are you new to saltwater aquariums

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Saltwater aquariums Successful setup Natural care 67 guide

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Page 1: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Saltwater aquariums

Successful setupNatural care

67 guide

Page 2: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

The sea: An incredible living world ......... 3

Which marine animals are suitable and which are not? .................................... 4

Preparing your natural biotope .............. 7

Aquarium setup:The substrate .............................................. 8

Biofilter components ................................ 9

Biofiltration ................................................. 10

Technical equipment ................................. 11

Saltwater ...................................................... 12

The landscape ............................................. 13

The new environment needs time to grow ................................... 14

Introducing and acclimatizing the marine animals .................................... 15

Every animal has its own nutritional requirements .......................... 16

Healthy treats & specialties ...................... 17

Regular maintenance: Checking the water ................................... 18

The interaction of pH, CO2 and carbonate hardness ................................... 22

From ammonium to nitrate: The nitrogen cycle ..................................... 24

The calcium level ........................................ 26

Strontium and trace elements ................ 27

What to do if a marine animal gets sick? ........................................ 28

What you always wanted to know about saltwater .......................... 31

2

Contents

2

Page 3: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

3

Almost two thirds of the earth’s surface is covered with water– the vast majority of it open ocean. Yet with all this area, thehighest concentrations of fish species exist close to the coralreefs and atolls. Many of the species living in shallow regionscan make a comfortable home in saltwater aquariums, as theyprefer moderate or warm tropical water and little space.

A reef aquarium itself is a small ecosystem influenced bymany factors. Over the years, aquarists have had more andmore success in keeping soft corals for long healthy lives andfinding success at breeding marine fish, which had provendifficult for many years.

Before setting up your own saltwater aquarium, take a fewminutes to look through this guide. In it you’ll discover thefirst, but most important, steps to setting up a stunning,healthy saltwater aquarium. This guide is not meant toreplace the necessary technical literature that explains andguides you through the exact care for specific organisms –but instead it will help you identify the basics, so that you cando further research on your own. Enjoy the experience!

3

The sea: An incredible living world

Page 4: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Which marine animals are suitable and which are not?

Easy-to-keep fish for first-time marine aquarists

4

First, let’s look at the inhabitants of a saltwa-ter aquarium. If corals, shrimps, and other in-vertebrates are to be kept in the same aquar-ium, your choice of compatible fish isreduced. Many fish are predators, and willeat smaller fish, shrimps, or coral tentacles.Even peaceful fish can cause problems:

Seahorses, for example, must be fed fre-quently, which can lead to water pollution,and they are notoriously slow eaters – sotheir food is often eaten by other fish. An-thias species are very beautiful but also verydemanding fish.

Damselfish (Chromis, Dascyllus, Chrysiptera) Gobies (Cryptocentrus, Valencienna)

Cardinal fish (Sphaeramia, former Apogon) Clownfish (Amphiprion)

Wrasses (Macropharyngodon) Surgeonfish/Tangs (Acanthurus, Zebrasoma)

These fish can be kept in the same aquariumas invertebrates:

Page 5: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Corals

Which marine animals are suitable and which are not?

5

Some corals live in a symbiotic relationshipwith unicellular algae called zooxanthellae.These organisms live in the coral’s tissue,providing them with all nutrients theyrequire – without being fed by humans!

Other coral species do not feed via zooxan-thellae, and must be fed, which leads toheavily polluted water conditions. sera rec-ommends avoiding these species – such asPennatulacea sp. (sea feather), Lemnalia

Africana (soft corals), and Tubastrea sp. – atleast during the early stages of your marineaquarium experience.

With well-maintained water, these inverte-brates make hardy aquarium inhabitants:

Leather corals (Sarcophyton, Lobophyton,Sinularia)

Mushroom anemones (Discosoma)

Anemones (e.g., symbiotic anemones forclownfish)

Colonial anemones (Protopalythoa, Zoan-thus)

With some experience also stony corals(Acropora, Porites, etc.)

Page 6: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Which marine animals are suitable and which are not?

6

ShrimpsWhile many shrimp species are easy to keep,one of the most colorful and fascinatingshrimps is the Hippolysmata grabhami,known as the “White banded cleanershrimp”. This shrimp not only cleans-up foodleftovers but cleans the ectoparasites fromyour fish as well!

Sea urchinsAlthough most sea urchins live on a varietyof sea grasses many feed on decaying organ-ic matter or algae – making them wonderfulhousekeepers for your marine aquarium.

Sea cucumbersKnown for their cucumber-shaped body,these animals eat plankton and decayingmatter that is suspended in the water orburied in the sand. Consult your retailerbefore buying a sea cucumber, though,some species can release sticky or toxic sub-stances into the water.

Page 7: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Preparing your natural biotope

7

Aquarium sizeKeep this rule in mind when choosing anaquarium: The larger the aquarium, the eas-ier it is to maintain.

Larger volumes of water are less easily dis-rupted by a small fluctuation to waterparameters than smaller volumes becausethe change has more area in which to dissi-pate – the parameters remain fairly constant.The same fluctuation to a smaller volume ofwater could provide a severe jolt to thewhole biological condition.

Aside from water parameter considerationswhen buying an aquarium, you also need toconsider the fish. Most marine fish requiresubstantial territories to defend. For thesereasons, sera recommends a 200-liter (53 gal.)tank, or a 100-liter (26 gal.) at the minimum.

If a bio filter system, a trickle filter for exam-ple, is to be installed under the aquarium,ensure that a sufficiently large overflow holeis drilled as a water outlet.

Optimal lightingFluorescent tubes, metal halide lamp (HQI) ortheir successors HCI or CDM, or a combina-tion of both, are used for lighting saltwateraquariums.

If fluorescent tubes are used, the waterdepth must not exceed 50 cm (20 in.). Youcan use the sera Combi-Reflectors toincrease light intensity by up to 100%.

For a double-hood aquarium usingfluorescent tubes only, sera rec-ommends combining light spec-trums for optimal conditions.Consider the sera deep sea special as a foreground tube; itprovides actinic blue marine lightand, with a specific light spec-trum of 380 – 450 nm, it ensurestropical reef light conditions.Growth and coloration of inver-tebrates are strongly enhancedby the blue light spectrum. Werecommend the sera blue skyRoyal for supplying the saltwa-ter tank with tropical daylight.

Always combine a metal halide lamp with ablue light tube – the sera deep sea specialfor example – in aquariums stocked withinvertebrates that require plenty of light, orif the aquarium is deeper than 50 cm (20 in.).This ensures the best possible display ofyour corals’ magnificent color.

Support and locationPlace the aquarium on a Styrofoam or foampad (sera thermo-safe) to prevent the glassfrom cracking. Install the aquarium awayfrom direct sunlight to reduce the risk ofalgae growth.

Page 8: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Aquarium setup: The substrate

8

The most important task of the substrate is to provide addi-tional settling space for bacteria with a high oxygen demand(aerobic) in the upper layers, and for bacteria that live with-out oxygen (anaerobic) in the lower layers.

Coarse coral sand is the ideal choice for a saltwater aquarium.It is visually attractive, and because of its high lime content ithelps stabilize the pH value.

Some fish species, such as wrasses and gobies, need a sandyarea to dig themselves into for the night. A separate area withcoral or quartz sand should be provided for these animals.Consult your retailer for details on the proper depth for yourspecific fish species.

The remaining surface should be covered with a coarse coralsand layer of about 3 cm (1 in.). sera recommends using a rockborder between the different substrates to prevent themfrom mixing.

Page 9: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Aquarium setup: Biofilter components

9

1. Prefiltration(Mechanical water purification)

sera filter wool and sera biofibres catch the large, solid dirtparticles – such as uneaten food or clumped dead algae –from entering your primary filter. This prefilter media mustbe cleaned regularly to maintain the maximum water flowrate, and to prevent additional pollution from the decayingparticles. The prefilter’s primary focus is to give the biofilterthe best chance at breeding bacterial colonies, undisturbed.

2. Main filtration (Biological water purification)

Your biological filter is home to the useful bacteria that bio-logically break down the pollutants in your aquarium. serabiopur and sera siporax provide the ideal settling conditionsfor this bacterial colony. One liter (10 oz.) of sera siporax hasthe same biological breakdown capacity as 34 liters (approx. a9 gal. pail) of ceramic material. To collect any stray large dirtparticles, separate the sera biopur and sera siporax with anadditional layer of sera biofibres. We also recommend addinga regular dose of sera ammovec, nitrifying bacteria for salt-water aquariums, to your biofilter. Clean this filter as seldom as possible to avoid destroying thebacterial colonies, which already struggle to multiply in salt-water conditions.

The saltwater is purified in several steps within the sera inter-nal biofilters B 200 and B 400.

sera filter wool

sera super carbonsera biopur

e.g. sera siporax®

sera biofibres

sera biofibres

Page 10: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Aquarium setup: Biofiltration

10

Biological breakdown ofpollutants within the filtering cycle

Millions of useful sera ammovecnitrifying bacteria settle within

sera siporax to clean the aquari-um water.

The large open-pored tunnel structureof sera siporax provides a natural living

space for these microorganisms, whichconvert clumps of dead algae, uneaten food,

and fish waste into ammonium. Each serasiporax ring is composedof a highly porous materialthat ensures that a thicklayer of outer bacteriadevelops and is suppliedwith nutrients and waterfor growth. As the innerpores fill-in, a low-oxygenthriving bacteria inhabitsthe ring centers. Thesebreak-down nitrate and release beneficial

nitrogen into the water.

sera ammovec nitrifying filter bacteriaconvert clumps of dead algae, uneatenfood, and fish waste into ammonium.

Ammonia and ammonium are then con-verted to nitrite by a second type of filterbacteria.

Yet a third form of bacteria converts thenitrite into nitrate. As nitrate promotes thegrowth of algae and is especially harmfulfor invertebrates, a slow flux filter withsera siporax provides a dedicated solutionby biologically breaking-down the nitrate.

Skimmers reduce pollution in saltwatercaused by protein and other organic sub-stances. They must be cleaned regularly toprevent skimmed-off waste from re-enter-ing the aquarium.

Page 11: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Aquarium setup: Technical equipment

11

FilterThe sera internal biofilter B was developedaccording to the requirements for optimal

filtration. It is easilyaccessible from thetop, so the prefiltermedia can be changedwithout disturbing thebiologically active pri-mary filter media. Withits practical threechamber design (seepg. 9), this filter letsyou exchange a varietyof filter media, such as

active carbon, as necessary, without disman-tling the entire filter.The integrated surface skimmer of the serainternal biofilter B reliably removes organicwaste and unwanted surface protein film. You can achieve increased filtering perform-ance from internal filters that use a spongecartridge by using sera siporax in the pri-mary filter chamber, and sera biofibres orsera biopur in the prefilter.

The sera internal filters L 60, L 150, and L 300are ideal for quarantine, breeding, and livefood aquariums up to 300 liters. In additionto water filtration, they also oxygenate thewater, and the fine-pored external sponge

prevents small animals,such as sea cucumbers,from being trapped inthe filter.

Thermostat control heatersThe sera aquarium heaters should be placedin the clear water chamber of the sera inter-nal biofilter B to prevent wandering inverte-brates, such as anemones or snails, frombeing caught and injured.

PumpsPowerheads are the heart of a saltwateraquarium. They provide the animals withnatural water movement and changing cur-rents such as high and low tide, which caneasily be imitated by timers. Correct placement is critical to ensure thereare no “dead spots” in which food and decay-ing matter can accumulate.To achieve the constant motion, use severalsera submersible pumps to keep the watermoving in front and behind the live rock.With sera submersible pumps, the waterintake pipe can be protected by a sponge.Thus, small animals are prevented frombeing trapped inside the pump.

50 watts18.5 cm/7.3 in.

25 watts18.5 cm/7.3 in.

150 watts30 cm/11.8 in.

100 watts22 cm/8.7 in.

75 watts22 cm/8.7 in.

300 watts35 cm/13.8 in.

250 watts35 cm/13.8 in.

200 watts30 cm/11.8 in.

Page 12: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Aquarium setup: Saltwater

12

As the use of natural saltwater is not practi-cal, aquarium saltwater must be preparedfrom purified (reverse osmosis) water andsea salt. Saltwater organisms in aquariumsrequire stable, constant salt conditions. serasea salt dissolves rapidly and homogenouslythroughout your aquarium to form crystalclear saltwater. The natural pH and KH bal-ance forms a buffer that maintains a preciseand correct pH range. sera sea salt is freefrom nitrate, silicate, and phosphate, and itsprepared saltwater has the biologically cor-rect calcium and magnesium levels.

Sea salt: The crucial startingpoint

Preparing the aquariumwaterFill the empty aquarium with purified

(reverse osmosis) water and addthe prescribed amount of seasalt. sera sea salt dissolves withno residue. When the last saltgrains disappear, condition thewater with sera aqumarin. Usepowerheads, placed on theaquarium floor, to agitate thewater for 24 hours. Use a ther-mostatically controlled heaterto warm the water to thedesired temperature.

There are two methods:

1 When the free floating sera hydrometeris used for testing, it displays the densi-

ty of the water on an integrated scale. Forexample, in aquariums with inver-tebrates, the density should bebetween 1.022 and 1.024 g/cm3 at awater temperature of 25°C (77°F). Ifthe temperature of the aquariumwater differs from this value, thenthe estimated density would needto be converted in accordancewith an appropriate table, such asthe one below.

2 The salt concentration of brackish wateror saltwater as well as the total pollution

degree of freshwater are determined via theconductivity. The sera conductivity metercan be easily switched from the µS/cm(freshwater) to the mS/cm (saltwater) rangeand thus has a broadapplication range. It isideal for owners withmany aquariums, forbreeders, and for the spe-cialty trade. Further appli-cations are, for example,quality control of R/O(reverse osmosis) water,and monitoring the waterfor salt that might bereleased by the decorations or active carbon.

Salt concentration too high: Dilute with puri-fied water.

Salt concentration too low: Raise by carefullyadding sea salt.

Adjusting for exact salinity

16°C 1.025 g/cm3 1.026 g/cm3 1.0265 g/cm3

20°C 1.0235 g/cm3 1.025 g/cm3 1.0255 g/cm3

25°C 1.022 g/cm3 1.023 g/cm3 1.024 g/cm3

28°C 1.0215 g/cm3 1.0225 g/cm3 1.023 g/cm3

30°C 1.020 g/cm3 1.0215 g/cm3 1.0225 g/cm3

Densityat

Salinity33 ‰

Salinity34.5 ‰

Salinity36 ‰

Page 13: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Aquarium setup: The landscape

13

There are no limits to your underwater landscape designwhen you use your imagination. Ensuring the construction isstable, though, is important. Aquarists often use all-plasticcable fasteners and silicon to secure the decorations.

Place an acrylic panel at the bottom of the aquarium to pro-tect the glass against damage from the constructions.

The aquarium should preferably be decorated with “liverock.” Why it is called “live” will be obvious after several days.

Along with the live rock, dolomite, sand stone, granite, lavarock, and tufa are other choices.

Fish, crabs, and other animals in the saltwater aquariumneed stones for hiding. Shelters, caves, and ledges are simpleto build with reef rocks.

Page 14: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

The new environment needs time to grow

14

Development of useful bacteriaAfter you have decorated your aquaticworld, it needs some time to colonize sever-al strains of bacteria, which will break down

pollutants and inhibit the rise ofdangerous ammonia and nitritelevels (see page 10). Bacteriamultiply slowly in saltwater envi-ronments, so we recommendgiving your aquarium a headstart by adding sera ammovecnitrifying bacteria.

During this start-up phase, ammonium andnitrite levels should be monitored frequent-ly with the sera ammonium/ammonia-Testand sera nitrite-Test. When values are in asafe zone, invertebrates and fish can beintroduced over the course of time. Checkwith your specialty retailer for advice.

Watch your aquarium cometo life!Many small animals and almost certainly avariety of beautiful algae species will haveentered the aquarium with the “live rock,”and will become visible as days go by.

If any of these animals, such as sponges, donot survive, they must be removed immedi-ately to prevent pollution as a result ofdecay. In any case, another dose of seraammovec should be added.

LightingFor the first week, refrain from turning onthe aquarium lighting to prevent detrimen-tal algae growth.

Begin lighting the second week, increasingthe time by an hour or two a day. The liverock begins developing, and every day thereare new organisms to discover. You will seeanemones, ornamental algae, crustaceans,and other animals populate your miniaturereef.

Page 15: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

Introducing and acclimatizing the marine animals

15

Some marine animals must never leave thewater. During transport, even a few secondsof exposure to air can be lethal. Amongthese air-sensitive animals are sea urchins,sea cucumbers, starfish, and pufferfish.

When purchasing these animals, ensure theyare placed in the transport bag under water,and ask your retailer for specific instructionson introducing them into your aquarium.

Generally, the transport bags with the newlypurchased fish and invertebrates should beopened and securely placed side-by-side in abucket, and for the following half-hour, dripaquarium water into the transport bags. Anair hose fitted with a suction cup and clampis ideal for this job. By doing this, the animalscan adapt to the new water temperature aswell as the new water parameters. Place thebucket in a darkened area to reduce stressand help calm the animals.

When the new inhabitants are acclimatizedto the aquarium water, carefully transferthem to the aquarium. A large glass contain-er is ideal for moving them. Remember thatthey must never come in contact with air!

sera aqumarin supports the fish’s healingprocesses of the mucous membrane if it hasbeen damaged during transport.

Always purchase bred animalswhen possible – and only thosethat are suitable for your aquar-ium!

Page 16: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

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Every animal has its own nutritional requirements

Staple dietsCompared to freshwater fish, marine fishrequire much more iodine and other miner-als. More than fifty different ingredients insera fish foods ensure a well balanced dietfor the aquarium inhabitants. This helps sup-port the immune system and prevents defi-ciencies. All sera foods are especially low inphosphate.

sera marinvit plus for ornamen-tal algae, stony corals and otherinvertebrates. This nutrientcomplex contains strontium andtrace elements in biologicallycorrect amounts.

sera coraliquid, a plankton-based, energy-rich liquid food,was specially developed for fil-trating invertebrates.

sera GVG-mix marin is a flakefood with added tidbits formarine fish. This versatilebasic food contains iodineand other minerals frommarine algae, krill, plankton,and other valuable ingredients

such as bloodworms, daphnia, and artemiashrimps.

sera granumarin is an idealfood for fish that search fortheir food between coralbranches, in the middle ofthe water, or near the bot-tom. It sinks slowly, softensquickly but neverthelesskeeps its solid consistency.

Therefore, water pollution is largely avoided.

Page 17: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

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Healthy treats & specialties

17

sera flora provides herbi-vores (plant eaters) withessential vegetable pro-teins, minerals and rough-age.

sera O-nip tablets consist of50% freeze-dried food ani-mals and 50% high qualityflake food, making it an idealdiet for all animals. sera O-niptablets can be attached to

the aquarium glass, and will bring even shy animals into view.

sera Spirulina Tabs can also beattached to the aquarium glass.This all-vegetable tablet con-tains an optimal 20% of spirulinaalgae for proper nutrition. sera

Spirulina Tabs are indispensable for algae-eating animals such as surgeonfish/ tangs orblennies.

sera Plankton Tabs contain anespecially high amount offreeze-dried plankton. Fish arefed by simply dropping thetablets into the aquarium.

Invertebrates are fed individually, for exam-ple, with a pair of tweezers or a plastic tube.

sera FD Shrimp, made oftender brine shrimp is atasty treat for all saltwaterfish.

sera microgran for young fishand small mouthed species is anutritious blend of ingredientsplus added multi-vitamin com-

plex, making sera microgran a perfect staplediet for these fish.

sera micron is best suited forraising fish fry or shrimp lar-vae. Invertebrates and fish thatneed powdered food can alsobe fed sera micron.

Page 18: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

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Regular maintenance: Checking the water

Parameter When to check?

pHWeekly

KH CarbonatehardnessWeekly

CaCalciumWeekly

ConductivityWeekly

DensityWeekly

NH4/NH3Ammonium/AmmoniaWeekly

NO2NitriteWeekly

Ideal parameter

8.0 – 8.5

8 – 12°dKH

400 – 450 mg/l (ppm)

50 – 54 mS/cm

1.022 – 1.024 g/cm3 at 25°C (77°F)

Ideal: 0.0 mg/l (ppm)

Dangerous from 0.02 mg/l (ppm)

Depending on the pH value

Ideal: 0.0 mg/l (ppm)

0.3 – 0.9 mg/l (ppm) NO2 (equals0.1 – 0.3 mg/l [ppm] NO2-N): waterpollution

From 0.9 mg/l (ppm) NO2 (equals0.3 mg/l [ppm] NO2-N): danger to fish

3.3 mg/l (ppm) NO2 (equals 1 mg/l[ppm] NO2-N): acute danger to fish

Value too high – lower ⇓Value too low – raise ⇑

⇓ • Partial water change with more aci-dic water

• Add CO2

⇑ • sera pH-plus

⇓ • Partial water change

⇑ • sera kH-plus

⇓ • Partial water change

⇑ • Add sera calcium plus

⇓ • Partial water change with water of alittle less conductivity

⇑ • Add sera sea salt in small portionsuntil the correct value is achieved

⇓ • Partial water change

⇑ • Add sera sea salt in small portionsuntil the correct value is achieved

⇓ • Partial water change (check pH value)• Avoid still water zones by providing

water currents (use a water pump)• Add sera ammovec• Check/clean the filter• Reduce number of fish• Feed sparingly

⇓ • Add sera ammovec• Check the filter• Feed sparingly• Check whether a fish or another ani-

mal is missing• Partial water change• Remove cause

⇓ • Partial water change• Repeat partial water change after

12 – 24 hours

Page 19: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

19

Regular maintenance: Checking the water

Parameter When to check?

NO3NitrateWeekly

MgMagnesiumWeekly

PO4PhosphateWeekly

CuCopperFresh water

Fish feeling unwell

O2OxygenEvery 2 weeks

ClChlorineWater change

New setup

Ideal parameter

Ideal: maximum 20 mg/l (ppm)From 20 mg/l (ppm)

Above 100 mg/l (ppm)

About 1300 mg/l (ppm)

Max. 0.1 mg/l (ppm)Ideal: below 0.05 mg/l (ppm)

Ideal: 0.0 mg/l (ppm) (any detectableamount severely harms inver-tebrates or can be fatal to them)

Above 1.0 mg/l (ppm): fatal for allliving beings in saltwater aquariums

Above 6 mg/l (ppm): sufficient oxy-gen

Below 0.02 mg/l (ppm)

Value too high – lower ⇓Value too low – raise ⇑

⇓ • Install a slow flux filter and use serasiporax

• Use 1 liter (10 oz.) sera siporax pereach 100 liters (26 gal.) of water inthe biofilter, and activate with seraammovec

• Carry out frequent partial waterchanges with water that is low innitrate

• Reduce number of fish if applicable

• Feed sparingly

• Use a protein skimmer

• Partial water change

⇓ • Partial water change

⇑ • Add sera magnesium plus

⇓ • Partial water change

• Add macro ornamental algae

• Feed sparingly

• Reduce number of fish

⇓ • Add sera aqumarin

• Generous partial water changes withcopper-free water, prepare freshwater with a double dose sera aqu-marin

⇑ • Rapid increase with sera oxypur

• Aerate water

• Find out and remove cause

⇓ • sera aqumarin neutralizes the effectsof chlorine

• Add sera chlorvec

• Add sera ammovec

• Aerate water well

Page 20: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

20

Regular maintenance

As well as monitoring the water parametersand cleaning the filter, several further main-tenance measures must be carried out on aregular basis.

Removal of unwanted algaeIf large macro ornamental algae, such asCaulerpa, grow in your aquarium, you shouldcarefully control their growth. The rapidlygrowing Caulerpa algae can actually over-grow the invertebrates. Select and removethe unwanted algae without taking toomany at one time.

Algae leaves are called “thalli.” They consistof a single cell that releases its nitrate-con-taining cell liquid into the aquarium if it isnot removed properly. The safest way to cut-back your algae is to do this:

Look for the rhizome; this is the cord fromwhich the single thalli grow. On it, you willsee the fragile spots beside the thalli atwhich the algae can be broken apart. Snip-off the unwanted segment of the Caulerpaalgae, and immediately remove it from theaquarium. Be careful not to damage thealgae as this will lead to cell liquid runninginto the aquarium uncontrollably.

Change 5 – 10% of the water monthly, prepar-ing the salt mixture in a bucket according tothe directions on page 12. This is also anopportune time to use the sera gravel wash-er to clean the aquarium gravel of debris anddetrimental micro-organisms – as we will seein the following sections.

Waste removalTo avoid polluting the water, remove anywaste, such as dead algae parts, with thesera gravel cleaner or a tweezers, instantly,before it accumulates. Do not wait for sched-uled water changes.

Water change

Page 21: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

21

Regular maintenance

R/O water for cleaning andadditionIn areas with high levels of nitrate and/orphosphate in the tap water we strongly rec-ommend purchasing an ion exchange orreverse osmosis (R/O) unit. By purifying thewater this way, approximately 95% of thedissolved pollutants are removed.R/O water is much more suitable than tapwater for water changes and for replacingevaporated water.Tap water must be conditioned by using seraaqumarin according to the instructions. Open aquariums that are lighted with hang-ing metal halide lights can lose several litersof water through evaporation, every day.This water must be replaced regularly, daily ifpossible, with R/O water to prevent anincrease in salinity.

Lighting checkFluorescent light tubes lose about 50% oftheir light-emitting power after six monthsuse, whereas metal halide (HQI) lights have amaximum “lifespan” of two years. As thehuman eye does not detect the gradualreduction of light, use the exposure light-meter of a camera as an easy method ofmonitoring this problem. Note: These testsmust be carried out from the same distanceand angle each time.

While you are ona holidayFor short-term vacations(up to 10 days), the animalsin your reef aquarium neednot be fed. Live rock pro-vides the aquarium withplenty of micro-fauna toserve as a food supply.

During longer vacations, werecommend setting-up amaintenance plan to give tothe person caring for youraquarium while you’re away.Along with feeding instruc-tions, this should includeinformation on topping-upthe tank with R/O water, andproviding trace elements(sera marinvit plus) for theinvertebrates. Advise themon the exact number offood tablets (sera O-nip,sera viformo, sera SpirulinaTabs, sera Plankton Tabs), aswell as which days to do thefeeding. Tablets are thepreferable choice to leave,as inexperienced aquaristsusually drastically overfeedwith flake and granulatedfoods, causing severe waterpollution.

Camera withexposure meter

Fix dis-tanceandangleexactly

All settings and conditions

must be the same for each test

Page 22: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

The ocean represents the most stable eco-logical system on earth. Over millions ofyears the ocean’s inhabitants have adaptedto the water’s constant physical and chemi-cal changes, but as these parameters varyonly slightly in nature, the animals are muchless able to adapt than their freshwatercounterparts. Because of this – marineaquariums must provide continuously stableconditions.

The pH value describes whether the water isacidic (pH below 7), neutral (pH = 7) or alka-line (pH above 7). The pH value in natural salt-water is slightly alkaline (pH 8 to 8.5).

In the aquarium the pH is lower in the morn-ing than in the evening. This is because algaeconsume carbon dioxide (CO2) during theday, resulting in a rise in pH. As a result of theconsumption of carbonic acid, the pH valuerises during the day.

The carbonate hardness (KH) in the waterserves as a buffer. It is able to neutralizeacids and therefore absorbs fluctuations ofthe pH value to a certain degree. To providea buffering effect that is strong enough for asaltwater aquarium, the carbonate hardnessmust not fall below 8°dKH.

Check the carbonatehardness of the waterquickly and accuratelywith the sera kH-Test.

Increasing the KH levelis easy and safe withsera kH-plus.

The pH value of theaquarium water shouldalso be checked regu-larly with the sera pH-Test.

Consider usingthe sera pH me-ter for precisemonitoring of thepH value.You can raise thepH value withsera pH-plus ifnecessary.

22

The interaction of

Page 23: Are You New To Saltwater Aquariums

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pH, carbon dioxide (CO2), and carbonate hardness (KH)

When aquariums are over-planted withmacro ornamental algae (Caulerpa, Halimedaetc.) pH values can rise over 8.5 because ofthe high CO2 demand.

The easiest and most natural method of low-ering and stabilizing the pH value is by sup-plying carbon dioxide to the water. Add carbon dioxide according to the specificaquarium requirements, simply and confi-dently, with the sera CO2 fertilization systemand seramic CO2 control system.

The seramic CO2 control system is ideal forthe automatic control and regulation of thepH value in your aquarium. Simply set thedesired pH value and let the seramic CO2control system inject the precise amount ofcarbon dioxide for stable conditions. Thishighly effective CO2 control unit system alsoshuts-off automatically when the correct pHvalue has been reached.

Saltwater aquariums demand a considerableamount of the CO2, which should not beunderestimated. Even if you do not continu-ously supply the aquarium with CO2, westrongly urge you to keep CO2 in stock. Thisway, you can react immediately if the pHvalue and the ammonia level become too

high (see sections “The nitrogencycle” and “Checking the wa-ter”).

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From ammonium to nitrate:

Let’s have a closer look at the nitrogen cycle:

Organic waste products in the aquariumresult in nitrogen pollution of the water.Among those waste products are excretionsof the fish, uneaten food, and rotting algae,as well as dead animals.Nitrogen occurs in the aquarium in differentforms. Nitrogen containing waste productsin the aquarium are excess protein, ammoni-um and ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

The waste products mentioned contain pro-teins, from which ammonium converted toammonia is formed via biological decompo-sition. The ratio between relatively harmlessammonium and toxic ammonia is deter-mined by the pH value. The higher the pHvalue, the more ammonia is formed. Sincethe pH value in saltwater is always above 7,the ammonium level must be checked fre-quently.

Check the total concen-tration of ammoniumand ammonia with thesera ammonium/am-monia-Test. The chartincluded in the test kitmakes it easy to deter-mine the level of freeammonia by comparingthe measured value andthe pH value. If the con-centration of free am-monia is above 0.2 mg/l,a partial water change must be done immediately, and sera ammovec should beadded.

The next step in the nitrogen cycle is the bio-logical conversion of ammonium into ammo-nia, and then into nitrite by Nitrosomonasbacteria. For this to happen the bacterianeed oxygen. Therefore, this is called an aer-obic (with oxygen) process. Nitrite is highlytoxic to fish and invertebrates.

Increased ammonium, nitrite, or nitrate lev-els result from mistakes or improper aquari-um maintenance. Another cause could be aninsufficient surface area for useful bacteriato colonize.

Check the nitrite levelof the aquarium waterwith the sera nitrite-Test. If the value ex-ceeds 0.3 mg/l (ppm), apartial water change isnecessary.

The useful bacteria in sera ammovecprocess dead plant parts, food left-

overs, and fish waste from ammonia vianitrite into non-toxic nitrate

Well balanced plantinglowers nitrate levels

Nitrate-free water

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The nitrogen cycle

Lower the ammonium andnitrite levels with seraammovec. sera ammovec is abiological product containingnitrifying bacteria that breaksdown ammonium and nitrite.Simply add the liquid to theaquarium water according tothe product’s directions foruse.

The biological decompositionof nitrite by Nitrobacter bacte-ria leads to nitrate. Also, at this

stage the bacteria need oxygen to thrive.Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria live inall the oxygen-rich zones of the aquarium,which include the upper gravel layers, the fil-ter, and the live rock surfaces. From this wesee that oxygen-rich water is important notonly for the fish and invertebrates, but at thebacterial level as well.

Nitrate is considerablyless toxic than ammoniaand nitrite. Neverthe-less it harms delicatecorals when in concen-trations of 20 mg/l(ppm) or higher, and itpromotes the growthof unwanted threadand slime algae.

Check the nitrate levelin the aquarium withthe sera nitrate-Test.

Nitrate breakdown can take place only inoxygen-poor zones. There the bacteria takeoxygen from the nitrate. This is called ananaerobic (without oxygen) process. Thisfinal step produces harmless nitrogen gasthat escapes into the atmosphere. The bio-logical breakdown of nitrate is achieved by aslow flux filter with sera siporax.

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The calcium level

Calcareous algae, fish, and invertebratesextract calcium from the saltwater to build-up their skeleton. Natural saltwater containsabout 400 – 450 mg/l (ppm) calcium.

Saltwater that is prepared with sera sea saltbegins with the correct calcium concentra-tion, but is nevertheless constantly loweredby regular, necessary consumption.

The calcium level insaltwater can easily andsafely be determinedby using the sera calci-um-Test. If the level fallsbelow 400 mg/l (ppm),the calcium concentra-tion can be increasedwith sera calcium plus.

Unlike kalkwasser, sera calciumplus affects neither the pHvalue nor the trace elements.

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Strontium and trace elements

The magnesium level in naturalsaltwater is about 1300 mg/l(ppm). Replenish consumedmagnesium according to a-quarium requirements witheasy-to-dose sera magnesiumplus.

Use the sera magne-sium-Test to monitorthe exact magnesiumlevel.

Saltwater that is freshly prepared with serasea salt contains all the trace elements thatare important for your marine life. Althoughthe level of these trace elements are verylow (example: manganese 0.2 µg/l [ppm],gold 0.004 µg/l [ppm]), they are essential forfish and invertebrates. Protein skimmers,along with natural consumption, eventuallyreduce the level of trace elements.

Stony corals and other invertebrates needstrontium, besides calcium, to build-up theircalcareous skeleton. Due to its comparative-ly high concentration in salt-water (8 mg/l [ppm]) strontiumis not regarded as a trace ele-ment.

Regular addition of sera marin-vit plus ensures the ideal sup-ply of strontium for corals andother invertebrates. It containsall the trace elements, in thebiologically correct amounts,that are necessary for keepingand breeding ornamentalmarine algae and inverte-brates.

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What to do if a marine animal gets sick?

InvertebratesWith a good maintenance routine, inverte-brates are rarely affected by disease.Nevertheless, certain aspects should betaken into account:

• If the water temperature exceeds 30°C(86°F), the skeleton formation of stonycorals is disturbed. Furthermore, the sym-biotic algae that live in the tissues of thecoral (Zooxanthellae) die and as a result thecoral also dies.

• Crustaceans regularly shed their skin. Thewater must contain 400 – 450 mg/l (ppm)calcium for building up a new shell. Thecarbonate hardness must be between8 – 10°dKH.

• If an invertebrate’s growth becomes stunt-ed, despite the best possible maintenanceconditions, the animal should be examinedfor external parasites. These parasitescould be miniscule and possibly come outonly at night.

Planarians are flat white or red worms ofapproximately 5 mm (0.2 in.) in size. They canharm anemones, corals and other verte-brates with their excreted slime. Theseworms can be siphoned-out of the aquariumby means of a flexible tube. Sometimes it isuseful to place a strong flashlight above the

aquarium at night. Many planarians assem-ble in the light and they are much easier toremove. Watch invertebrates thoroughlybefore buying them! Small, brownish-red,oval spots are usually planarians.

Bristle worms (Polychaetes) are actually carrion eaters, and will eventually nibble onmushroom anemones and stony corals.Furthermore, they tear their prey away fromthem and, in doing so, often injure these sessile (immobile) animals with their sharpjaws. It is possible to attract Bristle wormswith fish meat and then catch and removethem. As they are mainly active at night, thisprocedure should be carried out in the dark.Be careful: Do not touch these worms. Thebristles break off and may cause skin inflam-mations!Small bristle worms hide in the gravel duringdaytime and can be removed by siphoningoff a larger quantity of the gravel (approx.30 – 50%) and washing it with fresh water.Usually, this is sufficient to remove thesePolychaetes from time to time.

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What to do if a marine animal gets sick?

Many snails nibble on sea anemones, corals,and other invertebrates. In a reef aquariumevery snail should be carefully removed witha pair of tweezers. Some snails feed exclu-sively on sessile invertebrates.

Predatory shrimp species, for example mar-bled shrimps (different Saron species), canliterally cut up anemones. These animals,which are active at night, should besiphoned off with a flexible tube or removedwith a pair of tweezers.

Parasitic diseases caused by micro-organ-isms such as bacteria, or unicellular para-sites, can only occur after preliminary dam-age has been caused by a chemical, such asozone, hydrogen peroxide, or phosphate,and they are almost never observed in wellmaintained aquariums.Combating these parasites with treatmentsis impossible, as treatments, of course, can-not differentiate between “desirable” and“undesirable” invertebrates.

FishThe best way to combat dis-ease is by avoiding it, and thedanger of a disease outbreak isgreatly reduced by followingregular maintenance routines,and by adding sera fishtaminand sera activant vitamins toyour fish’s diet. If disease doesoccur, sera has a line of sup-port products that are safe andreliable to use.

The most frequent and dis-turbing diseases that affectmarine fish – and the recom-mended care for your fishwhile ill, are described below.

The parasitic Oodinium ocella-tum (Velvet, or Coral Fish dis-ease), in saltwater, attacks thegills before migrating to theskin – often leaving the fishunable to pass sufficient oxy-gen to breath. Copper-basedproducts, used carefully, suchas sera oodinopur have beeneffective – although coppermust never be used in aquari-ums with invertebrates. Applyonly in a quarantine tank.

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What to do if a marine animal gets sick?

The ciliate Cryptocarion irritansresembles the freshwater par-asite Ichthyophthirius (whitespot) and is therefore alsocalled “Saltwater Ich”. Use seracyprinopur according to theinstructions for symptoms ofwhite spots of up to 1 millime-ter in diameter and strongscraping movements of thefish. sera cyprinopur is harmfulfor some invertebrates (e.g.,stony corals, snails, shrimp)

and for safety purposes should be appliedonly in a quarantine tank.

Bacteria can cause manynoticeable symptoms in yourfish – among them, are skinslime and fin rot. Use sera bak-topur and sera baktopurdirect, according to directions,at the first sign of symptoms.

As many invertebrates donot tolerate treatments, werecommend caring for yourfish in a quarantine aquari-um.

Illness can considerablyweaken a fish. Once treat-ments are complete, serafishtamin or sera activantvitamins are ideal to helpsupport the animal’s im-mune system while healing.

Use of treatments in theaquarium cannot distin-guish between good andbad bacteria, and attacksthem all. After every treat-ment, use sera ammovec,according to directions, tohelp regenerate the filterbacteria colonies.

Use sera super carbon to remove the treat-ments residue fromthe water after treat-ments.

Cleaner wrasses andcleaner shrimps helpprevent the problemby “preening” theectoparasite fromyour fish. Also somenettling coral species(e.g., gorgonians) havepositive effects onfish diseases.

The best disease prevention measures aregood, constant water conditions, variednutrition, and an appropriate vitamin supply.

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What you always wanted to know about saltwater

What is “kalkwasser?”A saturated solution of calcium hydroxide inwater is called kalkwasser. This concentratedalkaline solution raises the calcium level ofthe water without raising the carbonatehardness – it can, however, elevate the pH touncontrollably high values. In the past, kalk-wasser was the most practicable method ofproviding calcium but this is now consideredrisky. sera calcium plus does not affect thepH value and is therefore safer to use, mak-ing kalkwasser an unnecessary part of yourmaintenance routine.

What is a protein skimmergood for?A skimmer helps to reduce the aquariumwater pollution. Proteins attach to the airbubbles produced by the skimmer, formingsolid foam. This foam is pushed upwardswithin the foam tube, thus removing theskimmed substances from the aquariumwater circuit.

What does a calcium reactor do?Many corals, mussels, and calcareous redalgae require dissolved calcium for theirgrowth. Using carbonic acid (dissolved CO2),lime material is dissolved to form soluble cal-cium compounds within the calcium reactor.As this process takes place below pH valuesof 6.5 – 7 only, a portion of the added car-bonic acid is required to lower the pH valuewithin the reactor. The remaining portion isthen used to dissolve lime. The pH controlrequired for this is achieved by the seramicCO2 control system.

What is “live rock?”Live rocks are reef rock pieces that areimported together with herbal and animalperiphyton organisms. It must be transport-ed moist and tempered. In pet stores theyare kept like corals in aquariums. They willbring many useful small organisms into youraquarium and therefore promote naturalconditions. Speak with your specialty retailerfor more information on adding live rock toyour aquarium.