alcina haircare product catologue

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Dr. Kurt Wolff · D-33504 Bielefeld WELCOME TO GERMAN QUALITY PRODUCT- MANUAL

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ALCINA HAIRCARE professional beauty care for your salon!

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Page 1: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

Dr. Kurt Wolff · D-33504 Bielefeld

WELCOME TO GERMAN QUALITY

ProduCt- MANUAL

Page 2: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

HAIr CArE ProgrAm

Contents

Here you will learn everything about the perfect care performance,

mode of action and composition of our products as well as creative

application techniques.

04 � INtroduCtIoN 05 Brand | origin | 06 Hair care | Hair color |

08 � our PArtNErS 08 top-trained hair stylists |

10 � ProduCtS � 14 Care for normal and fine hair | � 18 Care for dry and stressed hair | � 22 Care for special requirements | � 28 Hair therapy |

32 � tooL BoX 33 Hair root wash | 34 deep cleansing | 35 Hair treatments | 36 Scalp massage according to the dr. Wolff method | 38 Hair drying | 40 the hair |

42 � INgrEdIENtS ANd tHEIr FuNCtIoNS 42 Ingredients and their functions |

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Page 3: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

IntroductionIntroduction

ALCINA – morE tHAN JuSt A NAmEon April 16, 1735, a ballet opera with the title “Alcina” premiered at the theatre royal in London’s Covent garden. Composer georg Friedrich Handel must have been just as fascinated by the beautiful demi-goddess Alcina and her magic powers as pharmacologist dr. Kurt Wolff in Bielefeld almost 200 years later. In 1946, he established a cosmetics company under her name and registered the Alcina brand with the german Patent office.

However, a new name does not yet make a brand. the name Alcina was just the beginning. dr. Kurt Wolff used his pharmaceutical and dermatological knowledge to manufacture cosmetic and hair care products of a unique quality. And he decided to sell his Alcina products only to hair stylists, because he was firmly convinced that hair salons are the best address for recog-nizing the beauty in every woman and for skillfully highlighting it.

In more than 60 years, these begin-nings have evolved into trust-based personal relationships between Alcina and many thousands of hair salons and between the salons and their customers. A twofold clientele has formed. In the spirit of the brand’s founder, his successors and hundreds of employees are working these days to continue to develop excellent products for today’s heightened ex-pectations and to provide perfect support for the Alcina salons.

to ensure that the skilled experts will also be successful in the future.

only when all salon owners and their employees feel excellently serviced by Alcina will the company have reached its goal.

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Page 4: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

Introduction

HAIr CArEoptimal care for all hair is matched to the individual hair type. Beauty, care and health are an overall expression of hair. therefore, we conduct practical comparison tests on test models as early as possible. this is the only way for us to learn everything about the effectiveness of our new developments, especially for the different hair conditions.

For example, we critically examine hair grip, bounce, hair smoothness and shine and compare the results to our standards.

HAIr CoLorAlcina color products make your customers’ hair look good but also your business, because we have given them a new and modern design. In addition, our products will convince you with their highly developed emulsion galenics with avocado oil, which is gentle on both skin and hair. the coloring and conditioning substances are transported into the hair in a targeted manner where they optimally unfold their specific effect. Based on the Sensitive Formula with avocadin and avocado oil, hair and scalp are optimally protected. Furthermore, our perfectly matched oxidizing agents ensure the right viscosity of the color mixture, maximum durability and an optimal color result. For highly satisfied customers.

HAIr CArE + HAIr CoLor With Alcina Color Creme, you offer your customers an ideal solution.

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Page 5: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

our partnersour partners

Alcina und its partners –a perfect team for individual beauty.

toP-trAINEd PArtNErSBased on our comprehensive training concept, our training centers and expert consultants, we provide education for the highest in service and consultation quality.

In all specific areas of the hair profession.

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Page 6: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

ProductsProducts

of course, our conviction and expertise are also reflected in each individual product.

Each new product for our system is created over many years of intensive research under cutting-edge conditions – and always in compliance with the principles of dr. Kurt Wolff.

Page 7: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

ProductsProducts

ALCINA HAIr CArE

Volume Shampoo· Fine hair requires special

support for the hair structure

· Provides fine hair with volume, shine and elasticity

Restorative Shampoo Care Factor 1· For normal to slightly

dry hair· High-quality regenerative

active ingredients

Restorative Shampoo Care Factor 2· For dry, stressed hair· Care complex for very

stressed hair

Sensitive Shampoo· gently cleanses sensitive

hair and scalps · For a relaxed scalp

sensation and visibly relaxed hair

Acidic Conditioner· Strengthens the hair

structure · For a shiny, resistant

hair surface

Restorative Treatment Care Factor 1· Intensively strengthens

the structure of dry, stressed hair

· For a smooth and shiny hair surface

Restorative Treatment Care Factor 2· Extraordinary intensive

care product for extremely stressed hair

· Evens out even strong structural differences in the hair

Hair Therapy Shampoo· Vitalizes the scalp and

provides moisture protection

· oat extracts regenerate scalp and hair shaft

Moisture Spray· Improves combability after

hair washing· Humectant factors and

sunscreens protect from weather impacts

Restorative Foam· regenerative conditioning

foam· makes dry and stressed

hair immediately smooth and combable

Color-conditioning Shampoo· regenerative color-

conditioning shampoo· meets the special

requirements of color-treated hair

Bi-active Serum· Vitalizes and strengthens

the scalp · relieves scalp itch,

removes dandruff

Shine Conditioning Cream· Particularly well suited for

porous and dry hair · regenerates the hair and

protects from harmful impacts

Color-conditioning Foam· Brilliance and radiance for

color-treated hair · Contains sunscreens

Scalp Balm · Provides very dry and

irritable scalps with the required conditioning agents

· the formation of dandruff, redness and scalp itch are noticeably reduced

Curl Emulsion· revitalizing volume

conditioning with light hold· Perfectly defined curls

without the frizz

Hair Therapy Spray· Strengthens weak,

limp hair · Builds visibly more

hair volume

Hair Tip Fluid· Balancing, concentrated

active ingredients strengthen the hair tips

· rough tips are sustainably smoothed immediately

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Page 8: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

VoLumE SHAmPoo

Care for normal and fine hairCare for normal and fine hair

ACIdIC CoNdItIoNEr

Fine hair requires special support of the hair structure already during hair washing. the special care formula with oat protein, volume-active conditioning polymers and moisturizers provides volume, shine and elasticity without weighing down the hair.Hair- and skin-neutral amino acid sur-factants cleanse fine, sensitive hair particu-larly gently. the combination of structure and moisture factors strengthens fine hair.

Care @ | moisture &

Application:distribute shampoo evenly in moistened hair and lather up. rinse out thoroughly. repeat as needed.

Key ingredients: moisturizing hydromer for greater hair volume, structure-conditioning complex from oat protein, hair moisture balancing through panthenol.

Shiny hair is the result of systematic hair care. With the structure-smoothing Acidic Conditioner, you strengthen the hair structure, thereby creating a shiny, resistant hair surface. Immediate conditioning after hair treatments such as colorations, high-lights or restructuring treatments. Smooth and soft hair combs easily and makes daily styling easier. Especially long hair is provided with an even, shiny appearance.

Care # | moisture $ Application:After hair washing, distribute a hazelnut-sized portion in the hair and rinse out without residence time.

Key ingredients: Wheat lipids condition the hair structure.

Fruit acids create a shiny and resistant hair structure. For shiny hair with great hair grip.

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Page 9: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

Care for normal and fine hair

moISturE SPrAy

Special moisturizing factors and sunscreens vitalize tired hair and protect it from weather impacts. Effective spray treat-ment for convenient application at home or when traveling. Improves combability after hair washing, especially in long hair or sensitive hair. this moisture Spray is a “light” care refresher, usable any time.Care @ | moisture (

Application:depending on hair length, spray 10 to 15 spray portions into moist hair after hair washing and comb. do not rinse out.

Key ingredients: Cationic conditioning polymers bring back the hair’s natural bounce. Sunscreens increase the hair’s resistance.

Care for normal and fine hair

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Page 10: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

Care for dry and stressed hairCare for dry and stressed hair

rEStorAtIVE trEAtmENtCArE FACtor 1

rEStorAtIVE SHAmPoo CArE FACtor 1

the structure of dry, stressed hair is strengthened based on this intensely effective restorative treatment. Selective conditioning lipids are embedded into porous, brittle hair areas – for a smooth and shiny hair surface. Intensive structure balancing for more shine and better combability, protects stressed hair from environmental impacts.Care % | moisture %

Application:After hair washing, distribute 20 to 30 ml of restorative treatment in moist hair. rinse out thoroughly after about 10 to 15 minutes and follow up as usual.

Key ingredients: Hair-selective conditioning agents make the hair smooth and protect it from drying out.Natural lipids from grape seed oil regenerate the hair, thereby creating a velvety-soft hair sensation and healthy shine.

Normal to slightly dry hair needs specially matched hair care. High-quality, regenerative active ingredients in this gentle shampoo formula create vitalized and shiny hair – every day. this mild and creamy shampoo cleanses the hair particularly gently. Care @ | moisture *

Application:distribute restorative Shampoo evenly in moist hair and lather up. rinse out thoroughly. repeat as needed.

Key ingredients: moisture factor panthenol for vitalized, shiny hair.

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Page 11: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

Care for dry and stressed hairCare for dry and stressed hair

SHINE CoNdItIoNINg CrEAmrEStorAtIVE FoAm

this Shine Conditioning Cream is particu-larly suited for porous and dry hair. the fine texture spontaneously regenerates the hair and protects it from damaging impacts. For daily application – prevents static cling and provides daily protection for all hair types.Care $ | moisture &

Application:depending on hair length, use your fingers to evenly apply 1 or 2 dispenser portions to dry hair lengths and ends. do not rinse out.

Key ingredients: moisture complex from elastomer and panthenol.Structure balancing through wheat proteins with hair affinity.

this restorative Foam makes dry and stressed hair instantly smooth and comb-able. the particularly light consistency penetrates the hair quickly and makes it na-turally bouncy and shiny, with new elasticity.Care # | moisture $ Application:Shake can well. Hold nozzle downward. After hair washing, distribute a tennis ball-sized quantity in towel-dried hair, comb and style as usual. do not rinse out.

Key ingredients: moisture-lipid complex for greater shine and vitality.Sunscreen for better structural protection of sensitive hair.

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Page 12: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

dry, stressed hair regains its natural beauty through a systematically conditioning hair wash. Carefully matched ingredients are combined in a highly effective conditioning complex for very stressed hair. For a par-ticularly concentrated repair effect during every hair wash. Care $ | moisture ^ Application:distribute restorative Shampoo evenly in moist hair and lather up. rinse out thoroughly. repeat as needed.

Key ingredients: Hair structure factor from natural wheat extracts and amino acids.Hair-selective conditioning polymers and moisture-binding provitamin B5 provide shine and vitality.

Care for special requirementsCare for special requirements

rEStorAtIVE SHAmPoo CArE FACtor 2

rEStorAtIVE trEAtmENt CArE FACtor 2

this extraordinary intensive care product for extremely stressed hair evens out even strong structural differences in the hair. the pampering experience with the restorative treatment provides the hair with a silky shine and smooth volume. Especially for color-treated, restructured hair. regenerates even strong structural damage.Care ) | moisture *

Application:After hair washing, distribute 20 to 30 ml of restorative treatment in moist hair. Leave on for 10 to 15 minutes. Lather up with a little water and rinse out thoroughly.

Key ingredients: the hair-identical keratin derivative from pure Cashmere silk (Cashmilan®) strengthens, repairs and provides sustained structure balancing.A rich emulsion from cationic polymers and conditioning oil components smoothes the hair and seals porous hair surfaces.

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Page 13: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

CoLor-CoNdItIoNINg SHAmPoo

CoLor-CoNdItIoNINg FoAm

Care for special requirementsCare for special requirements

this regenerating Color-conditioning Shampoo meets the requirements of color-treated hair. mild and gentle “hair bath” with a triple effect for very stressed hair – conditions, repairs and protects. Adjusted conditioning performance with structural and color protection for intensive shine and improved combability. Care # | moisture * Application:distribute shampoo evenly in moist hair and lather up. rinse out thoroughly. repeat as needed.

Key ingredients: Skin- and hair-neutral amino acid surfactants for the gentle cleansing of color-treated hair.Active ingredient complex from wheat and provitamin B5 for a noticeable conditioning experience.

this Color-conditioning Foam applies a light shine from conditioning polymers to the hair, enhances the brilliance and radiance of your coloration and is convenient in its application. Panthenol and a cationic conditioning complex make the hair naturally smooth. Contains sunscreen. Care $ | moisture $

Application:Shake well. direct nozzle downward. After the hair wash, distribute a tennis ball-sized quantity in towel-dried hair, comb through and style as usual. do not rinse out.

Key ingredients: Color protection complex for color-treated hair from sunscreen and shine enhancers.Structural regeneration from provitamin B5 and hair-selective conditioning polymers.

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Page 14: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

Care fore special requirementsCare for special requirements

CurL EmuLSIoN HAIr tIP FLuId

Full or partial restructuring treatments, natural curls: Whenever hair is curly or wavy, it needs individual care. this specific care is ensured by the carefully matched active ingredients of the Curl Emulsion. Vitalizing volume conditioning with light hold. Care without the extra weight. oil-free. Lively bouncing curls. Curl Emulsion means perfectly defined curls without the frizz.Care % | moisture $ Application:After hair washing and/or conditioning, distribute 1 to 3 pump portions in towel-dried hair. repeat as needed.

Key ingredients: Hair-selective bounce formula from keratin and provitamin B5.

Every day, your hair is exposed to a variety of stressful impacts that it cannot fend off without support in the long term. the hair tips are stressed the most: they become brittle, dull and weak and tend to split. the Hair tip Fluid ensures that your hair survives everyday stress in fine shape. Balancing, concentrated active ingredients strengthen the hair tips in a targeted manner with valuable care and moisture. rough tips are sustainably smoothed immediately and regain their natural silky, healthy shine.Care ) | moisture Application:distribute 2 or 3 pump portions over your fingertips and massage gently into dry hair tips until the product is completely absorbed by the hair. do not rinse out.

Key ingredients: Shine enhancer: Cyclomethicone/cyclo-pentasiloxane

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Page 15: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

SENSItIVE SHAmPoo

Hair therapyHair therapy

HAIr tHErAPy SHAmPoo

Vitalizes the scalp and gently cleanses the hair.Effect: mild yet noticeable vitalization of the scalp and moisture protection for greater smoothness. oat extracts regenerate scalp and hair shaft. Pleasantly soft lather for a fresh and vitalized scalp sensation. the hair is shiny but not smoothed through classic combability aids.Active ingredients: mild surfactant combination, Aquarichtm, Puricare. Care ! | moisture (

Application:moisten hair and evenly distribute 5 to 8 pump portions of lather depending on the hair length. rinse out thoroughly.

Key ingredients: mild surfactant combination,Aquarichtm,moringa tree extract.

Specially developed for the gentle cleansing of sensitive scalps and hair. Aloe vera provides valuable moisture during every hair wash. Bisabolol and allantoin have a soothing effect. For a relaxed scalp sensation and visibly relaxed hair. this dermatologically tested galenic formula can enhance resistance and protects the scalp from getting easily irritated.Care @ | moisture * Application:distribute shampoo evenly in moist hair and lather up. rinse out thoroughly. repeat as needed.

Key ingredients: Aloe vera, bisabolol, allantoin.

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Page 16: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

Hair therapyHair therapy

BI-ACtIVE SErumHAIr tHErAPy SPrAy SCALP BALm

Intensively soothing scalp serum for sensitive scalps.Effect: Vitalizes, fortifies and soothes the scalp, relieves scalp itch, removes dandruff, normalizes the sebaceous glands.Active ingredients: Panthenol, glycerin, salicylic acid, menthyl lactate (a gently cooling active ingredient), extract from barberry and plantain.Care ! | moisture &

Application:distribute the contents of a tube on the scalp parting by parting after hair washing and massage in lightly. do not use on children under the age of three.

Key ingredients: Panthenol, salicylic acid, extract from barberry and plantain.

the Scalp Balm provides particularly dry and irritable scalps with the required conditioning agents. the scalp regains its normal protective function. dandruff, redness and scalp itch are noticeably reduced. Evens out scalp disorders and reduces the causes of dandruff.Care & | moisture $ Application:Before hair washing, apply 20 to 30 ml of Scalp Balm to the scalp parting by parting. Leave on for 10 to 15 minutes. Lather up with a little water and rinse out thoroughly. Follow up by washing the hair with Sensitive Shampoo.

Key ingredients: Herbal extracts from allantoin and bisabolol.With skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. Conditioning lipids for strengthening the skin barrier.

Lotion for strengthening weak, limp hair, builds visibly more hair volume. Structure-balancing care ingredients protect the hair structure.Effect: Strengthening therapeutic active ingredient complex with panthenol, niacinamide and PVP, Aquarich™ and creatine.Care ! | moisture * Application:depending on hair length, distribute 10 to 15 spray portions in hair lengths and ends. do not rinse out. Follow up by styling hair as usual. only suitable for fine hair up to a hair length of about 10 cm! do not spray into the eyes!

Key ingredients: Panthenol, niacinamide,Aquarich™, creatine.

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tool Boxtool Box

tooL BoX tHE ALCINA tooL BoX For AddEd-VALuE mEtHodS

SPECIAL tECHNIquESSpecial tips, tricks and techniques in handling hair.Even the best products can only be optimally effective, if they are dosed and applied correctly. therefore, this section will provide you with special application descriptions that have proven particularly pleasant and gentle in our longstanding practice.

WASHINg tHE HAIr rootSthe most gentle hair wash – especially for longer hair – is to wash the hair roots:mix the type-matched shampoo with water in the applicator flask in a ratio of 1:4.

tip:make sure that you rinse out the shampoo thoroughly so the hair is not weighed down unnecessarily.

dEEP CLEANSINgFor removing strong styling product residues in the hair.Add 3 pump portions of deep Cleansing Shampoo to the applicator flask for washing the hair roots and dilute with warm water (15 ml). distribute this mixture to dry hair (hair lengths and ends) and shampoo gently. Leave on for 5 minutes. then add water and shampoo the entire hair and scalp. rinse out thoroughly.

1. Add the mixture parting by parting to the dry hair roots.

2. Lather up with gentle pressure.

3. thoroughly lather up with water.repeat process, if necessary.

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tool Boxtool Box

dEEP CLEANSINg HAIr trEAtmENtSdepending on hair length:Hair length up to 10 cm = 20 g of hair treatment Hair length from 10 to 20 cm = 30 g of hair treatmentHair length more than 20 cm = 35 g of hair treatment

1. Weigh out in the applicator bowl and use a brush to distribute evenly throughout the hair.

2. Cover the entire hair with the Klimazon turban and leave product on for 10 to 15 minutes.

3. remove the turban and rinse the hair thoroughly. Follow up by sealing the hair treatment with the Acidic Conditioner method.

ACIdIC CoNdItIoNErApplication for the added-value methods:Add 2 pump portions from the salon size bottle to the 500-ml applicator (see picture), fill up with warm water and mix by shaking briefly. rinse over the entire hair immediately and knead the hair lightly. rinse out thoroughly without additional residence time.

Very oily scalps or intensive styling product residues require a specially matched active ingredient formula that thoroughly cleanses the hair without irritating the scalp. removes excess sebum and/or styling product residues from the hair. As optimal preparation for colorations, tints or restructuring treatments.

Application:distribute shampoo evenly in moistened hair and lather up. rinse out thoroughly. repeat as needed.

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tool Boxtool Box

SCALP mASSAgE ACCordINg to tHE dr. Kurt WoLFF mEtHod

1. Effleurage of the neck muscles on both sides from top to bottom.

3. Pressure massage of the connective tissue from the neck muscles to the ears – use both hands.

4. repeat the massage as described in item 1.

2 . Pressure massage of the connective tissue along the neck muscles; start on the right side (3 middle fingers); effleurage toward the outside in between; the left hand is placed on the top of the head.

5. massage of the connective tissue in the scalp.

6. “Pleating” the scalp.

7. massage of the connective tissue in the scalp (briefly) as described in item 5.

8. Effleurage of the front hair contour.

9.–11. Large effleurage stroke.

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tool Box

HAIr dryINg to dry the hair as gently as possible, squeeze it lightly in a towel after washing. then wrap it for pre-drying in a towel (pre-warmed, if possible). tie a turban to keep it from shifting and let it rest for a while.

If the hair is to be shaped with certain blow-drying techniques, make sure that you do not use too much heat in blow-drying. Extremely hot air will attack the hair structure.

AddItIV CoNdItIoNINg oILAs an additive to the hair treatment:Mixing ratio:10 pump portion for 30 ml of hair treatment to increase the effectResidence times: 10 to 15 minutes

As an additive to other products:Active scalp protection 1. For customers with a sensitive scalp,

especially for visible redness, partially apply Additiv to the scalp directly before colorations or restructuring treatments using your fingertip or a small applicator bowl and cotton swab.

2. Without residence time, begin applying the coloration or wrapping for the restructuring treatment.

tool Box

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1

2

3

4 5

6

7

8

tool Boxtool Box

1 – Hair shaft

the part of the hair above the skin surface. on its

outer wall, fiber cells or a scaly layer (cuticula) form

for protection.

2 – Horny cell layer

the cornification of the skin’s keratinocytes results in

a thick layer of scaly cells that protects the skin from

moisture evaporation and harmful external impacts.

3 – Epidermal layers

Additional layers of the epidermis support the

keratinocytes in their cornification process.

4 – Basal layer

germinal layer for the skin’s keratinocytes. Seals

the epidermis against the skin’s connective tissue

(dermis). Forms the hair follicle fold.

5 – Hair follicle

Skin fold into which the hair is embedded.

6 – Sebaceous gland

releases a thin protective film to the scalp and hair to

prevent them from drying out.

7 – Pigment cells

Contain two types of pigment, eumelanin and

pheomelanin whose mixing ratio creates the natural

hair color.

8 – Keratinocytes

Cornification forms fibrous cells, keratin fibrils, that

form the hair cortex as a tight tangle.

tHE HAIrStruKturE ANd FuNCtIoNSFrom a medical standpoint, hair is viewed as a so-called “appendage.” While it grows out of the skin, one can see that the hair is embedded into a so-called skin fold (hair follicle) when looking at a skin cross-section under a microscope. this skin fold reaches deep into the subcutis. the exact overall numbers of hair on the body are not known. Estimates are between 900,000 and 17.7 million hairs, 100,000 of them on the head.

tHE HAIr rootthe hair roots (bulbus) consist of highly active cell tissue and use most of the skin’s energy. If we placed all hairs on the head in a row, the hair would grow 1.6 m per hour! Because of this enormous achievement, the hair roots need to rest at certain times. during this rest (telogen), the hair usually falls out, only to regrow during the subsequent new growth period (anagen) from the germ cells. As in the epidermis, the hair root includes both the fibrous cells (keratino-cytes) and the pigment cells (melanocytes).

tHE PIgmENt CELLSIn contrast to those in the skin, the hair’s pigment cells include two different types of pigment: the brownish black eumelanin and the reddish pheomelanin. the mixture of these two melanins results in a person’s natural hair color (from Nordic blond and Irish red to mediter ranean black). Pheomelanin is very resistant and represents the cause of the yellowish hue seen in bleached hair after insufficient processing time.

tHE KErAtIN CELLSthe keratin cells of the hair root differ from their relatives in the skin. While they also keratinize with increasing distance from the root, they form fibrous cells (keratin fibrils) that are twisted helically with other fibrils. Similar to a rope, these fibrils form a tight tangle called the hair cortex. An important cement-like substance ensures that the cells adhere to each other.

tHE HAIr SHAFtWe speak of a hair shaft as soon as the hair has grown beyond the skin’s surface, i.e. has become visible. Now the hair is exposed to all environ-mental impacts and has accordingly developed a natural protective system. on the outside of the hair, the fibrous cells form a similar platelet-like form as in the skin. this keratinous plating is called cuticula and protects the sensitive fibrous layer on the inside of the hair from evaporation and harmful environmental impacts. the main prerequisite for beautiful hair is a smooth and intact cuticula that reflects light and makes the hair look shiny. In contrast to the horny cell layer of the skin, the cuticula is unable to regenerate. As a result, maintenance of the cuticula is most important. Without an intact cuticula, for example, hair tips will split. Substances that act on the hair or are supposed to be permanently anchored in the hair (hair color, restructuring treatment) must first penetrate this keratinous layer. together, the cuticula and the cortex form an extremely robust hair fiber with great tensile strength. taken together, all the hair on a person’s head can support a weight of about 10 to 16 tons before it tears. the remarkable strength of hair is due to another characteristic of the fibrous structure: the fibers form not just a helical structure with each other but they are also networked through so-called sulfide bonds. It is this network that creates the hair’s enormous strength and elasticity. the sulfide bonds act like thousands of small spiral springs that always restore the hair to its original condition.

SEBACEouS gLANd ANd HAIr-rAISINg muSCLEthe sebaceous gland in the hair follicle has the task of releasing a thin protective film to the scalp and hair to prevent both from drying out. the release of sebum is controlled by male hormones. If the amount of sebum released is excessive (seborrhea), the hair should be washed daily with a particularly mild shampoo. the hair-raising muscle (m. arrector pili) only plays a role in a transferred sense, when “our hairs stand on end.”

HAiR RooT (bulbus)

Sebum

Muscle

Red blood vessel

Blue blood vessel

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Ingredients and their functionsIngredients and their functions

Antioxidants prevent sensitive active ingredients and conditioning agents (e.g. vitamins, essential lipids) from being destroyed by the oxygen in the air. Active ingredients: tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, BHt

Fragrances provide the formula with a beautiful and pleasant scent. Apart from the visual appearance, the scent is one of the important sensory perceptions in our environment. the fragrance covers disruptive odors of the formula and generates a scent that is in harmony with the effect of the product.

Emulsifier is the anchor that stably combines water and oils. many conditioning agents have an oily character and cannot be worked into aqueous formulas. the emulsifier has a dual function: on the one hand, it is water-soluble, on the other hand, it is oil-soluble.

dyes provide a formula with a nice color. As with the scent, we also judge a hair product by its color. Product coloring also serves the purpose of making similar products distinguishable.

Humectants increase the hair’s ability to bind moisture. Normally, the hair contains about 13 to 15% water (depending on the ambient humidity). Without this moisture, the hair would be dull, dry and brittle. Furthermore, dry hair tends to develop static cling (fly-away hair). Increasing moisture retention in the hair reduces static electricity. In addition, it improves hair grip and smoothness, creating a more natural bounce.

Filming agents support hair firmness from the outside. In a way, they form a second protective layer and make the hair thicker. Based on this support, greater volume can be built up even in fine hair. the finished hair style shape is stabilized by filming agents and therefore made more durable.

Preservatives serve to protect the product from microbiological spoilage. Especially important skin and hair conditioning agents are appreciated by microorganisms whose growth must be prevented. Preservation is always done according to the following rule: as much as necessary, as little as possible.Stress tests as early as during product development determine whether the formula is sufficiently protected against spoilage. In most cases, preservation is accomplished with substances that are also used to preserve foodstuffs.

Consistency agents provide the product with a viscous or gel-like consistency to facilitate better dosage or ensure it adheres better to the hair.

Complexing agents like antioxidants are part of the group of stabilizers. Complexing agents bind metal ions that can destroy sensitive ingredients.

Plant extracts In folk medicine, plants are an indispensable component for curing ailments. often, botanical infusions are also recommended as stimulants. In cosmetics, plant extracts are important for a balanced scalp. Extracts from chamomile, hops or yarrow are worth mentioning.

Sunscreens protect the hair structure from free radical damage. together with antioxidants and complexing agents, sunscreens form a protective complex for a healthy hair structure. In a low concentration, sunscreens also protect sensitive conditioning agents in the formula from harmful sun impact.

A gLoSSAry oF INgrEdIENtS

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Ingredients and their functions Ingredients and their functions

Networking agents ensure the good adhesion of aqueous solutions to water-repellent surfaces. Like surfactants or emulsifiers, networking agents combine two mutually repellent phases or media. Networking agents are used e.g. in foams, so that the active ingredients distribute throughout the hair as evenly as possible (see also emulsifiers, surfactants).

Solvents make solid active ingredients and conditioning agents available in the formula. only dissolved substances can penetrate the hair or scalp to unfold their effect. Solvents are also necessary if the product is to have special properties (e.g. quick drying time). this particularly applies to spray products.

oil components Like the relipidizing agents, they prevent skin and hair from prematurely drying out. In hair, oils achieve a conditioning effect on the one hand, and the hair can be impregnated based on oil additives on the other hand. this way, sensitive hair areas can be protected during permanent wave or color applications.

Pearlizers Based on fine wax crystals, which often also act as relipidizing agents, light is refracted in the form of a pearly shine. Pearlizers are often used in shampoos or hair treatments with a pronounced conditioning effect. the pearly shine makes the product even more expressive.

Plant lipid Just as there are important lipids in nutrition, lipids are also very beneficial in hair care. they naturally condition the hair surface without overburdening the hair. Lipids provide the hair with a light, hydrophobic protective film, improving combability and natural curl definition.

Conditioning polymers/Conditioning monomers

attach to damaged parts of the hair surface and form a lubricant film that improves combability. this is also known as avivage. dull and brittle hair becomes soft again and combs easily. Conditioning polymers are frequently positively charged for better adhesion to the hair. Conditioning monomers are lighter in their conditioning action. often, they are used where conditioning products are frequently used (e.g. in shampoos).

pH regulator to provide a hair product with the best suitable pH at all times, so-called pH regulators are used. A special mixture of organic acids, e.g. citric acid and its salts, ensures that the pH of many products will correspond to the natural pH of hair and skin and that it remains stable for a long period of time. By the way, such substances can also be found in all living cells.

Protein additive Almost 90% of the hair consists of proteins, which serve as a skin and hair conditioning factor. they are structure- balancing and repair damaged areas. the hair is provided with more volume, shine and firm grip. Protein additives are extracted from silk, plants, hair and collagen.

relipidizing agents help maintain lipid protection in the skin. Without relipidizing agents, sensitive skin could become very dry and chapped after washing. due to their gentle effect on the skin, non- ionic surfactants or W/o emulsifiers are often used as relipidizing agents. relipidizing agents provide a pleasantly soft skin sensation (see also: softeners).

Surfactants Like emulsifiers, surfactants serve as bridging compounds between oils and water. As is well-known, water and oil do not mix. A surfactant has something of both. the molecule is water-soluble on the one end and oil-soluble on the other. Without surfactants, we would not be able to remove oily contaminations (e.g. sebum).

Vitamins Are essential substances in our metabolism. In most cases, they must be provided to the body from external sources. the hair roots and the scalp also require vitamins for a healthy metabolism.

Softeners are additives to a filming agent to improve elasticity of the film. Some filming agents are very rough and brittle. despite extreme setting action, the durability would be short-lived. Small additions of softeners dramatically improve durability. For medium setting action, addition of a softener produces a natural elasticity of the film, i.e. natural curl bounce (see also: humectants, relipidizing agents).

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Page 24: ALCINA HAIRCARE product catologue

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