all things pruning

2/21/2013

1

extension.usu.edu

All Things Pruning…

JayDee GunnellAssociate Professor

Salt Lake County Extension

Utah State University

extension.usu.edu

The Four W’s

When is the best time?

Why do we prune?

What do we prune off?

Where do we make the cuts?

extension.usu.edu

What to use…

Saw – 2”+ large branches

Hand Pruners – ½”-1” branches

Loppers – 1 ½” branches

extension.usu.edu

When to Prune?-Trees & Shrubs-

Winter or early spring is best

-Easy to see the form

-Plants are dormant

Shrubs that bloom before June 1st

-Prune after bloom

Forsythia, Lilac, Mock Orange

General rule of thumb:

You can prune in any month that doesn’t end in “R”

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Shrubs

extension.usu.edu

Prune Anytime…D-D-D

• Dead

• Broken

• Diseased

• Hanging

• Crossing / Rubbing

• Water-sprouts

2/21/2013

2

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Language

• Telling a plant where to go.

What language are you using?

*@?!!#*!!!

extension.usu.edu

Nodes and Internodes

-Nodes - points where buds, leaves or twigs attach to stems

-Internodes - stem portions between nodes

Internode

Nodes

Internode Internode

extension.usu.edu

Working with Nature

• Apical Dominance…

Suppressing hormones produced by terminal buds-Terminal bud (king)

-Lateral buds (simpletons)

extension.usu.edu

Two Basic Pruning Cuts

1- Heading cuts

-“Iffy” language

-Done at internodes

-Forces lateral growth

-Topping (hat-racking)

-Sheering

extension.usu.edu

Topping / Hat-racking

Very damaging-Causes:

-Water sprouts

-Weak angles

-Decay

extension.usu.edu

2/21/2013

3

extension.usu.edu extension.usu.edu

Don’t Leave Stubs!

extension.usu.edu

Two Basic Pruning Cuts

2- Thinning cuts

-“Nicer” language

-At the node

-Total branch removal

-drop crotch

-directional pruning

extension.usu.edu

Natural Target Pruning

Correct

IncorrectBranch Bark Ridge

Branch Collar

Correct

extension.usu.edu


Branch Collar

Branch BarkRidge

Branch Removal

Top Removal(Drop Crotching)

Good Pruning Cuts

Bottom of Cut Straight Across

from BBR

-Leave branch bark ridge-Leave branch collar-No stubs-No flush cuts

extension.usu.edu


Branch Collar

Branch BarkRidge

Branch Removal

Bottom of Cut Straight Across

from BBR

Top Removal(Drop Crotching)

2/21/2013

4

extension.usu.edu

1

2

3

extension.usu.edu



Pruning “Donuts”

2/21/2013

5

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Don’ts

extension.usu.edu

Renewal Pruning-Large Shrubs-

• Increases new growth

• Remove 1/3 of the oldest canes– (to the ground)

• Reduce the length of branches– (no sheering)

extension.usu.edu

Rejuvenation Pruning-Large Shrubs-

• Neglected shrubs

• Cut shrub to the ground– extreme pruning

– may not grow back

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Evergreens

• Plant the right one!• Dead /Diseased /Broken• Three types of evergreens:

– Whorl-branched• Pine, spruce, fir• Only 1/3 of new candle

– Random-branched• Juniper, arborvitae, yew• Tolerate sheering

– Broad-leaf• Boxwood, Euonymus • Tolerate sheering

extension.usu.edu

Roses

• Most popular flowering shrub.

• All colors available (not black, true blue)

• Diversity– Size

– Shape

– Color

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Roses

• Pruning renews growth.• Pruning promotes blooms.• Prune ¼” above an

outside-facing bud.• Seal cuts with glue.• Timing depends on the

type of rose…

2/21/2013

6

extension.usu.edu

Hybrid T’s, Floribunda, Grandiflora & Miniatures

• Produce blooms on current seasons growth

• Need annual pruning

• Mid-April when buds swell

• Leave 3-5 canes, 12-18”

• Dead-heading –removing spent flowers, cut to the 1st 5 leaflet.

Floribundas and miniatures don’t need to be pruned as heavily as Hybrid T’s.

extension.usu.edu

extension.usu.edu

Climbing Roses• Leave alone for 2-3 years.

• Bloom on 1 year old wood

• Most are repeat bloomers.

• Prune early spring.

• Prune to fit trellis

• Leave 4-6 eye buds per lateral

• Only leave canes for 3 years.

extension.usu.edu

Rambler Roses

• Bloom on 2 year old wood

• Bloom one time per season

• Prune after they bloom (early summer)

• Leave 5-7 canes (un-pruned)

extension.usu.edu

Questions?

extension.usu.edu

General Requirements – Fruit treesSoil

-drainage (air & water)Water

-deep, infrequent watering.Fertilizer

-none at planting-generally only nitrogen is needed:

2-3 years old – ½ lb.4-8 years old – 1 lb.Mature trees – 2–3 lbs.

-at least 1 month before bloom time -according to shoot growth (best indicator)

2/21/2013

7

extension.usu.edu

Average Shoot Growth

Fruit Tree

Average Shoot Growth (in inches)

Young Trees (1-6yrs) Older Trees (over 6 yrs)

Apple, Dwarf & Semi-Dwarf 10-20" 4-8"

Apple, Standard & Spur-type 10-20" 6-10"

Peach, Nectarine & Apricot 10-24" 8-15"

Sour Cherry & Plum 10-20" 8-12"

*Pears do well with little to no fertilizer

extension.usu.edu

Fruit Pollination• Apples

Need cross pollination – similar bloom time• Pears

Need cross pollination • Cherries

Need cross pollination (Stella self-fruitful)• Plums

Vary greatly in pollination requirements• Peaches

Self-fruitful (except Hales)• Apricot

Self-fruitful

extension.usu.edu

Apple Pollination Chart

extension.usu.edu

Anatomy & Vocabulary

• Graft union– Scion

– Rootstock

• Leader

• Suckers

• Water sprouts

• Spurs

extension.usu.edu

ScionFruiting cultivar

Rootstock

extension.usu.edu

Why

To produce high quality fruit-Maximum solar exposure

To maintain fruiting wood-Reduce shading from interior

To tell a tree where to grow!

2/21/2013

8


When

-During the dormant season

-After the coldest part of winter

-Late February – bud swell

extension.usu.edu

Where to cut…

Heading cuts• shortening a branch or shoot

• encourages lateral growth

Thinning cuts• remove entire branch or shoot back to a lateral branch or

trunk

• directs growth

extension.usu.edu

extension.usu.edu

Pruning…as simple as 1,2,3

1- Clean up the dumb branches first-broken / diseased-rubbing -hangers-suckers -water-sprouts (early summer when 2-4”)

2- Know where the fruit grows

3- Let the light intraining systems

extension.usu.edu

Peaches

• Fruit on last years wood.

• 3 mixed buds

2 fruit buds

1 leaf bud

• Heavy annual pruning (50%)

Generally 12” shoot can produce 2 peaches

• Apricots, cherries and plums produce fruit anywhere.

2/21/2013

9


Delayed Open Vase(Peaches, Apricots, Nectarines, Japanese plums, Sour cherries)

• Select 3-4 primary scaffold branches

-45-60 degrees

-About 18-24” from the ground

-Evenly distributed in a whorl.

-6-8” apart vertically

• Remove any growth 6” from the trunk

• Allow 2 secondary scaffolds to form when primary scaffold are 4 feet long.

extension.usu.edu

Peach Tree - Before

extension.usu.edu

Peach Tree - After


2/21/2013

10


Apples & Pears

• Fruit on spurs that are 2-5 years old.

• Buds differentiate (mid June)-Alternating years

• Prune lighter once primary scaffolds are formed.


extension.usu.edu

Fruit Thinning – Why?

• Produces better quality fruit• Promotes annual bearing

– late May – Early June– after “June drop”– fruit = pea – dime size

1 peach every 5-6”1 apple every 5-6”

(every 2-4 spurs)

extension.usu.edu

2/21/2013

11

extension.usu.edu

• Select 4-5 primary scaffold branches-About 24-36” from the ground-Evenly distributed in a whorl.-4-6” apart vertically

• Head the terminal above where the 2nd scaffold will be.

• Select 3-4 primary scaffold branches-About 24” from the first whorl-4-6” apart vertically

• More horizontal branches control vigor.

• 45-60 degree angles are optimal

Modified Central Leader(Apples, European plums, Sweet cherries, Pears)

extension.usu.edu

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Unruly Trees

• Decision Time…

1 cut at ground level?

• Never prune more than 1/3 of the tree at one time.

• Don’t fertilize the tree during corrective pruning

extension.usu.edu

Berries

extension.usu.edu

Pruning GrapesFour-cane Kniffin System

Fruit is found on shoots growing from year old canes.

One main trunk trained to a 2 wire trellis system (24-30” apart)

4 canes (year old) – 10-15 buds on each cane or 40-60 per plant

• Each bud will form 2-3 grape clusters

Renewal spurs– 4 renewal spurs with 2 buds

– Next year’s fruiting wood

extension.usu.edu

2/21/2013

12

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Tips-Select canes that are 1/4” in diameter

– Avoid weak & “bull” canes

-Mark or tape the 4 “keepers” and tie them to wire first.

-Remove everything else!– (Except the renewal spurs)

*Correct pruning = removing 80-90% of the grape plant

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Raspberries

• Perennial roots

• Biennial canes– 1st year canes – primocanes

– 2nd year canes – floricanes

• Spread by suckering

• Two types of raspberries:• Summer-bearing

• Fall-bearing (ever-bearing)

extension.usu.edu

2 types of raspberries

Summer-bearingday-length sensitiveset flowers in fall, produce fruit next June /Julyfruit on floricanesthen they die

Fall-bearing (ever-bearing)not day-length sensitivefruit on primocanes (first fall, on the tips)fruit on floricanes (next summer, lower on cane)then they die

extension.usu.edu

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Summer-bearing Raspberries

Produce one crop in June/July

-Early spring (March-April)

-Remove dead / weak canes (winter damage)

-Thin healthy canes to 6” apart

-Remove spent canes after harvest

-Rotation between primocanes & floricanes

-Typically need support or trellised

extension.usu.edu*http://www.inberry.com/

2/21/2013

13

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Ever-bearing Raspberries

Two options

1- Produce 2 small crops June & August

2- Produce 1 large crop in August

extension.usu.edu


Two small crops (June & August)

-Early spring (March-April)-Remove dead / weak canes (winter damage) -Thin healthy canes to 6” apart

-Prune canes to 4-5’ (below fruited section) -Remove spent canes after harvest-Rotation between primocanes & floricanes

extension.usu.edu*http://www.inberry.com/

Ever

extension.usu.edu

extension.usu.edu


One large crop (August)

-Early spring (March-April)

-Mow everything down to 2-4”

-That’s it!!

extension.usu.edu

2/21/2013

14

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Blackberries

• Perennial crowns

• Biennial canes

• Don’t sucker like raspberries• Planted in a hill system

• Two basic types:• Erect / semi-erect

• Trailing

• Stems can be either…• thorny

• thornless

extension.usu.edu

Pruning Blackberries

• Canes cut back to 5-6 feet (mid summer)– Helps stiffen canes

– Induces lateral branching

– Laterals shortened to 12-16 inches

– Long laterals produce many small fruit



2/21/2013

15



extension.usu.edu

http://utahpests.usu.edu

extension.usu.edu

Questions?

2/21/2013

16

extension.usu.edu

The Top 5 Fruit Problems

1- Codling Moth

2- Peachtree Borer

3- Western Cherry Fruit Fly

4- Fire Blight

5- Coryneum Blight

extension.usu.edu

The Degree Day Model

• DD - Daily minimum and maximum temperatures

– March 1st – start counting

• Biofix – when adults are caught consistently

– Start counting over

• Utah accumulates 2,500-3,500 DD per season

extension.usu.edu

Codling MothDescription:

- overwinter as pupae on bark- adult moth with bronze band

- active at 55-60 degrees F.- usually at bloom- 3 weeks to mature, mate, lay eggs

- eggs are laid on leaves and fruit- larvae tunnel into fruit to feed on seeds

- 2-3 generations per year

Hosts: - apples- pears

Remedies: - Target eggs or emerging larvae- Traditional chemicals:

Malathion – every 5-7 daysCarbaryl (Sevin) – every 7 days

extension.usu.edu

“Softer” SolutionsCultural control:

pick up dropped fruit (June drop)thin apples to every 5-6”

Trunk banding: place corrugated cardboard bands (3-4” wide) around trunks from June-Sept.

Fruit bagging: apple bags placed on individual fruit (May-Aug)

Alternative Solutions:Spinosad (Entrust) - every 3-10 daysBt (Dipel, Crymax, Javelin) - every 3-5 daysPyrethrin (Pyganic) – every 5-7 daysHorticultural Oil – no more than 3-4 applicationsCodling Moth Virus (CydX, Virusoft) - every 7 days

extension.usu.edu

Peach Tree BorerDescription:

- overwinter in soil near trunk- adult clear-winged moth- exit holes with sawdust and gum (1’ from soil line)

Hosts: - peaches, nectarine, apricot, cherry, plum

Remedies: - Mating disruption (more than 1 acre)

- Protective spray from July 1st – early September(only lower trunk and crown)

- Traditional chemicals:MalathionCarbaryl (Sevin) Permethrin

extension.usu.edu

Western Cherry Fruit FlyDescription:

- overwinter in soil as pupae- adults emerge late May early June

- small fly lays eggs under skin of fruit- fruit must have salmon blush

- larvae (maggots) develop inside fruit- only 1 generation per year

Hosts: - sweet and tart cherries

Remedies: - Target adult flies- Traditional chemicals:

Malathion – every 3-5 daysCarbaryl (Sevin) – every 5-7 days

2/21/2013

17


“Softer” SolutionsCultural control:

- weed barrier under trees to eliminate pupae burrowing

- sanitation of orchard floor

Sanitation: keep fruit picked up as it falls

Alternative Solutions:Spinosad - every 7 daysGF-120 – attract n’ kill every 7 days

extension.usu.edu

Fire BlightSymptoms:

- Common on apple and pear

- Scorched appearance on leaves, blossoms, and shoots

- Shepherd’s crook on terminal growth

- Bacterial oozing may be present

- Dark and sunken areas in the bark

Cause: - Bacteria: Erwinia amylovora

- active during warm, wet springs

- spread to blooms by pollinators and splashing rains

- enters primarily through blossoms

Remedies: - Prune out infected wood 8-12” below visual damage

(Only during dry weather)

- Remove pruned wood to avoid spreading

- Preventative bactericide during bloom extension.usu.edu

Coryneum BlightSymptoms:

- Common on peach, apricot, cherry, plum

- Small round lesions

- Girdling cankers on twigs

- Gumming may be present

Causes:- Fungus – Wilsonmyces carpophilus

- prominent during cool, wet springs

Remedies: - Prune out infected limbs

- Apply registered fungicides:

- fall @ 50% leaf drop

- spring at shuck split

extension.usu.edu

stem canker

all things pruning

Education