Technique Tips – Abseiling

Abseiling safely is the focus of this week's tech tips. Take some hints from Jules Barrett on knots, cowstails, friction and other techniques for travelling safely in the same direction as gravity.

If you’re into mountain rock, sea cliff or alpine climbing you tend to do a fair bit of abseiling. Some crags require an abseil descent to get off e.g. Napes Needle and the Old Man of Hoy. On others like Gimmer Crag in the Lake District, abseiling can be a quicker and more attractive alternative to a difficult walk down. Bad weather, route-finding problems or unexpectedly difficult climbing might cause you to retreat from the route itself. A popular venue for epic abseil retreats is Pillar Rock in the winter where I’m sure I’ve descended just as much rock as I’ve climbed. Finally, abseiling’s often the only way into sea cliffs and anyone who’s seen the famous Leo Dickinson photo of Dream of White Horses at Gogarth, will want, at some stage, to get on some sea cliffs.

The fundamentals of anchor selection, rigging the rope, abseil technique and backing up abseils are best learnt practically from an experienced friend or an instructor. However, assuming that you’re happy with the basics, it might be worth having a think about some of this

Make yourself a cowstail device before you start abseiling

Larks-foot a 120cm sling to the belay loop on your harness and tie an overhand knot around 10 cm from the harness. Clip your belay device into the loop formed between the overhand knot and the larks foot. A screw gate karabiner (green in photo) is clipped into the end of the sling. This karabiner can be used to clip into the anchor providing

security whilst threading the rope into the abseil device and arranging the prussik. Once the abseil device is threaded and prussik is on it's a good idea to do a short (few cms) test abseil to make sure everything is working properly before removing the cowstail from the anchor. The cowstail krab (green in photo) can be stowed out of the way on a gear loop whilst you're abseiling.

This sort of arrangement is very handy when you're doing multiple abseils as you've got a permanent cowstail that can be used to clip into anchors.

Throwing the ropes into the windIf it's windy, throwing your ropes down the crag may not be an option. One of the worst places for this is Western Gully on Dinas Mot; the standard descent after doing routes on the Nose. Often you're throwing your ropes directly into a howling westerly and you're doing well if they go ten feet before diving between the rope-eating rocks in the bottom of the gully.

There are a few options in this situation. If you've got a rucksack you might decide to stuff the rope into that (starting with the knotted ends). Attach a short sling to the rucksack and hang it from the belay loop on your harness. As you abseil the rope just feeds out of the bag. If the angle is very gentle you might be better attaching the rucksack to the side of your harness with a karabiner as it tends to drag on the ground and get stuck.

Another method to try is coiling the rope around your body (see pic) and flicking the coils off as you abseil. Set up the abseil as normal and take coils across your body starting from the end of the rope. This is important. If you start with the end closest to the anchor they won't run off. As you abseil you stop, flick off a few coils and abseil a bit more before stopping and flicking off more coils.

Finally, you might decide to lower the first person down and then everyone else abseils after them.

Good abseiling technique

When abseiling you can minimize the load on the anchors by abseiling smoothly. This is a very good thing. Cavers and rope access types have found that a jerky abseil technique where the abseiler is rhythmically bouncing on the rope can double the force on the anchors. Ascending a rope using a bouncy technique generates even more force

on the anchors. The logical conclusion of this is that the worst-case scenario is a heavy person ascending a short rope (less rope to absorb the forces) with a bouncy technique.

It's very important to protect your rope from sharp edges when abseiling. A bouncy abseiling technique, particularly on dynamic climbing rope can cause the rope to saw over an edge. At best the rope may be damaged. At worst it may be cut.

Don’t abseil off the end of the ropeIf you can't see that the ropes reach the ground then always tie knots in the ends to prevent you abseiling off the end. A figure-of-eight pulled fairly snug is a good option. Always leave at least a forearms length of tail below the knot to prevent it from shaking off the end of the rope.

Add friction when abseilingIt's sometimes useful to be able to add friction to your system when abseiling. You might want to do this if you're wearing a rucksack, your ropes are wet, icy or muddy or you're using a particularly slick belay device. There are a number of different methods but one of the best is to use two belay karabiners rather than one.

Abseiling (German: abseilen, "to rope down"), rappelling in American English

 

The primary use of Abseiling is a technique used by rock climbers and mountaineers to descend a pitch or section of climb. The main benefit of Abseiling or Rappelling is speed as once a climber has finished a climb, descent is often the trickiest and most dangerous part.

 

When we talk about Abseiling or Rappelling with reference to a survival situation then we normally make the assumption that the only commodity we have access to is a rope. Rock climbers and mountaineers have many ways to attach themselves to the rope and slow there means of descent by friction:

 

Karabiner with an Italian Hitch (friction knot) Karabiner with figure of 8 descender Karabiner with Stitch plate Karabiner with GriGri Karabiner with Petzl stop

Unless you have access to a harness and karabiner or a sling and karabiner, then you are limited to using a body abseil:

 

Angels wings below:

Classic Abseil below:

South African Abseil below:

Rappelling/Abseiling

Rob rappelling in the Gunks, NY

Rappelling (a.k.a. abseiling or "rapping") is an important technique that every new

climber should learn and learn well. Rappelling is often the only way to get down from a

route. Even when there is a down climb, the descent can be dangerous and fraught with

loose rock or other perils. Rappelling is quick and very safe if done properly. 

Watch the following video for a quick demo and discussion on how to set up and

perform your rappel. Also read through the below instructions for some more 

in depth info. As always, consult a professional to get first-hand instruction. This guide is meant to reinforce lessons learned from professionals. This guide cannot replace the value of person-person instruction! You alone are responsible for understanding how to use your gear. 

Note on the below video: Since uploading this video, we've realized we should have included a few other points of instruction. We will try to have a new video soon, but until then, here are some additions: 1. Get into the habit of always tying stopper knots at the end of your rope before rappelling. Even if you know your rope is long enough tie one anyway. This will solidify a very good habit. Rapping off the end of a rope is one of the most common causes of fatality when climbing. 2. You can back up your rappel with a prussik for increased safety if you desire. Even if you don't want to rap with a prussik actively, you should always carry extra lengths of cord on your harness with which to make an ascending set-up (You can see Cristina's extra cord attached on her right hip). There are a myriad of reasons why this may be necessary. For example, you may realize you've started a 35m rappel and set up a double strand rappel with a 60m rope!3. Also, yes, Cristina should have been wearing a helmet. 

How to Set Up a Rappel:

1. First things first: get yourself secured. Let's not forget that you are probably

working at the top of a cliff. Even if you feel comfortable and safe on a nice ledge,

don't forget that any slip or fall will probably be the end of you. Secure yourself

into whatever gear you have at the top of the climb. Use a runner that is girth

hitched to your harness (through the two loops between your legs that your rope

runs through) and a locking karabiner to clip into the bolts with the rap

rings/chains/etc. Inspect the bolts and the rings/chains/etc for rust, wear,

integrity.  No fixed protection? If you have some active or passive pro, place a

piece or anchor yourself to a solid tree or boulder. Review our articles

on passive pro, active pro and natural pro if you are unsure about this. You

can also use a figure 8 on a bight or a clove hitch on the climbing rope to

secure yourself at the top of the climb.

2. Alright, now you are ready to consider the anchor. The anchor that you set for

your rappel will depend on the resources available at the crag that you are at.

Many popular crags will have rap rings or chains at the top of the cliff band to

make the descent easy. You always want to rappel through rings or chains rather

than bolts because chains and rings are smooth while bolts have abrasive edges

that will damage your rope.  Always be sure to check their integrity since you

do not know who placed them or when. Rap chains are most often connected to

bolts that are drilled into the rock. Inspect the bolts: do they spin? do they look

rusty or brittle? If so, consider setting your own anchor with some webbing. Is the

bottom chain link or the rap ring worn down? Be sure to know the basic

principles of anchors and how to set a trad anchor so you can set your own

in a pinch.

3. Now you need to attach your rope to your anchor. This usually involves

running one end of the rope through your rap rings (or chains) until the middle of

the rope hangs between the two points. If possible, try to keep this end of the

rope and all the slack on the ledge with you to prevent it from sluffing off down

the cliff and getting caught in a crack/tree/etc.  If you are rapping off a pair of

opposite and opposed karabiners or a locking karabiner, then you can just clip

the middle of the rope into the biners. 

4. Always, tie stopper knots in both ends of your rope. You can use a variety of

knots in order to create the "stopper" effect, but the stopper knot itself is

essentially the same knot used to back up a double figure eight, or one half of a

double fisherman's. The stopper knot's purpose is to ensure that the end of the

rope does not pass through your belay device, thus preventing you from hitting

the deck in the event that your rope is too short for the rappel. "But what if I know

my rope is long enough?" You might be asking right now. We suggest that

you ALWAYS tie a stopper knot at the end of your rope to GET IN THE

HABIT. If you cultivate good habits from the beginning, you will be less likely to

forget to tie a stopper knot when your rope is not long enough. One of the most

common causes of climber fatality is rapping off the end of the rope! Get in a

good habit now so you don't become another statistic!

5. Now you need to get the rest of the rope down off the cliff edge without

knotting or getting hopelessly caught. Make sure both ends of your rope are

flaked. We suggest throwing each half of the rope on its own, coiled separately,

off the cliff. Some throw both halves at the same time, but we've found they are

more prone to tangling. Make sure there are no knots that will hold you up half

way through the rappel. With your rope in hand and your personal anchor still

secure, lean out over the cliff edge and inspect the landing: Is there a puddle of

water? a tree? a sleeping infant? If so, then be sure to try to avoid the hazards

when tossing your rope. In the case of a sleeping infant, holler out to find a

parent so they can move the baby. More likely, it will be a clueless climber

hanging out at the bottom of the crag - just yell (politely at him/her) to get out of

the way. Immediately before tossing your first half of the rope, shout out

"ROPE!" Toss that sucker, being careful to avoid any hazards and to maintain

your stability on top of the cliff. Toss your second half in the same fashion, yelling

"rope" and all. If there is a tree that you are worried your rope will get caught

in don't look at the tree! If you look at the tree while you are throwing, you will

invariably throw the rope into the branches. If your rope gets slightly tangled or

caught on the way down, don't stress. Flick the rope a few times, and if it was

properly flaked, it should work itself out. If it doesn't, you can always deal with it

as you rappel down, though this is less than ideal.

6. Now that your rope is secured, you need to attach yourself to the system. For

beginning rock climbers, it is most common to rappel through a Black Diamond

(BD) ATC, ATC-XP or a Petzl GriGri. Follow the instructions that came with your

belay device on how to load the rope for a rappel. Regardless on the model,

the belay device should attach to your belay loop on your harness via a

locking karabiner and the rope should feed in one side and out the other. You

will be providing your own belay on the way down. In order to do this, place both

hands on the rope about 6" down from where the rope exits the belay

device. To brake the rope, hold your hand firmly at your hip so that the friction

from the belay device arrests the rope. Once the rope is fed through the belay

device attached to your harness and you are giving yourself a good brake, you

are secure into the rappelling system.

7. DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING. Is the anchor secure? Are ALL of your locking

karabiners in the system locked off? Is the rope fed through the belay device

properly? Is your harness double-backed? Do you have everything you need off

the cliff ledge (ex: water bottle, sunglasses)? 

8. If your partner is down at the base of the cliff, let them know that you are about to

rappel. They can give you a FIREMAN'S BELAY from below by simply holding

both ends of the rope. In the event of you having a seizure, out of body

experience, getting attacked by a bald eagle, or getting hit in the head by a rock,

they simply need to pull down on the rope and this will arrest the rope

through your belay device. 

9. Alright, now you can remove your personal anchor from step 1 while

maintaining your hand brake on the belay device. You are ready for the

ride. Lower yourself slowly by feeding rope through the belay device. Lift up

slowly to release tension and let it slide through the device at the speed that you

feel comfortable. If you are on a steep to vertical wall, lower your butt first so

that your legs are elevated out in front of you as if you are sitting on a couch

with your feet up on a coffee table. Slowly walk down with your feet, being sure to

look beneath you to scout out good footholds.