apparel, educational studies & hospitality management … · course description: apparel design...

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Instructor: Tina (Christina) Denekas TA: Whitney Rorah Office 1055 & 1057 LeBaron Hall Office Phone: 515.294.7821 Email: [email protected] Office Hours: Tuesday & Thursday 10am-11am Prerequisites: AMD 301 - Enforced Meeting Times: MWF 12:10pm to 2:00pm Location: LeBaron 2063 & 2061 Course Description: Apparel design through basic draping techniques on industry standard dress forms. Analysis of fit and design, problem solving and interaction of fabric characteristics with style features. Overview Statement: Students will meet as a single group 3 days a week for lecture/demonstrations and in-class studio application. Each class session will meet for 5 hours and 30 minutes a week. AMD 325 is a course which emphasizes development of technical patternmaking skills at an intermediate level. Students continue to evolve principles bu which draping methods along with flat patternmaking to develop original design ideas. Emphasis is on relationships between two and three-dimensional design processes. These include interpretation of sketches into patterns and finished garments, and the use of draping techniques for both technical and creative design and organize research findings to formulate market strategies and trends to formulate concepts and designs for a specified market. Teaching/Learning Methods: Learning will occur in an interactive classroom environment, in which the instructor will present course information through lectures and demonstrations. Students will complete a variety of assignments designed to integrate information from the lectures and demonstrations to evaluate each student’s understanding of the material. Course Objectives:

1. Develop three-dimensional design ideas through draping of muslin on a body form. 2. Evaluation of existing garments and/or sketches to determine appropriate draping techniques needed to

develop design. 3. Develop sensitivity for fabric characteristics in order to recognize the possibilities and limitations of

different textures for garment design. 4. Develop a means for creative expression through the acquisition of skills needed to drape and produce

original garment designs. 5. Construct and use proper techniques to construct apparel first and production sample garments from

draped muslin patterns. 6. Use suitable hand construction and sewing techniques in assembling representative samples. 7. Practice fit alteration and fitting techniques. 8. Create presentations using Microsoft PowerPoint and effective visual and oral communication to present

garment designs, spec sheets, cost sheet, and other tech pack info. 9. Critique their own work and that of peers to evaluate correct methods and identify ways to strengthen

future work.

Apparel, Educational Studies & Hospitality Management AMD 325 Patternmaking II

SPRING 2014

mailto:[email protected]

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Table of Contents Syllabus Pg. # Text Pg. # AMD 325 Syllabus 1 Course Objectives 1 Expectations 3 Course Policies 4 Course Assignments & Requirements 7 Course Points 8 Grading Scale 8 Supplies 8 Schedule 9 Draping Pattern Problems Assignment Sheets & Evaluation Forms

Classic Bodice with Bust Dart 11 p.44 Bodice with French Dart 12 p.46 Swing Dress without Darts 13 p.48 Basic Dress Foundation 14 p.50 Princess Bodice 15 p.60 Armhole Princess line Bodice 16 p.64 Princess Line into a Yoke 17 p.58 Cowl Neckline 18 (handout on Bb) Straight Skirt 19 p.96 A-Line Skirt 20 p.98 Bias Circle Skirt & 6-Gore Skirt 21 p. 100 & (handout on Bb) Skirt with Yoke 22 p.110 Convertible Collar & Mandarin Collar 23 p.137 & p.146 Peter Pan Collar 24 p.148 Standing Collar 25 p.257 Basic Kimono Sleeve 26 p.198 Basic Raglan Sleeve 27 p.234 Classic Notched Lapel Jacket 28 p.222 Wide-leg trouser with Front Tucks 29 p.170 Cotton Knit top with Ribbed Neckline 30 p.188

Original Design I

Assignment Sheet 31 Self Evaluation 33 Peer Evaluation 34

Original Design II


Original Design III


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Fashion Designer James Galanos Pinning Fabric onto a Dress Form Required Texts:

Kiisel, Karolyn. (2013). Draping The Complete Course. Lawerence King Publishing: London, United Kingdom.

Reference Texts: Joseph-Armstrong, H. Draping for Apparel Design. New York: Fairchild Publications Joseph-Armstrong, H. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. New Jersey: Pretince Hall Shaeffer, C. (1993). Couture Sewing Techniques. New Jersey: Pretince Hall. Shaeffer, C. (2001). Sewing for the apparel industry. New Jersey: Pretince-Hall.

Readers Digest. New Complete Guide to Sewing. Research Site: Research fashion trends and designers for projects on the fashion forecasting site, Stylesight. Access the website from http://www.stylesight.com/edu/, on computers in 106, 108, 113, and 307 MacKay. Your username is your ISU email address and the system will generate a password (which you can change at any time). From there you may go to www.stylesight.com from anywhere and enter your login credentials.

Every 90 days you will need to reactivate your account within the IP address (106, 108, 113, 307 MacKay). You will receive instructions and pop-up messages when that time comes. Students are expected to conduct research and keep up-to-date with current styles and trends through fashion publications and on-line reporting services including Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, W, WWD & websites such as www.style.com, & www.firstview.com. There are also numerous individual designer sites. Method of Evaluation: Students will be graded on practice draping problems, two exams, and completion of three draped garments. Expectations of Myself as Instructor:

1. Start class on time 2. Be a resource for my students 3. Challenge my students 4. Provide projects that are useful tools for developing a professional portfolio 5. Be supportive of your ideas and provide constructive feedback

Expectations of You as Students:

1. Prepare yourself PRIOR to class including but not limited to preparing muslin, reading assigned book pages, and DVD included in the text.

2. Challenge yourselves 3. Have a good attitude 4. Support your classmates 5. Take pride in your work 6. Attend class and fully participate 7. Call and leave a message or email on the rare occasion you will not attend class 8. Stay for the entire class period 9. Clean up after yourself at the end of class 10. Turn off your cell phones/computers/tablets during lectures, presentations, and demonstrations.

https://exchange.iastate.edu/owa/redir.aspx?C=h2kMomxA-U20Hw-_i2npYBJXNIZ_Us8IChSipJrXnOFPzNgkg0YMb2WVr7KhzlGe3HCsq1m0hgc.&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.stylesight.com%2fedu%2f

http://www.stylesight.com/

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Lecture & Laboratory Procedures: 1. Students are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each meeting. The instructor will

NOT provide them. 2. Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of class. 3. Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted. 4. Students are expected to make their own patterns and complete their own work. 5. Students are encouraged to watch process on projects of other class members and to share learning

experience with others. 6. Projects are due on the designated date. Late projects will NOT BE ACCEPTED. The only

consideration will be given to situations with written physician’s notes or family deaths. Course Policies: Class begins promptly at the designated time. Work times in the lab are just as important as lecture, discussion and demonstrations. Along with your own efforts, you are expected to learn by observing the problems encountered by your classmates and their solutions. You are expected to have all assignments completed on time and participate in classroom critiques and discussion. You are also expected to take an active role in your education, take initiative, and ask questions for assistance. Academic Honesty - The class will follow Iowa State University’s policy on academic dishonesty. Anyone suspected of academic dishonesty will be reported to the Dean of Students Office. http://www.dso.iastate.edu/ja/academic/misconduct.html It is expected that all work you submit will be original and solely the result of your own efforts. Submitting work from a previous semester is not allowed. Resubmission of work will result in a 0 for the project. “The academic work of all students must comply with all University policies on academic honesty. Examples of academic misconduct are:

• Attempting to use unauthorized information in the taking of an exam; • Submitting as one’s own work, themes, reports, drawings, laboratory notes, computer programs or other

products prepared by another person; • Knowingly assisting another student in obtaining or using unauthorized materials; or • Plagiarism.” (Student Conduct Code, Section 4.2.1, p. 27)

All instances of cheating will be handled individually and disciplinary actions to be administered may include any or all of the following: a grade of “0” on the assignment or exam, automatic failure in the course. Accommodation of Special Needs - Iowa State University complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act and Sect 504 of the Rehabilitation Act. If you have a disability and anticipate needing accommodations in this course, please contact the instructor to set up a meeting within the first two weeks of the semester or as soon as you become aware of your need. Before meeting with the instructor, you will need to obtain a SAAR form with recommendations for accommodations from the Disability Resources Office http://www.dso.iastate.edu/dr/ , located in Room 1076 on the main floor of the Student Services Building. Their telephone number is 515.294.7220 or email [email protected]. Retroactive requests for accommodations will not be honored. Special accommodation exam - All students who need special accommodations for exams as indicated in their SARS agreement must arrange taking the exams at the Exam Accommodation Center (see below). To make sure that the exam is scheduled at the time of midterm/final, students should make reservations in advance. When students who do not need special accommodation miss an exam and are eligible for a make-up exam (e.g., illness), faculty or student with approval from the faculty should contact AESHM department office to check availability and then schedule the exam date/time. Or, consider giving the exam in his/her office. Alcohol & Controlled Substance Abuse - Abuse of alcohol or other controlled substances, during sponsored university events, during field studies, or in class settings, or when it creates a hazard for the student and others in the room provides justification for receiving a failing grade for the course or removal from the event. (See the ISU policies at http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/alcohol/ and http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/drugs )

http://www.dso.iastate.edu/dr/

mailto:[email protected]

http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/alcohol/

http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/drugs

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Attendance – Success in this group study requires attendance. Formal attendance will not be taken; however, as an emerging professional into the apparel industry it is expected you will attend class and fully participate in each class meeting. Attendance is required for every class session except for extenuating circumstances. You are allowed up to a total of three absences, excused or unexcused. At the fourth absence, your final grade will be lowered by 5 percent. Each additional absence beyond the fourth lowers your final grade by another 5 percent. Coming to class late (5 minutes or more) three times equals one unexcused absence. Leaving early will also affect your final grade. If a class is missed it is your responsibility to obtain the information missed. Use your absences carefully! Class absences because of study tours, course-related field trips, professional conferences, practicum, and other educational activities that requires students to be absent from class will be handled as follows. Faculty supervising the educational activity should provide a memo or letter identifying specific dates and educational activity (study tour, field trip, etc.) to students sufficiently in advance so that faculty teaching other classes can be notified of absences. Students should allow no less than 5 days (excluding weekends) before the absence. Prior to the missed class, students need to discuss with the instructor make-up exams, announced quizzes, projects or labs that will be missed. Assignments – Late assignments will not be accepted. If you encounter extenuating circumstances please contact me within 6 hours of the projects due time. Classroom Courtesy – Respect and care for the classroom and studio spaces are expected of each student. You are to leave the studio in better condition than you found it, so that all students have a positive experience using our studio and classroom spaces. You are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each meeting. Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of class. Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted. You are encouraged to watch progress on projects of other class members and to share learning experience with others. Class Prep - You will be expected AND required to prepare all muslin PRIOR to the start of class at 12pm. This means you must read the assigned text, cut, press, and prepare fabric according to measurements listed in text. In class draping exercises will be due at the end of each class meeting. To ensure time for completion, preparation must be done or students risk losing points. Course Fees - A course fee of $90 is assigned to this class. A general fee of $45 is assessed to all students in the class that covers lab equipment maintenance and repairs, pattern paper, thread, etc. The rest of the funds are used to purchase tag board, pattern hooks, and fabric for draping exercises. Students are responsible for purchasing all muslin, materials for design projects including but not limited to, fashion fabric, linings, closures, etc. Students can utilize the digital textile printer if so desired and will be responsible for the costs associated with that. Dead Week - This class follows the Iowa State University Dead Week policy as noted in section 10.6.4 of the Faculty Handbook http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook. Electronic Devices - All usage of laptops or other similar devices must be approved by the instructor. All cell phones should be turned off and put away, or the instructor can ask the student to leave the classroom for the rest of the class period, in which case it will be counted as an absence. It is understood the use of computers will occur frequently in this class. It’s asked that you refrain from using it while the instructor is teaching a lesson, and left for work time. General: Use correct terminology; list citations for all references (use appropriate style such as APA, MLA, or the Chicago Style Manual), including Internet sources, and quotations (class materials will identify specific citation format to be used); apply appropriate mathematical and industry/business concepts, and use standard English grammar and punctuation.

http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook

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Global Citizenship: Global citizenship involves positive interaction with and respect for other cultures and the diversity of individuals in and out of the classroom. A good global citizen will make an effort to appreciate differences in language, culture, customs, behaviors and means of doing business, accept diversity and seek to build new relationships. Global citizens treat everyone with respect and courtesy in and out of the classroom. International faculty and teaching assistants are to be accorded the same attention and courtesy as given to other faculty and TAs. Harassment and Discrimination - Iowa State University strives to maintain our campus as a place of work and study for faculty, staff, and students that is free of all forms of prohibited discrimination and harassment based upon race, ethnicity, sex (including sexual assault), pregnancy, color, religion, national origin, physical or mental disability, age, marital status, sexual orientation, gender identity, genetic information, or status as a U.S. veteran. Any student who has concerns about such behavior should contact his/her instructor, Student Assistance at 515-294-1020 or email [email protected], or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance at 515-294-7612. Picking Up Student Work Following Grading - The pickup of all student projects and papers must be monitored for security and confidentiality. Individual professors/instructors may make arrangements to return assignments during class periods or from their offices. Items must be monitored by the professor/instructor to insure that they are not lost or stolen. Professors and instructors, who are not able to sufficiently monitor this activity, must arrange for pick-up in 31 MacKay by providing the office staff with a class list. Students must show their student ID and sign for all items before they will be allowed to retrieve them. Presentations, projects, assignments, and papers: These graded dimensions of a course must be presented in the format identified in the syllabus or project/assignment description handout. Professional Behavior: Professional behavior and a professional work attitude are expected of all students/staff/faculty at all times while on campus, in class, or while representing ISU away from campus (including field trips, field study, internships, and study tours). This includes respect and consideration of fellow students, faculty, and TAs; maintaining classroom spaces; meeting or adhering to dress codes, where applicable; and active participation in group and individual critiques and classroom discussions. Demonstration of respect includes paying attention to speakers, arriving on time for class or appointments, staying in class for the entire time and not walking out of class before it is over or returning after a few minutes, appropriate demeanor during class (no whispering, listening to music, no cell phones ringing or being answered, no use of electronic communication such as texting or visiting websites), etc. Religious Accommodation - If an academic or work requirement conflicts with your religious practices and/or observances, you may request reasonable accommodations. Your request must be in writing, and your instructor or supervisor will review the request. You or your instructor may also seek assistance from the Dean of Students Office or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance.

Standards for student work: All student work must adhere to the minimum standards listed below and in the course syllabus.

Student Work in Repeat Classes - This policy applies to the work handed in by students who are repeating a course offered by the AESHM Department. All coursework for the repeat attempt must be original work and cannot have been worked on or submitted for a grade in the original or subsequent attempt(s). This coursework includes but is not limited to papers, presentations, notebooks, portfolios, projects, and labs. Any work submitted for a second time that had been submitted in a previous semester by that or any other student will receive an F for that project/assignment and a new project/assignment cannot be submitted later in the semester to remedy the F. See the ISU policy at http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#academicdishonesty Contact Information - If you are experiencing, or have experienced, a problem with any of the above issues, email [email protected]. Teamwork: Communicate effectively with team members (attend group meetings, exchange critical contact information (email address and phone number(s)), share written communication – including email), work cooperatively with members, and contribute equally to project development and written/visual materials.

http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#academicdishonesty

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Students failing minimum teamwork expectations may be removed from the team. See the syllabus for individual course policies. Work Areas: You are responsible for keeping the classroom neat and clean. Each student needs to clean up their work areas before she or he leaves. Pick up scraps on tables and the floor and put away pattern blocks and equipment. Absolutely no food or drink is allowed in the classroom at any time. It is the responsibility of the last person leaving the workroom to be sure the irons, lights, and all machines are turned off.

Course Assignments & Requirements: *For more detailed information on grading please refer to individual grade sheets. Draping Problem Assignments (20 points each) - Each assignment will be evaluated on the form, then turned in and due by the end of class. Each draping problem assignment will be turned in on a pattern hook with the following attached:

1. finished muslin (14pts) a. trued lines and labeled properly ie name, pattern name, size, form number, any

identifying markings (bust point, seam allowances, grainline, CF/CB, closure location, etc)

2. paper pattern (4pts) a. pattern muslin transferred to properly labeled as above and accurately transferred

3. grading sheet from syllabus with students name (1pts) 4. rabbit punch and attach to pattern hook (1pts)

Original Designs (100 points each) – Each original design project will be turned in on a proper garment hanger and needs to include the following attached to hanger via rabbit punch on paper items:

1. Target Market write up 2. Muslin Drape with proper labeling on muslin 3. Pattern Cards 4. Specification Sheet & Sourcing 5. Production Guide 6. Production Pattern (paper pattern) 7. Production Sample (fashion fabric) 8. Follow up evaluation papers 9. PowerPoint Presentation uploaded to CyBox

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Course Points: *Draping Problem Assignments 20 @ 20 points each: 400 points ♦ Classic Bodice w/

Bust Dart ♦ Bodice w/ French Darts ♦ Swing Dress w/o Darts ♦ Basic Dress Foundation ♦ Princess Bodice ♦ Armhole Princess

Bodice ♦ Princess Line into a

Yoke ♦ Cowl Neckline ♦ Straight Skirt

♦ A-Line Skirt ♦ Bias Circle Skirt & 6-Gore Skirt ♦ Skirt with Yoke ♦ Convertible Collar & Mandarin Collar ♦ Peter Pan Collar ♦ Standing Collar ♦ Basic Kimono Sleeve ♦ Basic Raglan Sleeve ♦ Classic Notched Lapel Jacket ♦ Wide-leg trouser with Front Tucks ♦ Cotton Knit top with Ribbed Neckline

Midterm Exam 100 points Final Exam 100 points Original Design 1 100 points Original Design 2 100 points Original Design 3 100 points Total Points 900 points Grading Scale: Add + and - 833 - 900 = A 801 - 832 = A- 788 - 800 = B+ 743 - 787 = B 716 - 742 = B- 698 – 715 = C+ 653 – 697 = C 626 – 652 = C- 608 – 625 = D+ 563 – 607 = D 536 – 562 = D- 0 – 535 = F Late Policy: Late assignments will not be accepted. Supplies: Mechanical Pencil Red Ball Point Pen French Curve Vary Form Curve B85 plastic ruler Push Pins & Pincushion Masking Tape Disappearing Ink Marking Pen Sharpie Pen NOT Marker Tailor’s Chalk Pencil Long dressmaker steel pins with glass heads Fabric Shears Paper Scissors Tracing Wheel Seam Ripper Juki Bobbin Case & Bobbins Juki Zipper Feet Thimble Needles for hand stitching

Muslin Fashion fabric (there is some available for student use in the pattern room closet, please ask instructor) Findings for original designs Colored Pencils: Red, Green, White Awl Measuring Tape Tracing Paper Tracing Wheel Draping Muslin: 60” wide, 10-20yds, Available at JoAnns, Hobby Lobby, Hancock Fabrics, etc Cotton Knit Fabric 45”/60”, 2yds *This list is an estimate, more supplies could be required.

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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due Week 1 January 13th

Introduction - Syllabus Draping Intro Slide Show

pp. 6-13

January 15th Assign dress forms, Muslin & Form Prep, Body Measurements

pp. 18-25

January 17th Muslin & Form Prep, Body Measurements Bodice & Dresses Classic Bodice w/Bust Dart p.44

pp. 38-44 Classic Bodice w/ Bust Dart

Week 2 January 20th

NO CLASS – ISU HOLIDAY

January 22nd Bodice w/ French Dart p.46 Trueing & Transferring Muslin to Tag Board

pp. 46-47 Bodice w/ French Dart

January 24th Swing Dress w/o Darts p.48 Trueing & Transferring Muslin to Tag Board

pp. 48-49 Swing Dress w/o Darts

Week 3 January 27th

Basic Dress Foundation p.50 pp. 50-57 Basic Dress Foundation

January 29th Princess Bodice p.60 pp. 60-63 Princess Bodice January 31st Armhole Princess line Bodice p.64 pp. 64-65 Armhole Princess line

Bodice Week 4 February 3rd

Princess Line into a Yoke p.58 Cowl Bodice

pp. 58-59 Tutorial On Bb

Princess Line into a Yoke & Cowl

February 5th Skirts Straight Skirt p.96

pp. 88-91 pp. 96-97

Straight Skirt

February 7th A-Line Skirt p.98 pp. 98-99 A-Line Skirt Week 5 February 10th

Bias Circle Skirt p.100 6-Gore Skirt

pp. 100-101 Tutorial On Bb

Bias Circle Skirt 6-Gore Skirt

February 12th Skirt with Yoke p.110 pp. 110-111 Skirt with Yoke February 14th Convertible Collar p.137

Mandarin Collar p.146 pp. 137-139 pp. 146-147

Convertible Collar Mandarin Collar

Week 6 February 17th

Peter Pan Collar p.148 Standing Collar p.257

pp. 148-149 pp. 257

Peter Pan Collar Standing Collar

February 19th The two-piece sleeve draft Basic Kimono Sleeve p.198

pp. 198-201 pp. 215-218

Basic Kimono Sleeve

February 21st Basic Raglan Sleeve p.234 pp. 234-238 Basic Raglan Sleeve Week 7 February 24th

Coats & Jackets Classic Notched Lapel Jacket p.222

pp. 200-209 pp. 217-220

Classic Notched Lapel Jacket

February 26th Pants Wide-leg Trouser with Front Tucks p.170

pp. 156-161 pp. 170-175

Wide-leg Trouser

February 28th Cotton Knit top with Ribbed Neckline p.188 pp. 184-189 Cotton Knit Top Week 8 March 3rd

Bias Lecture pp. 282-298

March 5th Original Design 1 (upper & lower torso garment) Assigned, Discuss Pattern Cards

pp. 112-150 Pattern Card Information Pattern Procedure List

March 7th Original Design 1 – Drape Muslin Week 9 March 10th

Original Design 1 – Fit Muslin

March 12th Original Design 1- Cut Fashion Fabric March 14th Original Design 1- Sew Fashion Fabric Week 10 March 17th

Spring Break!

March 19th Spring Break! March 21st Spring Break!

Week 11 March 24th

Original Design 1- Sew Fashion Fabric

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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due March 26th Original Design 1 - Present Original Design 1 March 28th Midterm Exam bring all supplies for midterm Week 12 March 31st

Original Design 2 (Skirt) Assigned pp. 88-110

April 2nd Original Design 2 - Drape April 4th Original Design 2 – Fit Muslin Week 13 April 7th

Original Design 2 – Cut/Sew Fashion Fabric

April 9th Original Design 2 – Sew Fashion Fabric April 11th Original Design 2 – Sew Fashion Fabric Week 14 April 14th

Original Design 2 - Present Original Design 2

April 16th Original Design 3 Assigned April 18th Original Design 3 – Drape Week 15 April 21st

Original Design 3 – Fit Muslin

April 23rd Original Design 3 – Cut/Sew April 25th Original Design 3 – Sew Week 16 April 28th

Original Design 3 – Sew

April 30th Original Design 3 - Sew May 2nd Original Design 3 - Present Original Design 3 May 8th Final Exam Thursday May 8th 12-2 FINALS WEEK Final Exam

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AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Classic Bodice with Bust Dart

Turn in this form to have your project graded Evaluation Category Points

Possible Points Earned

Comments & Suggestions

NEATNESS: • Markings are necessary but not

confusing • Seam Allowances trimmed

appropriately • Seams pressed open if sewing

4

FIT & TRUEING: • Appropriate ease on form • Balanced grainlines and fullness • Matching notches • Appropriate seam placement for fit

4

SEAM ALLOWANCES, GRAINLINES, & LABELING: • S.A. = ½” on all seams, ¼” at

neckline and armholes • LWG in red • CWG in redgreen • CF & CB marked • Labeling – name, mannequin

name, name of draping problem, size, cutting directions – RSU or Cut _ Pair, date

4

PAPER TRANSFER EXECUTION: • Properly traced • Properly cut with proper

techniques • Markings are neat and even • Curves are not distorted • Ease and fullness is distributed

evenly • Neat dart end finishes

4

CONCEPTUAL INTERPRETATION: • Execution exemplifies an overall

comprehension of the mechanics of the problem so that the student in variations of his or her own may use the technique.

2

GRADE SHEET ATTACHED 1 RABBIT PUNCHED & HOOK 1 TOTAL POINTS 20 Additional Comments:

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AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Bodice with French Dart







4


4


neckline and armholes • LWG in red • CWG in greenred • CF & CB marked • Labeling – name, mannequin


4




4



2


13

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Swing Dress without Darts







4


4




4




4



2


14

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Basic Dress Foundation







4


4




4




4



2


15

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Princess Bodice







4


4




4




4



2


16

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Armhole Princess Line Bodice







4


4




4




4



2


17

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Princess Line into a Yoke







4


4




4




4



2


18

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Cowl Neckline







4


4




4




4



2


19

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Straight Skirt







4


4




4




4



2


20

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ A-Line Skirt







4


4




4




4



2


21

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Bias Circle Skirt & 6-Gore Skirt







4


4




4




4



2


22

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Skirt with Yoke







4


4




4




4



2


23

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Convertible Collar & Mandarin Collar







4


4




4




4



2


24

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Peter Pan Collar







4


4




4




4



2


25

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Standing Collar







4


4




4




4



2


26

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Basic Kimono Sleeve







4


4




4




4



2


27

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Basic Raglan Sleeve







4


4




4




4



2


28

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Classic Notched Lapel Jacket







4


4




4




4



2


29

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Wide-leg Trouser with Front Tucks







4


4




4




4



2


30

AMD 325 Draping Problems Evaluation Form Name ________________________ Cotton Knit top with Ribbed Neckline







4


4




4




4



2


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AMD 325 Original Design I Due: March 26, 2013 Purpose: To drape a 1st sample and sew a production sample of an upper and lower torso garment

(dress/jumpsuit) with sleeve(s). Must use woven fabric, and a minimum of 2 different weights of fabric.

Project Overview: This project will allow each student to explore using draping skills and handling of fabric weights when draping to create an upper and lower torso garment, with sleeve(s), in muslin, then translate the design to fashion fabric. A presentation will be required and submitted via Cybox along with all paper work submitted with a rabbit punch attached to the hanger holding the final garment. Criteria for the Design: Upper and lower torso coverage Facings or bias bindings Collar Sleeve(s) Shaping Devices Closures – Buttons or Zippers Part of the garment is draped on the bias Unique Design Lines Evaluation:

Stages of Production Points Possible

1. Define the target market – in writing Age Sex Leisure Activities Income Education Shopping Habits Geographic Location

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2. Muslin Drape – Full Body

Include the following: Front Back Collar – Upper & Lower Armhole Facing Facing or Bias Binding Any additional pieces Seam allowances – ¼” at neckline & armhole if sleeveless, ½” all other areas

Notches Grainlines Labeling

Style Number -- # on the Shell Dress Form Name Pattern piece Size Date completed Patternmaker’s name

20

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Sew with appropriate seam, seam finishes and closures 3. Specification Sheet & Sourcing

define the materials needed to create the product locate sources for the materials purchasing of the required materials develop technical sketches of the product develop specifications include the following:

-Technical Sketch (Front & Back View) on U4ia Sketch 2.5 -Measurements (Spec & Actual) 2.5 -Finishing Instructions 1 -Fabrics & Findings 1 -Sizes Available & Colors Available 1 -Design of Specification Sheet & Style

Number and Name 1 -Neatness 1

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4. Production Pattern Transfer the Muslin Drape to Pattern Paper Patternmaker’s name Include the following:

All appropriate pattern pieces Seam allowances – ¼” at neckline & armhole if sleeveless, ½” all other areas


Style Number -- # on the Shell Dress Form Name Pattern piece Size Date completed

10

5. Production Sample Sewn with appropriate stitches & seams 10 Includes appropriate finishes & closures 5 Seam allowances are finishes 5 Neatness & Pressing 5 Design meets the Criteria 5

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6. Production Guide develop a production guide for the production of the project have the production guide checked by the professor include the following:

-Breakdown with Stitch & Seam Types 5 -Technical Sketch (Front & Back View) 1 -Finishing Instructions 1 -Fabrics & Findings 1 -Design of Production Guide Sheet & Style


10

7. Follow-Up self-evaluation of the process

10

Total Points 100

33

AMD 325 Draping Production Sample I Self Evaluation Name _________________________________________________ 1. What did you learn from draping the muslin first sample? 2. What changes did you make to the first sample, before making the production sample? 3. How did your choice of fabric relate to the final design? 4. What type of seam finishes did you use and were they appropriate for all the seams,

including enclosed seams? 5. What went extremely well with this project? 6. What would you do differently if you had this project to redo?

34

AMD 325 Original Design I Peer Evaluations Name _________________________________________________ Which designs exhibit overall neatness? Which designs have exemplary construction and finishing details? Which designs have unique shaping devices? Which designs have unique collars? Which designs are original, but also extremely marketable for Fall 2014? Which designs are original, but also extremely marketable for Spring 2015?

35

AMD 325 Original Design 2 Due: April 14, 2013 Purpose: To drape a 1st sample and sew a production sample of a dress made from knit fabric. Project Overview: This project will introduce students to cut and sew knits by allowing each student to explore garment design using draping skills and create a dress in muslin, then translate the design to knit fashion fabric. A presentation will be required and submitted via Cybox along with all paper work submitted with a rabbit punch attached to the hanger holding the final garment. Criteria for the Design: Dress Knit fabric of students choice Facings, bias bindings, or waistband Closures – Buttons or Zippers Unique Design Lines Evaluation:


8. Define the target market – in writing Age Sex Leisure Activities Income Education Shopping Habits Geographic Location

10

9. Muslin Drape – Full Body

Include the following: Front Back Collar – Upper & Lower Armhole Facing Facing or Bias Binding Any additional pieces Seam allowances – ¼” at neckline & armhole if sleeveless, ½” all other areas



Sew with appropriate seam, seam finishes and closures

20

36

10 Specification Sheet & Sourcing




10

11 Production Pattern Transfer the Muslin Drape to Pattern paper Patternmaker’s name Include the following:




10

12 Production Sample Sewn with appropriate stitches & seams 10 Includes appropriate finishes & closures 5 Seam allowances are finishes 5 Neatness & Pressing 5 Design meets the Criteria 5

30

13 Production Guide develop a production guide for the production of the project have the production guide checked by the professor include the following:



10

14 Follow-Up self-evaluation of the process

10

Total Points 100

37

AMD 325 Draping Production Sample II Self Evaluation Name _________________________________________________ 7. What did you learn from draping the muslin first sample? 8. What changes did you make to the first sample, before making the production sample? 9. How did your choice of fabric relate to the final design? 10. What type of seam finishes did you use and were they appropriate for all the seams,


38

AMD 325 Original Design II Peer Evaluations Name _________________________________________________ Which designs exhibit overall neatness? Why? Which designs have exemplary construction and finishing details? Why Which designs have unique shaping devices? What are they? Which designs have a good use of the fabric’s physical properties? Which designs have seam finishes from matching color threads? Which garments look a good on the inside as the outside?

39

AMD 325 Original Design 3 Due: May 2, 2013 Purpose: To drape a 1st sample and sew a production sample of a dress. Project Overview: This project will allow each student to explore using draping skills to create a bias dress in muslin, then translate the design to fashion fabric. A presentation will be required and submitted via Cybox along with all paper work submitted with a rabbit punch attached to the hanger holding the final garment. Criteria for the Design: Bias draped Collar – optional Shaping Devices Facings or bias bindings Closures – Buttons or Zippers A part of the design must be on the bias Unique Design Lines Evaluation:


15 Define the target market – in writing Age Sex Leisure Activities Income Education Shopping Habits Geographic Location

10

16 Muslin Drape – Full Body

Include the following: Front Back Collar – Upper & Lower Armhole Facing Facing or Bias Binding

Any additional pieces Seam allowances – ¼” at neckline & armhole if sleeveless, ½” all other areas



Sew with appropriate seam, seam finishes and closures

20

40

17 Specification Sheet & Sourcing




10

18 Production Pattern Transfer the Muslin Drape to Tagboard Patternmaker’s name Include the following:




10

19 Production Sample Sewn with appropriate stitches & seams 10 Includes appropriate finishes & closures 5 Seam allowances are finishes 5 Neatness & Pressing 5 Design meets the Criteria 5

30

20 Production Guide develop a production guide for the production of the project have the production guide checked by the professor include the following:



10

21 Follow-Up self-evaluation of the process

10

Total Points 100

41

AMD 325 Draping Production Sample III Self Evaluation Name _________________________________________________ 13. What did you learn from draping the muslin first sample? 14. What changes did you make to the first sample, before making the production sample? 15. How did your choice of fabric relate to the final design? 16. What type of seam finishes did you use and were they appropriate for all the seams,


42

AM325 Original Design III Peer Evaluations Name _________________________________________________ Which designs exhibit overall neatness? Why? Which designs have exemplary construction and finishing details? Why Which designs have unique shaping devices? What are they? Which designs have a good use of the fabric’s physical properties? Which designs have seam finishes from matching color threads? Which garments look a good on the inside as the outside?

apparel, educational studies & hospitality management … · course description: apparel design...

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