SHIPS BIG & SMALL • OCEAN, ADVENTURE & RIVER CRUISING • BEST HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS

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ISSUE 48, WINTER 2012AUS $9.95 (inc GST) PP255003/07360

ISSN 1445 4180

NEW SHIPS• OCEANIA RIVIERA• VIKING LONGSHIPS• DISNEY FANTASY

ESCAPE• HAWAII’S ISLANDS• EXOTIC INDIA • QUEENSLAND COAST

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Visit Hawaii on an intimate small-ship cruise for close encounters with

authentic local culture and giant manta rays.

Safari Explorer

Halawa Bay, Molokai

T The world’s most remote island archipelago is a natural magnet for cruise vessels. Ships of all sizes are deployed to explore the staggering array of natural and cultural attractions throughout the islands. With everything from dramatic active volcanoes and breathtaking scenery to amazing aquatic life and rich cultural experiences, Hawaii is a lay-down misère for small-ship and adventure cruise ship possibilities. Yet it is only now receiving the attention it deserves from expedition-style operators.

Enter American Safari Cruises, which flagged itineraries some years back but was unsettled by the GFC speed bump. Only now is the company’s new itinerary being revealed. In tandem with new sister brand InnerSea Discoveries, the sibling fleets now consist of seven vessels, the largest carrying just 86 passengers, with several of those vessels acquired after the demise of former competitor Cruise West.

The company has chosen its flagship, the perfectly suited 36-passenger Safari Explorer, for Hawaiian duties. While she may not look like James Bond’s latest plaything, Safari Explorer is an ideal choice for low-impact, eco-sensitive excursions around the craggy mid-ocean coastline of the Hawaiian Isles’ more remote, less-visited islands, such as Molokini, Lanai and Molokai.

She is equipped with twin RIB tenders, a hot tub and kayaks; her cabins are located on three decks and range from ‘standard’ master staterooms through to larger Commander (two), Captain and Admiral (three) class and two Commodore suites.

Dining is single sitting, with varied menus incorporating local produce wherever it’s available. The food is always good, though not always great, and portion sizes are definitely aimed at healthy eaters. Wine, spirits and beer are included in the fare and are available at all times, not just with meals.

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The seven-night itinerary takes you from Maui to Kona on the Big Island, and back again. Guests can expect to see spinner dolphins (naia), rays and green sea turtles (honu) throughout the trip and humpback whales (kohola) in season (late December to early May). Shore excursions include strolls through local markets, villages and scenic attractions, often with active options such as golf, scuba diving and, on Lanai, horseriding.

There are plenty of opportunities to get into the water, with snorkelling in the warm, clear waters offered throughout the journey. Scuba divers can get their fix with signature dives on Lanai through local operator Trilogy Ocean Sports, the only full-service dive shop on the island.

Without argument, the most memorable underwater experience here is the Kona manta ray night dive, which is offered in conjunction with a local dive operator. The experience is not to be underrated and many, including this writer, place it right up there with any wildlife encounter you can have on the planet.

Well after sundown, guests are ferried to a location just off the Kona coast. Floating floodlights illuminate the ocean and masses of plankton swarm beneath. With snorkellers bobbing on the surface and divers clinging

wildlife

Lawrence Kalainia Kamani Aki (right)

Bar, Safari ExplorerEnjoying macadamia nuts on Molokai

Halawa Valley, Molokai

Dolphin watching

to gnarly outcrops 10 metres below, the scene is set. As divers wave their powerful LED beams around in search of the elusive rays, they swoop in suddenly like dive bombers, giant mouths agape, scooping up food as they twirl and twist in the shafts of light. Great Pacific mantas can grow to considerable size and the performers in our submarine ballet easily measured three metres across. It’s a disconcerting feeling when a huge ray appears to target you, then pulls away at the last split-second.

From a cultural perspective, the resurgent aloha culture on the island of Molokai gives an intriguing insight into the origins of this complex Polynesian civilisation. During a shore excursion to the lush Halawa Valley, guests meet local elders and engage in hands-on activities that represent the core of the spiritual belief.

Aloha is generally understood to mean ‘hello’ in Hawaiian, but the word’s true meaning has been diluted since the arrival of Europeans.

Lawrence Kalainia Kamani Aki, a 50th-generation resident, is one of the most prominent elders of Molokai. He exudes what Polynesians refer to as mana; Westerners would call him charismatic. With palpable authority, Lawrence welcomes our group to his spiritual retreat in

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RivieraOCEANIA CRUISES IS PROUD TO LAUNCH

Riviera sets new cruise industry standards, with elegantly appointed and custom-crafted accommodations that are among the most spacious at sea. Specifically designed for lovers of fine food and wine, Riviera will boast an array of stylish bars and lounges and 10 dining venues – six of which are open-seating gourmet restaurants – including Jacques, the restaurant at sea for Jacques Pépin all at no extra charge. Other enhancements include a Bon Appétit Culinary Center – the only hands-on cooking school at sea – and La Reserve by Wine Spectator, where guests may immerse themselves in the culture

and nuances of wine appreciation or indulge in a seven-course pairing dinner.

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To book, contact your local Travellers Choice agent

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* TERMS & CONDITIONS APPLY

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highs

fact file

lOWs

• Manta ray dive on Kona rates as amazing.

• Excellent staff and guides.• Wine library.

• Tipping policy (5 to 10 per cent of the cruise fare, per person, is suggested).

Cruise line: American Safari CruisesVessel: Safari Explorerpassenger CapaCiTy: 36 (double occupancy)ToTal Crew: 18passenger deCks: 3lengTh: 44 metresgrT: 97 tonsenTered serViCe: Built in 1998; renovated in 2008

FaCiliTies: All cabins have flatscreen TV/ DVD players, iPod/iPhone docking stations and personal safes. The ship has an all-inclusive bar, library, massage therapist, lounge, sundeck, jacuzzi, kayaks, paddleboards, fishing gear, hiking poles, yoga mats, snorkelling equipment.

bOOkingsRates begin at $4,995 per person, double occupancy, and include all meals and alcohol on board, transfers and most excursions. Extras: some optional excursions (eg, diving and golf ). For more information call Ultimate Cruising on 1300 662 943 or visit www.ultimatecruising.com.au.

the ancient Halawa Valley, one of the first locations in the Hawaiian Islands to be settled by the newly arrived Polynesians some 1,500 years ago.

“We have an ancestral responsibility to preserve and maintain our ancient culture and the true meaning of aloha,” says Lawrence, his earnest gaze sweeping the small audience like that of a true orator. “Aloha stands for love, passion and friendship and is part of everything that surrounds us and forms our daily lives.”

Molokai is both an anomaly and an anachronism among the Hawaiian Islands. With scornful eyes cast towards the rampant tourism on Oahu, Molokai residents are adamant their paradise will not fall into what they see as corrupt decline. There is some division among residents about how best to do this, with one group lobbying for the total exclusion of tourists.

To this particular group, admitting cruise ships to the island is considered sacrilege. As a consequence, cruise itineraries were interrupted for a while, but an amicable settlement has since been reached and the continuation of American Safari Cruises’ respectful, ultra-low-impact visits is assured.

Taking you beyond the trinket stalls and gaudy tourist traps, the ‘Hawaiian Seascapes’ itinerary is much more than just a cruise; it’s a true exploration away from the overworked haunts of Waikiki and Honolulu and into the authentic Hawaii of romantic Polynesian culture.

Aloha!

Manta ray night dive

wildlife