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Fashion Tech
Milan, February 2018
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
1
Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center and Fashionbi have identified and analyzed five main trends in
2018 that will be growing in the next years and will impact the global Fashion & Luxury markets.
These five main trends are:
Fashion Tech
Fashion & Healthcare;
Digital Retail Marketing;
Brands’ Collaborations for Market Expansion;
Socially Responsible Business.
In 2018 Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center and Fashionbi will prepare 3 reports. Each report will
contain an analysis of the chosen trend and will be supported by the case-studies of the existing players
in the industry as well as startups.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
2
The 3 Reports (English and Italian) in pipeline are:
1st Report 2018: Fashion Tech: innovations in product design, production and
deliveries
2nd Report 2018: Fashion & Healthcare: the cross - link between fashion market
and the healthcare industry – End June 2018
3rd Report 2018: Digital Retail Marketing: modern techniques to reach potential
customers and increase business efficiency – End October 2018
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
1 Major Trends in Fashion Industry
2 Fashion Tech
3 Innovation in Fabrics
4 Innovation in Design
5 Innovation in Production
6 Smart Products
7 Innovation in Delivery
8 Future of the Fashion Industry
INDEX
3
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
4
Major Trends in Fashion Industry
FASHION TECH FASHION &
HEALTHCARE
DIGITAL RETAILING
MARKETING
BRANDS’
COLLABORATIONS
SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE
BUSINESS
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
5
It has become clear that traditional shopping and service are not enough, so the brands are going the extra
mile and are attempting to provide a unique experience by introducing technology into the shopping. Some
brands were able to amaze and captivate customers with an even stronger “Wow effect” by introducing
Virtual Reality, Augmented Reality and even Artificial Intelligence into the shopping experience.
>75% of fashion retailers plan to invest in AI in 2018/2019.
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryI Fashion Tech
13% consumers sign up to
brand communications
through VR content
by 2020, 85% of customer
interaction in retail will be
managed by AI
Number of connected
wearable devices is expected
to reach 830 Mln in 2020
European fashion tech start-
ups raised €440 Mln in the
first 5 months of 2016
Source: tech.eu, www.businessoffashion.com
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
6
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryI Fashion Tech
The UK and Germany, and more
specifically London and Berlin, have
emerged as Europe’s leading fashion
tech hubs that account for the vast
majority of investments.
90% of the €440 million raised so far in
2016 is attributed to two massive rounds
from British/Portuguese startup
Farfetch and Global Fashion Group,
Rocket Internet’s fashion retailer. Even
excluding GFG and Farfetch’s deals,
funding activity in the sector has
increased year-on-year.
Distribution of investment in fashion startups, Europe & Israel
Source: tech.eu
For 2016 the data is indicated till May only
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
7
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryI Fashion Tech
Since the emergence of interactive
textile and e-textile, the market using
these products in the fabrics has grown a
lot. These textiles embed conducting
threads into the fabric to give the
garments a functional ability.
During the past few years the revenues
from the interactive and e-textile has
surged with double digit growth.
Through the period of 2012-2018, the
revenue had an average annual growth
of 16.44% per year.
Source: Statista.com
Global smart, intelligent, digital & interactive fabrics/textile
market revenue, Bln US dollars
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
8
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryI Fashion Tech
Greater acceptance and demand for technology innovation have led to synergies with the field of fashion,
the following being some of the major trends:
CLOUD
COMPUTING
The virtualization and
central management of
data resources as software-
defined pools.
With the expansive use of
big data in fashion, Cloud
computing helps in reducing
costs, better collaboration
across the supply chain and
easy interaction with
consumers.
CONNECTED
PRODUCTS
Connected products are
achieved by giving a
physical item a unique
digital identity in the
cloud, allowing them to tap
into real-time software
capabilities, applications
and analytics by making
the products part of the
ecosystem of the web.
ARTIFICIAL
INTELLIGENCE
AI technologies are
capable of performing
tasks that normally require
human intelligence. With
increasing amount of data
about sales and consumer
preferences, AI provides
leverage to improve the
retail experience for the
digitally-savvy affluent
consumer.
MIXED
REALITY
A hybrid of both Augmented
Reality and Virtual Reality,
Mixed Reality (MR) is far
more advanced, providing
the capability to overlay
augmented holographic
digital content into the
real-time space, creating
scenarios that are
unbelievably realistic.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
9
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryI Fashion Tech
For a fashion brand, it is hard to lead a technological innovation on its own. As the result, the top
companies collaborate with the tech giants like Microsoft, Google, IBM, Cisco. It is important to
mention that both the parties of such collaborations are proudly mentioned, when it comes to the
innovation release.
Asos switched to the
Microsoft's cloud Azure
platform-as-a-service for
the growth of the online
business
Cisco have developed
virtual smart mirrors
‘StyleMe’ for retailer John
Lewis’ flagship store on
Oxford Street
The North Face is using
the IBM Watson-based
Fluid XPS system for the
online shopping
consultancy
Levi’s smart jacket uses
advantage technology from
Google, which involves
weaving multi-touch
sensors into clothing
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
10
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryII Fashion & Healthcare
STAYING HEALTHYIS THE NEW BLACKGrowing concerns of ill health and fitness have led to an unprecedented trend in the fashion and lifestyle
industry. Health and wellness have become the ultimate luxury.
A craze to get fit has given rise to many new fashion brands, and innovative products are being flaunted as
accessories to adopt the athleisure trend. The relationship between fashion and health is becoming more
and more vital, with both industries mutually inducing trends in one another.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
11
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryII Fashion & Healthcare
$3.7 Tn
$51.6 Bln
5.9%
26.4 Bln
Value of Global
Wellness Economy
Increase in sales from 2013-2018
of Organic Beauty products
CAGR from 2016-2020 Globally
of Health and Wellness Marketing
Forecasted Global sales revenue
of Wearable devices in 2018
Source: womensmarketing.com ,businesswire.com, statista.com
People are gravitating towards a
healthier lifestyle. A well-balanced
lifestyle is the biggest trend that
consumers are buying into. It is a macro
trend which can be seen in almost every
industry today.
Health awareness has affected fashion
choices of many consumers, who are
now buying products which have health
benefits embedded in them. This
awareness has penetrated the fashion
industry in diverse ways.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
12
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryII Fashion & Healthcare
Wearable tech has seen
tremendous growth and will
continue to remain popular.
Devices are now becoming
sleeker, keeping up with fashion
trends.
Number of Smart clothing
shipments in 2017 were 3.3
million and will have a CAGR of
76.1% in 2021.*
Smartwatch market will climb
from 71.4 million in 2017 to 161
million in 2021; and the wristband
segment will increase from 47.6
million to 52.2 million in the same
period. Source: International Data Corporation
Beauty regimes are on the verge
of an overhaul, as cosmetics will
now be accompanied by beauty
supplements for enhanced long-
term effects.
The market is expected to
expand at a compound annual
growth rate of 8.6% over the
period from 2016 to 2024.
Presently, Asia-Pacific
dominates the segment and will
continue to do so in the next few
years, with Japan being the
biggest market.
Source: insidertradings.org
Number of wearable
devices shipped
Global beauty
supplements
market size
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
13
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryII Fashion & Healthcare
Mental Health problem for
fashion industry professionals
Health problems for customers
due to tight jeans, high heels,
restrictive clothing, etc.
Health and safety hazards for
workers in fashion industry
Models’ health in jeopardy due
to unrealistic beauty standards
fashion and health problems
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
14
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryII Fashion & Healthcare
spending power of disabled in UKpeople with disabilities globally
fashion for the disabled and ill
1.3 Bln £249 Bln
As fashion becomes more inclusive, designers and brands are now thinking of ways to bring fashionable
products to the disabled. This is a highly niche market, and remains largely untapped. Fashion can be made
accessible to the disabled by designing special clothing to suit their physical disabilities, or simply making the
stores more disability friendly. Brands are also designing clothes for people with specific illnesses, for
example, Type 1 diabetes.Source: returnondisability.com, www.gov.uk
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
15
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIII Digital Marketing
In the age of technology advancements, the global retail industry is going through the major changes.
Retailers are investing in IoT technologies — from beacons that beam shoppers customized coupons
to radio frequency identification tags that track inventory. 72% of retailers plan to reinvent their
supply chain with real-time visibility enabled by automation, sensors and analytics.
Source: ZIH Corp. study
Cameras and
video analytics
for operational
purposes
Loss prevention and
inventory visibility
elements enabled by
operational technology
Cognitive computing
to drive optimizations
and insights
Visual analytics for
making sense out of IoT
data. Predictive analytics
Software
analytics for loss
prevention, price
optimization
Big data solutions for
storing and analyzing IoT
generated data
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
16
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIII Digital Marketing
Today, marketers seek more efficient ways to collect and
use data in order to improve the customer experience and
build further marketing strategies. Moreover, the possibility
to operate with the real-time data can provide a
competitive advantage to the business.
Only the data driven approach can bring fruitful
results; the data should fuel every aspect of the
marketing initiatives.
It is important to remember that data driven retail marketing
is not about collecting every piece of information, but about
collecting and analyzing right data at the right time and
in the right place.
89% of customers switch
brands after a poor
customer experience
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
17
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIII Digital Marketing
Source: Data Mentors, Forbes Insights
The Biggest Drivers Behind Increasing Data-Driven Marketing
A need to be more customer centric
Maximize efficiency of marketing investments
Gain more knowledge of customers & prospects
The growing availability of audience data
A need to align with digital customer preferences
53%
49%
33%
24%
20%
Data-driven marketing approach can
secure the analysis and on-time
assistance to the new generation of
shoppers who want to be understood
across multiple channels.
At the same time, majority of the
companies do not have a central
repository of clean data. Much of this
data is often residing in departmental
silos.
50% of Leaders collect campaign metrics, compared to 16% of Laggards
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
18
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIII Digital Marketing
Where Are These Data Efforts Being Focused?
Targeting of
offers,
messages,
and content
Data-driven
strategy or
product
development
Customer
experience
optimization
Audience
analytics /
measurement
Predictive
analytics
69% 52% 49% 44% 44%
The data can help marketers target the concrete product offer for the concrete customer. This
can lead to the optimization of the customer experience and help to build further business strategy.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
19
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIV Brands’ Collaborations
The brands are constantly under the pressure of selling more goods to more customers, and it is quite
hard to do it if the company already has a wide assortment and is present in all key geographical
markets.
There seems to be a common solution: collaborations that are launched between different players
in the industry. Recently, we have witnessed numerous 'creative collaborations' of the companies from
different or even the same market segments, or with third-party companies, artists and celebrities.Brand & Brand
The brands partner for
the release of the new
products during the
fashion weeks
Brand & Retailer
Online and offline
retailers sell exclusive
collections, which were
created in limited
editions
Brand & Artist
Premium brands
attract artists from all
over the world to
design exclusive
prints
Brand & Celebrity
Celebrities become
designers and offer
new products to catch
the attention of the
market
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
20
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIV Brands’ Collaborations
Bra
nd
& B
ran
d
As the SS18 collection was
unveiled at the PFW,
Sandra Choi, Creative
Director of Jimmy Choo
has stated that the
collaboration ‘allows to
explore a new avenue and
take part in a different
conversation’.
In November 2017 a new
suitcase by Rimowa was
released, in collaboration
with Fendi. The suitcase is
available in limited number
at selected locations
worldwide. In 2016,
Rimowa collaborated with
Moncler.
Manolo Blahnik and Bulgari
co-designed an exclusive
pair of shoes with ultra-
precious ankle straps
counting more than 1,141ct
of diamonds, 4,861ct of
rubellites, and 3,819ct of
amethysts.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
21
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIV Brands’ Collaborations
Bra
nd
& R
eta
ile
r
For the first time, Fendi
partnered with an online
retailer, MyTheresa.com.
The brand created a limited
edition line of millennial
pink wares, such as leather
bags and accessories,
apparel and shoes.
At the end of 2017, Giorgio
Armani launched an excusive
capsule collection of the
cocktail outfits on Net-A-
Porter.
The chic and elegant
collection includes apparel,
shoes and accessories.
Chanel x Pharrell x adidas, a
three-way collaboration was
launched to celebrate the
closing of the Colette store.
Only 500 customers, who had
registered in advance, were
able to purchase the 1000€
pair of shoes at Colette.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
22
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIV Brands’ Collaborations
Bra
nd
& A
rtis
t
In December 2017, Dior released
its second edition of the ’Dior
Lady Art’. The brand asked 10
international artists all over the
world to reinterpret the iconic
handbag. The first edition of the
project was held in 2016.
Gucci teamed up with the
British artist, Helen Downie,
known as Unskilled Worker, for a
capsule collection of ready-to-
wear, shoes, bags, and
accessories. Helen also created
the visual materials for the PR
activities.
Sometimes the same artist can be a
point of reference for several brands.
Proenza Schouler cited Carmen
Herrera’s work in the Resort 2016
collection, while AKRIS collaborated
with the artist for the SS 2017
fashion show.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
23
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIV Brands’ Collaborations
Bra
nd
& C
ele
bri
ty
In December 2017, the
second collaboration between
Burberry and Kris Wu was
announced; the collection
created includes 19 pieces.
The singer also wrote a new
song about his experience
with the brand.
Rihanna and Chopard came up
with a capsule collection
inspired by Rihanna’s
hometown Barbados. The
collaboration resulted in two
collections: joaillerie collection
and haute joaillerie collection.
Gigi Hadid and Stuart
Weitzman have collaborated
again for the exclusive shoe
collection. All the money from
the sales would finance the
Pencils of Promise
organization that builds
schools and trains teachers.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
24
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryV Socially Responsible Business
Social responsibility in business or corporate social responsibility (CSR) pertains to people and
organizations behaving and conducting business ethically and with sensitivity towards social, cultural,
economic, and environmental issues. Striving for social responsibility helps individuals, organizations, and
governments have a positive impact on development, business, and society.
Corporate Social Responsibility Trends To Look For In 2018
Source: Forbes.com
The beginning of the end of workplace harassment and inequality
Expanding the diverse conversation
Focused and forward-thinking brand activism
A shift from disaster recovery to climate resilience
More CSR in the C-Suite
Higher standards for suppliers
Prioritizing privacy and data protection
The blockchain will revolutionize CSR
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
25
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryV Socially Responsible Business
Towards the global environment
Towards the society
& business partners
Towards employees
& customers
• In 2016, Timberland planted 500,000 trees around the globe, working toward a goalof 10 million trees planted by 2020. The company has planted 9.2 million treessince 2001.
•Every time The Body Shop develops a new formula for launch, the company calculates its biodegradability and water footprint.
•The fashion companies are starting the social movements to increase anawareness of certain problems, e.g. #TiedTogether by Valentino.
•LVMH has introduced tests to prevent discrimination during recruitment,continuously monitoring whether commitments to job applicants are respected.
•Timberland launched Worker Well-being, a program to improve the lives of apparelworkers outside the factory walls.
•The fashion brands are launching the special products and indirectly attract the customers to the charity actions, e.g. For every piece sold from the Bulgari’s Save the Children jewellery collection, a part of the proceeds is donated.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
26
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryV Socially Responsible Business
Source: kpmg.com
Governments, regulators and stock exchanges continue to play a key role in driving up CR reporting
rates around the world. Countries which have experienced the greatest increases in reporting since
2015 - Mexico (+32 percentage points), New Zealand (+17 percentage points) and Taiwan (+11
percentage points).
National rates of CR reporting, 2015 and 2017. Countries with CR reporting rate higher than 90%
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
27
Major Trends in Fashion IndustryV Socially Responsible Business
Millennials represent the consumer market of the future and drive brands to practice Socially
Responsible marketing. What do they ask for?
Source: Forbes.com
They want companies to be actively invested in the betterment of society and the solution of social
problems.
They want companies that prioritize “making an impact” on the world around them.
They want companies to be open and honest about their efforts — and to be public about their pro-
social initiatives.
Millennials want companies to involve their customers in their good work. They want an
opportunity to give back — whether it is with a gift of their time or their money.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
28
Fashion Tech
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
29
Fashion TechFashion Industry in Numbers
1 in every 6 people work in fashion
There are around 40 Mln garment
factory workers in the worldChina is the world's largest apparel
exporter, followed by Bangladesh
On an average, workers in Bangladesh earn 2 USD per day
Today we purchase 80 Bln pieces of new clothing each year
400% more than two decades ago
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
30
Fashion Tech
Source: Factmr.com, Prnewswire.com
The Worldwide
Smart Fashion
Market is expected
to reach $2939 Mln
by 2022, growing
at a CAGR of
117% during the
forecast period
2016-2022. The
USA is the biggest
driver of the smart
fashion.
The smart clothes market
is segmented into T-shirts,
underwear, socks, jackets,
shoes, and others. T-shirts
and pants will hold the
majority of the share,
expected to reach $1074
Mln by 2022.
The smart accessories
market is segmented into
jewelry, bags, wallets, and
others. The jewelry accounts
for the majority of the
market, expected to
reach $89 Mln by 2022,
growing at a CAGR of 118%
Smart Fashion Market
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
31
Fashion TechFashion Retail
Source: Bain Company
Today, 70% of
luxury purchases
are influenced by
online channels, it
means that at least
one digital
interaction has
taken place with
the brand or the
product before the
purchases.
2017
2025
Fashion Retail
Offline 92% Online 8%
Offline 75% Online 25%
By 2025, online and monobrand stores will become the two
largest channels for luxury sales
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
32
Fashion TechNew Reality For Fashion Industry
The new inventions disrupted the traditional fashion industry, making way for the fusion of
technology into fashion.
The new platforms have also led to the mix-match of customer retail experiences leveraging on
the technology of Artificial Intelligence (AI), Virtual Reality (VR), and
Augmented Reality (AR).
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
33
Fashion TechTraditional Fashion Process
Raw MaterialsMix of natural and synthetic fibers
IdeationBased on the creativity of the designer
ManufacturingUse of manpower and machines
ProductSimple, single purpose products
DeliveryCourier services
RetailE-commerce and physical stores
The traditional fashion process involves
the human touch through every step. Only
in textile and clothing industry
employed more than 58 Mln people, an
increase by 32 Mln employees from 2000’.
The initialization of the process is through
the designer’s creativity or available raw
materials. There is no direct
involvement of the consumer or
backward information flow through the
processes to better evaluate the
decisions. Source: ilo.org
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
34
Fashion TechNew Age Fashion Process
Raw MaterialsComplex and scientifically created
IdeationRational creativity based on Big Data
ManufacturingGrowing automation, reduction of human labor
ProductConnected and tech infused
Delivery Advanced, instant,
with automated solutions
Phygital Retail connecting physical and
digital retail experiences
The new age fashion process is swiftly
moving towards automation and reduction
of human touch. 51% of the tasks will
be automated in 2055 with
manufacturing and retailing being the
most affected. Big Data leads to a more
connected flow of information happens
across the processes and
companies. New products are initiated
after analysis of market demands. The
consumer is the main focus of every
process. This leads to a better informed
and calculated decision making process.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
35
Innovation in Fabrics
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
36
Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Then and To Be
Traditionally the process of acquiring
fabrics included a gradual process. With
naturally acquired fibers like wool and
leather, such elaboration of the natural
fibers is very time-consuming.
The fabrics had restrictive capacities and
dictated the creativity process of the
designer. The designer was bound to make
decisions while incorporating the
availability and limitation of the raw
material.
THEN TO BE
The modern fabric creation process is an
innovative hybrid between the existing
methods and technological systems.
The process is more complex but with
immense possibilities and capabilities.
The designer now has the creative
freedom to expand the horizons of
traditional designing due to the availability
of fabrics that are “smarter” and can
perform multiple functions.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
37
Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: E-Textile
One of the newest additions of textiles is
electronic textiles E-textiles. The E-textiles are
based on the integration of inherently
electrically or electronically active fibers into
textiles, being either cotton, polyester, nylon or
even advanced fabrics as Kevlar.
The E-textiles rely on combining the fabrics with
the electronically active fibers, therein allowing for
the use of connectivity and conduction, making it
possible to have stretchable electronics, for
energy harvesting, energy storage or even
memory.
Active FibresConducting Clothing
Textile Fusions
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
38
Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Magnetic Fabrics
A different type of smart fabric, still under
development by the University of Washington, is
magnetic fabric. The fabric is created such that
it can store data as security codes to
identification tags, without the need of attached
electronic devices or sensors.
The approach leverages magnetic properties
from “traditional” off-the-shelf conductive thread
in textiles. The stored data is kept in the fabric,
where the data can be read using an instrument
embedded in existing smartphones to enable
navigation apps.Magnetic Thread
Wearable Tech Information Storage
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
39
Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Google Jacquard
Jacquard by Google fabric can be woven into
the fabric of one's clothes, and herein
connect to the digital life of the user instantly
and effortlessly through an app.
The fabric offers a New Field Communication
(NFC). Currently the Jacquard fabric by Google is
focused on the convenience of the urban life, as
for now it is able to communicate and can handle
calls and texts, navigate through areas and
control the wearers music.
Smart Fabric
Touch Sensitive
Conducting fibers
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
40
Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Touch Sensitive
A different take on the E-textiles comes from the
company Loomia, a 3-year-old Brooklyn-based
startup, which makes a fabric layer that has
electrical components built as thin and flexible as
nylon. Loomia's fabrics are touch-sensitive
and can heat up and emit light.
Loomia created an ultra-thin, almost weightless
textile layer with built-in electronic circuits. The
layer connects to a slim battery, called the
Loomia Tile, which powers the garment.
Loomia's fabrics have sensors which collect data
about temperature, motion, or frequency of wear,
and then store it in the Loomia Tile.In-fiber sensors
Power connected
Electronic layer
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
41
Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Wearable Sensors
E-textiles also allows a more fashionable use.
‘Twenty Four 15’ is the fashion brand for the
digital generation because of technology is in its
DNA. Currently the brand offers a line of app-
connected, fiber optic, color-changing
apparel.
The products are connected via Bluetooth to an
app that controls the LED lights otherwise
embedded in them. There is a color wheel to shift
the shade of the lights and a music feature that
lets the user synchronize them so they also
animate to the beat.
Color changingApp connected
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
42
Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Pros & Cons
PROS CONS
Re-thinking of the clothing design.
Stretches the scope of innovation for
fashion.
Transformation and opening up the
scope of fabric utility.
Enhance convenience for the final
users.
Induces sustainability and reduction in
wastage due to multipurpose and
resistant fabrics.
Design could be restricted due to
components of the fabric.
Potential dangers of making the
garment risky for the final user.
Limitations due to possible wear and
tear uncertainties.
Unknowns with health and safety on
long-term use of e-textiles.
Recycle uncertainties of garments and
waste materials.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
43
Innovation in Design
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
44
Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Then and To Be
Design initially was purely based on the
person’s creative vision or ready trends
formed in the market. This meant that the
consumer most often were disregarded
from the ideation.
As the design process failed to take into
consideration the consumer point of view, it
showed a one way interaction, with the
designer ruling the process and trying to
create a need, rather than addressing one.
THEN TO BE
With the availability of Big Data, the
fashion brands can design new products
while keeping the consumer on the
forefront and turn the process into a two-
way communication, where the brand
interacts with the final consumer.
Based on the data about physical
parameters of a customer and his/her taste
the brand can create customized products
with industrial speed.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
45
Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Google Tilt Brush
With the swipe of a digital brush users can paint
life-sized, three dimensional strokes, important to
wear a connected HTC Vive or Oculus Rift
headset.
The Google Tilt Brush has the potential to drive
change in the fashion industry, because
illustrators can paint with textured fabrics
such as denim, silk and cotton, as well as
leather. This can help designers to view their
work in progress from every angle and share it
with Tilt brush users around the globe to get a full
understanding of the creation and response of
the audience.
3D sketching
Real time ideationDynamic Painting
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
46
Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Ivyrevel & Google
Google teamed up with H&M’s digital fashion
house Ivyrevel on a project dubbed “Coded
Couture”.
The Awareness API by Google daily monitors
the user’s activity with a goal to create a
custom-made Data Dress, which is possible to
buy through the Ivyrevel app. All the data is
analyzed to take the conditions, wearer and
occasions into consideration. For example, the
material will be selected based on weather data
like the temperature and the fit will be based on
the wearer’s activity level. Behaviour tracking
PersonalizationData driven design
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Design: NikeLab
NikeLab has developed the Nike Advanced
Apparel Exploration 1.0 collection. Having the
outline of trajectory tracking of the body’s
function and motion, the Nike is offering
base-layer and mid-layer garments where the
focus is on the user and the environmental
impact from the scenarios when the garments are
used.
By analyzing digital body maps, with lifestyle
parameter as a cling map, airflow map, sweat
map and heat map gathered with Big Data
analytics, Nike is able to make a shirt taking a lot
of variables from different environments into
account.
Computation approach
Big DataBody tracking
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Amazon Algorithmic Design
Amazon is working on the algorithm that is able
to design clothing by analyzing images and by
finding common denominators in the fashion
trends. This could mean spotting a particular
trend on Instagram or on its own collection of
fashion imagery.
This means that potentially algorithmic designer
can pick up subconscious trends that have not
been elaborated upon yet, and quickly design a
new product. Moreover, Amazon has patented
an automated on-demand clothing factory,
where the first phase is sale, not production for
the future sales. Amazon’s on-demand clothing factory
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Pros & Cons
PROS CONS
Better understanding of consumer preferences
and latent needs.
Greater involvement of customers into designing
and production.
Market oriented approach.
Faster and more responsive to changing
conditions.
Flexibility in scaling of the operations.
Reduces design and prototyping lead times and
waste, more sustainable approach of business.
Loss of human creativity.
Predominance of data analysis over
creativity.
Risk to have very similar products on
the market, due to the analysis of
common data/trends.
Heavy dependence on data:
quantitative and qualitative.
Risk to miscalculate the customer
parameters due to the system errors.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Innovation in Production
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Then and To Be
An era of limitations and complete
reliability on human capabilities and skill
sets, the manufacturing process is tedious
and time-consuming.
At the same time, the market conditions
push the companies to shorten the lead
time from the design and production
phases to the product availability in
customers' hands.
THEN TO BE
Replacing human reliability with major
automation, the manufacturing process
seems to be more efficient. The lead
times between the design and
manufacturing have reduced to a
fraction, making the notion of ‘see now
buy now’ more achievable. The new age
techniques reduce wastage and overall
costs, also providing greater capacity of
mass production.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: SewBo
The Seattle based company, SewBo developed
an industrial robot to sew together a T-shirt.
The robot uses stiffened fabrics by drenching
them in liquid polymers, as this turns it into
temporary thermoplastic composites, and then
can be treated like hard materials so the robots
can handle the garments. In order to put the t-
shirt back into its soft state, the finished garments
in then drenched in hot water, which dissolves the
layer of liquid polymer, making the finished
product usable.Liquid polymer
T-shirt production
Robotic Sewing
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: SoftWare Automation
SoftWare Automation registered a Sewbots as a
trademark for the fully automated manufacturing.
Sewbots work with the fabrics on a flat horizontal
surface using cameras to map the fabric and
robots to steer it through the sewing needles.
The Sewbot can produce a T-shirt just in 22
seconds, adidas is planning to produce 800 000
T-shirts per day via SoftWear Automation at
Tianyuan Garments Company, of Suzhou, China.
Fabric mapping via camerasT-shirt production
Robotic sewing machines
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Kniterate
The startup Kniterate offers an affordable and
compact digital knitting machine for smaller
productions and less technical expertise.
Kniterate turns digital designs into knitted
garments automatically. This simplifies the
process of designing and allows to go from an
idea for a product within a few minutes.
Small scale business
Customized production
Digital knitting
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Marc Cain 3D Knitting
German based company, Marc Cain for the SS17
show presented innovative pullovers which were
knit in one step and with the special inkjet print.
The machine is able to create pullovers,
knitted jackets and skirts completely without
seams by the means of a special 3D knitting
process. The entire process avoids having to
send the merchandise to sewing factories, thus
saving the time for production and reduce impact
on the environment.
Seamless production
3D Knitting
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: New Balance 3D Printing
New Balance created the midsoles for running
shoes by using laser sintering powder
created from an Elastomer composite. The
company is using selective laser sintering (SLS),
a process which converts the powder material
into solid cross-sections, layer by layer, using a
laser.
The whole process goes from mixing the
thermoplastic powders with additives to optimize
performance of the end product, while the design
is on files and prepared for the midsoles through
3D renderings.
Flexible & durable
Thermoplastic powder
3D Printing
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: adidas Speedfactory
In October 2017 adidas announced the first major
project to be created at its SPEEDFACTORY
facility in Ansbach, Germany.
adidas Made For London (AM4LDN) shoe is first
in a series of individually designed and
manufactured shoes adidas will release in six
key cities around the world. SPEEDFACTORY
will allow for consumers to benefit from state-of-
the-art manufacturing processes that allow
adidas to create truly tailored product solutions
with unprecedented speed, thanks to in market
automated production.
Purpose-built productsIndividual design
Data-driven design
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Pros & Cons
PROS CONS
Shorter production cycles, cost effective
processes, reduction in wastage.
Possibility of producing on demand,
reducing the risks of market
uncertainties.
Customization as per the consumer
needs and market trends.
Makes way for smaller designers to
compete in the industry.
Increased production capacity at lower
costs.
High investments.
Loss of employment opportunities.
Limitations in the scope of transforming
actual designs into final product.
Possible Environmental hazards.
Easy duplication and counterfeiting of
products.
Increased competition from new entrant,
with easier production.
Higher cost of errors through production.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Smart Products
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Fashion TechProducts: Then and To Be
Traditionally, fashion accessories and
garments were restricted to a single
dimension of functionality. They were
simple, made of natural or synthetic fibers
that were cultivated over time.
The products served the purposes of
functionality (cover up, provide warmth,
etc.) with the touch of self-expression and
beauty.
THEN TO BE
The new development in fiber construction
has given rise to more complex raw
materials. These materials, when used in
garments, enhance the functionality of
the products making it “smarter” and
multidimensional.
The functionality of the product now is not
restricted to the basics anymore. The
clothing and accessories are now more
inter-linked to the wide base of technology.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Safilo & InteraXon Brain Sensing Eyewear
Safilo in collaboration with brain sensing
company, InteraXon developed a pair of
sunglasses for personalized data tracking. The
product was launched under the Smith brand and
named Smith Lowdown Focus mpowered by
Muse.
The integrated brain-sensing EEG technology in
the Lowdown Focus eyewear provides visual
feedback on your brain’s activity level so you can
learn how to control your focus. The products is
synchronized with Smith Focus App featuring 3
programs to specifically target cognitive
performance. Conductive materials
Focus measurement
Cognitive-training eyewear
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Hussein Chalayan & Intel
Hussein Chalayan and Intel presented the
sunglasses that pick up biosensing data such
as fear and stress. In the product was installed
the Intel Curie module which is a button sized
tech that can be incorporated in multiple
products. The glasses also used Bluetooth
technology to measure EEG signals in the
brain, and a sensor for the heart and pulse
rates.
These sunglasses were used on the runway to
track models emotions at different points of the
shows which were transformed into the abstract
images on a projector via special belt powered by
an Intel Compute Stick.
Responsive fashionEmotion tracking
Biosensing data
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon
Louis Vuitton Tambur Horizon smartwatch rely on
Google Android Wear 2.0 and Qualcomm
Technologies, while the case is made at Louis
Vuitton. Via the smartwatch it is possible to check
incoming calls, mails, receive information on flight
times, and even to have a city guide that covers
seven of the world’s major cities to detect a
wearer’s location and makes recommendations
on nearby restaurants, hotels and landmarks.
In selected countries and stores, the Tambour
Horizon watch now features contactless
payments, Android Pay and Alipay services.Contactless payments
The city guides application
Personalized smart watches
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Tag Heuer Connected Modular
The TAG Heuer Connected Modular by
Android Wear and engineered in collaboration
with Intel. Tag Heuer provides more than 60
models, every client can decide the size, color,
material, horns, etc. as per his/her personal taste.
Tag Heuer Connected watch gives the possibility
to manage the notifications, access your favorite
apps, translator, weather, maps and also covers
other basic features like timer, alarm, and
stopwatch. The watch can be paired with a
smartphone. Google & Intel technologyModular design
Tailored smart watches
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Kate Spade Charging Bag
In collaboration with Everpurse, Kate Spade
launched a special collection of bags that can
charge the iPhone, wire-free and on the go.
In the lining of the bag there is a charging pocket,
where the phone will connect and can be
charged. And in order to charge the battery pack
in the bag itself it is necessary to use the
charging mat, simply by placing the bag on top of
the mat and therein it connects remotely.
Wireless connection
Technology embedding
Charging bag
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Digitsole Smartshoe
Being described as the world’s first intelligent
footwear, the Smartshoe is able to loosen and
tighten itself via the app as well as count
calories and distance travelled.
The shoe tracks and stores the distance; the
calories, step size, posture and impact force of
the wearer, but also control the integrated heating
of the shoe, which comes from the special
developed heating sole. The entire control of the
shoe is happening via the app, as well as walking
pattern analysis and real-time analytics.
Auto-tighteningShock absorbing
Intelligent sneaker
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: IOFIT by Samsung Electronics
The Samsung Electronics spinoff startup
developed and presented a smart shoe, IOFIT.
The IOFIT shoe is able to support the wearer
with in-depth analysis and tracking of the
pressure by certain exercises either within
sports and weightlifting or even in golf
swings. The data and control is connected to an
app, where it’s possible to see, retrieve and
analyze the information.
A combination of pressure sensors and the
coaching app also help to improve a user’s
balance and body posture to enhance one’s
fitness routine. Coaching app
Pressure sensors
Posture measuring
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Levi's & Google Trucker Jacket
Levi's® and Google created the newest in
wearable technology - the Levi's Commuter™ x
Jacquard by Google Trucker Jacket.
A smart sleeve allows the wearer to control
their smartphone by swiping the left cuff of
the jacket sleeve.
With the Levi’s Commuter jacket it is possible to
hear who incoming texts are from, have these
text read to you and send calls to voicemail to
listen to later. It is also possible to navigate the
city by getting turn reminders and play the music
without slowing down to grab the phone.Music control
Jacquard by GoogleTouch sensitive
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Emel and Aris Heating Coat
The smart coat collection Emel and Aris means
high-quality formal and informal coats that, with
the touch of a button, provide extra heat. The
heating technology is made from a specially
formulated lightweight polymer that is inert. It
produces far infrared (FIR) heat energy that is
absorbed by the skin to heat the muscles and
increase blood flow. Safe and self-regulating it
conducts heat uniformly which means it cannot
overheat or produce hotspots and therefore
cannot burn.
There is a short cable that connects the battery to
the coat, that’s all the wiring there is.
Battery connected
Temperature control
Heat Technology
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechSmart Products: Pros & Cons
PROS CONS
Aimed to solve problems associated
with the daily lives.
Multiple functions to one garment.
An opportunity to get more personalized
solutions with use of sensors and
trackers.
Remain connected to your preferred
devices in a more convenient way.
Enhancing human abilities through data
and performance.
Possible harm because of the unknowns
in long-term use.
Short life-span of the technology
embedded in the garments, e.g.
functionality can decrease after washes.
The rising concern of data security.
Environmental impact with disposal of
the clothing at the end of its Life Cycle.
A move towards complete technological
dependency.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Innovation in Delivery
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Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Then and To Be
With a major reliability on human labour,
the delivery process is time consuming and
an not always efficient. Accessibility to
certain geographies was even more
tedious. Logistics was one of the major
processes handled by outside agencies.
Which meant no control of the brand on
the activities. The consumer was hesitant
to trust brands due to the gap in order
placement and order fulfilment which was
also the cause of the slow growth of the e-
commerce expansion efforts.
THEN TO BE
The retailers are now able to serve
consumers in a matter of minutes without
almost any geographical restrictions. Most
logistics companies are working towards
solutions like drone delivery, robots and
self-driving cars to make the process
more efficient and serve the consumers
need for instant gratification.
Many companies are also investing in
technology that can help them take
complete control over the logistic process.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: JD.com Drone Delivery
JD.com is the largest online retailer in China.
Serving over 235 million customers the company
has a vast network of warehouses and delivery
stations, and deliver most orders in less than a
day. The one-of-a-kind drone network helps to
deliver the orders to hard to reach areas.
The JD drones can carry up to 33 pounds of
weight and travel up to 12 miles at speeds up to
34 mph and handle moderate rains and wind.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: JD.com Autonomous Delivery Robots
JD.com also introduced a robot delivery service,
currently being tested at universities around
China. JDRover, a Jetson robots powered by
NVIDIA can easily navigate through crowded
streets to deliver packages to customers that
have purchased items through JD.com’s online
mall.
The launch of the robot delivery service combines
small, self-driving robot vehicles with smart locks
and secure storage. The customer can retrieve
the package, by opening the robot via QR
code.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: JD.com Autonomous Delivery Vehicles
JD.com also partnered with automotive
manufacturer SAIC Maxus Automotive Co., Ltd.,
and Dongfeng Motor Corp. to conduct research
into the use of autonomous vans in deliveries.
Fitted with radar, sensor and positioning system,
vans are being tested to go from the distribution
center of JD.com and deliver to urban delivery
stations and bulk deliveries to offices and
residential areas in cities. The vans have
conducted successful tests of the
autonomous route planning, overtaking,
obstacle avoidance and self-parking
functions.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Hermes Logistics, Autonomous Delivery Robots
Hermes, a provider of the international logistics
services to the retail industry, in collaboration with
Starship Technologies released the autonomous
delivery robots for parcels collections and
deliveries.
The robots are small, six-wheeled vehicles
trundling along at 4mph and pose significantly
less threat than a drone. Also the delivery robots
have a sophisticated obstacle detection
system, which allows them to build a picture
of the area around them and create a “bubble
of awareness”. Sophisticated sensors help them
avoid people and to cross roads when it’s safe to
do so.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Amazon Prime Air service
Amazon Prime Air is a service that will deliver
packages up to five pounds in 30 minutes or less
using small drones. The vehicles are built with
multiple redundancies, as well as sophisticated
“sense and avoid” technology.
The company has filed for a patent for “multi-
level fulfillment centers” that would
accommodate the landing and takeoff of
drones in dense urban settings.
In 2017 Amazon also has filed a patent for a
self-driving airship that can store inventory and
be used as a base to launch delivery drones.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Pros & Cons
PROS CONS
Less dependence on humans, eliminating
errors and increasing efficiency.
More flexible delivery to suit the customer
requirements.
Elimination of geographical limitations.
Faster delivery times with reduction in the
gap between order placement and receipt.
Ability to offer cheaper delivery options.
High development requirements and
costs.
Hazards of autonomous vehicles on the
streets, as they may be a danger to
people.
Full dependency on technology in case of
errors.
Still at a relative early state in deployment.
Governments are still being cautious
granting permissions for drones.
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Future of the Fashion Industry
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Future of the Fashion Industry
The United States sees
immediate savings of 180,000
from sewbots over 5 yearsOne company replaced 3 workers with the
pair of sewbots
Textile and Clothing workers at risk
of joblessness because of
automation
64% in Indonesia
86% in Vietnam
88% in Cambodia
Source: International Labour Organization
The technology can increase labour
productivity, product quality and
reduce waste
One Chinese manufacturer invested US$500,000 in
a digital printer which prints 30 metre lengths of
cloth in 1 minute. The printer reduced the
workload of 8 people down to 3 and allows sales of
US161 Mln to be achieved with maximum 300 workers
Modern technology will increase the demand for skilled workers
knowledgeable in operating new machines and computer software
Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi
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Future of the Fashion Industry
Stitchless or non-sewing technology
which involves a special type of glue
reduce the production time by 25%-35%
“3D printing and robotic technology will
help up set the scene for large-scale
commercial production so each consumer
can locally get what they want faster than
ever.” Gerd Manz, Vice President of
Technology Innovation, adidas.
“Custom-made clothing
is going to be a big thing.
Consumers will be able
to scan their own body at
home and send a scan to
their favorite brand and
make custom clothing
from it.” Roger Lee, CEO,
TAL Apparel Group
Brook Brothers launched the service of Digital Tailoring which takes 3D image of
the body in just 12 seconds yielding hundreds of measurements that are
electronically transmitted to the factory where a personalized pattern is made
specifically for a single customer.
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...
• TBC
June 2018
innovationdiscovery@intesasanpaolo.com
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