trade, They colored my
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young days. They are no longer there to greet me anytime I am
back in the Islands. But the old friends and classmates who are
still active always make my visit memorable ones.
These are the memories of my heart of the beautiful
Bantayan in my mind.
CELEDONIO L. LAYON, JR.
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