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Words NeLSoN CArvALheiroOUT ON THE TILES With a history dating back to the Moors and Romans, but a youthful lust

for life, Portugal’s capital city of Lisbon turns on the charm with its narrow cobbled streets, azulejo tiles, superb seafood – and that fabulous fado.

Destinations I n t e r n a t I o n a l

D e s t i n a t i o n s i n t e r n a t i o n a l ✜ Lisbon Sights and fado sounds in the Portuguese capital ✜ Penang Historic 19th-century shophouses restored ✜ London Great British daytrips go beyond the ken of Big Ben

Alfama view from the Miradouro (terrace) de Santa Luzia

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iT’S eASy To See why the Portuguese capital of Lisbon is regarded as one of the best cities in Europe to visit: you can step directly onto a beach, the seafood tastes ocean-

fresh and the sun shines for 300 days of the year. It juggles the relaxed feel of Southern Europe with a weightier history and heritage, but it also has a youthful energy that seems to stem from the light, which has frequently been described as a cinematographer’s dream.

In common with other bayside cities, Lisbon’s heart is close to the water; many of its shops, museums, restaurants and bars are within walking distance of the large harbour formed by the Tagus River. From there the city rises to a hill crowned by the Castelo de São Jorge, an 11th-century stone fortress built by the Moors on the site of Roman and Visigoth ruins. The castle later became the official residence of the King of Portugal. Such long history means that the Portuguese refer casually to the “recent” earthquake of 1755, which destroyed large parts of Lisbon. The city, which was mostly rebuilt in the 18th century, looks old to Australian eyes, but locals see it as relatively modern. Either way, the famous Portuguese azulejo (traditional tiles), the narrow, lopsided buildings and the cobbled streets all contribute to Lisbon’s charm.

Laid-back, easy to navigate by tram or on foot, Lisbon is small enough to feel accessible, but large enough for it to be

cosmopolitan. Though just over the border from Spain, it is its own country. Speaking Spanish won’t work here, but if your Portuguese isn’t up to scratch, you can get by with Eng-lish or French. The one thing you do need is a comfortable pair of shoes, because this is a city best seen on foot – occasionally stopping at a cafe for some char-grilled sardines and, if you’re lucky, to listen to fado, the country’s melancholy folk music. Traditionally the music of the urban poor, fado traces its roots to Brazilian immigrants in the early 1800s.

Lisbon is divided into several small inner-city districts, each with its own specialty. Wander through the atmospheric streets of Castelo, home to the fortress that dominates the skyline. In Baixa, in the centre of the city, take in the museums including the extraordinary Design and Fashion Museum (MUDE), shops and cafes. The area’s main thoroughfare, Rua Augusta, heads down to the river and the spectacular arch that forms the entrance to the city square, Terreiro do Paço.

Alfama is essential Lisbon, a place full of fado houses and tascas (the equivalent of Italy’s trattoria). These are the places to drop in to for a bifana (pork sandwich) and some red wine; simple, hearty fare that will keep you going while you explore the boutiques and antique stores. This area is also home to two of the city’s landmarks: Se Cathedral and Santa Engracia church, also known as the National Pantheon.

Tram in Alfama

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Bairro Alto is the place for nightlife. The streets in this quarter buzz from early afternoon to early morning. You can bar hop from tiny bohemian holes in the wall to more selective places, or you can just stroll and people watch; as most of the establishments are tiny, life is very much out in the streets. Its neighbour, fashionable Chiado with its elegant shop fronts, is home to some of the country’s best fashion and interior designers, as well as traditional bespoke houses such as Luvaria Ulisses, where affluent Lisbonites have had their gloves made since 1925.

Belém is where most visitors head, as it offers gardens, museums, churches and monuments. These include two UNESCO World Heritage sites – the 16th-century Monastery of the Hieronymites (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) and the Tower of Belém. It’s a lovely place to walk around and if sunshine appeals more than spending time in museums, there’s a beautiful riverside promenade broad enough to share with cyclists, joggers and strollers. Don’t forget to drop into Pastéis de Belém to experience possibly the best Portuguese custard tarts in the country.

Palácio de Fronteira

eAT & DriNKCantinho do Avillez7 rua dos Duques de bragança, Chiado. (21) 199 2369. www.cantinhodoavillez.ptJosé avillez is one of Lisbon’s star young chefs and his restaurant turns out sensational Portuguese cuisine. the small space is simple but sophisticated. try the black pork (much better than the more famous Spanish variety) or his take on the prego (steak sandwich), or salt cod and black olives.

A baiuca20 rua de São Miguel, Alfama.(21) 886 7284.family run, this tiny restaurant has been open for decades and the decor has not changed. the food is basic with dishes such as monkfish stew and char-grilled fish, but the real draw is the fado, sung by women accompanied by male guitarists. When the singing starts, everything else stops – the kitchen, table service and even the neighbours, who often drop in for the performance. this is authentic Lisbon.

Tasca Do Chico39 rua Diário de Notícias, bairro Alto. (21) 343 1040.Bairro alto and alfama are two places to find raw or bohemian fado, the underground version of what has become a mainstream art form. Walls are lined with portraits of singers and celebrities and the food tends towards Portuguese tapas.

restaurante 100 Maneiras35 rua do Teixeira, bairro Alto. (21) 099 0475. www.restaurante100maneiras.comchef Ljubomir Stanisic’s restaurant is highly regarded and his tasting menu accompanied by Portuguese wines is a great way to sample things you might not try otherwise. from the tiny kitchen comes an excellent version of the prego, done with salmon instead of steak, and dried salt cod – presented hanging on a line. a favourite dish is the seared lamb tenderloin with nuts and a red wine reduction.

Sea Me21 rua do Loreto, Chiado.(21) 346 1564. www.peixariamoderna.comSea Me is a fish pestico (the Portuguese version of Spanish tapas) house, a lively place where you need to book or arrive early because it fills up fast. the chefs work in an open kitchen and everything on the menu is excellent. this is seafood at its freshest and there is a distinct Japanese influence at work. the main stars are the petiscos: tempura fried squid, grilled prawn sausage rolls, cod with chillies, and sautéed fish eggs with olive oil and parsley.

See &Do Palácio de Fronteira1 Largo de São Domingos de benfica, benfica. (21) 778 2023. www.fronteira-alorna.ptfor glorious palaces, it’s fairly hard to beat the 1670 home of the Pa

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Portuguese custard tarts in belém.

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Marquis of fronteira. aside from the highly sculptural garden, there are rooms full of decorative tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries depicting battle and hunting scenes in brilliant hues. opening hours are limited.

Feira da LadraCampo de Santa Clara, Alfama.Tuesdays & Saturdays.almost anything can be found in Lisbon’s open-air flea market: vintage, collectables and new

goods, stuffed animals, never-sent postcards (with date and stamp), used wigs and toupees, and saddles for donkeys. an 18th-century azulejo tile sells for less than €10 ($13).

Sunset sailing on the TagusSailing-Point, belém dockyard (by Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument). (96) 186 6464. www.sailing-point.ptone of the best vantage points from which to see Lisbon is from the river. Skipper filipe avillez Paixão has more than 20 years sailing experience and is also an expert on Portugal. a sunset cruise aboard the Sailing-Point,

champagne in hand, provides a memorable view as the many white buildings turn orange and red in the dying light.

Architecture walking TourLisbon walker. 84 rua dos remédios, Alfama. (21) 886 1840. lisbonwalker.comLisbon Walker guides know all about the city – the architecture, the history of the tiles and the events that make Lisbon the place it is today.

A vida Portuguesa11 rua Anchieta, Chiado.(21) 346 5073. www.avidaportuguesa.com for a real memento of Portugal. it looks like an old-fashioned pharmacy and stocks such everyday goods as traditional soaps, kitchenware, jams and sweets – and plastic models of the saints. Museo do Fado1 Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, Alfama. (21) 882 3470. www.museudofado.ptthis museum is home to a permanent collection of fado-related paraphernalia and a good place to start learning about its history and key singers. Tram 28Lisbon’s cute-as-a-button trams operate daily. tram 28 goes right through the city. Hop on and hop off whenever you spot something of interest. another one will be along in 10 minutes. Portugal PavilionDoca dos olivais, Parque das Nações. Portugal’s most highly regarded contemporary architect, alvaro Siza, gave engineers a headache with his Portuguese Pavilion design for the 1998 Lisbon

Feira da Ladra finds (top); fado memorabilia at the Museo do Fado (above); city ride (above right) tR

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For airfares call Qantas on 13 13 13 or visit qantas.com For Portugal holiday packages call Qantas holidays on 13 14 15.

World Expo. Based on the idea of a sheet of paper resting on two bricks, the building features a long, thin canopy of wafer-thin pre-stressed concrete set between two buildings. Highly controversial, but acclaimed by many Portuguese as a symbol of the country’s modernisation, it is a regular stage for events and temporary exhibitions. take your wide-angle lens – the concrete sail stretches nearly 70m between the supporting buildings.

Gulbenkian Museum45a Avenida de berna, Praça de espanha. (21) 782 3000. www.museu.gulbenkian.ptcalouste Gulbenkian, an armenian oil tycoon who settled in Portugal, amassed one of the world’s most astonishing art collections, which he left to the city of Lisbon. the many treasures range from Egyptian artefacts and rare pieces from Greece and the Middle East, to 15th-19th century paintings.

Cascais and SintraSince many of Europe’s royal families established their holiday homes in Lisbon’s neighbouring cities of Sintra and cascais, this region became synonymous with wealth. cascais has been dubbed the Portuguese Riviera and World Heritage-listed Sintra is home to many impressive palaces. Both can be visited in a day. Hire a car and take the scenic route to cascais and the Sintra-cascais natural Park where evergreen forests surround many of the palaces and villas. the old town of Sintra is a good place to sample the local sweet, a mini cheese tart called queijada, at casa da Piriquita.

STAy Palácio belmonte14 Páteo Dom Fradique, Lisbon.(21) 881 6600. www.palaciobelmonte.comBuilt in 1449, the original palace near the castelo had fallen into disrepair when french architect frederic coustols restored it as a boutique hotel. the feel is that of a very private home, with a choice of 10 beautifully decorated suites. a pool, an organic garden and a serene atmosphere make Palácio Belmonte a hard place to leave. from €300 ($385).

bairro Alto hotel2 Praça Luís de Camões, bairro Alto. (21) 340 8288. www.bairroaltohotel.comchic and central, this 55-room hotel in an 18th-century building is a drawcard for creatives and celebrities. the terrace bar has a magnificent view over the city, which is perfect for a sundown cocktail before heading out for dinner. from €194 ($249).

Altis belém hotel & SpaDoca do bom Sucesso, belém.(21) 040 0200. altishotels.comthe altis offers a wholly modern experience. its suites face the water with views of the River tagus and the Belém tower. Minimalist in style, but utterly comfortable, this small hotel (there are 50 rooms including five suites with illustrated wall panels exploring the theme of discovery) has some big features including the spa, Bar 38°41’ cocktail lounge and the feitoria restaurant, where chef José cordeiro earned his first Michelin star this year. from €200 ($257). c

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From top: Altis belém hotel &

Spa; bairro Alto hotel; mojito at

bairro Alto hotel