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www.apparelresources.com | FEBRUARY 16-28, 2017 | Apparel Online India 3

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2 Apparel Online India | FEBRUARY 16-28, 2017 | www.apparelresources.com

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CONTENT Vol. XIX ISSUE 22 FEBRUARY 16-28, 2017

World WrapUS malls go for a change post holiday season The year started with Macy’s announcing the closure of 63 stores and eliminating 10,000 jobs as the departmental store chain continued to grapple with weak sales during the holiday season...p12

India CanvasAn AO investigation… Why Jaipur exporters are struggling to even reachRs. 100 crore-mark? Some yearsago, one well-known Jaipur-based exporterhaving 3 factories, approached Tesco, H&M and few other such top brands/stores to work with his factories....p44

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Fashion BusinessFrom Furs to Florals: Trends F/W 2017-18 The fabrics and prints always form the bare bones of every season’s underlying mood and silhouette. The coming Fall/ Winter season will see another waveof reimagining the nostalgic shapes of bygone eras.

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Wholesalers/ ImportersA strong segment of buyers from India When talking about buyers, more often than not, we think of the retailers and brands that source from the country. Gap, H&M, Walmart, Zara, Tommy, Esprit, M&S…

SustainabilityGreen Factories: Why is India lagging behind its competitors? One of themost commonly used terms in the apparelindustry since the last few years has been ‘green’, but when it comes to having a green factory...p14

H2F700 Indian exporters participate in Heimtextil, Domotex and Maison & Objet p30

FFT TrendsFall / Winter 2017-18: Key Menswear Trends from New York & Paris p33

Export StatisticsApparel imports by US conclude with negative trend in 2016 2017 is shaping up to be another uncertain year for clothing industry and its supply chain for the US as Trump factor is still playing crucial role in clothing imports...p46



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DIRECTIONS BY

The whirlwind brought about by the biannual menswear fashion weeks at New York and Paris, has recently settled, giving way to future trend predictions that would signal what the approaching season looks like.This season saw utility and comfort being given an edge of importance over avant-garde fashion. Loose tailoring and a fresh approach to the classic double-breasted jacket made a case for the men of the 21st century, who are more inclined towards experimentation and functionality going hand-in- hand. Gone are the days when the colder months summoned darker hues; this season designers go all out to incorporate bright pops of colour intotheir winter wardrobes and go big on details such as prints, patterns and surface textures.In this issue, FFT reveals key trends from the runways of New York and Paris for Fall/Winter 2017-18 as showcased by ready-to-wear designers and labels.

FALL / WINTER 2017-18

Key Menswear Trends From

NEW YORK & PARIS



DIRECTIONS BY

BOMBER BACKLASHBomber jackets continue experiencing a surge, with every label offering its own version of the trend. Channelling in the rebellion borrowed from the ’50s culture adopted by the (then) youth, through military pieces like theMA-1 bomber, the trend has found a solid spot in the current times.Designers are shying away from embellished looks that stormed last year and are tilting towards newer versions that incorporate materials like satin, velvet and details evolving towards two-stone styles and patchwork.

DOUBLE-BREASTEDMenswear suiting trends have recently been resurfacing after a much ‘Vetements-hijacked’laidback year of oversized drama, overtaking the runways and streets. Enter this season, and we see a majestic army of double- breasted blazers and coats – boxy, structured, button detailed and submerged in semi-casual prints and textures. Layered over shirts, turtlenecks and sweaters, the double-breasted suits make a strong case for casual men’s staple for the season.

POPPIN’ BRIGHTDesigners decided to add a little colour boost to the dark and gloomy winter months, by presenting collections that included surprisingly brightpops of colour in coats, jackets, knittted sweaters, trousersand pretty much all else. Shades of bright orange and yellow dominated the runways rendering the colours ‘cool’ for the new age man.

CHECKING INWe are sensing a major trend here – with the classic Prince of Wales check and plaids making an appearance, show after show, and piece after piece – checks take a definite seat in the front row for the Fall/Winter 2017-18 season. Layered under jackets or worn freely as prints on trousersor scarves, checks have too many options up for grabs this season.

BOMBER BACKLASH

Dior

Rochambeau

Dior

Todd-snyder

Ovadia & Sons

Balenciaga

Givenchy

AMI

CHECKING IN

POPPIN’ BRIGHT

DOUBLE- BREASTED

Off-White Todd-Snyder

Dries Van Notan

Lanvin



DIRECTIONS BY

FUR-TASTICTaking a cue from the top trending styles of thewomenswear segment pertaining to last year, designers decidedly introduced details in the formof colourful furry patches over jackets, hoodies, gloves as well as shoes – apart from classic (faux) fur, mink and shearling coats. Feathered versions of (faux) fur, over wide lapels seemed to have gained a collective approval from the menswear bandwagon this season.

POWER PUFFComfort and utility-based outerwear is taking centre- stage this season with designers focusing on performanceas much as style. In contrast to the previously trendingslimmer silhouettes, voluminous silhouettes playing on proportion, shapes, lengths (cropped seems to be a favourite) and colour, found their way onto hi-tech materials. What grabbed our attention though, were the magical pairing of padded jackets with equally padded trousers to go along with them.

S‘LOGO’NThe slogans running through Lanvin, Sankuanz, Raf Simons and Ami channelled in a teen spirit voiceing ongoing contemporary politics and socio-political conditions around the world.It seemed like every designer needed to get something off their chest. Keeping the words simple and somewhat arbitrary is their way of addressing the issues at hand. Alternatively, the millennium inspired logo-revival continues to gain momentum as LV, Supreme and Dior stamp their garments with pun-induced identities.

PINSTRIPESVertical stripes – in all their glory, have emerged victorious this season. The bolder and much vibrant stripes from Spring/ Summer 2017, have given way to the more mellowed down, menswear classics – pinstripes in varying widths and contrasting colours. Sharply tailored or slouchy and oversized – the striped suit print has made a definitive comeback.

FUR-TASTIC PINSTRIPES

S‘LOGO’N POWER PUFF

Berluti

Raf Simons

Dior

Louis Vuitton

Hugo Boss Balenciaga

John-Varvatos

Hugo Boss

Dior Uri-Minkoff

Sacai

Balenciaga



The fabrics and prints always form the bare bones of every season’s underlying mood and silhouette. The coming Fall/Winter season will see another wave of reimagining the nostalgic shapes of bygone eras. However, the difference this time is that it is not just about remembrance but taking comfort in the memories and trying to escape from the chaos of the present.

Therefore, fabrics like wool, corduroy and suede that are the ones most in demand instantly signal a calm and luxe coziness, but that does not mean luxury is out; rather the opulence of the past is what everyone is craving for and that is evident in the comeback of fabrics like fur, fleece, corduroy and velvet.

Prints are also seeing a similar set of references where we see modern application of retro motifs and plentiful checks as well as strong stripes. Designers are constantly looking at abstract/expressionist artworks to express themselves and wherever art is not enough; they are using capitalized slogans in clear words to get their ideas across the board.

From Furs to FloralsT r e n d s F / W 2 0 1 7 - 1 8

1 FAUX FURNothing says old school elegance like lavish faux furs making a strong case for the maximalist trend that Gucci started with their fur slippers. Fur is everywhere this season from smaller accent pieceslike stoles and collar details to heavy coats like the Vetements F/W 2017-18 opening look.Some designers are embracing the trend in all its boldness,using animal prints and multicolours to channel all the jazz while others are keeping it clean with jacket linings and wrap-ups. Fur is an

F ABRIC TRENDS

undeniable crowd favourite making its appearances on the street style scene just as much as the runway.2 CORDUROY & SUEDESay hello to a fabric that is the workwear brother to velvet and has been doing its own rounds on the runways of late. Though we cannot discard velvet as a hit fabric but looking ahead, we predict corduroy as the next big throwback to the ’70s.The construction details in corduroy make it durable but soft and lustrous;

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a perfect match for trousers, casual suiting and even overcoats. A similar material that retains the softness factor and emits a beautiful yet understated sheen is suede and serves as the perfect alternative to velvet in outerwear.

3 CABLE KNITSWhen puffer jackets were the most experimental piece of the season, how can we not expect to see more ski outfits getting an update? Ski garments have been making their waves and seemingly, the by-product is the return of chunky cable knitsweaters making a strong case for ‘bigger is better’.While some designers are embracing heavy knitwear and making large sweaters in brighter colours, others are sticking to classic shades but creating more interest through intense knitting styles.4 SILK SATINYou can never talk about luxurious fabrics and forget about thepower of silk. Being a fabric this

versatile, silk is never really out of fashion but this season it is present in all its visibility through the soft glistening satin weaves.As the market for innerwear has increased, thanks to its new acceptance as outerwear, so has the demand for satins.Silk satin is coming in everything from delicate slip dresses to bomber jackets, suiting and of course, the floor length gowns that were spotted everywhere this award season.5 WARM IN WOOLSoft wools have their own place in winter fashion and designers are looking at ways to let the wools take centre stage with tweeds this time. Reminiscent of the grand English countryside, tweed is easily the wool on our mind. Going beyond the obvious, wool is not just coats but is being used everywhere from dresses to twin-sets and suiting pieces.Apart from the usual favourites, cashmere is also having its big moment because of its recognition as an investment worthy fabric rather than something that is merely fashionable.

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INDUSTRY SPEAKS“Camouflage is definitely a big-big hit and we’re doing it in different colours like grey, green and brown. Apart from winter favourites like berries, burgundy and grey is a very big colour this season and so is khaki green. We are working with a lot of structure play this time in terms of heavy weight oxfords, waffle and honeycomb knits. There are no stripes in the works but checks are the printsof the season. A lot of inspiration is coming from the dandy look, so many heritage line references are visible with buffalo, tartan, shadow checksas well as many windowpane checks. Fabrics like velvet, corduroy and un-cut corduroy are looking sensational. We are not doing much fur but polar fleece linings and sheepskins are certainly happening.”

Meenakshi Patra, Pearl Global“We definitely think heavy is a big trend in knitwear this season. We are using a lot of 4 gauge and 2.5 gauge for knitting sweaters. Hand knitting is also in demand as well as fancy yarns. Though the knit is much thicker; we are using very earthy colours like brown and greens.”

Sumit Khanna,Khanna Knitwears & Exports

“We have noticed that there is a huge surge in demand for textures. Therefore, we are using fabrics like corduroy and fleece. Apart from fleece, we are also using fur for linings in outerwear. Wool is also in demand. We are using checks in collar details and horizontal stripes on the front for T-shirt brands like Polo and Bugatti.”

Amit Agarwala, Genus Apparels“We are not working on geometrics but more on variations in stripes and florals this season. Stripes are getting broader for Winter 2017 and they are in contrasting colours for both womenswear and kids’ collections. In terms of fabric, there is a lot of texture in demand and we are achieving that with crocheted laces, poly-taffeta and heavy georgettes. There is a lot of shine as well in the collections as we are using plenty of satins and scuba fabrics.”

Amit Kedia, Chimera Threadkraft

FASHION BUSINESS



PRINT TRENDS

crazy textile prints in colours that were never anything less than the brightest hue on the wheel. However, designers are reimagining the same lozenges and eclectic florals in less hideous ways that will work for the modern aesthetic while

1 CHECKS ARE WINNINGGingham is going strong on both the Indian and international runways and can be seen in supersized to miniscule sizes and in an array of colours everywhere. Plaid is another check that is competing in this race, a pattern that is significantly inspiredfrom the ’80s era suiting styles; it was spotted in multiple winter collections.As a season focusing more on the strong lines, you cannot end the list without mentioning the print that every designer is using for coats and jackets – the Prince of Wales check.

2 STANDOUT STRIPESStripes are having its biggest moment of all time, wherein we are seeing more variation in striping than any other prints. The trend here is not just of bold awning stripes but also the crispness of pinstripes, which is always stealing the show.The use of stripes in flee flowing silhouettes is creating a new balance and imbuing a sense of power in clothing. However, they are not just endowing strong lines to designs anymore but the bright colour palettes and contrasts are giving it a more animated look as well.3 EXPLOSIVE CAMOUFLAGEMaybe it is an answer to all the unrest and ongoing violence that doesn’t seem to stop or another hunt for protection but military references have been coming from left, right and centre in fashion.Ironically, the most prominent

retaining a hint of the past like a secret.What was once the quintessential dad sweater pattern – argyleis now the most hip style staple coveted by all the ‘It girls’ in fashion and is finding its place on a wide range on silhouettes.

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of which is camouflage prints, which is blasting the runways and is present on everything from T-shirts, outerwear toflirty co-ordinates.Designers are experimenting with different colour combinationsand mixing other patterns with it to make this disguise of a print, stand out.4 ABSTRACT ARTFashion and art have always shared a gallant relationship and for good reason; who does not want to look like a walking piece of art?This season is all about expressing your feelings on the surface and it is only fitting to make use of abstract artists to accomplish that. Designers are using everything from paint drippings to randomized line drawings, sometimes as small details but mostly going for the full blast with dollops of colours as if someone dropped buckets of paint over their fabric inventory.5 RETRO FLORAOne of the most iconic things from the ’70s and ’80s were the

FASHION BUSINESS



FASHION RESOURCE

Layered over buttoned- up shirts, paired with suits or worn over utilitarian dresses, bralettes were seen being paired with anything and everything this season. Details like ruching and ruffle trims cropped up at Miu Miu and Altuzarra (who also introduced printed styles) whereas Alexander McQueen decided togo all racy by adding studded details and embellishments atop their bralettes which they layered over sheer dresses. Fur, vinyl andsheer were other favourite fabrics that made acase for this obvious trend. Victoria Beckham played with velvetwhile Céline introduced crochet versions over shirts. Giambattista Valli weaved a dreamy story

around soft laces and Miuccia Prada went all out with ostrich feathers signalling a bold and ardent return of the bralette this season.

FASHIONFILE

ColourStory

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pantone18-5619 TPX

pantone19-4005 TPX

pantone18-4140 TPX

pantone15-2215 TPX

pantone17-1514 TPX

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dsRiccardo Tisci exits GivenchyThe LVMH-owned couture house Givenchy has bid goodbye toits Creative Director, Riccardo Tisci after his contract ended on January 31. The designer, who had been at the creative helm of Givenchy for 12 glorious years, is responsible for completely rejuvenating the house and bringing it back to life. Owing tohis departure, the collection shown at Paris Couture Week in January will be his last for the French house and they will not be presenting at the next Paris Fashion Week. Apart from creating the much celebrated haute couture collections for Givenchy, Tisci earned creditfor his strong friendships in the industry with the likes of Madonna, Beyoncé and Kanye West. There are strong rumours that he will now join his long-time friend and muse Donatella Versace at her namesake label.

Neiman Marcus tries plus size in storesIn the middle of dwindling sales, Neiman Marcus has decided to tap into a previously less exploredsegment of plus size clothing. After having experienced overwhelming response from selling larger sizes online over the last 2 years, the retailer has realized the propitious demand and is testing out the same through five of its outlets opening shortly. Frank Crisci, VP of Merchandising at Neiman Marcus Last Call said, “There is a lot of product out there but a curated assortment of Tahari, Lafayette 148, Eileen Fisher etc. is harderto find.” The company plans to promote the new venture by calling it “curvy chic”, connecting it with Women’s Day and are expecting this foray to bode well for sales.

In a bid to lure an elder audience, A&F is introducing a new in store concept that looks immediately mature and polished. Designed by MJ Sagan Architecture, the new look has a boutiquefeel with a striking entrance resembling a runway with 40 mannequins lined up at the front signalling a clear shift towards personal styling. The

store looks warm, inviting and inclusive opening its doors to the old teenage consumers as well as a fresher customer base. With the unconventional fitting rooms that look like suites and more space for movement, the brand is moving towards a seemingly luxurious and high-end appeal. The first store to witness this evolution will be in Ohio and is only the first of the seven that will be opening up for business within this year.

Abercrombie & Fitch reinvents store strategy



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fter being at the helm of Esprit, India for almost 5 years,AFarah Ahmed, Head of Sourcing said goodbye to the

company.Zahid Abed, her counterpart in Bangladesh, has in the meanwhile taken up her responsibilities, but it is not confirmed whether Zahid will manage both countries or is handling India office temporarily. Reliable sources informed Apparel Online that Farah left the company for personal reasons. As of now she has not joined anywhere. Graduate from Aligarh Muslim University and having an Executive Program from ISB, Hyderabad, Farah has worked with Triburg for almost 10 years followed by a 7 years’ stint with Monsoon Accessories/Urban Craft India.Zahid Abed has been working with Esprit from last two years and prior to that he spent 7 years as V-P at Li & Fung Bangladesh Ltd. Currently, Esprit is sourcing about 29 per cent from Bangladesh (almost same compared to China) and 7 per cent from India (on fourth number); Vietnam is contributing more than 8 per cent to global sourcing.BCBG shuts 120 stores; Group may go for bankruptcy proceedingsBCBG brand, associated with California-based BCBG Max Azria Group Inc. is closing down its 120 stores (mostly in the US). These stores either are unprofitable or have untenable lease agreements and will be shut after conducting closing store sales over the next eight to 10 weeks. The company is reducing its physical retail footprint after being negatively impacted by growth in online sales at its rivals. Media reports suggest that the group is preparing for a possible bankruptcy filing as it looksto restructure its debt. The Group has more than 570 boutiques globally (including more than 175 in the US alone).

Eyes & Ears

Farah Ahmed leaves Esprit; Zahid Abed takes charge

One of the stores of BCBG

Farah Ahmed Zahid Abed

fabrics recognized in this category including Cordura TPX fabric by Chang Ho, Cordura Lite, Ballistic, Classic and HP fabrics and Cordura AFT knits. The fabricsin ‘Street Sports’ category range from denim with new performance levels to lighter functional fabrics and finishes with a fashionable edge. 10Cordura fabrics were chosen as winners in this category, including Cordura Combat Wool Denim from Artistic Milliners, technical performance, comfort- driven Cordura denims from Kipas, Turkey and long-lasting Cordura 4ever fleece by Yoonia.The ‘Outer layer’ category features lightweight but ultra-resistant woven fabrics that can provide protection against the elements, which includes winners such as ultra-lightweight Cordura Naturalle fabrics all under 80 gsm from Yoonia, LeeJo and One Chang mills in Korea and Cordura CombatWool suiting fabrics from Italian specialist Marlane.Another category ‘Base layer’ featuring next-to-skin fabrics for technical underwear, with pre-shaping, support, thermal or moisture managementperformance, Cordura 4ever knit

fabrics from Yoonia were honoured in this category with Best Product and three additional recognitions. Also selected was a Cordura Combat Wool knit fabric. ‘Second layer’ category features fleeces, lightweight protective fabrics and performance linings usable for maximum thermal characteristics. Cordura 4ever wool flannel shirting by Chia Her was among the category winners. The sixth category ‘Membranes & Coatings’ features technical membranes.Cordura Naturalle fabrics by One Chang and Yoonia and Cordura Nyco fabrics from Samtex were recognized in this category.“We are pleased to see how our valuable authorized mills are being recognized for their dedicationto creating long-lasting, durable Cordura fabrics, and we are truly humbled to receive a record- breaking 51 awards in our 50th year. We believe the future of innovation is collaboration, and as we celebrate this major milestone in our brand’s history, we are dedicated to developing the next generation of durable solutions together,” said Cindy McNaull, Global Cordura Brand and Marketing Director, Invista.

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FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK…Sometimes I feel that the word ‘sustainability’ is becoming a mere catchword, with almost every player in the apparel supply chain using the term to describe the way forward. But how many people/companies actually understand the term, is something that is debatable.The more I talk to the industry, the more I am convinced that the understanding of sustainability is still very shallow for most, and while compliance is equated to labour issues, sustainability is equated to environment concerns!There are so many dimensions to the topic and so much is happening around the world, both in direct relation to the industry and in general, that to apprehend the depth of the topic is not easy… But one thing is for sure that sustainability touches all aspects of business – from people to planet to profitability, and even if one aspect is left behind, there cannot be true sustainability.I am always fascinated by the passion that people who work in this area have their compassion for the environment, for the workers in the field and on the shop floor, which in fact is palpable. There are companies which are living this dream, and for whom there is no compromise; but then there are others for whom it is a tool for marketing.That is not to say that those using their sustainable initiatives as a marketing tool are less serious, because at the end of the day unless profits are made, all efforts are hollow and no one gains. But what I do feel is important, is the basic intent behind the efforts… If the management is 100% behind the cause, the seriousness of the goal is conveyed downward and everyone becomes a part of the movement; it no longer remains a conscious effort, but a way of life and doing business…What is however encouraging is that companies are talking about it and from being just a concept, sustainability is now a route to be successful! The faster the companies accept this and seriously look at how best to get started, the better placed they will be in the future. Of course, every company cannot have the same level of commitment or capacity to invest, but making a start is what is important.I am convinced that we need to talk more about sustainability and also move beyond the cliché… Apparel Online is committed to give relevant information on the topic, discuss issues that influence business and also present benchmark companies and practices in sustainability.The world is moving fast in this direction and the country cannot afford to remain behind, which goes for the industry too… This year, sustainability as a topic is a major agenda – from small measures like LED lights to big commitments of Green factories will be under the spanner. Concepts that support sustainable thought and new directions will be discussed, and experts shall be invited to give fresh perspectives.I also invite my readers to share their experiences, concerns and queries on sustainability…; collectively we can explore the depth and find different ways to walk the route. Indian exporters cannot afford to be left behind in a world where competitors are already awakened!

EDITORIAL TEAMEDITOR-IN-CHIEF Deepak

MohindraEDITOR

Ila Saxena

COPY EDITOR

Veereshwar Sobti

ASST. COPY EDITOR

Sahil Sehgal

ASST. EDITOR-NEWS

Dheeraj Tagra

ASST. EDITOR

Neha Chhetri

SR. CORRESPONDENT-TEXTILES

Sanjogeeta Ojha

SR. CORRESPONDENT-FASHION

Kalita Lamba

SR. EXECUTIVE-ADVERTISING

D K Chugh

CREATIVE TEAM

Raj Kumar Chahal Peeush Jauhari Satyapal Bisht Deepak Panwar

PHOTO EDITOR

Himanshu Kumar

OPERATION DIRECTOR

Mayank Mohindra

PUBLISHER & MANAGING DIRECTOR Renu Mohindra

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