abc’s to oceanography

ABC’s to OceanographyABC’s to Oceanography

Index of Oceanography TermsIndex of Oceanography Terms AAtmospheretmosphere

BBuoyancyuoyancy

CCurrentsurrents

DDensityensity

EEpipelagic Zonepipelagic Zone

FFood Chainood Chain

GGulf Streamulf Stream

HHydrophonesydrophones

IInertianertia

JJason-1ason-1

KKnotnot

LLead Lineead Line

MMeteorologyeteorology

NNumerical Modelsumerical Models

OOceancean

PPhytoplanktonhytoplankton

QQuikSCATuikSCAT

RRainain

SSea Sprayea Spray

TTidesides

UUpwellingpwelling

VVector Wind Stressector Wind Stress

WWavesaves

Heat FluHeat Fluxx OceanographOceanographyy ZZooplanktonooplankton

A thin blanket of air that protects EarthA thin blanket of air that protects Earth The atmosphere is crucial to life on EarthThe atmosphere is crucial to life on Earth Without the atmosphere:Without the atmosphere:

• Organisms would die within a few minutesOrganisms would die within a few minutes• There would be no lakes, oceans, sounds, clouds, or red sunsetsThere would be no lakes, oceans, sounds, clouds, or red sunsets• Earth would experience extremely cold temperatures at night and extremely warm Earth would experience extremely cold temperatures at night and extremely warm

temperatures during the daytemperatures during the day

tmospheretmosphere

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:99% of the 99% of the

atmosphere is atmosphere is contained within 30 contained within 30

kilometers of kilometers of Earth’s surfaceEarth’s surface

Did you know?Did you know?

If Earth were the size If Earth were the size of a beach ball, the of a beach ball, the

atmosphere would be atmosphere would be thinner than a piece thinner than a piece

of paperof paper

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blueforce4116/1398244602/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blueforce4116/1398244814/in/set-

72157602039248380/

Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art

Extension of AtmosphereExtension of Atmosphere The atmosphere and the ocean are closely linkedThe atmosphere and the ocean are closely linked

• The entire atmosphere holds as much heat as the top 2.5 meters (8 feet) of the oceanThe entire atmosphere holds as much heat as the top 2.5 meters (8 feet) of the ocean• The entire atmosphere holds as much water as 2.5 centimeters (1 inch) of the oceanThe entire atmosphere holds as much water as 2.5 centimeters (1 inch) of the ocean

Atmospheric Boundary Layer (ABL) - lowest part of the atmosphereAtmospheric Boundary Layer (ABL) - lowest part of the atmosphere• Wind strength and the heat flux between the air and ocean impact ABL thicknessWind strength and the heat flux between the air and ocean impact ABL thickness

Cloud patterns within the ABLCloud patterns within the ABL• Cumulus & stratocumulus at the top of a humid ABLCumulus & stratocumulus at the top of a humid ABL• Fog at the bottom of a stable ABL (little mixing)Fog at the bottom of a stable ABL (little mixing)

Cumulus Stratocumulus Fog

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kubina/152730867/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/momofone98/140363329/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/mre770/322389785/

uoyancyuoyancy

A force created by differences in densityA force created by differences in density When two substances with different densities are When two substances with different densities are

mixed in a container, buoyancy causes the:mixed in a container, buoyancy causes the:• Less dense substance to rise to the topLess dense substance to rise to the top• More dense substance to sink to the bottomMore dense substance to sink to the bottom

Where is buoyancy visible in real life?Where is buoyancy visible in real life?

• Syrup sinks to the Syrup sinks to the bottom of a glass bottom of a glass of water because of water because syrup is more syrup is more dense than waterdense than water

• Hot air balloons rise in Hot air balloons rise in the air because the warm the air because the warm air inside the balloon is air inside the balloon is less dense than the less dense than the surrounding airsurrounding air

http://www.flickr.com/photos/machielse/363855772/

Did you know?Did you know?

Human bodies Human bodies cannot sink in the cannot sink in the

Dead Sea Dead Sea because the water because the water

is so denseis so dense



urrents urrents

Continuous, directed movement of large streams of ocean waterContinuous, directed movement of large streams of ocean water Two major types of currents: Two major types of currents:

• Surface CurrentsSurface Currents• Form when surface winds push the water in the direction of the windForm when surface winds push the water in the direction of the wind

• Deep Ocean CurrentsDeep Ocean Currents• Huge water masses move and mix in response to changes in water Huge water masses move and mix in response to changes in water

temperature and salinitytemperature and salinity

Why are currents important?Why are currents important?• Currents influence the climate, shipCurrents influence the climate, ship

routes, and the lives of plants routes, and the lives of plants

and animals living on land and animals living on land

and in oceansand in oceans

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:The Gulf Stream is The Gulf Stream is

both a surface both a surface current and a deep current and a deep

ocean currentocean current

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:Surface currents Surface currents

affect the top 10% affect the top 10% of the oceanof the ocean

http://science.hq.nasa.gov/oceans/physical/OSC.html

Extension of CurrentsExtension of Currents Coriolis Effect - the earth’s rotation causes ocean currents to bendCoriolis Effect - the earth’s rotation causes ocean currents to bend

• Northern Hemisphere currents forced to the rightNorthern Hemisphere currents forced to the right

• Southern Hemisphere currents forced to the leftSouthern Hemisphere currents forced to the left

• Coriolis force is strongest at the Poles and weakest at the equatorCoriolis force is strongest at the Poles and weakest at the equator

• The bending angle of currents increases with ocean depthThe bending angle of currents increases with ocean depth

• A deep ocean current may flow in a direction different than the surface currentA deep ocean current may flow in a direction different than the surface current

Expected path of water without Coriolis Effect

Actual path of water with Coriolis Effect

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ensityensity

A measure of how heavy something is A measure of how heavy something is

in relation to its size (mass per unit volume)in relation to its size (mass per unit volume) Temperature and salinity affect the density of ocean waterTemperature and salinity affect the density of ocean water

• What is salinity?What is salinity?• A measure of the amount of salt dissolved in waterA measure of the amount of salt dissolved in water

16

Graph shows density of ocean waterGraph shows density of ocean water

based on salinity and temperaturebased on salinity and temperature Observations from graph:Observations from graph:

• An increase in temperature results in a An increase in temperature results in a

decrease in densitydecrease in density• An increase in salinity results in an An increase in salinity results in an

increase in densityincrease in density

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:All the land on earth All the land on earth would be covered would be covered

with 5 feet of salt, if with 5 feet of salt, if the ocean’s salt the ocean’s salt

content were driedcontent were dried



Extension of DensityExtension of Density Ocean density changes throughoutOcean density changes throughout

• Low density water can be found near the surfaceLow density water can be found near the surface• High density water can be found deep in the oceanHigh density water can be found deep in the ocean

Pycnocline – an ocean layer where water density Pycnocline – an ocean layer where water density

increases rapidly with depthincreases rapidly with depth Changes in the density of surface water:Changes in the density of surface water:

• If the density of the surface water decreasesIf the density of the surface water decreases• Its position will remain the sameIts position will remain the same

• If the surface water becomes more dense If the surface water becomes more dense

than the water belowthan the water below• It will sink to a level where there isIt will sink to a level where there is

water with the same densitywater with the same density

18

18

pipelagic Zonepipelagic Zone

Top layer of the ocean where Top layer of the ocean where

sunlight is presentsunlight is present Plants take in the sunlight to Plants take in the sunlight to

complete photosynthesiscomplete photosynthesis• The epipelagic zone is the only zone where plants are foundThe epipelagic zone is the only zone where plants are found

What can be found below the epipelagic zone?What can be found below the epipelagic zone?• The mesopelagic zone, or twilight zoneThe mesopelagic zone, or twilight zone

• The dim light found in this zone does not provide enough The dim light found in this zone does not provide enough energy for plants to perform photosynthesisenergy for plants to perform photosynthesis

• In the 3 zones that exist beyond this zone there is zero sunlightIn the 3 zones that exist beyond this zone there is zero sunlight

Epipelagic Zone

Mesopelagic Zone

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:Light penetrates Light penetrates

hundreds of feet in hundreds of feet in the Caribbean, but the Caribbean, but only a few inches in only a few inches in

the Hudson riverthe Hudson river

22

ood Chainood Chain A sequence of marine organisms that pass nutrients to A sequence of marine organisms that pass nutrients to

one anotherone another Sun - main source of energy for marine food chainsSun - main source of energy for marine food chains Producers take in the Sun’s energy to make their foodProducers take in the Sun’s energy to make their food

• Phytoplankton – major producers in the oceanPhytoplankton – major producers in the ocean Consumers eat other organisms since they cannot Consumers eat other organisms since they cannot

produce their own foodproduce their own food

Does pollution harm the food chain?Does pollution harm the food chain?• YesYes• If phytoplankton absorb marine pollutants, the pollutants If phytoplankton absorb marine pollutants, the pollutants

eventually accumulate to lethal levels in larger animalseventually accumulate to lethal levels in larger animals What is a food web?What is a food web?

• Several intertwined food chains resultant of organisms Several intertwined food chains resultant of organisms belonging to more than one food chainbelonging to more than one food chain

20

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:99% of earth’s 99% of earth’s living space is living space is contained by contained by the oceansthe oceans

ulf Streamulf Stream

A strong, warm water ocean currentA strong, warm water ocean current General flow of the Gulf Stream:General flow of the Gulf Stream:

• The current begins in the western Caribbean Sea, The current begins in the western Caribbean Sea,

passes through the Gulf of Mexico and the Straits passes through the Gulf of Mexico and the Straits

of Florida, and then flows along the North of Florida, and then flows along the North

American coast to northern European watersAmerican coast to northern European waters• The exact path the current takes changes dailyThe exact path the current takes changes daily

Example impact of the Gulf Stream:Example impact of the Gulf Stream: The current is about 80The current is about 80°°F near the Gulf of F near the Gulf of

MexicoMexico The Gulf Stream releases heat into the The Gulf Stream releases heat into the

atmosphere as it cools along its journeyatmosphere as it cools along its journey• Added heat in the atmosphere Added heat in the atmosphere

significantly warms Europesignificantly warms EuropeThe 1786 version of the Franklin-Folger map of the Gulf Stream

16

10Modern Map of the Gulf Stream

Did you know?Did you know?Benjamin Franklin Benjamin Franklin

named the Gulf named the Gulf StreamStream

Extension of Gulf StreamExtension of Gulf Stream The Gulf Stream flows at a rate of The Gulf Stream flows at a rate of

4 miles per hour (6.5 kilometers per hour)4 miles per hour (6.5 kilometers per hour) The strong current can be felt as deep The strong current can be felt as deep

as 1500 feet from the surfaceas 1500 feet from the surface Characteristics of the boundary between Characteristics of the boundary between

the Gulf Stream and the surrounding water:the Gulf Stream and the surrounding water:• The temperature is usually 11°F to 18The temperature is usually 11°F to 18°°F (6°C to 10°C) F (6°C to 10°C)

warmer than water surrounding the currentwarmer than water surrounding the current• The water within the Gulf Stream isThe water within the Gulf Stream is

warm and clear blue due to its lack warm and clear blue due to its lack

of nutrientsof nutrients• The water surrounding the Gulf Stream is The water surrounding the Gulf Stream is

cloudy green due to the large cloudy green due to the large

quantity of phytoplanktonquantity of phytoplankton

17

False-Color Image of

Temperature Data for Gulf Stream

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:The rate of flow in the The rate of flow in the

Gulf Stream at the Gulf Stream at the Straits of Florida is 300 Straits of Florida is 300 times the rate of flow in times the rate of flow in

the Amazon riverthe Amazon river

ydrophonesydrophones

Underwater microphones that record underwater soundUnderwater microphones that record underwater sound Sound in the ocean is produced mainly by:Sound in the ocean is produced mainly by:

• Bubbles created from breaking waves and falling rainBubbles created from breaking waves and falling rain• The engine and propellers of shipsThe engine and propellers of ships• Marine mammals like whales and dolphinsMarine mammals like whales and dolphins

Why do scientists record the sound of rain falling on the water?Why do scientists record the sound of rain falling on the water?• To measure and understand global rainfall patternsTo measure and understand global rainfall patterns• Rain is a very important part of climateRain is a very important part of climate

• The measurements help meteorologists, oceanographers, and The measurements help meteorologists, oceanographers, and scientists in their study of the climatescientists in their study of the climate

Image from Brüel & Kjær Sound & Vibration Measurement A/S http://www.bksv.com/pdf/Bp0317.pdf


nertianertia

The property of an object to remain at a constant velocity (speed) unless acted The property of an object to remain at a constant velocity (speed) unless acted on by an outside forceon by an outside force

The ocean has a high temperature and momentum inertia in comparison to the The ocean has a high temperature and momentum inertia in comparison to the atmosphereatmosphere

Example of oceanic vs. atmospheric inertia:Example of oceanic vs. atmospheric inertia:• Circulation in the ocean occurs at a slow rateCirculation in the ocean occurs at a slow rate

• Changes occur over months, years, decades, Changes occur over months, years, decades, and centuriesand centuries

• Atmospheric weather systems form and breakAtmospheric weather systems form and break

apart within a single dayapart within a single day• Changes occur over seconds, minutes, hours, Changes occur over seconds, minutes, hours,

and daysand days

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:Inertia is Sir Inertia is Sir

Isaac Newton’s Isaac Newton’s 11stst Law of Law of

MotionMotion


Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art

ason-1ason-1

Why do oceanographers use altimeters?Why do oceanographers use altimeters?• Detect and monitor ocean currentsDetect and monitor ocean currents• Tide monitoring modelingTide monitoring modeling

Oceanographers need to be able to study Oceanographers need to be able to study all of the worlds’ oceans to understand all of the worlds’ oceans to understand their impact on our weather and climatetheir impact on our weather and climatehttp://science.hq.nasa.gov/oceans/physical/OST.html

Jason-1 is an Earth-orbiting satellite used Jason-1 is an Earth-orbiting satellite used for ocean surveillancefor ocean surveillance

• Launched in December 2001Launched in December 2001 Radar altimeters on Jason-1 measure sea Radar altimeters on Jason-1 measure sea

level:level:• Microwave signals are sent by the Microwave signals are sent by the

altimeter to the ocean’s surfacealtimeter to the ocean’s surface• The length of time it takes the signal to The length of time it takes the signal to

travel down to the surface and back is travel down to the surface and back is recordedrecorded

• Scientists use this information and the Scientists use this information and the satellite’s location to determine sea levelsatellite’s location to determine sea level

http://lennthompson.typepad.com/lenndevours/miscellaneous_sips/index.html

Extension of Jason-1Extension of Jason-1 In order to mathematically determine the distance from the satellite to the ocean In order to mathematically determine the distance from the satellite to the ocean

surface:surface:• Divide the total time by two and multiply by the speed of light (c ≈ 3 x 10Divide the total time by two and multiply by the speed of light (c ≈ 3 x 1088) )

Water vapor in the air can cause Jason-1 to overestimate the distance from the Water vapor in the air can cause Jason-1 to overestimate the distance from the

satellite to the ocean’s surface by as much as 10 centimeterssatellite to the ocean’s surface by as much as 10 centimeters• Jason-1 listens to the radio waves produced by the clouds and the ocean, to Jason-1 listens to the radio waves produced by the clouds and the ocean, to

determine the amount of water vapor in the air and correct for the errordetermine the amount of water vapor in the air and correct for the error

Jason-1 is able to complete its entire process and Jason-1 is able to complete its entire process and

transmit the data back to earth within 3 hourstransmit the data back to earth within 3 hours

http://www.flickr.com/photos/umpqua/96624719/

Did you know?Did you know?If Jason-1 was flying at If Jason-1 was flying at

35,000 feet35,000 feet (like a (like a

jetliner), it could jetliner), it could measure the thickness measure the thickness

of a dimeof a dime


notnot

How did early sailors use a knot to measure the speed of a ship?How did early sailors use a knot to measure the speed of a ship?• Knots were tied at regular intervals along a rope and a log was attached to the endKnots were tied at regular intervals along a rope and a log was attached to the end• The rope was thrown overboard and the log floated along behind the moving shipThe rope was thrown overboard and the log floated along behind the moving ship• A sailor counted the number of knots that passed through his hands during a A sailor counted the number of knots that passed through his hands during a

specified amount of timespecified amount of time• The more knots that passed through the sailors hands, the faster the ship was The more knots that passed through the sailors hands, the faster the ship was

movingmoving The term knot continues to be used today to measure a ship’s speedThe term knot continues to be used today to measure a ship’s speed

A knot is a nautical mile per hourA knot is a nautical mile per hour• A nautical mile equals 6,076 feet or 1,823 metersA nautical mile equals 6,076 feet or 1,823 meters

1 knot is equal to 1.15 miles per hour (mph) or 1 knot is equal to 1.15 miles per hour (mph) or 1.85 kilometers per hour (kph)1.85 kilometers per hour (kph)

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:Most cruise ships Most cruise ships

travel at a travel at a maximum speed maximum speed

of 22 knots or of 22 knots or 25.3 mph 25.3 mph

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tcd123/743633948/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/lyng883/329639190/

ead Lineead LineLead Line

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echo_sounding

A long piece of rope that had a lead weight tied at A long piece of rope that had a lead weight tied at one end and markings in six foot intervalsone end and markings in six foot intervals

• The weight was thrown into the oceanThe weight was thrown into the ocean• Measurements were taken by noting how much line Measurements were taken by noting how much line

went into the ocean until the lead reached the bottomwent into the ocean until the lead reached the bottom

Lead lines were used by early sailors to determine:Lead lines were used by early sailors to determine:• Ocean depth at certain points along a journeyOcean depth at certain points along a journey

What is currently used to measure ocean depth?What is currently used to measure ocean depth?• Echo sounders provide oceanographers with a Echo sounders provide oceanographers with a

graphical view of the sea floorgraphical view of the sea floor

http://celebrating200years.noaa.gov/transformations/hydrography/side.html

Echo Sounder

Extension of Lead LineExtension of Lead Line How do echo sounders measure sea level?How do echo sounders measure sea level?

• A pulse of sound energy is sent toward the bottom A pulse of sound energy is sent toward the bottom

of the oceanof the ocean• Sound disturbs water as it travels through it, Sound disturbs water as it travels through it,

creating sound wavescreating sound waves• The amount of time it takes the pulse to travel to the The amount of time it takes the pulse to travel to the

bottom and back up to the surface is recorded and bottom and back up to the surface is recorded and

the depth of the water is then calculatedthe depth of the water is then calculated

Sound waves are the most efficient signal in sensingSound waves are the most efficient signal in sensing

the ocean below a depth of a few 10’s of meters the ocean below a depth of a few 10’s of meters The average speed of sound in water isThe average speed of sound in water is

1500 meters per second1500 meters per second• Applies to ocean water free of air bubblesApplies to ocean water free of air bubbles• Speed of sound in water is dependent on:Speed of sound in water is dependent on:

• Depth of ocean waterDepth of ocean water• TemperatureTemperature• SalinitySalinity

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Graph of the Speed of Sound (C) at various depths of the ocean

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:The speed of The speed of

sound in water is sound in water is 4 times faster 4 times faster

than the speed of than the speed of sound in airsound in air

eteorologyeteorology

The physics, chemistry, and unique processes of Earth’s atmosphere are The physics, chemistry, and unique processes of Earth’s atmosphere are explored in great detail by meteorologistsexplored in great detail by meteorologists

• Meteorologists try to completely understand the atmosphere, so they can predict Meteorologists try to completely understand the atmosphere, so they can predict how it is going to behavehow it is going to behave

Meteorology is the study of the Meteorology is the study of the atmosphere and the interaction atmosphere and the interaction between the atmosphere and the between the atmosphere and the land, ocean, and lifeland, ocean, and life


Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art

umerical Modelsumerical Models

Mathematical calculations that provide oceanographers Mathematical calculations that provide oceanographers with detailed views of circulation in the oceanswith detailed views of circulation in the oceans

Two main types of numerical models:Two main types of numerical models:• Mechanistic models – simplified models that examine the Mechanistic models – simplified models that examine the

mathematics behind physical processesmathematics behind physical processes• Simulation models – complex models that can be used to Simulation models – complex models that can be used to

calculate the realistic flow in the oceancalculate the realistic flow in the ocean

What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of using numerical models?What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of using numerical models?• Advantage:Advantage:

• The models can be used to simulate realistic flow and predict future flow in the The models can be used to simulate realistic flow and predict future flow in the oceanocean

• Disadvantage:Disadvantage:• The models cannot give completely accurate descriptions of the flow in the oceanThe models cannot give completely accurate descriptions of the flow in the ocean


ceancean

A large body of salt waterA large body of salt water Millions of years ago Earth’s surface was very hot and all the water boiled awayMillions of years ago Earth’s surface was very hot and all the water boiled away

• Volcanoes released large amounts of steam into the atmosphereVolcanoes released large amounts of steam into the atmosphere• As Earth cooled, the steam changed to water vapor, and condensed to raindropsAs Earth cooled, the steam changed to water vapor, and condensed to raindrops• Rain fell thousands of years filling all the cracks on Earth with ocean waterRain fell thousands of years filling all the cracks on Earth with ocean water

http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:71% of Earth’s 71% of Earth’s

surface is surface is covered by covered by

oceansoceans

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:The average The average depth of the depth of the

ocean is 3.7 km ocean is 3.7 km (about 2 miles)(about 2 miles)

Did you know?Did you know?The pressure at the The pressure at the deepest point in the deepest point in the

ocean is equivalent to ocean is equivalent to 1 person trying to 1 person trying to hold 50 jumbo jetshold 50 jumbo jets

What impact does air-sea interaction have on Earth?What impact does air-sea interaction have on Earth?• The ocean constantly interacts with the atmosphere, exchanging The ocean constantly interacts with the atmosphere, exchanging

heat, moisture, and carbon dioxide (COheat, moisture, and carbon dioxide (CO22))• The air-sea interaction drives our weather The air-sea interaction drives our weather patterns and influences the slowly patterns and influences the slowly occurring but dramatic changes in occurring but dramatic changes in our climateour climate

hytoplanktonhytoplankton

Microscopic, single-celled marine plants that Microscopic, single-celled marine plants that

need water, COneed water, CO22, sunlight, and chemical nutrients to grow, sunlight, and chemical nutrients to grow Phytoplankton use a pigment called chlorophyll to capture sunlight during Phytoplankton use a pigment called chlorophyll to capture sunlight during

photosynthesisphotosynthesis• They decrease the amount of sunlight that reaches deeper waterThey decrease the amount of sunlight that reaches deeper water

• Confines oceanic heating to a small layerConfines oceanic heating to a small layer

Why are phytoplankton important?Why are phytoplankton important?• Approximately half of the oxygen we breatheApproximately half of the oxygen we breathe is produced by phytoplanktonis produced by phytoplankton• They take in COThey take in CO22 from the atmosphere at the from the atmosphere at the

same rate as land plantssame rate as land plants• All marine life is dependent upon the quantity All marine life is dependent upon the quantity of phytoplankton availableof phytoplankton available

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dodeckahedron/132430686/

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:On a favorable day, On a favorable day,

phytoplankton phytoplankton concentration may concentration may

increase by as much increase by as much as 300%as 300%

Extension of PhytoplanktonExtension of Phytoplankton Currents can usually be traced by their supply of phytoplanktonCurrents can usually be traced by their supply of phytoplankton Scientists use satellites to remotely observe chlorophyll, which is contained in the Scientists use satellites to remotely observe chlorophyll, which is contained in the

phytoplanktonphytoplankton• The images tell them:The images tell them:

• How much phytoplankton is present in the oceanHow much phytoplankton is present in the ocean• Where they are locatedWhere they are located• How much work they are performingHow much work they are performing• How their populations are changingHow their populations are changing

On Earth, humans can observe the phytoplanktonOn Earth, humans can observe the phytoplankton

present in lakes and oceanspresent in lakes and oceans• Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light

and reflects green lightand reflects green light• A water source that appears green in A water source that appears green in

color most likely contains some phytoplanktoncolor most likely contains some phytoplankton

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:On a favorable day, On a favorable day, 20,000 specimens of 20,000 specimens of

phytoplankton may be phytoplankton may be contained in 1 ftcontained in 1 ft33 of of

ocean waterocean water


uikSCATuikSCAT

A satellite NASA uses to create an A satellite NASA uses to create an image of the surface winds on Earthimage of the surface winds on Earth

The QuikSCAT satellite carries a The QuikSCAT satellite carries a SeaWinds scatterometerSeaWinds scatterometer

• A scatterometer is a microwave radar A scatterometer is a microwave radar that can measure near-surface wind that can measure near-surface wind speed and direction over the ocean speed and direction over the ocean under any weather conditionsunder any weather conditions

Why are scatterometers useful?Why are scatterometers useful?• They are giving meteorologists:They are giving meteorologists:

• More accurate measurements of More accurate measurements of the winds associated with stormsthe winds associated with storms

• Advanced warning of high waves Advanced warning of high waves and floodingand flooding

http://science.hq.nasa.gov/

ainain

Precipitation that falls from clouds toward Earth’s surface Precipitation that falls from clouds toward Earth’s surface Rain is an important part of the climateRain is an important part of the climate

• The latent heat released into the atmosphere upon the formation of raindrops is a The latent heat released into the atmosphere upon the formation of raindrops is a significant form of energy that drives circulation in the atmospheresignificant form of energy that drives circulation in the atmosphere

Why do meteorologists, oceanographers, and climate scientists find it important Why do meteorologists, oceanographers, and climate scientists find it important to measure rainfall patterns? to measure rainfall patterns?

• Scientists suspect that after rainfall the layers of fresh water at the Scientists suspect that after rainfall the layers of fresh water at the surface of the ocean affect circulation in the oceansurface of the ocean affect circulation in the ocean• Rainfall appears to calm the seasRainfall appears to calm the seas

• Scientists question impact of rainfall on ocean dampingScientists question impact of rainfall on ocean damping

http://www.flickr.com/photos/viewthis/521909936/

Did you know?Did you know?Falling drops of Falling drops of rain are not tear-rain are not tear-

shapedshaped

Extension of RainExtension of Rain Drizzle – water droplets with a diameter less than 0.5 millimeters (mm)Drizzle – water droplets with a diameter less than 0.5 millimeters (mm) Rain – water droplets with a diameter greater than or equal to 0.5 mm Rain – water droplets with a diameter greater than or equal to 0.5 mm The diameter of a raindrop that reaches Earth’s surface is usually no greater The diameter of a raindrop that reaches Earth’s surface is usually no greater

than 6 mmthan 6 mm The shape of a raindrop is dependent on its size:The shape of a raindrop is dependent on its size:

• Almost spherical – raindrops less than 2 mm in diameterAlmost spherical – raindrops less than 2 mm in diameter• Surface tension squeezes the drop into a sphere because Surface tension squeezes the drop into a sphere because

spheres have the smallest surface area for their total volumespheres have the smallest surface area for their total volume• Flattened bottom, rounded top – raindrops with diameters bigger than 2 mmFlattened bottom, rounded top – raindrops with diameters bigger than 2 mm

• Larger air pressure on the drop as it falls, flattens the bottom, while lower Larger air pressure on the drop as it falls, flattens the bottom, while lower

air pressure on the sides of the drop allows the sides to expandair pressure on the sides of the drop allows the sides to expand

Diameter

1

ea Sprayea Spray

There are two types:There are two types:• Film or jet droplets – bubbles in the ocean Film or jet droplets – bubbles in the ocean

rise to the surface and burst, releasing rise to the surface and burst, releasing water droplets into the airwater droplets into the air

• Spume droplets – the wind is strong Spume droplets – the wind is strong enough to tear off water particles from the enough to tear off water particles from the tops of wavestops of waves

How does sea spray impact the earth?How does sea spray impact the earth?• Once sea spray becomes airborne, the particles scatter radiation and Once sea spray becomes airborne, the particles scatter radiation and

transfer heat, momentum, and moisture to and from the atmospheretransfer heat, momentum, and moisture to and from the atmosphere• If the sea spray evaporates entirely, sea salt particles If the sea spray evaporates entirely, sea salt particles

are left in the airare left in the air• The particles act as nuclei for clouds and fog to formThe particles act as nuclei for clouds and fog to form• They impact Earth’s annual heat budgetThey impact Earth’s annual heat budget

Sea Spray

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49827759@N00/98131368/

Fast Fact:Fast Fact:Sea salt particles Sea salt particles

make up 90% of the make up 90% of the marine aerosols in the marine aerosols in the

Atmospheric Atmospheric Boundary LayerBoundary Layer

Extension of Sea SprayExtension of Sea Spray 1000 micrometers = 1 millimeter1000 micrometers = 1 millimeter

Radius of film or jet droplets: ranges from approximately 1 to 10 Radius of film or jet droplets: ranges from approximately 1 to 10

micrometersmicrometers Radius of spume droplets: ranges from approximately 10 to 1000 Radius of spume droplets: ranges from approximately 10 to 1000

micrometersmicrometers

Radius

http://science.nhmccd.edu/biol/dropdrag/superimposed.htm

1 millimeterOR

1000 micrometers

The radius of a circle:The radius of a circle:

The regular rise and fall of the ocean watersThe regular rise and fall of the ocean waters• Caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun, and the rotation of EarthCaused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun, and the rotation of Earth• The rising of Earth’s surface is called high tide, or flood tideThe rising of Earth’s surface is called high tide, or flood tide• The centrifugal force away from the moon leaves the water on the side opposite to the The centrifugal force away from the moon leaves the water on the side opposite to the

Moon to form another high tideMoon to form another high tide• Low tides, or ebb tides, are the portions of the tidal cycle between high tidesLow tides, or ebb tides, are the portions of the tidal cycle between high tides

idesides

High Tide

High Tide

Low Tide

Low Tide

Gravitational

Pull

Did you know?Did you know?Tides do not Tides do not

actually “rise”, actually “rise”, rather Earth rotates rather Earth rotates

into tidesinto tides

What impacts the time tides occur each day?What impacts the time tides occur each day?• The combination of Earth’s rotation and the Moon’s orbitThe combination of Earth’s rotation and the Moon’s orbit• If the Moon did not rotate around Earth, the tides would If the Moon did not rotate around Earth, the tides would

occur at the same time every dayoccur at the same time every day


Extension of TidesExtension of Tides The rise and fall of the tides is periodicThe rise and fall of the tides is periodic

• Periodic – occurring in regular cyclesPeriodic – occurring in regular cycles There are three types of tides:There are three types of tides:

• Semidiurnal Tides:Semidiurnal Tides:• Produce two high tides and two low Produce two high tides and two low

tides during a 24 hour period (1 day)tides during a 24 hour period (1 day)• Diurnal Tides:Diurnal Tides:

• Produce one high tide and one low Produce one high tide and one low

tide during a 24 hour period (1 day)tide during a 24 hour period (1 day)• Mixed Tides:Mixed Tides:

• Produce two high tides and two low Produce two high tides and two low

tides during a 24 hour period (1 day)tides during a 24 hour period (1 day)• There are great differences between the There are great differences between the

heights of the high tides and the low tidesheights of the high tides and the low tides

To the right are tide curves for the threeTo the right are tide curves for the three

common types of tidescommon types of tides• Curves show tidal patterns during a 48 hourCurves show tidal patterns during a 48 hour

period (2 days) at various locations aroundperiod (2 days) at various locations around

North AmericaNorth America4

4

4

Coastal Upwelling - occurs when winds blow with the shore on the leftCoastal Upwelling - occurs when winds blow with the shore on the left• Surface water is pushed away from the beach and deep, nutrient-rich, cold ocean Surface water is pushed away from the beach and deep, nutrient-rich, cold ocean

water rises in its placewater rises in its place Coastal Downwelling - when winds blow with the shore on the rightCoastal Downwelling - when winds blow with the shore on the right

• Surface water is pushed toward the beach, forced downward, and then out to seaSurface water is pushed toward the beach, forced downward, and then out to sea

pwellingpwelling

Northern Hemisphere: ocean water moves 90Northern Hemisphere: ocean water moves 90°° to right of wind to right of wind Southern Hemisphere: ocean water moves 90Southern Hemisphere: ocean water moves 90°° to left of wind to left of wind

Downwelling

Wind out of the South

Upwelling

Wind out of the North

Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling in the Northern Hemisphere

Vertical movement of water from Vertical movement of water from

the ocean floor up to the surfacethe ocean floor up to the surface

ector Wind Stressector Wind Stress

The horizontal force per area The horizontal force per area of wind on the ocean surfaceof wind on the ocean surface

Vector wind stress impacts:Vector wind stress impacts:• Generation of wavesGeneration of waves• Movement of surface Movement of surface

currentscurrents

How does vector wind stress How does vector wind stress impact air-sea interaction?impact air-sea interaction?

• Through wind stress the Through wind stress the atmosphere is able to atmosphere is able to transfer momentum to the transfer momentum to the oceanocean http://www.pfeg.noaa.gov/products/las/sample_gifs.html

avesaves

As wind passes over the water, friction between As wind passes over the water, friction between the air and the water causes the water to ripplethe air and the water causes the water to ripple

Characteristics of waves:Characteristics of waves:• Period – time for two crests or troughs to pass a pointPeriod – time for two crests or troughs to pass a point• Wave frequency – number of waves that pass a point Wave frequency – number of waves that pass a point

in one secondin one second

What determines the size of waves?What determines the size of waves?• How fast the wind is blowingHow fast the wind is blowing• How far the wind blowsHow far the wind blows• How long the wind blowsHow long the wind blows

20

Did you know?Did you know?A wave does not A wave does not move water, only move water, only

energy moves energy moves forwardforward


Extension of WavesExtension of Waves As a wave passes, water particles lift up, move As a wave passes, water particles lift up, move

forward with the wave’s crest, and then sink down forward with the wave’s crest, and then sink down

and move backward with the wave’s troughand move backward with the wave’s trough When water particles in the trough hit the sand, When water particles in the trough hit the sand,

friction causes them to slow down, but the water friction causes them to slow down, but the water

particles in the crest do not slow downparticles in the crest do not slow down When the water in the crest gets too far ahead When the water in the crest gets too far ahead

for the trough to be able to support it, a breaker for the trough to be able to support it, a breaker

forms, which is a wave where the crest crashes forms, which is a wave where the crest crashes

on top of the troughon top of the trough

20

Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art Image from Microsoft Office Clip Art

Heat FluHeat Flu The passing of heat through The passing of heat through

or across a surfaceor across a surface• The heat flux within shallow The heat flux within shallow

layers is much greater than layers is much greater than

within deep layers of the within deep layers of the

oceanocean

16

The mean annual radiation and heat balance of Earth

Example of the importance Example of the importance

of heat flux to Earth:of heat flux to Earth:• Earth must maintain an Earth must maintain an

annual balance between the annual balance between the

amount of heat absorbed by amount of heat absorbed by

its surface and released its surface and released

back into the atmosphereback into the atmosphere

W m-2 (watts per square meter) is the unit used to represent

the power per square area that comes from the sun


OceanographOceanograph

Scientific study and exploration of the oceansScientific study and exploration of the oceans• Dependent on physics, chemistry, biology, geology, and meteorologyDependent on physics, chemistry, biology, geology, and meteorology• Covers a wide range of topics: Covers a wide range of topics:

• currents, waves, tides, marine organisms, ocean floor, etc.currents, waves, tides, marine organisms, ocean floor, etc. Oceanographers must be able to apply knowledge from various branches of Oceanographers must be able to apply knowledge from various branches of

study to truly understand and be able to explain the behavior of the ocean study to truly understand and be able to explain the behavior of the ocean environmentenvironment

Is there more than one type of oceanography?Is there more than one type of oceanography?• YesYes• Biological oceanography (Marine biology) – study of marine Biological oceanography (Marine biology) – study of marine plants and animalsplants and animals• Chemical oceanography – study of the chemistry of the ocean Chemical oceanography – study of the chemistry of the ocean and ocean floorand ocean floor• Geological oceanography – study of the ocean floorGeological oceanography – study of the ocean floor• Physical oceanography – study of ocean processes and air-sea Physical oceanography – study of ocean processes and air-sea interactionsinteractions



ooplanktonooplankton

Micro- or macroscopic animals that drift in the oceanMicro- or macroscopic animals that drift in the ocean Zooplankton can live at any ocean depthZooplankton can live at any ocean depth In comparison to any other animal, zooplankton have the greatest quantity In comparison to any other animal, zooplankton have the greatest quantity

spread over the largest areaspread over the largest area• Typically found near large quantities of phytoplanktonTypically found near large quantities of phytoplankton• Concentrated in areas of upwellingConcentrated in areas of upwelling

Why are zooplankton important?Why are zooplankton important?

• They are a stable source of food They are a stable source of food

for many larger animalsfor many larger animals

Zooplankton

http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulgalipeau/834103339/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kervinchong/498036786/

Copepod

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from http://www.onr.navy.mil/focus/ocean/default.htmfrom http://www.onr.navy.mil/focus/ocean/default.htm15. Program 1: The Who? What? Where? How? And Why’s? of Plankton. (1997, Fall). 15. Program 1: The Who? What? Where? How? And Why’s? of Plankton. (1997, Fall).

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21. Tarbuck, E. J. & Lutgens, F. K. (2003). 21. Tarbuck, E. J. & Lutgens, F. K. (2003). Earth ScienceEarth Science (10th ed.). New Jersey: Pearson (10th ed.). New Jersey: Pearson Education.Education.

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Extension of ReferencesExtension of References

LEEANNE HAZZARDLEEANNE HAZZARD is a senior is a senior at Elizabethtown College, where at Elizabethtown College, where she is working on her Secondary she is working on her Secondary Mathematics certification. Mathematics certification. Leeanne created this ABC’s to Leeanne created this ABC’s to Oceanography booklet as part of Oceanography booklet as part of the Oceanography Outreach the Oceanography Outreach Project she designed during a Project she designed during a REU Summer Internship.REU Summer Internship.

Created by Leeanne Hazzard & Fabrice Veron, 2007Created by Leeanne Hazzard & Fabrice Veron, 2007Air-Sea Interaction Laboratory Air-Sea Interaction Laboratory

College of Marine and Earth StudiesCollege of Marine and Earth StudiesUniversity of DelawareUniversity of Delaware

abc’s to oceanography

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