50 quick home improvements

8/6/2019 50 Quick Home Improvements

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Editor: Karen K.JohnsonWriters: Sharon Ross and Dave Toht

Illustrators: Tony Davis, Brian Jensen, and Pamela W<lHennmker

Meredith, BooksDes Moines, Iowa



Onho® BooksAn imprint of Meredith® Books

Onho's 50 Quick Home Impl"OtIementsSolaris Book Development T earnPublisher: Robert B. LoperenaEditorral Director: Chr istine JordanManaging Editor: Sally W. SmithAcquis itions Editors: Robert]' Beckstrom,

Michael D. SmithPublisher's Assis tant: Joni ChristiansenGraphics Coordinator: Sally J. FrenchEditorial Coordinator: Cass DempseyPr<Xluction Manager: linda Bouchard

Meredith Book Development TeamProject Editor: Larry EricksonAn Director. Tom WegnerCopy Chief: Catherine HamrickCopy and Production Editor: Tern FredricksonConrributing Proofreader: Debra Morns SmithElectronic Production Coordinator: Paula ForestEdltorial and Design Assistants: Judy Bailey, Kaye Chabot,

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Additional Editorial Contributions fromGreenleaf Publishing

Publishing Director: Dave TohrAssociate Editor: Steve CoryAssis tant Editor: Rebecca JonMichael.sEditorial An Director. Jean DeVarvDesign: Melanie Lawson Designillustrations: Tony DavisAdditional Photography: Dan StultzTechnical Consultant: Michael Clark

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Additional PhotographersEd Gohlich: 72John North Holtorf: coverJon Jensen: 54Jennifer Jordan: 4, 24

All of us at Onho® Books are dedicated to providing youwich the information and ideas you need to enhance yourhome and garden. We welcome your comments andsuggestions about thIS book. Wrile to us at:Meredith CorporationOrtho Books1716 Locust Sr.Des MOines, lA 50309-3023

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Copyright © 1998 The Scorrs CompanySome text, photography. and artwork © copyright 1998

Meredith CorporationAll rights reserved. Printed in the Unired Scates of America.First Ediuon. Printing Number and Year:

54 020100Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 97-76217ISBN: 0-89721-417-XAI! r ights reserved.

Note to the Readers: Due to differing conditions, tools,and individual skills, Meredith Corporation assumes noresponsibili tv for any damages. mjuries suffered, or lossesincurred as a result of following the inforrnarion pubirshedIn this book. Before beginning any project, review theinstructions carefully, and if any doubts or questions remain,consul t local experts or authorities. Because codes andregulations vary greatly, you always should check withaurhorrries to ensure that your project complies with allapplicable local codes and regulations. Always read andobserve all of the safety precautions provided bymanufacturers of any tools, equipment, or supplies,

and follow all accepted safery procedures .

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CONTENTS

WELCOMING ROOMS 4

Tile an Entryway 6

Add a Hall Shelf 9

Upgrade wilh Moldings 10'

Crown a . Room Regally 12

Install Recessed Lights 14

Color-Wash a Wall 16Change into Stripes 18

Brighten Wood Paneling and Paint a FI,oo! Pattern 20

Step uvely on Stencils 1.2

WORKING ROOMS 24

Paint Cabinets , Change Hardware 26

Tile a Backsplash 28Add Undercabinet Fluorescent Light ing '30

Instal l Halogen Undercabinet Light ing 32

Add Undercabinel Accessories 33.

Hang a Pot Rack 34

Cabinet Racks 35

Cabinet Slide-Outs and Drawers 36'

Repair a Drawer ·37

Built-In Ironing Center 38

Add a Cabinet-End Book Rack 40

Romanticize a Claw-Foot T ub 41

Fit Bathroom Shelves Between Studs ,42'

Ins ta ll a Medicine Cabinet 44

Refinish a Tub 46Replace a Faucet 48

Install a New Vanity 50

PERSONAL ROOMS 52

Border on Perfection 54Paint with Sponges 56

Rag-Ran a Wall 58

Decorale by Spat tering and Dragging 60

Create a Stenciled Canva s Floorcloth 62

Add a Ceiling Fan 64Find Hidden Space in a S ma ll C los et 66

Maximize a Large Closet 68

Reflect on a Door Mirror '70Hang Adjustable Shelves 71

CURB ApPEAL 72

Add an Entry Trellis 74Trim an Entry Door 76

Build a Split-Rail Gateway 78

Install Landscape Lights 80

Erect an Easy Arbor 82

Add a Stone-Bordered or Timber Flower Bed 84

Buiid a Patio Flower Box 86

Hang a Flower Basket 87

Create a Pathway with Stepping Stones 88

Put Up a Lattice Privacy Screen 90

Make, Shutters and Window Boxes '92

Tile Over a Concrete Slab 94



4 rWsU;OMING ROOMS'

With e little eitort, you can dress, up your ,entryWav. and living roomto extend a 'Warm;,person,s" welcome. :Molding, tile, and paint~rojects look <terrific,and they're easier than most people ,expect.



Most homes, whe th er new

or old, havemorn fo r

im provem .enr. O ften a

sm all ch ange, such as

culdingshelves 01 ' painting

a wall in a new way,

can make a swpTis l:ngdifference. SuddenJ)" ) 'our

hm ne ismore ausactioe ,

f!·tnctl:otwl,and

comfcmable.And mos t

Jrroject.:irequite only a litde

money, some elbow grease,

and a weekend or two.

This book [eatures 50

re/ativel)1 inext)en.sl:~!eprojects th at a cI d s t) 'ie ,

con-'vcnience) and ease to

a hom e. Theyrange from

slJntcing up room s ,with

(rim moldings to boosting

the c f{ ic ienc) 'of a closet.

The bool<begins wifh

fresh, fun ideas for

upclQ[i-ngpublicTOoms-

rh e entryw ay, livingroom,

family room , and dining

room. Then i t offers home

,:mpro,vementrij)s fo r [he

kitcheTland batlwooms, the

bedroom s) and, final!)', rhe

exte rio r o fyour home.

IN TH'S CHAPTER

T ile an EntrywA do ' a H alj S h

Upgrade w

!VioldingC rown a R

Regallyinstall necess

Lights

Color Wash a Vi / a

Change iniO StripesBrigilten W

PanelingP ain t a F lo or P atlem

Step L iv elStencils



6 WELCDMING ROOMS

T 1 L E :ANENTRYWAY

Ceramic tile--an attractive, durable, andeasy-care floor-will lendsophistication (Q an entryway

previously floored with sheet vinyl or vinyl

tiles. You also can lise tile to dress upa kitchen or bathroom floor.The floor must besolid, or tiles willcrack in time.If you feel thefloor springing asyou jump on it,take steps [Q

strengthen it;adding alayer of )1-inchplywood may dothe trick. At the

same time, makesure that yourfuture tile surfacewill not be morethan)1 inchhigher thanany other floorsurface that itabuts, or the stepdown will lookawkward. Oncethe subsurface issound, it willtake two days totile a typicalen cryway.

A ceramic tile

entry floor willadd style toyour home

and give you 8

long-lastingsurlace that is8asy to clean.

\measuring

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS . : tile (buy an additional

15 percent to allow for waste), grout;thin-set mortar or floor tile adhesive(consult a dealer for theebest product for

your situation); plastic tile spacers(choose your grout width); thresholds;sheets of plywood subtlooring: 6d nailsor l%'-inch screws, if needed.

TOOLS: broad knife or other scrapingtool; hand or power sander; tapemeasure; chalk line; long straightedge;tile curter; notched trowel (ask dealer forright size for your material); tile cutter;tile nippers; framing square; knee pads orkneeling pad; rubber mallet; flat 3-foot-square piece of plywood; sponge;laminated grout float; rags.

PREPARE THE FLOOR

You can install ceramic die directly over anyclean, dry, level surface in sound condition.But to keep the floor from getting roo high,you will want to rip up the existing flooring, ifpossible. If your existing floor is old linoleum,it may well contain asbestos, and you shouldleave it in place. Asbestos is not harmfulwhen encased in a solid material in soundcondition, bur you risk releasing the fibers

into the air if you remove it. '"Remove existing

thresholds, as

The mostvisible wall



well as the base shoe or baseboards. You mayneed to cut your door. Ask a tile dealer todetermine whether or not you need plywoodunderlaymenr and ro recommendthe correct primer, adhesive, and grout (oryour floor.

Scrape the floor as clean as possiblewith a broad knife. Sand down ridgesand rough up any glossy surface.Vacuum the debris and damp-mopthe floor ro remove all traces of dust.If you are installing a newunderlavment, apply constructionadhesive to the back, lay it down,and nail or screw it in place every3 to 4 inches around the perimeterand every 6 to 12 inches along eachfloor joist. Allow 'I.-inch expansionjoints between the underlaymenr andthe wall. Cover [he wood. includingthe edges, with the recommended

primer and then fill the Joints withsetting material.

LAy OUT THE JlOB

Find the center of the floor bymeasuring the halfway mark on eachwall. Snap cbalk lines between thecenters on opposite walls. The linesshould cross at true 90-degree angles.Check with a framing square to be sure.Lay test rows of dry tiles along the chalklines in ali (our directions, allowing for thespaces between the tiles. If the spacebetween the wall and the last tile is less thanhalf a tile on each end. adjust the layout soyou have a full tile on one end and a largerpartial rile on the other.

Check to see if your room is square. If not,there will be at least one wall where the tileswill be narrower at one end than at the other.Plan so that this happens on a wall that is notvery visible. Or split the difference so thattwo or more walis have riles that vary inwidth but nor by very much.

Snap chalk layout lines that are perfecrlvsquare to each other. Plan so that you can

finish (he job in one day; remember not tostep or kneel on tiles until rhey have fullyset. Usually, the best course is to start in onecorner and work outward, pyramid fashion.To make sure that you have a straight line, lay

, a long straightedge on the floor and weight itdown so it will not move if you bump it.

MIX AND SPREADTHE ADHESIVE

Depending on your tile and your subsurface,you may be able to use premixed floor tileadhesive. Chances are, however, that your

WELCOMING ROOMS

dealer will recommend a dry-mix thin-setmortar or adhesive. One type has latexadditives in the dry mix, so you need to addonly water. The rype that requires adding aliquid latex will be more expensive butstronger.

Set tiles straight down: Don't slide them in

place. With a pattern like this, set spacers

upright in the grout line. Note: With tiles that

meet corner to corner, lay spacers f lat.

Notched t rowel heldat a 45-degree angle

Set the ti leswith a scrap of wood

and a rubber mallet

Mix according to directions-e-usuallv to aroorhpastelike consistency, wait 10 minutes,then stir again. For a small job, you can dothis by hand, bur if you have a lot of mixingto do, use a mixing attachment on a drill.

Scoop the adhesive Onto the floor with anotched trowel. Holding the trowel at a45-degree angle, spread the adhesive up to butnor over the chalk lines. Cover an area thatyou can finish in 20 to 30 minutes.

SET THE TILE

Set each rile straight down with a slighttwisting motion. Do nor slide it into place.Then press firmly into place with your handsand tap with a rubber mallet to set. As youwork, make Sure the tiles are level with oneanother. (Grout will not mask unevennessbut will actually make it more apparentthan it is uow.)

Keep everything clean as you work. Wipethe face of the tile with a damp rag. Set thenext tile the same way. Insert plastic tile



8 WE£COMING ROOMS

rnz AN ENTRYWAYcontinued

Once all the tiles are laid, do nor INanyone walk on the floor for at least a day.Under humid conditions, you may need [0

wait longer. To ensure that the adhesive wil]dry, direct a fan to blow over the surface.

GROUT AND CLEAN

spacers berweenthe tiles as you work.Move or leave rhem in placeto be grouted over, if desired. Afterevery few tiles, check your work to be Sure it

is square and level. It may help to use a flatpiece of plywood about 3 feet square; set it onthe tiles you've been working with and tapgently if any unevenness is detected.

Mark for straight Cuts by measuring or byholding a tile in place. Don't forget to rakethe width of the grout line inro account. Setthe tile in a tile cutter, butted up against theguide and positioned so the cutting wheel willcut your line. Score a single line by pressingdown and sliding the handle forward. Snapthe Cut by pushing down hard on the handle.If you need [0 cur a number of tiles to thesame size, use the adjustable guide. Use tilenippers to cut tiles to fit curved shapes.

Remove the spacers. Ifrecommended, applygrout release to the tiles.

Mix the groutaccording ro directions.Spread it diagonally

over the tiles with a groutfloat, working it well into

the joints by holding (hefloat nearly flat and pushing

down as you move it in

sweeping arcs. Sweep across aILthe joint lines in at least 1:\.,.0

directions. Work smaILsections at arime. Then rip the float up and use it

like a squeegee to remove the excessgrout from the tiles without removing it

from the joints. Move diagonally to thelines. Let the grout stand until the joints are

firm. Wipe the tiles clean with a damp spongewithout removing grout from the joints. Letthe grout set for 72 hours, then wash the Roorwirh clear water and polish the surface with asoft cloth. Seal the grout and the rile as thetile dealer recommends.

INSTALL THE THRESHOLDS

Reinstall the base shoe or baseboard melding,taking care not to drive nails into the tile orthe grout line. Purchase appropriatethresholds. For example, a beveled metalthreshold makes a smooth transition if thetwo floors are not level with each other. )( youare butting a floor to an oak wood floor, anoak threshold is a good choice.

Cut a metal threshold with tin snips.Use a miter box {or a wood threshold.Install with decorative screws.

Make the transition

between flooring

materials with a

simple strip of

metal threshold

fastened in place

with sp-ews or tacks.



ADD A HALLSHELF

Some entryways cannot comfortablyaccommodate a console table or chest.Remedy this by hanging a shelf with

decorative brackets on the wall at the heightof a countertop or a tabletop. It offers a

convenient place to lay keys and gloves. Hanga mirror or picture over it for an attractiveaccent in an otherwise empty space. Onceyou have purchased the parts, this shelf willtake about half a day to build and finish.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: Two decorat ive brackets;lxS or lxLO board for shelf; £luted screenmolding fa cover three edges of shelf;4d finishing nails; brads for attaching

molding; wood glue; screws for attachingbrackets: wood putty; wood plugs: paintor stain with a polyurethane finish.

TOOLS: tape measure; miter box orpower rni ter box (rentable); stud firider:drill; level; pencil; hammer; nail set;paintbrusli.

PLAN FOR A SHELF THAT FITS

Determine the shelf location and size. Itshould be near the front door and coat closet,

but not in the path of [he door's swing. Trackthe full arc of the door's swing to determinewhich sections of wall you must avoid. Have ahelper hold a board in place [0 make sure itwill not impede traffic.

ASSEMBLE THE PARTS

Look for decorative brackets at anarchitectural salvage yard or a renovationsupply house. (Shelf brackets purchased froma building-supply retailer are less attractivethan antique brackers.) Exterior brackets andcorbels work well, roo. Take your treasureshome and clean up and refiuishrhem,if necessary.

Cut a board or a piece ofplywood to your dimensions.Use a miter box or powermiter box [0 cut the edgingpieces, and attach (hem tothree edges of the shelf withglue and small brads.

WEI.COMING ROOMS

HANG THE SHELF

Use a level and a pencil to mark a lineshowing the bottom edge of the shelf Locatethe wall studs along this line with a stud

finder. If possible, attach the bracketsdirectly to the studs. If nor, use the nailerarrangement shown below. No more thanone-sixth of the length of the shelf shouldcantilever off each bracket.

Attach the shelf ro the brackets with4d finishing nails. Countersink the nail heads,using a nail set, and fill the holes with woodputry. Drill pilot holes and counrerbore holesfor the screws, and insert decorative plugs.Apply two coats of high-gloss paint, or stainand apply a coat of polyurethane finish.

, I, I, ,

I ,, ,, I

A simple entryshelf gives you aplace to keep a

notebook orkeys within easy

reach withoutdominating yourentryway.

Assemble bycutting andtrimming the

shelf first. Thenbuild the supportso the bracketsare set in 4-6inches from theshelf ends.

-~ ~-== == = , :: ; : , = = == == = ; ::= , ;: : ,= = = ; ;; ; ; ; ; ;-';~ddgQe.oldinq

is miter-cut

CD -- .... 01

CD

, , I ,

IWood plugs



10 WELCOMING ROOMS

UPGRADE W ITH MOLDIN GS

M ldings add depth and elegance co aroom. They also accent irs bestfeatures, helping trick the eye into

seeing the space as wider or narrower, longeror shorter than it actually is. With good tools

and some patience, you can installprofessional-looking moldings. As a verygeneral rule, count on installing about fivepieces of molding per hour,

A variety ofmoldings makefor a richlytextured look. Athree-part basemolding ismirrored by anelaborate crown

molding at theceiling (seepages 12-13). Ahorizontal chair

rail locatedabout 4 feetabove the floorallows for

different walltreatments.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: moldings (measure foreach piece and buy a variety of lengths},3d or 4d finishing nails for thinmoldings, 6d or Sci finishing nails forthic.ker pieces; construction adhesi ve:woodnller; latex/silicone caulk; paintor stain with a polyurethane finish.

TOOLS: tape measure; pencil; chalk line(for chair rail); miter box and hacksawor power miter box (rentable); squeezeclamps; coping saw; sanding block; studfinder; drill and Yo-inch drill bit; puttyknife; hammer and nail set or electricnailer (rentable); paintbrush.

WAYS TO USE MOLDINGS

There are scores of ways to use molding (0

enhance a room. Mount crown or covemoldings at ceiling lines. Pur chair rails andpicture moldings or other trims at soffitheight or at midwall. Mask corners and seamswith comer moldings and highlight fireplacemantels with crown or cornice moldings andother trims. Dress lip cabinets (as in th e picuueabove) by adding fluted edge molding to theshelves and installing casings with decorativecorner blocks. You also can cover the lowerhalf of a wall with vertical tongue-and-groovewainscoting.

For a quaint effect, mount picture molding(it has a rounded top and was originallydesigned for hanging pictures with clips andwires) on [he wall below but not touching the



ceiling. Or mount them on the ceiling behindthe crown or cove molding.

To make more lavish moldings, build uplayers of stock moldings. For example, createa custom crown molding by mounting basemolding a few inches below the ceiling. Trimits bottom edge with picture molding andmount [he crown molding on its top edge.Any number of combinations is possible.

PLANNING HINTS

• Keep the molding pattern appropriate (0

the room's style and purpose.• Keep the molding width in proportion to

the size of the room.• Align low wall moldings with the bottomof windows or a major piece of furniture .• Align high wall moldings with the tops ofwindows and doors or with a major piece offurniture.

• Place chair rails and wainscot caps26--30 inches above the floor.• It may save time and effort to stain orpaint the wood before cutting it. That way,you will have (0 touch up only the cut endsand the filled holes after the molding isinstalled.

MITER AND COPED CUTS

Wear safety goggles and make practice cuts onscrap material before you begin. Smomh thecut edges with a sanding block.

A miter cut is a 45-degree angle-cut thatlets pieces fir together at comers. Mark themolding at the angle's longest point and set itin the miter box. It is important to hold themolding in the correct way in the box;experiment with scrap pieces before you cut alarge piece. Base molding goes in right sideup, as if the bottom-of [he box were the floorand the back were the wall. Lay door andwindow casings right side up in the bottomof the box, as if the bottom were the wall.Hold the molding firmly in place or securewith Ceclamps and pads. Here are some tips.• Outside comer base moldings: Cut the

right-hand corner from left to right. Aftercutting, the right piece is the right comer.Cut the left-hand comer from right to left.The left piece is the left comer. '• For an inside corner on base moldings:Cur (he left-hand corner from left ro right.After cutting, the left piece is the left corner.Cut (he right-hand corner from- right to left.The right piece is the right corner.

A coped joint is a butt joint used for insidecomers and is often (he only way to ensure aeight joint. It is particularly useful for basemolding. It is a bit more challenging than aninside miter cut but not as difficult as it may

WELCOMING ROOMS

Picture

molding

EJS- .

.~.

-= I . : :=: ;_--- - . ,' ,; "-

Casing

Chair rails

blocks

.fTl1TflI.~'lI .'

Base shoe

O J-, in ' tJ · .~

I - - _

~':.' -. . ..~, -_ :. . -

~ - _ .~

appear. Cut the first piece at a 90,degreeangle so it firs flush to the adjoining wall.Then cut the second piece to fit the faceprofile of the flu~h piece (s ee ins tructio ns fo rco pe d cutson page 13).

NAIL IN PLACE

Before you starr nailing, find solid woodbehind the wall surface into which you candrive nails. Locate studs (usually 16 inchesapart) with a stud finder; at the bottom andtop of walls, there will be horizontal plates,as well. Drive experimental nails and markstud locations with light pencil marks.

Install molding piece by piece, workingaround the room. Drive small nails every fewfeet along the chalk line before you begin.

The molding rests on these nails while youglue and nail it to the wall.

If installing synthetic molding, coat theback or nailing edges with the recommendedadhesive, press in place, and nail. Nail woodmoldings in place wieh or withoutconstruction adhesive, as you prefer. Drivethe nails through predrilled holes whereverthe molding crosses a stud. They should gothrough a part of the molding that sits flatagainst the wall and 14 inch into the studs.Countersink the nail heads the distance oftheir diarnerer, Fill with wood puttv chatmatches your stain or fill, sand, and paint.

In addition tothe lamiliarcolonial andranch moldings,vintagemoldings likethese offer newpossibilities lorupgrading a

room.



12 WELCOMING ROOMS

Molding addedto the wall canmake 8 simplecrown moldingmore complex.

~\

-----

W ith crown molding. you can add anew look (0 a room in a short time.A variety of attractive crown

molding types are available. and you canenhance plain crown molding by adding otherpieces of stock molding-colonial stop, forinstance--to the wall or ceiling surfaces.

The job requires some precise cutting, butif you treat each piece with care, your efforts

will be well rewarded. Have at least onesturdy stepladder-better yet, make a platformour of a plClnk and two stable sawhorses. Youwill need a helper to assist with the longpieces. As a general rule, count on installingabout four pieces of crown molding per hour.

PLAN THE .JOB

On a piece of paper, make a diagram of thepieces, planning so chat as few pieces aspossible wil1 have to be miter-cut on bothends. If you have a wall longer than thelongest piece of molding, plan thelocation of a bun joint so it willnot be highly visible. Startworking in the least visible partof the room because you willprobably make better joints onceyou've had some practice.

Hold a scrap piece of crownmolding in place and determinewhere you will put the nails. Be sureyou will drive into solid wood-theceiling plate at the top of the wall,wall studs, or ceiling joists. For largercrown molding, it may make sense to

/ r:WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: moldinz (measure foreach 'piece); 6cl or 3d fu:tishing nails:wood filler; paint or stain with apolyurethane finish.

TOOLS: power miter box (rentable) or

high-quality miter box with backsaw;squeeze clamps, coping saw; knife; studfinder: drill and Y$-inch drill bit; puttyknife; sandpaper; hammer and nail setor electric na Her (renta b le).

install a horizontal 2x2 in the corner toprovide an easy nailing surface.

Crown molding is somewhat difficult [0

work with, especially if it is wide. Walls andceilings are seldom perfeccly square and true,so often cuts must be fine-tuned. And because

Make copedcuts for insidecorners

Use miter cutsfor outsidecorners



rhe joints will be more visible man with basemolding, (hey must be close to perfect. Sospend some time practicing on scrap pieces,cutting rhem as shown on these pages andholding them in place. Don't start cutting thereal scuff until you feel very comfortable withyour skills.

MEASURE AND MITER-CUT

When preparing ro cur crown molding, set irupside down, as if (he bottom of the miterbox were the ceding and the back of the boxwere the wall. For outside comers, miter-cutboth pieces. Cut rhe left-hand comer fromleft ro right. After cutting, rhe right piece isrhe left comer. Cur the right-hand comerfrom right ro left. The left piece is rhe rightcorner. For inside comers, you can try miter-cutting borh pieces ( se e th e i ll us tr ati on satright), but unless your walls are perfectly

square, you will end up with imperfect joints.A better solution-and it doesn't take as longas you may think-is ro make a coped cur.

MAKE A COPED CORNER

Cut the first piece square and install it rightro the comer. Then miter the second piece.Cut a righc-hand piece from left (0 right; cuta left-hand piece from right to left. As withail miter cuts, place the molding upside downin the miter box, as if the back of the boxwere the wall. If possible, have the cope-curpiece be longer than needed so that if youmake a mistake you can try again.

Next, use a coping saw to make a cur thatfollows the miter cut along the face of the

Miter-cut , then cope-cutthe overlappinq piece

[WEI.COMllVG· BOOMS

Right side of aninside miter

'-F~~~

This edgegoes to the

/wall

~~~~~

Left side of anoutside miter

Right side of an Left side of anoutside miter inside miter

~~~~~~~~~

molding. This new cut duplicates the profileof the molding. When making rhe coped cut,

angle the blade back a bit. This process,called back-curring, ensures that the face ofthe coped molding fits tightly against the faceof the adjacent molding. Cut too much ratherchan too little from the back of the piece,since only the face will be visible. Removeany excess material with a utility knife, takingcare not to damage (he face of the molding.Hold the piece in place. to see if it fits tightly.If not, you may need to recut.

Because walls and ceilings are often out ofsquare, you may have to fine-rune the joints.Sometimes it helps to use small shims at theceiling to bring one piece down a [ittle. Othertimes, you may need to shave the top orbottom edge of a piece ro make it ht flushagainst an imperfect surface.

CuI the f irst piece

souare and install i t

CuI the profile

with a coping saw

Right side of anInside miter

As you cut themiters, checkcarefully that

your work ispositioned forthe cut youwant.

Coping themolding allowsyou to overlapan adjacentpiece, making aclean joint tha t

can adjust forwalls slightly

out of square.

Left side of aninside miter



14 WELCOMING ROOMS

INSTALL RECESSED LIGHTS

R ecessed lights are unobtrusive, so youcan add one or more withoutsignificantly changing (he look of a

room. They also are very inexpensive andrelatively easy to install. They can providetask lighting on a specific surface like adesktop or accent lighting to brighten a dimspot; they can wash down a wall or highlight

oA singlerecessed light

can focus on one

specific area; a

series of lightswill brighten awhole room.

a treasured object. A group of recessed lightswill brighten a whole room.

Work safely: If you are nor sure of yourself,hire an electrician [0 run the cable. Be surepower is shut off at the service panel beforeyou work with existing wiring. Onceelectrical cable is run, it will take anhour or two to install a fixture.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: recessedhousings (Calis) wlrh trims andbulbs; electrical cable; junctionbox; twist-type wireconnectors; electrical tape.

TOOLS: graph paper; studfinder; stepladder; tapemeasure; keyhole saw;lineman's pliers; wire strippers.

PLAN THE LOCATIONS

For task and accent lighting, simply look atyour space and decide where you need morelight. Flooding a room with consistent overalllight calls for evenly spaced downlighrs acrossthe ceiling. Place them approximately 6 to 8feet apart and 3 feet in from the wall; adjust[his spacing so they f ir between two joists (usea scud finder to locate the joists). Better yet,have a lighting showroom design the layout.Most provide free design service if you buythe light fixtures from the showroom.

TYPES OF CANS

You need a housing, called a "can," fat eachlight, plus the trim and bulb to go with it.Most dealers have good displays that showwhat each style of (rim and bulb does best.

Buy a housing rated for use in remodeling.Several methods of attaching to the ceilingare available; be sure you understand how youwill install your hxrure before you buy it.Check to see that the can will take bulbs YOLl

want to use-some take only 60-watt bulbs. Ifyour ceiling joists are smaller than 2x8s, youwill need a special small-space can.

Various types of trims are available fordifferent looks. Cans that are black on theinside will throw a more subtle light. Eyeball-type fixtures can be swiveled to focus on aparticular spot. There are two types .• t.c. (insulated ceiling) housing: Thisindicates a can that can be installed ininsulated areas. Insulation can touch the sidesand top of the can. . .

l .C, (insulated ceiling) fixture can have insulation touching it

T.e. (thermal cutout) f ixture must have open spacearound i t or i t will overheat



• 't.C. (thermal cutout), or non-l.C,housing: This can is intended (oruninsulared areas. If it'sinstalled where insulation ispresent, the insulation mustbe kept at least 3 inchesaway from all sides of thecan, and none should beinstalled over the top.Otherwise, the can willoverheat, and a thermalswitch will deaden the tixrureor cause it to blink.

PREPARE THE OPENING

Before you begin, check your local electricalcode requirements. If you are Ull.sureof yourability to install a downlighr, hire a licensedelectrician to do the job.

Be sure that the hole will fall between

joists. The fixture will come with a circulartemplate; use it as a guide for drawing a circleon (he ceiling, If you have a series of lights toinstall, draw all the circles before you begincutting. Cut out rhe opening with a keyholesaw. Work carefully, so you won't have topatch your ceiling afterward.

Shut off the electrical power at the servicepanel. The can must be connected withsupply wire rated at 90" e. (The supply wirein. most houses built before 1985 is rated60° e.) Replace the supply wire, if necessary.Make rhe correct connections in an existingjunction box or switch box, taking care not rooverload a box with roo many wires; install anew junction box, if needed.

Black wire to black wire, white towhi te, and ground to ground

Find a way to fish electrical cable from anexisting switch up through the walls into theceiling and down to the hole. If you haveaccess to an unfinished attic floor above theceiling, that will make your work easier.Running cable parallel to the joists is fairlyeasy. But if you need to run across the joists,you may have to cut a small hole in theceiling at each joist, then notch the joist comake a path for the cable. Install a protectivemetal plate wherever the cable is in danger of

WELCOMING ROOMS

Completedconnection

Sacurillg.clips

having a nail poked into it. Leave at least a(oat of extra cable hanging down through the

hole to make it easy to hook co the fixtures.For more than one down light, you may

need to install a readilv accessible junctionbox in the ceiling and run the cable to it.Then pull a cable from the junction boxdown through each hole. Or you may be ableto use the fixtures themselves as junctionboxes and run cable from fixture to fixture. Inthat case, leave a series of cables running fromhole ro hole.

MAKE THE ELECTRICALCONNECTION

Wire each outlet box by connecting the wires(black to black, white ro whire) with twist-type wire connectors. Connect the greenground wire to the ground wire in the powersource. Tuck the wires into the box and close.

INSTALL CANAND TRIM

There are several ways to install rhe cans,depending on (he type. For some, install amounting frame before YOLl hook the wiring,then slide the can into the mounting frame

and secure ir with a screw. Others use clipsthat simply push up to secure the can towallboard or plaster. Follow themanufacturer's directions to install the trim.Some types use a reflector, as well.

Insrall the correct bulb: Using higherwattage than recommended will dangerouslyheat your wiring. Often a higher-wattagefloodlight can be used instead of a lower-wattage standard bulb.

After ,connectingthe'wires,carefully push

the can into theopening and

secure the clipsthat hold it to-the' ceiling'material.



16 WELCOMING ROOMS

COLOR WASH A WALL

Color washing is one of the most effectivefaux paint finishes and one of theeasiest. The technique involves building

up thin layers of translucent color, one on topof another, to produce a subtle, dappled effect.The rich, mellow look complements countryrooms and other informal settings. Color

washing has one drawback-it's messy. Coverthe (loor and furniture with plastic sheeting(taped (0 (he baseboards) and carps. Count onspending two days preparing and painting anaverage bedroom.

Typically, color-washed walls have a white.off-white. or light-colored base coat. Coverthis base with a minimum of two or threelayers of paint thinned to a wash consistency.

The washes can be the same color-onethat contrasts with (he base coat andgains depth from being layered overitself-or they can be tints and shadesfrom (he same color family in thegradations shown on a paint samplecard. An example is different yellowslayered over one another on (O P of a

warm white. ivory, or pale yellow

base coat. Or use colors that arerelated-for example, a pale bluebase coat washed with layers of red-violet, violet, and blue-violet. Thethinner the paint and the morecoats applied, the richer the look.

Experiment on scrap pieces ofwood if you are nor sure which lookis best for you. Choose light colorover dark color, or dark over light.Remember that you will see more ofthe wash than (he base coat.

a oA color-washedwall enrichesa room withinteresting mixesof hues anddelicate hints ottexture.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: spackle and/or spray-oncrack sealer; primer; latex or alkydinterior paints; polyurethane finish, ifdesired; mineral spirits, if needed.

TOOLS: plastic sheering and tarps:stepladder; paint buckets (one for eachcolor); st irring sticks; paintbrushes(natural bristle for oil-based paint andpolyurethane, man-made bristles forlatex paint): 4- or 5~inch-wide safebrushes or large sponge; roller with 11 6 -orlis-inch nap cover; roller tray; clean rags.

PREPARE THE WALL

Success requires clean, smooth walkIf YOLI have minor cracks, use spray-on crack scaler. Fill holes with-spackle

and sand smooth. Wash the walls orsand lightly. If you have any stains, they

may bleed through no matter how many coatsof paint you apply, so cover them with stain-killing primer (available in spray cans as wellas regular paint).

If you want the woodwork to be painteddifferently from the walls, carefully cover itwith masking tape-it will be difficult (0

apply the wash along the edge of woodwork.With a roller and brush, apply the base coat.Even though it will be largely covered, it isimportant to coat the walls completely. Let[he base dry completely.

MIX THE WASH

Make the wash by thinning 1 pan latex paintwith 5-9 parts water, alkyd paint with5-9 parts solvent. Or for latex paint, use anacrylic polyurethane product made for thepurpose of color wash ing (typically, you mix2 pans paint with 1 part water and 1 pan



18 WELCOMING ROOMS

CHANGEINTO STRIPES

Simple vertical stripes lend an old-fashioned air to walls that busierwallpaper cannot match. The effect is

subtle rather than flowery. And because youpaint the stripes yourself, you can choose theexact color you want. On these pages we

Perk ,up a room

by painting instripes of slightlydifferent colorsorby simplyalternatinghe"tweenflstandg!ossy versions:of tire samecolor.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: paints; glazing liquid(for squeegee sniping); low-stickpainter's rape; masking tape,

ToOLS: drop cloths, paintbrushes;roller; ladder; level; pencil; squeegee;utility knife; straightedges for squeegeestriping.

present two striping possibilities. Shadowstriping gives a formal, subtle pattern to yourwalls, while squeegee striping produces a moreplayful effect. Both techniques are within thereach of a do-it-vourselfer, but they are time-consuming. Expect [0 spend several daysworking on an average hallway.

SHADOW STRIPING

This is done by alternating flat stripes withglossy stripes of the same color. The differencewill be more noticeable when you look along[he length of a wall, which makes this a greattechnique for a hallway. Smooth the wallsand apply a coat or two of fiat wall paint.Allow at least a day for the paint to drycompletely before applying tape [() it.

Choose the width of low-stick painter'srape to suit your taste. Wide stripes lookmore formal [han narrow ones. You canalternate stripes of the same width or havetwo different widths.

ApPLY THE GLOSSY PAINT

With a level, make faint pencil lines toindicate a plumb line in the middle of thewall. Roll and press a strip of tape from [heceiling to the wall. Working outward from themiddle, use small pieces of tape as spacers,to Iinc up th e rest of the stripes of cape.

Pour glossy paine into a tray and applv tothe untaped portions of the wall with a tollerthat approximates the width of the stripes.lmmediatelv follow with a paintbrush."working in long strokes and making sure allthe gaps are filled.

While the painr is still wet, carefully pulloff the tape. Pull straight away from the wallto be certain you do nor smear any paint. Youdehnirelv need to practice on a wall surfaceand become confident in your techniquebefore doing the job.

SQUEEGEE STRIPING

This method requires less in the way ofpreparation, but you do need a steady hand.Don't expecr perfection; a few unsteady linesand a drip here and there will add charm andemphasize that the job was done by hand.Still, work as carefully as possible because toomany mistakes will result in a sloppy look.

Smooth the walls and apply a solid coat ortwo of latex paint for a base coat. Thesmoother [he wall and the glossier the basecoat. (he more cleanly the squeegee will beable to wipe paint off the surface.



Wait a day beforeremoving low-stickpainter's tap!3

MAKE THE STRIPERAND MIX THE PAINT

Purchase a window-washing squeegee about12 inches wide. Use a sharp utility knife tocut out square notches in the rubber part. Youcan try for evenly spaced notches or cur outvariously sized and spaced notches (or morevisual interest.

For making snipes, you need paint thatwill nor dry quickly and will respond well to

the squeegee. Mix 3 pans glazing liquidwith 1 part paint or consult with yourpaint dealer (or a ready-made product.Make enough to do the whole room.

SET UP THE .JOB

Because you must always work in strips thatare as wide as your squeegee, you will notbe able to maintain the exact patternthroughout the room. When you come tothe end of a wall or when you meet anobstruction, 'such as a Window, the patternwill have ro be varied. Do this byoverlapping squeegee strokes.

Plan the job by measuring the walls andfiguring where you will have (0 overlapsqueegee strokes, Try (0 minimize overlap orput pattern changes in places where theywill nor be very visible. For instance, on awall with a window, it may make sense (0

start at one comer and work toward thewindow, then start at the other comer andwork in the opposite direction until thestripes meet under the window.

WELCOMING ROOMS

Have on hand a long straightedge thatreaches from floor to ceiling. as well as ashort straightedge for places such asunder a window.

MAKE THE STRIPES

With a roller, apply the glaze/paintmixture to the wall in a vertical snipeas wide as the squeegee. (Ir helps tohave a roller sleeve that is as wide asthe squeegee.)

Immediately follow with thesqueegee, using a straightedge to keepyour lines straight. The straightedgeshould measure almost the height of theceiling. Be sure you can keep it stillwhile you work-have a helper hold itin place against the walL Because wallsare rarely perfectly plumb, use a leveleven when you are starting in a corner.

As vou pull the squeegee down from theceiling to the floor, press firmly enough to

remove paint but not so firmly as to makesmudges.

After each set of stripes, wipe the squeegeeand the straightedge dean. Use the squeegeeas a measuring tool (0 accurately position thestraightedge, both top and bottom, for eachsuccessive set of stripes. For shorr spaces, use ashort straightedge.

II 1

I II~I. l lL _ 1 -

'1. , v;

II !-

I

I ~< , I i"V

1 / 0I

,

I

I

I I

1-

Hold the squeegee straight and press fairly

firmly8S

you pull down from ceiling to floor.



20 WELCOMING ROOMS

BRIGHTEN WOOD PANELING

M OSt of the veneered plywood panelinginstalled in American homes between1963 and 1977 has a dark wood tone

that can seem oppressive. However, you don'tneed to tear out paneling [0 get cheery walls.(In some cases, tearing it out would bedisastrous because paneling was sometimesinstalled over studs without wallboard first

being hung.) Instead, paint it. The panelingwill take on an entirely new look and give theroom a textured character, as well as a brightatmosphere. Excellent color choices includewhite, off-white, ivory, beige, light taupe, paleor bright pastels, and muted or grayed pastels.If the paneling is in decent condition, youcan paint an average bedroom in a day.

INSPECT AND PREPARETHE PANELING

Cracks, holes, and otherimperfections will not beerased by paint-in fact,paint may actuallyhighlight flaws. Fillsuch openings with

caulk andimmediately wipewith a damp sponge,or use wood fi ller,sanding [he surfaceafter it dries.

Lay plasticsheeting along thepaneling baseboardand cover withtarps [0 make iteasy to walk on.Then wash thepaneling carefullywith commercialwall-washingcompound. Rinse withclear water containing1 '4cup white vinegarper gallon. Towel dry.

Rubbing in the directionof the wood grain, wipe

down the paneling with adeglosser to roughen its surface.

Simply paintingold paneling

suddenly turns a

gloomy den intoa pleasant family

room.

.~

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: timed alkyd or alcohol-based primer; latex or alkyd interiorpaint; caulk or wood tiller; wall-washingcompound; white vinegar; deglosser:mineral spirits.

TOOLS: paintbrushes; rol lers; sandpaper;plastic sheeting, carps; commercialsponge; wash bucket; towels; rags.

PAINTING TECHNIQUE

Choose a paint color. Ask the paint dealer foran alkyd or alcohol-based primer especiallvformulated to bond to a glossy surface. Havethe primer tinted [0 75 percent of your color.Apply two coats of this primer with a brush,letting it dry completely between coats. Fill inany imperfections YOLl notice at this point,and prime those spots. Then brush on a coatof l1at, eggshell, satin, or semigloss latex (oralkyd interior paint, if preferred). Allow timefor (he paint to dry .



WELCOMING ROOMS

PA INT A FLOOR PATTERN

Opaque paint finish offers a quick,affordable, and attractive way torefurbish a badly stained or worn

hardwood floor. It's also a great technique foradding a casual or countrv look to a floor.Another plus: This simple technique producesa durable floor without completely stripping

irs existing finish.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: latex or alkyd floor paint;oil glazes; wood floor cleaner; mineralspirits: white vinegar; polyurethanefinish.

TOOLS : towels; electric or pole sanderwith IOO-grit sandpaper; tape measure,pencil; T square or framing square; chalk

line; kneepads or kneeling pad;paintbrush; coarse graining comb; rags:

POSSIBLE DESIGNS

Make the project as basic as painting thefloor one color or give it a pattern like acheckerboard scaled to the room's size.Compose a checkerboard of two solid butcontrasting colors, one color textured withalternating colored glazes, or one color toppedwith one color glaze combed in differentdirections to give the alternating squares

contrasting texture. Instructions for atraditional checkerboard floor-which createsthe illusion of classic riles-are given here.

PAINT AND SEAL

Clean [he floor thoroughly, and fill or sandany imperfections. Apply a base coar of floorpaint (or porch and floor enamel), taking careto cornplerelv cover the surface. Allow it (0

dry completely.Layout [he design using [he T square or

framing square as a guide. Following the

instructions ·for planning a ceramictile layout (see page 6), starr the

design in the center of the floor.Measure accurately and snap chalklines to mark the pattern on thefloor. To keep the job simple, makethe checks 12 inches square.

Paint alrernaring squares so youcan clean up the edges of eachsquare as you work. Use one of thefollowing techniques to achieve the~ook you want:• For solid-colored contrastingchecks: Paint alternate squares one

color; let dry. Paint the remaining squares inthe other color. Clean [he edges as youcomplete each square.• For a solid color with contrasting glazecoars: When the paint is dry, mix oil glazesaccording (0 the instructions given forantiquing painted paneling (se e p age 20).

Experiment until you achieve the color,

transparency, and consisrency desired. Ideally,you will have a thin, translucent glaze. Brush

the first glaze color on alternating squares.Clean the edges as you complete each square.When the glaze is dry, brush the second glazecolor on the remaining squares.• For a solid color with a combed one-colorglaze coat: Use the same technique forcontrasting glaze coats, combing the first setof squares from side to side. Wipe the combfrequently to remove glaze buildup. Let thesquares dry, then apply (he glaze (0 theremaining squares, combing from (O P (0

bottom for contrast.When the glaze is dry, give the floor one or

two coats of clear polyurethane finish.

A simplecheckerboarddesign hides

defects in awood floor whilekeeping the lookof wpod grain .

To achieve atiled effectpaint, then combcarefully so chalklines will remainvisible.



STEP LIVELY ON STENCILS

A stenciledborder enhancesthe beauty of a

wood floor whileadding the

decorative effect

of an area rug.

H ere's another technique for producing ahandsome floor. If you stencil over anopaque paint, (he result plavfull y

imitates an area mg. When (he pattern isapplied wirh wood stains on a natural woodfloor, ir [oaks like parquetry or inlay.Stenciling also disguises any defects-justincorporate them into the design so they getcovered up.

CHOOSE OR MAKE A DESIGN

Two rules apply to floor srenciling: Use asimple design with bold, geometric shapes andno more than three colors, and lise a separarestencil (or each color. Make your own designand cut it out of stencil acetate with a utilityknife, or buy a precut design at an arts andcrafts supply store. Have the stencils readyand the pattern layout determined beforeyou prepare the floor.

First, draw the layout on graph paper.If the design includes a border,

carefu lly consider itsplacement. Typical

borders run 6-12inches wide,

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: -sprav adhesive or maskingtape; stencil paints or wood stains, depending on the size of the room. Place

them either right to the wall or so (hat theoutside edge is 8 ro 18 inches from the wall.The larger the room, (he wider you shouldmake the border and the wider the gap youshould leave between it and the wall.

TOOLS: graph paper; stencil design;stencil acetate: utility knife; cuttingboard: sandpaper, rape measure;straightedge or T square; pencil; chalkLine; kneepads or kneeling pad; stencilbrush; small trays for stenciling colors;newspapers; rags; hair dryer; suppliesneeded for painting a floor ( se e p ag e 21).



PREPARE THE AREA

Thoroughly clean and lightlv sand the floor.If you want to stencil onto a backgroundcolor, prime and paint the floor. You alsocan apply stencil paints directly on a floorcoated with varnish or polyurerhane-cleanand lightly sand it first. However, if vou waneto use wood stains on natural wood, sandaway as much of the finish as possible in /rhe areas to be stenciled. If (he floor hasbeen waxed, remove rhe wax.

Measure and snap chalk lines for thedesign location on the floor. Layout a borderfirst, starting with the comers, and thenevenly space the border design between them.Fill in the field. For an overall design, with orwithout a border, (ollow the instructions forplanning a ceramic tile layout (s ee p age6) .Just as in laying tile, square off the space ineach quadrant to accommodate the size of the

design.

WELCOMING ROOMS

Trace thedesired design

onto a sheet ofstencil acetate,

then tape thesheet tocardboard and

carefully cut thestencil with autility knife.

STENCILING WITH PAINT

Paint any border comers first, the borderdesign next, and then rhe field, using thefollowing technique .• To stencil with paint, anchor the firststencil in place with spray adhesive ormasking tape. Dip [he bod) into the paint,remove me excess on scraps of newspaper,and apply by pouncing the brush straight upand down against the floor, filling the openarea with paint. Don't be surprised if you haveto pounce fairly hard with the brush .• Carefully remove rhe stencil. Dry the paintwith a hand-held hair dryer. Posirion thesecond and third stencils, and paint the colorsthe same way. Repeat these steps with eachsection of the design. Clean rhe stencil andbrushes frequently to prevent smearing.

STENCILING WITH STAIN

To stencil with wood stain, follow the samebasic technique for painr but lightly dab thestain through rhe holes with lint-free rags

instead of a srenciling brush. Use only a smallamount ar a rime so the stain doesn't rununder the stencil. Repeat as ofren as necessaryto get the desired depth of tone.

Wheil the floor is dry, give ir one or twocoats of clear polyurethane finish. Use amane, semigloss. or gloss fmish, dependingon how much shine you want.

Plan the stencilwith one cutout

sheet per color.Add registration

marks to linethem up. Blotaway excesspaint on thebrush andpounce the

brush straightup and down on

the stencil.Carefully remove

the stencil andclean to avoidsmears.



No room in the house is harder working than the

kitchen, an ideal place for you to add time-savingstorage amenities and style upgrades.



All to o o ften, kitch ens and

bathmoms seem like

a fte rth ough ts . Th e) "r e

squeezed inro small spaces ;

th ey h avetoo little scen'age

room and scant counter

s pace ; th eir liglu ing is p oo r;and [ he ir fix tu re s lo ok

outd ac ed lo ng h efo re

the~)'wearOUL. Man:)'

h om eowners aS Sum e

that th e oniy remedy is

higll~p')"icedremodeling.

O ften, however, a few

sm all ch anges can m a1< e

a d ramati c d iffe rence.This chapter offen 17

projeCtsW im p ro ve )'o ur

hard~working moms

without breabng tile bank.

T he ideas range from

r ev iw iizin g ca bin ets a nd

ajJpi iances inexpensivei) '

CO sO /- l) in g s to ra ge and

ligh ting p ro blems. T he y

prove that no kitchen or

bm h is be:ynnd redemjnion.

IN THIS CHAPTE

Pa in t CabinChange Hardware

Tile a BacksplashAdd Undetcebine:

Fluorescent LiglitrnInstal! Haloge

UrcetcsbineLightingAdd Urcercebine

Accessories

Hang 8 P ol R ac kCabinet Racks

Cabinet Slide-Outs

And Drawers

Repair a Drawer

Built-In Ironing Center

Add a Cabinet-En

Book RackRomantic

A Clew-toot Tub

ht Bat hr oom SheB eiw ee o S tudsInstall a Medicin

Cabinet

Refinish a Tub

Replace a FaucetInslail a New Vanity



PA INT CABINETS, CH ANGE HARDWARE

Oten, cabinets are discarded onlybecause rhey show a little surface wearor are th e wrong wood tone. However,

considering that new cabinets in an average-size kitchen can cost $5,000, it makes sense tolook for a less-expensive solution. Paint, plus

cured epoxy that is impossible ro remove.For an average-size kitchen with about 25cabinet doors and drawer fronts, count onspending three or four days preparing.painting, and changing the hardware.

By changingappliancesand reworkingcabinet doors,you canmake a greatimpact on theappearance ofyour kitchenwithout hiringan expensivecontractor.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIAI.S: new door pulls; newhinges; alkyd or latex interior enamelrecomrnended for cabinets; primer/sealer,if needed: commercial wall-washingcompound or kitchen degreaser: whitevinegar; wood filler; minera] spirits.

TOOLS: Dnil with screwdriver bit;screwdriver; masking rape; labe ling pen;sawhorses or work table, plastic sheets or

drop cloths; 200-grit sandpaper: sandingblock or power sander; vacuum cleaner;sponge; rags; rack cloth; masking cape;puny knife; fine steel wool; thin-nappaint roller; paintbrushes; paint bucketor tray.

some time and effort, can correct minordeficiencies for 5 percent of that cost or less.Best of all, codav's paint products let you skipthe messy and exhausting task of removingthe existing finish before painting. In fact,don't try to strip the finish-it may be a hear-

CHOOSE PAINTAND HARDWARE

Select your paint and new hardwareat the same time for a harmoniouslook. The job will be easier if thedoor pulls and knobs rhar you selectwill fit into the old holes. If nor, youwill have to fill the holes with woodfiller and sand them smooth. Makesure the hinges will work with yourdoors. as well. (You probably will

have to drive screws into newholes.)

Decide what parts of the cabinetsyou will paint. The easiest solutionis to paint only the faces of theframes, the drawer faces, and oneside of the doors. But you may preferro paint both sides of the doors andvisible parts of (he cabinet interior,too. Shelf botroms easily can becovered with shelf paper.

Decide whether you like thetexture of rolled-on paint or brush

strokes. Usually the best solution is to brushthe cabinet frame and ro roller-paint thedoors and drawer faces, using a thin-nap rollersleeve.

DISMANTLE THE CABINETS

Cover your kitchen or garage floor withplastic sheeting or drop cloths. Lay down aseries of long, thin pieces of wood to keep thedoors raised as you prepare and paint them.

Dismantling goes quicker if you use a drillequipped with a screwdriver bit, (Mostcabinet screws require a No.1 Phillips-head

bir.) Unscrew the hinges and remove thedoors. Remove the handles or knobs. Takerile drawers off their glides and remove theirpulls or knobs. If you plan to reuse hardware,store the pieces so they won't get lost .

CLEAN AND PREPARE THE WOOD

Airborne grease coats every householdsurface, It'll ruin the paint job if you don'tremove it. Wash the cabinets with a wall-washing compound or kitchen degreaser.Rinse the cabinets with water containing1 /, cup white vinegar per gallon. Wipe them



dry and let them air dry (or 24 hours. Thenwipe them down with mineral spirits toremove all traces of grease. Lee rhem air dry.

Look closely for cracks and otherimperfections-they will be magnified bypaint rather than covered up. Fill holes withwood filler, ler them dry, then sand smooth.

Hold a new hinge in place to see if thescrew holes in the doors and frame will lineup. If nor, fill rhe holes and sand smooth.

Scuff the cabinets by rubbing sandpaperwith rhe grain just enough [0 break thesurface gloss. Vacuum up rhe dust and wipethe cabinets with a tack cloth.

PAINT

Bring a sample door to your paint dealer tomake sure your paint will stick. To beabsolutely sure, buy an oil, or alcohol-basedprimer/sealer formulated to block stains and

adhere to glossy surfaces. Apply two coats,letting the door dry between coats {about onehour}. Buff each coat with fine steel wool.Clean up the dust.

Next, apply two coats of a professional-grade semigloss interior alkyd enamelfonnulated for painting woodwork. Let thefirst coat dry 24 hours, then buff with finesteel wool. Clean up the dust before applyingthe second coat.

Painr the wall cabinets then rhe basecabinets. Apply each layer of primer/sealerand paine in this order: top trim and rails.bottom rails and underside of wal]cabinets, stiles, backside of doors,drawer faces, and drawer fronts andedges.

REINSTALL WITHNEW HARDWARE

Give (he paint plenty of time to drycompletely. Even after it is dry to(he touch, paint (latex especially)will be soft and easily damaged (or

a few clays. It is best to exercisecaution in this case.

If the knobs or pulls lit into [heold holes. installing (hem will beeasy-just screw them on. Hingesmay be more difficult. If an old holeis roo large and the screw doesn't fittightly, cram a toothpick or othersmall piece of wood into the hole.If you filled the old holes, drill newones carefully-don'r rry to drivescrews without pilot holes.

WORKING ROOMS

Ensure that thefloor is well

covesed and thedoors are raisedup on slats ofwood beforeworking onthem. Paint thecabinet frameswith a brush,and use a roller

for the doors

and drawerfaces.



28 WOIIICING RDOMS

TILE A BACKSPLASH

T he area between the top of thecountertop and the bottom of (he wallcabinets is a magnet for grime (hat is

difficult to wipe off painted walls. Not largeenough for hanging pictures, it is often a wideexpanse of plain, dull wall surface. Make thisspace cleaner and brighter by installing walltiles. If you plan well, you should be able toinstall the tiles in one day and spend a coupleof hours the next day grouting.

Don't be surprised if you spend as muchtime shopping for tiles as you spend installingmemo There are pleruv (0 choose from.

Keep in mind not only the color of me tilesbut also [he size. Because me area is small(usually about 14 inches from the rap of thecountertop to the bottom of the cabinet),large tiles may not look good, especially if youhave to cut some of them in half. Standard4-inch-square wall tiles make a good choice.You also can consider buying mosaic tiles--small tiles that come in sheets. These cangive a more distinctive appearance.

Most countertops come with their ownbacksplashes, usually 4-5 inches high. Insome cases, it may be possible to remove thisand install new tiles ail the way down to thetop of the counter surface. Usually, however,it is best to leave the backsplash in place.

Tiling the areabetween thecountertop

and the wallcabinets addscharm andmakes it essierto k66p yourkitChen clean.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: tiles (field tile!" capspieces, and corner riles ifneeded): walltile adhesive (ask dealer for correcttype); grout; liquid latex grout additive;grout sealer; mineral spirits; caulk.

TOOLS: Tape measure; tile cutter; tilenippers or hacksaw with tile-cuttingblade; notched trowel (ask dealer forcorrect size); laminated grout float;sponge; rags; bucket.

Make a rough drawing of your area andbring it with you to a tile dealer. Wherever

you have exposed tile edges, buy special cappieces--the edge of a regular field tile willlook unfinished and be difficult (0 clean.Wherever there will be a tile with twoexposed edges, buy a special corner piece.

Choose grout at the same time as thetiles. It is usually best to avoid grout matcontrasts strongly with the color of the tilesbecause any small imperfection in yourinstallation will be magnified. Ask the dealerto recommend [he correct adhesive andnotched trowel for your tiles.



Do A DRY RUN

Make sure you know how the tiles will f i tbefore you start spreading adhesive. Measurethe distance (rom countertop to cabinetbottom in several places to see if some tileswill need to be cur to different sizes.

Wirh a helper or two, hold tiles in place tosee how rhey will look. Usually, you'll want rosrarr with a whole tile at the botrom becausethe top will nor be very visible. Line the tilesup lengthwise and make sure you will nor endup with slivers ar either end.

SET THE TILES

Spread the adhesive with a notched trowel,working carefully so that rhe entire area iscovered. Hold rhe rrowel at about a 45-degreeangle ro the wall so that you end up withridges of consistent depth. Work in longstrokes wherever possible ro produce astraighc surface. Wipe up any spills wirh a ragdampened with mineral spirits; keep yourhands clean of adhesive.

Set standard tiles by pressing each intoplace wirh a slight twist. If you are workingwith sheets of mosaic tile, hold each sheerfully spread while you set it in place, thengently smooth it our with your hand.

Apply groutwitha laminated grout

f loat , th~n wipewith a sponge

Caulk the joint betweencountertop and tile

Make straight curs with, a tile cutter. If youneed to cut out a notch, use tile nippers or ahacksaw equipped with a rile-cutting blade.If a piece is slighrly too big. do nor force irinto place because that can throw off yourjoint lines.

Step back and examine your work

periodically to see that the lines are consistentand straight. On mosaics especially, you mayhave [0 make slight adjustments. Clean anyadhesive off the tile surfaces and wait at leasta dav for rhe adhesive ro set.

GROUT. WIPE. AND CAULK

Mix rhe grout according to directions, usinglatex additive to increase irs strength. Holdingthe grour float nearly flat, push the grout into(he joints, working in several directions tomake sure all rhe joints are completely filled.Then rip the float up and wipe away rheexcess.

Wipe the surface wirh a damp sponge,periodically cleaning it in a bucker of water.Eye each grour line to make sure it is smoothand consisrenr. Allow ro dry and buff witha dry rag. Caulk rhe joint between thecountertop and the tiles. After a coupleof weeks, apply grout sealer.

WORKING ROOMS

Once the tile is

applied and the

grout has cureda few da ys. seal

the janctionbetween tile

and countertop

with caulk.



30 WORKING ROOMS

ADD UNDERCABINET FLUORESCENT LIGHTING

T ask lighting does more to make akitchen a comfortable place in which to

work chan any ocher improvement.Without it. you are in your own shadow whenyou work at a counter. Once lights areinstalled. you will be pleasantly surprised athow much easier kitchen work becomes.

This welJ-lit

kitchencombinesoverhead canlights with covelighting (on topof 'the cabinets)and under-cabinet lighting.

TOOLS: drill; screwdriver; keyhole sawor reciprocating saw; wire strippers; cablestripper; knife; hammer; lineman's pliers.

WHAT YOU'LL NEEDMATERIALS : . fluorescent fixtures:electrical cable; junction box; twist-onwire connectors; metal cable protectors;electrician's tape; surface-mountedwiring channels and connectors, ifinstalling with cabinets in place; fishtape; electrician's tape.

Fluorescent lighting using standard-voltagewiring makes sense, especially if you arereplacing wall cabinets and have the luxuryof cutting holes in your walls to run cable.Otherwise. plan on installing surface-mountedwiring, often called raceway wiring.Depending on your situation, the wiring canbe difficult. and you may end up with time-consuming wall repairs. If you want to leaveyour cabinets in place and not cut holes inwalls, consider low-voltage halogen lighting(se e p age32).

Before you begin, check your electricalcode requirements. If you have any doubtabout your ability to install these lights, hire alicensed electrician to do the job, particularlyif you have to run a new circuit from theservice panel. Always shut off the power

at the service panel before you do anyelectrical work.

PLAN LIGHTING FORTHE WHOLE KITCHEN

Poor lighting plagues many kitchens. Correctthe problem by coming up with a plan foryour entire kitchen. A well-lie kitchen usuallyhas general ceiling lighting, such as recessedcan lights (s ee p ag es 14-/5), ceiling lights forhighlighted areas, and undercabinct lights.

If your wall cabinets have space abovethem, consider installing cove lighting. Here,fluorescent fixtures are placed our of sight ontop of (he wall cabinets, shining up towardthe ceiling. Cove lighting produces a dramaticeffect. Installing it is easy, since most c r tthewiring can be simply laid on top of (hecabinet.

RUN THE CABLE

Be sure to shut off the power at the servicepanel before you begin. Run power to aswitch box and then run cable to theindividual fluorescent fixeures.Check each

fixture (0 see where the cable will curer it..Plan on a series of fixtures running along (heunderside of your cabinets, covering abouthalf of the total length of the cabinets.

If the cabinets are removed, run most ofthe cable in the space that will be covered bythe new cabinets. Carefully mark the exactlocations of the bottoms of cabinets and avoidmaking holes that go below the light fixtures.Make notches at the scuds and protect cablewith metal pieces at each stud. Have thecable poke through the wall at the correctspots for entering the fixtures. Work so as to

minimize damage to visible walls-often, wall



repair cakes longer than the electricalinstallation.

To install fluorescent fixtures with thecabinets in place, use a surtace-rnounred(raceway) wiring system. To use it, install thechannels and connectors on the wall and/orcabinet, run the wires, and snap on the

covers. This allowsYOLl to

run high-voltagewiring without cutting holes in walls.

WDRIlING ROOMS

INSTALL THE FIXTURE PLATES

Disassemble each light fixture by removingthe plastic light cover and the housing for thewiring. If the lights do nor come with cableconnectors for clamping the cable as it entersthe light, you will have to buy some. (If your

lights are only an inch thick, you will needspecial small connectors.)Secure the cable connector co the

knockout hole in the fixture plate and push

Fixture plate

INSTALL THE CABINETS

If your cabinets have lips at (he bottom, cutor drill holes for the cable to run through.(Usually, the light fixture is thicker than thelip and covers it. so you don't have to cutprecisely. )

Determine exactly where (he fixtures willbe attached to the cabinets. Usually, it is bestto set the lights as far back as possible so theywill not be visible. If a light fixture will spantwo cabinets that have bottom lips. you willneed to notch the lips to accommodate thefixture. Install the cabinets carefully, so as notto damage the cable where it pokes throughthe wall.

the cable through it. Unless the fixture is atthe end of the fun, two cables will enter it-one bringing power and one sending power tothe next fix[Ure. Be sure there is enough cablein the fixture to allow you to make theconnections. Tighten the connecror to makethe cable secure. Push the fixture plate intoplace and attach it to the underside of [hecabinet. Be sure to use screws that will notpoke into the interior of [he cabinet.

MAKE THE CONNECTIONS

Hook up the wiring, connecting black wiresto black wires, white to white. and ground toground. Because these fixtures are thin. youneed to plan the locations of splices carefullyto ensure [hat the cover can be reattached.

Install the bulbs, restore power [0 the wallswitch, and test. You may need to adjust thebulbs and starters (if any) to get everythingworking. Turn off the power and replace the

covers on the fixtures. Test again.



32 WORKING ROOMS

INSTALL HALOGEN UNDERCAB INET LIGHTING

HOW can you brighten your kitchenwork spaces without the mess andcomplications of standard Iighring?

Halogens supply the answer. Low-voltagelighting means almost no danger while youwork. Because the lights are turned on andoff with a battery-powered remote-controlswitch, there is very lirtle wiring ro connect.In facr, you connecr to power by simplyplugging into a handy electrical receptacle.

Halogen lightsbrighten counterspace beautifullyand require aminimum of

work to install.

Receivermodule

'WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: lights; switch; transformer:power block; wiring (all in a kit).

TOOLS: drill; screwdriver; wire strippers;lineman's pliers.

You will end up with exposed wires, butthey will nor look out of place because theyare so rhino To install a system like this withsix or seven lights. count on spending mostof a day. Near a handy receptacle, drill holesthrough a cabinet to allow wires (0 passthrough. Run wires from the receiver moduleinto the cabinet. Attach a transformer and

power block to the inside of the cabiner andhook up the wires. The wires cannot be cut,so you may have to coil and (ape them our ofthe way.

ATTACH THE LIGHTS

Disassemble each light and artach the base to

the underside of rhe cabinet. Run rhe wiresalong (he cabinet so rhey are not visible.Drill small holes and run the wires into thecabinet, and attach to the power block.

The switch can be installed anywhere.Simply attach the switch housing to [he wallor side of a cabinet with screws. Use plasticanchors to artach to drywall. Install a barrervand screw the coverplate to the housing.

Swirch housing



WORKING ROOMS 3

ADD UNDERCABINET ACCESSORIE S

Lights aren't the only conveniences thatcan be hidden under wall cabinets. Usethis neglected space (0 store items that

would otherwise cake up precious shelf orcounter space. Many small appliances-including microwave ovens, coffee makers,toasters, and electric can openers-mountunder cabinets. Convenient storageaccessories also fit into this space. Look forthem at home centers or kitchen-cabinetoutlets. Cabinetmakers may sell or custom-make accessories, as well. Below aredescriptions of some of the most usefulones.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: accessories andaccompanying hardware; screws,if needed; stain or paint; wood filler.

TOOLS : dri]] with screwdriver bit;screwdriver; rape measure; S,1\V;

sandpaper.

• This wine-glass rack is made from the samemolding that holds glasses within easy reachof a bartender. Locate the rack where you willnot bump the glasses. Measure the spaceunder the cabinet and cut the molding stripsto length. Mount them with countersunkwood screws driven through pilot holes,placing them just far enough apart (0 allowthe glasses to slide between them. Fill thescrew holes; stain and finish or paint.• Whether revolving or stationary, hangingcup holders give YOIJ a handy way to storecoffee mugs or cups under a cabinet. Theycome with the screws needed to mount them.• This kind of holder is perfect for acookbook, knife, or spice racks. Whenneeded, it pulls down and forward on spring-loaded brackets. The fixture comes with

(he screws and instructions needed forinsta [Iation.:

• Sometimes the simplest solutions are best.A row of brass or chrome hooks, evenlyspaced under a cabinet, can showcase yourmug collection or display measuring cups andspoons within easy reach. A simple book rack,made of [he same material as your cabinet,can house all your cookbooks. Or a smallwine rack can house a dozen or so bottles.

A wine-glassrack. cup holder,and book holderare just three ofthe manyaccessoriesavailable forinstalling underyour wallcabinets.



34 WORKING ROOMS

HANG A POT RACK

Freeup cabinet space by adding ahandsome hanging rack to store pots,pans and large items like deep kettles.

(Store the lids using a handy rack in a basecabinet-see page 35.) Buy one (Ita kitchen-supply source or make one according to thedirections below. Hanging or making a rackwill take a couple of hours.

\

TOOLS: for hanging rack-ladder;screwdriver; stud finder; tape measure;pencil; drill; for hanging rack-miterbox; wood glue.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: for hanging rack-screw hooks; chains; ceiling hooks;for making rack-brick molding; woodscrews; wood filler; stain or paint.

MAKE A RACK

Locate the ceiling joists over me rack areaand mark the positions of the ceiling hooks.Measure between them to determine theoverall size and shape of the rack, either asquare or a rectangle.

Cut four pieces of brick molding (0 length.Miter the comets and join with wood glueand countersunk wood screws. fill the screwholes and finish with paint or stain. Drill pilotholes into me top near the corners. Fastenscrew hooks into them and attach the chains.Drill pilot holes in the ceiling hook locations.Tighten screw hooks through the ceiling intothe joists and hang the rack.

Hook commercial hangers over the rack tosupport pots and pans. Or drill pilot holes inthe bottom edge of the rack and insertadditional screw hooks to hang pans.

HANG A RACK

Locate the joists in the ceiling, using a studfinder. As much as possible, match thelocations of the four ceiling hooks with thedimensions of the pot rack so that the chainswill hang straight down.

For each ceiling hook, drill a pilot hole.Screw the ceiling hook into the joist byinserting a screwdriver into it sideways andturning until the flange of the hook touches

the ceiling. Cut (OUf sections of chain to thesame number of links, and attach them to thepot rack. With a helper, lift the rack and hangthe chains on the ceiling hooks.

Count the links in the chain to

determine aqua/lengths. Fasten

hooks directly into ceiling joists for

greatest support.



CABINET RACKS

Fewkitchens have enough storage space.The practical solution is to organizecabinets so they hold more. Wire

storage accessories offer an affordable way todo this. Good home centers, storage-systemshops, and cabinet-supply stores sellsuch accessories. They requireminimal installation, if any, andcome with good instructions and thenecessary hardware. Installing themusually takes less than an hour.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIAJ .S . : racks andholders with. hardware,

TOOLS: screwdriver ordrillwith screwdriver bit; hacksaw;stud finder.

USE EVERY INCHOF SPACE

SHELF RACKS

Be specific when choosing these racks. Decidewhich plates, cups, and other items you wantto store, and make the appropriate purchase.

Sometimes you don't need more space butneed co be able to see the items stored in theback of a cabinet. Tiered shelves are great formaking spices and other small items visible.

WORKING ROOMS

A host of practical accessories makesmaximum use of unused watts,shelves, door backs, and drawers.They include:• Tiered units that SCOreitems atdifferent levels on the same shelf.• Helper shelves that create twoshelf spaces on one shelf.• Cup and lid racks.• Vertical and stacked plate racks.• Vertical dividers that make storageslots for baking sheets and trays.• Kitchen-wrap and paper-bag racks.• Caddy baskets that create shallowshelves on [he back of doors.

Flat grids equipped with hooksand clip-on baskets quickly rum unused wallspace into storage space.

GRID HOLDERSThese make your kitchen a more pleasantworkplace and pur often-used items, such asthe frying pan or spatulas, within quick reach.Choose a model that can be wiped cleaneasily, especially if you will be placing it nearthe cooktop.Take your dimensions along when you buy

the rack, so a home center or specialty storecan cut the holder to tit. If not, cur it yourself}Witha hacksaw. To install it, locate the studsand drive screws through the clips that holdthe grid in place.

DOOR RACKS

When measuring for a rack that will attach [0

the back of a door, make sure it will not bumpinto the cabinet frame; usually, [he rack mustbe at least several inches narrower than thedoor. Make sure, too, that the rack will not beso deep that it bumps into shelves. Cabinetdoors hang on small hinges and are notdesigned to hold a lot of weight, so it may bebest CO choose a small rack.

Easilv installedcabinet and wallorganizers

include a gridholder, anupright rack forlids or plates, acup holder,tiered shelves forsmall items, anda rack thathangs on theback of a door.



36 WORKING ROOM!

C ABINET SLIDE -OUTS AND DRAWE RS

H ere are some more ideas for increasingyour storage space without going to theexpense of adding new cabinets.

Though your kitchen may seem crowded,chances are there is plenty of unused space.Most of these items can be installed in anhour or two.

ROLL-OUT BASKET SHELVES

Eliminate all that kneeling and searchingfor what's in the rear of a base cabinet byinstalling a roll-our unit. They come in avariety of sizes. Many are SHang enough [0

hold heavy pots. Some have lift-our sectionsyou can carry.

There also are roll-out trash-bagholders and undercabinet recyclingbaskets. Measure the opening beforebuying one of these units-theycome only in certain standard sizes.If no rack is available to fit youropening, you may be able to addwood pieces on one or both sidesto accommodate a smaller rack.

The racks slide on two glides.Position each slider so it is levelwith the other and so the front ofthe slider reaches the front of thecabinet frame. Make sure each islevel and install by driving screws.The most difficult part may bemaneuvering into the space todrive the screws .

More ways

to make yourkitchen betterorganized andeasier to use:roll-out basketshelves ofvarious sizes,a sink-front tray,

and half-moonswing-outshelve,s.

•

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: units and accompanyinghardware: screws if needed.

TOOLS: drill with. screwdriver bit;screwdriver; tape measure; small level.

SINK-FRONT TRAY

This tray doesn't hold much, butit can be a great help because itcan keep sponges and other small

cleaning items within easy reachyet out of sight. Measure the falsefrom panel under the sink beforebuying a tray. ....

To install one, pry off the falsefront panel of the sink cabinet.Some panels need to be detachedfrom the inside of the cabinet.Install the hinges on either sidewith screws. Mount the tray ontothe hinges, making sure that theface is in line with the counrertop,

HALF-MOON SWING-OUTS

These shelves let you use the space at theback of blind-corner cabinets. Some attach tothe door and swing out when it opens. Othersmount on a post assembly installed inside thecabinet: they swing our and slide forward.There also are full-round and pie-cut carouselshelf units for full comer cabinets. Measureopenings and cabinet spaces carefully andbring the figures to a dealer before choosingwhich unit is best for you.



REPA IR A DRAW ER

Adrawer (hat sticks or doesn't close allthe way can become annoying. If youleave it chat way, further damage is

likely (0 result as the drawer gets twisted an.d

(orced every day. But there's no reason to livewith this situation. For a modest investmentand an hour or two of your rime, you can getthat drawer gliding smoothly again.

WHAT Y9V'LL NEED

MATERIALS: set of glides withaccompanying hardware, wood glue;small screws or nails.

TOOLS: drill; screwdriver; hammer;damps: small square; small level.

INSPECT THE DRAWERAND OLD HARDWARE

Pull (he drawer all (he way out of the cabinet.Some models simply pull our, some need (0 belifted upward ar (he end, and others havehardware on the sides that must be flipped upbefore the drawer will come our.

Take a look at the drawer. lt should be solidand free of deep scratches. If it wobbles,reinforce it by drilling pilot holes and drivingsmall screws or nails. Or apply- wood glue andclamp firmly for 24 h.ours. In either case, lise asmall square to make Sure (he drawer isperfectly square as you work.

Examine the hardware. Older types mayhave a central runner and plastic rollers oneither side or a similar arrangement. You maybe able to reattach the parts (0 get the drawermoving again. For a more permanent fix,install new hardware as shown below.

WORKING ROOMS

INSTALL NEWSLIDING HARDWARE

This type of drawer hardware costs more rhanothers, but it is easy [0 install, allows thesmoothest glide, and will last for a long rime.

You may need to add strips of wood to theside of the cabinet in order [0 have a surfacefor attaching the glides, but most cabinets willaccept them readily. Use a small shim to raisethe piece slightly above (he cabinet frame.Attach (he (rom end

bydrilling pilot holes

and driving screws. Check for level andattach the rear end.

The other parr of the glide attaches to theside of the drawer. Position it so that the (ranttouches the back of (he drawer face and theflange on [he other end sirs under the bottomof the drawer. Arrach the back with screws,check w ensure the glide is parallel with thebottom of the drawer, and attach (he frontwith screws.

You don't

have to be a

professionalto install new

hardware that

makes a drawer

slide straight

and smoothly.



8 WORKING ROOMS

BU ILT-IN IRON ING CENTER

Save yourself the awkwardness of luggingan ironing board around the house byinstalling a built-in ironing center

between the studs in a utility room or kitchenwall, Equipped with drop-down board,

electrical outlet, timer, light, clothes hook,and storage shelf, this readv-ro-install cabinetmakes a bothersome chore much easier.

Installing the cabinet will rake about half aday. but providing electrical service may take

8 while. especially if youneed to add a new circuit.

Before vou begin, checklocal electrical code

--~------------- requirements. If you haveany doubt about your abilityto wire the center, hire alicensed electrician to dothe job.

PLAN THE LOCATION

Designed for recessed

mounting, the cabinetrequires an openingmeasuring 1414inches wideand about 48 inches high.The wall must be a standard4Yl inches thick or thicker.You need at least 16 inchesof wall space on one side

[ [ of the opening to

r =======~ J ! - =T=== : : : : J ~ , , : : : [ = = : : : : ; - = = :accornrnodare the door'sI swing and 47 inches of open

(loor space in fromto accommodate the openironing board. Whenclosed, the cabinet projects2 Y l inches into the room.

Decide how high abovethe floor the ironing ...board should stand; thisdetermines how highabove the floor to starr rh e

opening. See the manufacturer's chart for theappropriate measurement (or your specificironing-board cabinet.

An ironingcenter allowsyou to quicklyhide or pullout an ironingboard.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: built-in ironing center;2X4s; lx4. if needed; lOd nails; shims:No. 12 lVl-inch screws; electricaljunction box; IS-amp circuit breaker, ifneeded; electrical. cable; twist-type wireconnectors, electrical tape, cableconnectors; cove molding; finishingnails; wood filler; stain or paint.

TOOLS: scud finder; tape measure;pencil; carpenter's level; keyhole orreciprocating saw; hammer; nail set;lineman's pliers; wire stripper.

CUT THE OPENING

The ironing unit must be installed betweentwo wall studs that have a 14J/l-inch spacebetween them. Use a stud finder to locatestuds, or use a hammer and nail, taking carenot to make test holes outside the area wherethe unit will go.

Once the studs have been located, lighrlydraw the outline of the cutout on the wall.Use a keyhole saw or reciprocating saw tocut it our. YOLl will actually use the studs asguides, holding the saw blade against themas you cut, to make straight vertical cuts.Do not saw roo deeply, or you may poke ahole in rhe other side of the wall.



Cut short pieces of 2x4 blockingto fit horizontally between thestuds, and install one at the top andone at the bottom of the opening. Check thesize of the opening and make adjustments byadding a lx-l piece, if necessary.

The ironing cabinet has at least oneknockout hole for the electrical service.Punch one out and install a cable clamp.Pull the cable into the cabinet and tightenthe clamp to secure the cable. Set the cabinet

in the opening, then plumb and shim to fit.Use a small"square to see that it is not Out ofsquare; otherwise, the unit may not operatesmoothly.

Starring a foot from the top, drill pilot. holes every 2 feet or so along the sides andbottom of the cabinet frame. Drive screwsthrough the frame into the studs. Test theironing board and make adjustments, ifneeded, by shimming.

INSTALL THEELECTRICAL SERVICE

Check the label on your ironto see how many amps itpulls. You may be able tograb power from. an existingkitchen circuit, as long asdoing so will not cause YOLl

to overload the circuit.Or it may be necessary toinstall a new lS-ampcircuit. Consult anelectrician ifyou areunsure about this step.

Shut of( the power atthe service panel. Fishcable from a nearbylighting outlet,receptacle, or new circuit

into the ironing centeropening. If you need torun cable across studs,cut notches and installprotective metal plateswherever there is dangerof hitting the cable witha nail. Leave 2 feet or soof extra cable hangingout to make sure vouhave enough ro workwith when vou install thecabinet.

INSTALL THE CABINET

Wl)8ltlNG RODMS' 3

2x4 blockinq

Standard 16-inchon center framing

Ironing c.enterpushes intohoie cut in wallbetween studs

Iii,II

II

II

II

II

...... ~ I... .I

II

. . . . . . J .t. ..:-""" ... .. .....

Electr,jca I su pplymust be ableto handle thearnperaqe ofthe iron

Strip the cable sheathingthen the ends of the wires.

Connect the wires to the pigtails in thebottom of the wirewav of the ironing centerand install the cover. Restore power and testthe receptacles.

Trim around the center with cove molding,mitering the comers and driving finishingnails. Set the nails and fill the holes. Repairrhe wall where you ran the cable. Stain andapply a clear finish, or prime and paint.

Off-the-shelf

units are

designed to fitbetween the

studs of a wall.



40 WORKING ROOMS

ADD A CABIN ET-ENDBOOK RACK

Put the exposed ends of kitchen cabinetsto work with [his simple cookbookholder. It's sized to fit the end of any

base cabinet, particularly on a peninsula or

island. Build two and place them 15 inchesapart, securing rhem (0 rhe cabinet with woodscrews. If you like, you also can make theholder 12 inches narrower to fit the end of awall cabinet.

Take the end-piece pattern (b elow ri gh t)to a copy center, and enlarge it until it is fullscale. Use it to trace and cut one end piece

with a saber saw; sand it smoorh. Use the firsrend piece as the pattern for the ocher one.

Cut the shelf out of lx4 and the two slatsout of lx2. Measure accurately and drill pilotholes in each piece as shown in theillustration below. Be sure [0 align the pilarholes in adjoining pieces.

Apply glue to rhe shelf ends and screw rheend pieces [0 them. Apply glue to the frontedges of the end pieces and screw the lx2slats ac.ross the front, aligning them so theyare parallel. Sand the holder lightly. Clean upthe sanding dust. Fill (he screw holes and letdry. Sand over the fiUed holes until level.Clean up the dust. Stain and applypolyurethane finish, or prime and paint: allowthe shelf to dry completely before installing.

Set the holder against the cabinet, with (he

bottom of the end pieces 13 inches below thebottom edge of the counterrop. (Increase thisdistance if you have very tall books.) Markthe position of the holder on the frame byscoring through the pilot holes with a nail orscrew. Set the holder aside. At the scoringmarks, drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle.Reposition me holder and drive screwsthrough the pilot holes into rhe cabinetframe. If adding a second holder, place it sothat the bottom edges of the end pieces are15 inches below the bottom edges of the firstholder. Fill the screw holes. Lee dry. Sand and

[Ouch up with stain and clear finish, or paint.

Another way touse every inch of

kitchen space:

Add a book rack

or two to the

end of a cabinet. .WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: lX4s; lX2s; 14 l-Inchwood screws; four +-inch wood screws;wood glue; wood fiUer; wood stain andpolyurethane finish, or primer and paine

T'OOLS: saber saw; tape measure;pencil; framing square; jigsaw; drill;Y'1.-inch dfil! bit; screwdriver bit;220~grir sandpaper; sanding block;putty knife; paintbrushes.



WORKING ROOMS

ROMANTIC IZE A CLAW-FOOT TUB

Iou have an old stand-alone

cub that looks dingy, don'tassume that YOLl must have a new

shower or bathtub installed in orderto improve your bathroom. Bydressing the tub up with paint,adding a new shower/circular rodunit, and purchasing an attractivecurtain, you can save money-andgive your bathroom a distinctivetouch. The entire project will take aday or (WO, depending on thecondition of your rub.

PAINT THE TUB

If the inside of your rub is scratchedor heavily stained, buy a two-parr

epoxy enamel made for finishingtubs. Clean and lightly sand thetub. Wipe away the sanding debrisand allow the tub to dry completely.Apply the paine. (S ee p age s 4 6-4 7fo r deuu le d instructions. )

If the claw feet are rusty, takethem off, if possible (support therub with pieces of lumber beforeremoving them). Or work on themin place if you cannot. Scrape offmost of the rust with a wire brush.Spray on some rusty-metal primer.Clean and sand the outside of thetub, then paint the feet and theoutside of the tub.

INSTALL FAUCET. ROD.AND SHOWERHEAD

Shut off the warer-supplv, Remove me faucetand take it to a dealer. Purchase a unit thatincludes tub spout, showerhead, curtain rod,and rods for attaching ro ceiling and floor.

Hook up (he faucet, using Teflon tape forall the connections. Next comes the pipewith the showerhead. Using a hacksaw, cut

the rod securing the shower pole to the wallso that the pole will be plumb and parallel tothe wall. Attach the flange [Q the rod and therod to the pipe, then attach the bottom of thepipe [Q the tub faucet. Secure the rod to thewall with screws driven into studs. Or useplastic anchors jf you do nor hit a stud.

I( possible, enlist a helper for installing thecircular shower curtain rod. Hold it in place,

check for level. and measure for cutting therod that extends up ro the ceiling. Cut therod and fasten the flange ro its top end. Screwthe bottom end into the curtain rod andattach the flange to the ceiling with screws.

You will need two curtains. An all-clothcurtain is often preferred over one with aplastic liner because it won't mildew as easily.

An old-fashionedtub with showersurround lendscharm to a

bathroom andsaves the cost ofinstalling a newtub or shower.

WH_AT YOU'LL NEEDMATERIALS: two-part epoxy enamel;alkyd- or alcohol-based printer; paint foroutside of tub; fusty-metal printer;shower-and-circular-rod assembly withaccompanying hardware; Teflon tape;TSP or other heavy-duty cleaner ..

TOOLS: channel-type pliers; pipewrench; drill; screwdriver; tape measure;sanding block; 120-grit sandpaper; level;paintbrushes; wire brush; hacksaw.



BUILD A UNIT

WORKING ROOMS 4

To save time, purchasea ready-made shelf (hat

will fit into your opening.Be sure it is not only theright width and heightbut also the correctdepth. If you do notmind a cabinet thatprotrudes into thebathroom, buy a deeperunit and trim it around[he sides.

To build your owncabinet, first decidewhether the rearwallboard looks good

enough to act as a backfor the cabinet. If not,cut a piece of plywood[0 f ie snuglv into theopening.

Rip-cut lx6 lumber tothe correct width so thefront edge will be flushwith the face of yourbathroom wall. You canask a lumberyard to dothis for you.

Cut two pieces to theheight of the opening,minus Y sinch to makesure these pieces will fit.Cut two pieces to the widthof the opening, minus 1% inches( 1 V 2inches to accommodate the thicknessof the two lx4 vertical pieces and V 8inchto make sure it firs).

Assemble the four pieces on a flat workingsurface. Drill pilot holes near the ends of thevertical pieces and drive 2-inch screws, rwoper joint, through the verticals and into thehorizontals. Check [0 see that the comersremain square as you work.

Install metal sheLf standards, two on eachof the vertical pieces. Be sure they all are atthe same height and check to see that they allface the same direction (it's easy to get oneupside down). Fasten with rhe shore screws. that come with the standards.

This built-in shelfunit putsotherwisewasted spaceinside-thebathroom wallto good use.

ADD DOORS AND TRIM

Use small shims to position the bifold doorso it is centered inside the frame. Markthe hinge positions with a utility knife.Either install the hinges right on the door

and the frame, or use the knife and a chiselto cut mortises-precise, shallow CLltouts-to accommodate the hinges. Drill pilot holesand attach the hinges with screws.

Purchase molding of your choice-ranchcasing for a simple look or colonial casing fora more old-fashioned appearance. Miter-cutthe corners and install with flnishing nails sothat the molding covers about half of thetronr edge of the cabinet frame.

Paint or stain the cabinet and door. Applyplenty of finish because bathrooms are usuallyvery humid.



44 WORKING ROOMS

IN STA LL A MEDIC IN E CABIN ET

Y our family spends a good deal of timestaring at a mirrored medicine cabinet,so it makes sense to have one that is

attractive and useful. Depending on thelighting in your bathroom, you may want toadd lights either at the top or on the sides.And if you find that you have to stretch

An attractive

light strip above

this mirrored

medicine cabinet

makes it 8

pleasant place to

start the dB y.

TOOLS: drill; stud finder; screwdriver;level; keyhole saw or saber saw; chisel;tape measure; level; framing square;pencil; also lineman's pliers, utilirv knife,and wire strippers, if installing lights.

WHAT YOU'LL NEEDM_ATERIALS: medicine cabinet; shimsand trim molding, if needed: also cableconnectors, electrical cable, junctionbox, twist-on wire connectors, andelectrician's tape, if installing lights.

electrical cords across the bathroom, you maywant to choose a model that comes equippedwith a GFCI {ground fault circuit interrupter}receptacle. Installing a simple cabinet wil]take a few hours at most; adding electricalservice and lights can take much longer. Ifyou are not sure of your electrical knowledgeand skills, consult with or hire an electrician.

FLUSH-MOUNTEDOR RECESSED?

A flush-mounted cabinet simply mounts to

the surface of the wall; putting one in is asnap. However, it probably will be shallowerthan a recessed cabinet, and it will protrudeinto (he bathroom space.If your bathroom does not have a recessed

cabinet, there most likely is a reason.Chances are, plumbing pipes lie directlybehind the space, making it impossible tofully recess a medicine cabinet. You may want(0 settle for a flush-mounted cabinet.

But if every inch of space matters and vouwant a deeper cabinet, it may be worth yourwhile to open up the wall and investigatewhether you can at least partially recess thecabinet. Then you can trim it with moldingto give it a finished appearance.

REMOVE THE OLD CABINET

If the old cabinet has electrical lights or areceptacle, shut off the power CItthe servicepanel before proceeding. Remove light bulbsand electrical cover plates. Disconnect" wiresand loosen cable clamps so that the cable canslide freely rhrough the holes.

Empty the cabinet and look for screws ornails holding the cabinet in place. Unscrew orpry out the fasteners, and lift out the cabinet.Avoid damaging electrical cables as you work.

Measure the rough opening and look for acabinet that will fi[. In the case of old houses,you may need (0 enlarge the opening (a messybusiness) or close it up some. If the flange ofthe new cabinet does not cover the openingcompletely, you will need to install molding.

CUT AND FRAMEA NEW OPENING

Use a stud finder or a hammer and nail to

locate the studs. If possible, position thecabinet between studs; otherwise, you willhave to cut a notch in asrud (0 make roomfor the cabinet.

Draw the rough opening of the cabinet onthe wall, checking to see that it is level and



square. It should be centered over the sinkand at a height that will make the mirrorusable by all members of your family.

Work carefully to avoid cutting throughany pipes or electrical cables hidden insidethe wall. Blueprints may show you where (hepipes are. If there is a plumbing access panelon the other side of the wall, open it and lookaround with a flashlight. Cut slowly, feelingfor anything that might be a cable or pipe.Though a keyhole saw is slower than a sabersaw, it is safer. Notch studs as needed. Ifelectrical cable needs to be moved, shut offthe power at the service panel beforetouching it.

RUN ELECTRICAL SERVICE

Shut off the power at the service panel. Runpower to the switch then to the opening. Ifyou will be installing lights only, there's no

need to worry about overloading a circuit.However, appliances like hair dryers canrequire plenty of amperage; so if you areinstalling a receptacle. make sure that thecircuit does not service other heavy-amperageappliances or outlets.

Wire connections must be inside a junctionbox installed in the wall (as shown) or inside

Don' t put in lightbulbs unt il the uni tis completelyinstalled

rhe box that is part of the cabinet. Strip thecable sheathing and [he tips of the wire ends.Connect to the wires (or rhe light (black wireto black wire. white to white, and ground toground). Replace the cover plate and securethe cable.

INSTALL THE CABINET

This is usually a simple task. Slide the cabinetinto place and check that it is level andplumb. Make sure the door does nor open orclose by itself; you may have to shim out thebottom or the top if it does. Attach thecabinet to scuds or other framing pieces bydriving screws.

TRIM OUT A PARTIALLYRECESSED CABINET

If you can't slide the cabinet in all the way

because of an obstruction in the wall, slide itin as far as you can and attach to the studswith screws. Wrap the perimeter of thecabinet with molding to cover the gapbetween wall and cabinet. If (he side of (hecabinet is unattractive, wrap ie with molding.

WORKING ROOMS 4

Power entersthe sw itch box,then proceedsto the cabinet

Frame the opening,if necessary; makethe electricalconnections; slidethe cabinet in;and secure it to theframing withscrews.



46 WORKING ROOMS

REFIN ISH A TUB

Iour rub has surface cracks or places

where the enamel finish has eroded, or if itis stained or just plain dingy, a brand-new

rub may seem the only solution. However, ifyour plumbing is otherwise sound, considerrefinishing the tub yourself. This method willnot make the tub as good as new bur willmake tt look a whole lot better ar a much

lower cost than purchasing a new tub andhiring a plumber to instal! it. (Keep in mindthat in many homes rhe rub was installedbefore the bathroom walls; therefore, you mayhave to cut through a wall to replace it.)Refinishing a tub yourself doesn't takeparticular skills, just patience and carefu Iwork. Count on spending most of a day

preparing and painting the rub. Inaddition, the refinished tubrequires several days to dry andcure before you can use it.

Give your tubyears of new lifeende fresh look

by' refinishing ityourself. WHAT YOU'LL NEED

,IMATERIALS: two-parr epoxy enamel;trisodium phosphate or other heavy-dury cleaner; rags; masking rape; auto

body filler, if needed.

TOOLS: drop cloth; sanding block;100- and 220-gri.r sandpaper; naturalbristle paintbrush; purrv knife.

REFINISHINGOPTIONS

There are plenty ofprofessional rub refinishers. If

you hire someone who uses aurethane rather than anepoxy linish, you will end upwith better results than youcan achieve yourself.Urethane maintains its colorbetter than epoxy and isalmost certain not TO crack.A good company will applythree coats; you will have towait three days before usingthe tub. Make sure thecompany has been inbusiness for a while and canback up its guarantee.

But a good refinishing jobcosts plenty of money.Although the result will bebetter than a do-it-yourselfeffort, you still will have a

refinished tub. You must becareful nor to scrarch it, and

the surface will not look quite asgood as that of a brand-new rub.

Before hiring a professional refinisher,check wirh a plumber for rhe price of a newtub. It may not cost much more chan

refinishing. Keep in mind that you may haveTO repair your walls, roo; a new cu b may be(he best solution if you were thinking ofchanging your tiles anyway.

CLEAN AND PREPARE THE TUB

Ir is important ro do this carefully, or theepoxy may bubble or flake in rime.Thoroughly clean the tub with a strongcleaner. Use sandpaper (0 smoorh any highspots and rough up the entire inner surface ofthe tub. First go over it with mediurn-gritpaper, chen use fine paper.



If the tub has any chipped-out areas orindentations, mix a small amount of aurabody filler, apply it with a putty knife, allowit [0 dry, and sand perfectly smooth.

Carefully cover the walls next to the tubwith masking tape. If mere is a spout orhandle in danger of getting spattered withenamel, remove or cover it completely withmasking tape.

Wipe away all dust with a clean, dry ragand take steps [0 ensure that no dust entersthe bathroom. Wait at least overnight for thetub to become absolutely dry.

MIX AND PAINT

Open the cans of the two-part epoxy, andthoroughly mix as much as you will need.Brush on the epoxy, using a high-qualitybristle brush that is not likely to lose bristlesas you work.

Painting epoxy is a bit tricky. Move thebrush in one direction only instead of back

G RDDMS

and forth. Cover each area completely beforemoving on and go over the surface only once;if you go back over a spot a minute or so later,the paint may peel away or you may end upwith an unsightly ripple.

Allow the paine to dry for a day, thenrepaint. Once you have finished, peel themasking tape away. Keep the area dust free(or several days before using the tub.

ORDER A TUB INSERT

Here's another solution: You can find acompany that specializes in making fiberglassor high-gloss acrylic inserts that fit into yourrub. Hundreds of sizes and styles are available.The company will measure your rub, thenreturn several weeks later with an insert. Theinsert is permanently glued to the old tub,giving you a surface that is superior to arefinished tub. This process, however, costs

more than refinishing.

To refinish a tub,begin by patchingany chips in the

enamel and

sanding thesurface beforeapplying the tubrefinishing paint.

Loosen or remove any

fixtures attached to ' thetub before refinishing

Fill chips with

auto body filler

" .

Brush epoxy inone direction only

Sand originalsurface to ensureftnish adhesion



48 WORKING ROOMS

R EPLACE A FAUCET

N othing gives away the age andcondition of a home more quickly chanits plumbing fixtures. Why not replace

them? Faucets come in many styles; most aredesigned for do-it-yourself installation andcome with easy-to-follow instructions. Just besure the faucet is sized for the fining holes ofthe sink.

A new faucet

quickly upgrades

a bathroom or

kitchen. It can be

easier to install

than you might

expect.

REMOVE THE OLD FAUCET

Removing old faucets may be the mostdifficult part of the job. Clean everything outfrom under the sink and put a temporary lightin the area. If you need marc work room,disconnect the Pvrrap, draining its contentsinto a bucker. Set a towel in the area to makeit more comfortable.

For a bathroom sink with a pop~up drainassembly, disconnect the pop-up rod byloosening the thumbscrew on the clevis (seepage 49). Slide the rod up and out.

Turn off the angle stops of the faucet. Ifthere are no stops, you need to shut off water

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: faucet assembly withaccompanving hardware; supply linesand connectors, i f needed (s ee /)a ge49);Teflon tape; plumber's putty.

TOOLS: channel-type pliers; adjustablewrench; pipe wrench; basin wrench;screwdriver; tube cutter; hacksaw.

co the whole house and drain the line byrunning a faucet on a lower floor until thewater stops. Place a bucket LInder one anglestop. With a crescent wrench or pliers, loosenthe nuts that join the water supply line (alsocalled a riser) to the stop and the faucet.If the space is tight (it often is), a basinwrench is essential. Remove the supply line.Repeat with the other angle stop. Thenremove the mounting locknuts that securethe faucet co the sink. Here, again, a basin

wrench comes in h.andy.Climb out from under the

sink. Gently rock the faucetto break its contact with thesink and thoroughly clean thesink deck.

SECURE THE FAUCET

Place the gasket on the bottom

of the faucet escutcheon. If agasket isn't provided, useplumber's putty. Set the newfaucet in place. To secure it tothe sink deck, use a basinwrench co screw on and tighteneach locknut and washer orspacer on the underbody. Acenter-set faucet, in which the

spout and handle are one unit,may require a single large locknut and

washer over the hot and cold water supplytubes and connectors before it can be screwedto the faucet underbody. Followthe manufacturer's

Use a basin wrench to disconnect the supply

lines at the faucet and to loosen the nuts

holding the faucet in place.



directions. Either way,fastening the faucet co thedeck is easier i f someoneholds it in place whileyou work.

CONNECT

THE SUPPLIESConnect the faucets andtheir angle stops withtheir water supply tubeshy gently shaping thetubes to align with thetwo parts. Choose fromthree types: copper supplyrubing; chrome-platedcorrugated-copper supplytubing, which is slightlymore flexible (han copper;or vinyl or stainless-steel-

braided flexible waterconnectors. Each type issized by its outside diameter(often labeled as "0.0.").

Flexible tubing is sold in precut lengths so itdoesn't require cutting or bending. It comeswith a captive compression nut and supply nut,so it installs without additional washers, rings.inserts, or sleeves. TI1is means it screws rightonto the adapter and angle stop of a faucet anddoes not require Teflon tape. Consider youroptions carefully, and don't cut the tubes untilyou've shaped them and are confident they willalign properly.

If required. tightly wrap the faucet end ofthe tubing several times with Teflon tape.Insert the rube in one of three types ofconnectors.• BULL-NOSE FLEXIBLE TUBES: Slip theprovided coupling nut onto the rube. Pushthe top end partway into the faucet 'sadapterand tighten the nUL Work carefully so youdon't strip the threads.• SLlP-.lOINT CONNECTION: This is theideal connector for copper tubes. Be sure touse the size washer specified by the faucetmanufacturer. Slip the coupling nut, washer.

and rubber gasket onto the rube, insert therube in the {adapter, and tighten the nut.Work carefully so you don't strip the threads.• FLEXIBLE COPPER INLETS: If yourfaucet has these, be careful not to kink them

'-while you work. or the faucet will be ruined.Use two wrenches, one to keep the copperline from twisting and the other to tightenthe supply line.

Finish by cutting the tube to the properlength, jf necessary, and by pushing thebottom end all the way into the angle Stop.Tighten the compression nut and ferrule.

Washer

Locknut

WDRKlffl.G RtlDNtg

Supplytubes

valves

Install the locknut andholder for the sprayer in the

correct hole in the sink's deck. Thread thehose down through the holder and attach to

(he sink's underbody and faucet, following themanufacturer's directions.

Turn on the water. Remove the aerator andturn on the faucet. Let the lines flush for oneminute. Then tum the faucet off and replacethe aerator.

Install thefaucet on thedeck, thenhookup thesupply lines.

pop-up DRAIN

Slide the rod through the opening m thefaucet. and slip it through the holes in theclevis strap. Tighten the thumbscrew on theclevis strap and rest. The stopper should sealwhen the rod is pulled up. Adjust i f necessary.



50 WORIUNG ROOMS

IN STALL ANEW VANITY

A vanity provides handy storage spacefor large containers below the sink. Italso adds a bit of cabinetry to your

bathroom. Surprisingly, a vanity is actuallythe easiest type of sink to install. The cabinetwill cover all the plumbing. Count onspending a day to remove a wall-hung sinkand to replace it with a vanity.

CHOOSING A VANITY

If you have the space, get a large vanity. Notonly will you have more storage, but youwill gain more counter space by the sink.

~~

You can chooseamong a large

variety ofcabinet styles

and sinkmaterials to find

a vanity that fi tsyour bathroomdecor.

WHAT YOV'LL NEED

MATERIALS: ,Ianity cabinet with [OPifaucet: supply lines; Teflon tape; sinktailpiece, P trap; shims, if needed; longscrews.

TOOLS: channel-type pliers; pipewrench; adjustable wrench, basinwrench, drill: saber saw; screwdriver;level; hacksaw.

For ease of installation and lowmaintenance, buy a unit with an integral sinkand countertop, meaning that only onemolded piece sits on top of the cabinet.

The cabinet should feel solid. Avoid unitswith doors made of particleboard. The cabinetshould have a solid paint or polyurethanefinish to protect against the humidity of abathroom. A unit without a back will beeasier to install than one with a plywoodsheet that you have to cut for the plumbing.

For the counrerrop, synthetic marble maybe your best bet. It is sturdy and has a surfacethat will stay shiny for years. Plastic andfiberglass will dull over rime. Vitreous chinais the best surface but is very expensive.

REMOVE THE OLD SINK

Shut off the water at the stop valves belowthe sink. If there are no stop valves, shut off

the water to the house and drain a faucet on alower level. Set a bucket under the Pvrrap,and disassemble it with channel-type pliers ora pipe wrench. If it looks worn, plan onreplacing it. Disconnect the supply lines atthe stop valves.

If you have a wall-hung unit that just restson a wall bracket, simply lift it up and out. Ifit doesn't budge, it may be connected (0 (hebracket with bolts, which probably haverusted. Use a hacksaw to cut them.

PREPARE THE PLUMBING

If you don't have stop valves under the sink,now is the time to install them; they come in

.. .

Once you'vedisconnectedthe drain andsupply tubes,simply lift awall-hung sinkf rom its bracket



Stop drainwith a ragto seal of fsewer gas

WORKING ROOMS

Position sink centeredon vani ty and tightagainst the wall

Shim, if necessary,and trim off exposedportion of shim

handy in emergencies. Choose an angle orstraight stop made to fit your type of pipe.Install the valves and rest by turning on thewater. Measure to make sure the supply linesand the drain line will fit inside the cabinet.In most cases, this will not be a problem.

SECURE THE CABINET

If your cabinet has a back, cur holes for thedrain and the supply lines. It is often difficultto fir the pipes through small holes. Becausethe back will nor be visible, you may want tomake a large cutout that will easilyaccommodate all the plumbing. If pipes comeup rhrough the floor, you will need co cutprecise holes in the bottom of the cabinet.For a neater job, use large drill bits rather

than a saber saw, if possible.Set the cabinet in place and check the top

for level in both directions. If necessary, uscshims at the floor or at the wall to makeadjustments. Firmly attach the cabinet to thewall with screws driven into studs.

INSTALL THE FAUCETAND SET THE Top

Set (he sink on irs side and attach. the faucet.Install flexible supply lines that are longenough to reach the stop valves; make sure

they are tight but do not overtighten. lnsrallrhe drain and tailpiece, using plumber's puttywhere the outlet flange rests on the bottom ofthe sink. Install the pop'up drain assembly(s ee p age49),

Lift the sink carefully onto the cabinet andposition it so it is centered from side to sideand tight against the wall.

Level and install

the cabinet.

Then instal l the

faucet supply

Jines, and drain

before mounting

the sink on the

cabinet.

ATTACH THE PLUMBINGAND TEST

Crawl under the sink with a pair of channel,type pliers. Attach the supply lines to the stopvalves and screw them on tight (se e p age49for various types of suppl)'lines).

Install a new Pvrrap or reinstall the old one.Whether plastic or chrome, these pieces ht

together with large nuts and rubber gaskets.Don't attempt to do without a Pvtrap-c-it'snecessary to keep odors Out of your bathroom.Attach the P,crap to the tailpiece and run thedrain line out to the main drain line, which isusually positioned in the wall, Tighten all thenuts but avoid cranking down too hard.

Turn on the stops and look for leaks. Thenturn on the faucet and wacch the drain linefor leaks. Finally, perform the ultimate test:Lift up the rod to stop up the sink and 611 mebowl with water. Open the drain, and lookcarefully for drips. Tighten any leaking jointsand retest until everything stays dry.



5 2 PERSONAL ROOMS

Special paint tecbrtiques truly expressind ividua lity in a personal room. In th is bedroom,

the soft edges of the diamond outlines on thewalls beautifully contrast with the crisp fabrics.



A bedroom ca n be th e

m ost enjoyable room to

im prove because itis a

peYS071ai space ,T lw t give s

)'OU th e freedom. to

decorate it to ref1ectit s

ocwpant's per.mnality

without wmT)ling abottL

how it coordinates with

the 'rest of theIlOuse.

I-/,0 t J )e<t. !er, bedmomcan

be challengingbecause it is

u sua lly a smallspace

fUHheT restricted b)1 doors,

windows, mul fltm iture .

Bedrooms often have fewa rch ite ctu ra l fe atu re s o rtile

space to accommodate

them. No p ro blem. H ere

W'e 10 cleve. ways to m ake

a bedroom mon? auractwe,

comfo nabie , aMeffiCient

withom sj)ending a

fortune. T/l£)' 'range fm m

decoratingwith specialpaint. t rea .tme.ntstD

Q)·gmlizi'l1gcLosets.

Each idea. cl. isgl~ ' I :sesn

unsatisfactory or worn

fe atuTe , h ig hlig hts agood

element, or adds charMier

[Q a room.

IN THIS CHAPTE

Bo rd er o n P er fe ct ioPaint witt) S,[)onge

7 1a g·R oil a I;VaDecorate by Spatte

And D ra gg inCreate a Stenc

Canva s F ioo rc lo t

Ado' a Ce ilin g F aF in d H id den S

in a Sm all C /oseMax/illile a L

Close

Reflect on a DMirro

Hang Ad ju s tS helv es



54 PERSONAL ROOMS

BORDER ON PERFECTION

Wth irs continuous partern, a borderhelps unify a room that is brokeninto small fragments by furniture

and doors. Borders ate easy (0 hang, so use[hem wherever you wish-at the ceiling line(called the frieze), at the soffit line or chairrail (called a dado when (here is no molding),along baseboards, and around windows, doors,and large furniture.

PLAN THE LAYOUT

Most borders come in 5-yard rolls and haveend-to-end patterns thar join with a buttseam. (Nonrnarching ends join with. a double-cut searn.) Plan accordingly, allowing for'1 2inch of material (0 be lost when you cur

each inside corner andeach double-cut seam.Stan the layout in theleast conspicuous cornerof a room, where (hepattern will nor bematched at the seam.

PLACEHORIZONTAL

BORDERS

Continuous horizontalborders always runparallel to the ceiling lineof a room. To ensurecorrect placement, usethese guidelines .

• FRIEZE BORDERS:Measure the width of the

border. Mark this same distance from theceiling at the ends of each wall. Snap a chalkline between the marks. The bottom edge ofthe border should align with the chalk line.

A continuousborder helpsgive a unif ied

feel to a roomwhile adding a

splash of colo r

and design.

To install aborder at thesame time as

wallpaper, paste 'and apply the

border while thewallpaper is st il lwe t. Cut a long

the bottom of

the border with

a straightedge

and knife. liftup the bordersl ightly, and'semove thecutout piece

of wallpaper.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: border wallcoverings;paste; primer/sealer or sizingrecommended for your material.

TOOLS: tape measure; pencil; chalkline; sharp utilirv knife: paste brush,water (fay; stepladder; smoothing brush;framing square; srraighredge, seam roller;sponges; towels.

• DADO BORDERS: The bottom edge of adado is usually 32-33 inches above the floor.but a wide border is typically centered c : 1haline 33 inches above (he floor. Borders alsocan align with windowsills or large pieces offurniture. Decide on the height and subtract(his distance from the height of the room.The result is your border's distance from rhe



ceiling. Make light pencil marks on [he endsof [he walls at [his distance from the ceiling,then snap a chalk line between the marks.The bottom edge of the border shouldalign with this chalk line .

• BASEBOARD BORDERS: Align thebottom edge of the border with the topof the baseboard.

PLACE DOOR ANDWINDOW BORDERS

Borders around openings follow the trimmoldings. For a professional look, theyrequire mitered right-angle comers. Todo this, cut the lengths so they extendseveral inches beyond each other. Lay

them on a worktable exactly as theywill meet on the wall,with the horizontallengths overlapping thevertical. Using a framing - - - - - - - - - -- - - --square, make sure they meet at a true90-degree angle. Pressing firmly with a sharpknife to make sure you cut through bothpieces at once, make a diagonal double-cutseam from the outside to the inside comers.

HANG THE BORDERS

Prepare the border area by applyinga wallcovering primer/sealer orsizing, following the packagedirections. (Ask a dealer for thebest product, if you are nor sure.)Cut the border sections to length.

Mix the paste, or purchase ready-mixed paste: in either case, use aproduct recommended for your material.Lay the border upside down on a flatsurface, and applv paste with a paste brush,starting in the middle and working outward.Fold it accordion style, taking care not towrinkle it. Let it set 3 to 5 minutes. For a

prepasred border, soak it, fold it accordionstyle, and let it set (or a few minutes, open.Then coat it with vinyl-to-vinyl paste.

Ideally, two people work together to hang aborder. Unfolding the border 2 feet at a time,one feeds it to the other, who sets it in placewith a smoothing brush.

PERSDNAL ROOMS

To make a miter-cutcorner, check for squareand slice with a sharputi li ty kni fe f rom cornerto corner

~"""",.---=-,~"""_"__--:::>" Slide these pieces out andbrush the border in place

Apply paste andfold the borderaccordion style.Carefully lift itinto place andsmooth it to

avoid wrinkles.



56 PERSONAl. ROOMS

PAINT W ITH SPONGES

T his versatile finish is quick and easy toapply. Colors are dabbed on the wall,creating a safe, dappled effect, Sponge

light colors over a dark base, dark colors over

a light base. or any other combinationdesired. Tone-on-tone pastels and neutralswork best for beginners. Use three top-coatcolors in addition to the base color. Choose

colors from the same familyrhar are one [0 three [Onesapart on a color chip. Oncethe walls are prepared, allowone [0 two days to sponge abedroom.

Sponging addstexture anddepth to 8 wall,making it a

one-at-e-kindcreation.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: flat. eggshell. or satinfinish latex or alkyd interior paint;spackle; spray-on crack sealer: heavy-duty cleaner; stain-killing primer/sealer;oil glaze or glaz.ingliquid; paint thinner;mineral spirits. polyurethane finish.

TOOLS: plastic sheets and drop cloths;stepladder; roller with /I6-inch or Y:!-inchnap sleeve; natural sea sponges withmedium-size holes; sanding block; 120-grit sandpaper; paint [rays; buckets;stirring sticks; paintbrush; scrap paper.

PREPARETHE WALL

Repair any cracks and holes inthe wall, filling with spackleand sanding and/or using spray-on crack sealer. Wash the walls

with a heavv-duty cleaner, suchas trisodium phosphate, or givethem a light sanding. If youhave stains, apply a coat ofstain-killing primer/sealer.

Apply [he base coat with aroller and brush for consistentlycomplete coverage. Apply twocoats if necessary.

Set up your work sire so youcan easily reach all parts of thewalls without continuallystopping to move something.For instance, use a small ladderthat you can quickly move withone hand, rather [han a largeone that requires you to moveeverything in order to shift itsposition.

LOAD THE SPONGE

For the sponge coats, you can usefull-strength paint, a wash (1 part latex

paint thinned with 5-9 parts water,depending on the translucency desired), ora glaze (alkyd paint thinned with equal parts

of an oil glaze or glazing liquid and paintthinner).

Soak the sponge in water and wring it outuntil it is damp. Dip it in paint and dab offthe excess on scrap paper.

To get the same amount of paint on thesponge each time, use a quart can. Loosenthe lid and place it firmly back on topwithout pounding it tight. Tip the can upsidedown, then set it right side up again. Reopen[he can and dab the sponge in the fresh painton the inside of the lid.



ApPLY TO THE WALL

Dab the sponge straight up and down on thewall. Do not twist or roll it. Make quickmovements in a random pattern over thewall. Occasionally give the sponge a quarterturn clockwise to avoid producing anidentifiable pattern. Work in areas about

4 feet square, randomly dabbing the spongein spots about 12 inches apart so that thelighter-colored dabs will be mixed equallywith the heavier dabs made soon after youhave loaded the sponge. Allow pleney of basecoat to show through this first sponge coat.Allow it to dry.

Apply the second color the same way,overlapping some of the first strokes. Let dry.Apply the third color, overlapping some ofthe first and second strokes and still lettingsome of the base color show through. Let dry.

If you find that you sponged too heavily ina spot, you can lighten the dark spot bysponging some of the base coat over it.

FILLING IN CORNERS

If you try to dab all the way into a comerwith a full-sized sponge, YOLl may get anuneven appearance. Try using a lvinch brush,dipping. wiping it off, and dabbing it as youdid with the sponge. Or make a special comersponge by cutting one edge of a piece ofsponge that has the same-sized holes as thelarge sponge. Dip the uncut portion of thesponge and use it with the cut edge against

the comer. .

ApPLY FINAL WASH

Dilute (he base color to a very thin wash (8\ or 9 parts water to 1 part latex paine) or glaze(5 parts oil glaze or glazing liquid to 1 parteach alkyd paint and paint thinner), and dabit over the topcoats to blend the colors. Orapply a coat of satin finish polyurethane thathas been thinned with mineral spirits.

PERSONAL ROOMS

Dip the sponge,

gently wipe offthe excess, andapply to the wall

in evenlv spaceddabs.

Repeat theprocess two orthree times withvarious colors

for a richlvcomplex wall

surface.



58 PERSONAL ROOMS

RAG-ROLL A WALL

R ag-rolling is one of the bolderways to finish a wall. It is similarin technique to sponging, but you

use rolled-up rags to give walls a sophisticatedtexture. Because of its somewhat complexeffect, rag-rolling does a wonderful job ofhiding imperfections in a wall.

There are fewer color rules with thistechnique than with. other faux paintingmethods. Roll light colors over a dark basecoat or vice versa. Don't hesitate to mixcolors that are very different from each other;experiment on a piece of paper to find

exciting combinations. After preparingthe walls. count on spending one ortwo days applying the base coat and(WO or three rag-roll coats.

A rag-rolled wall

is fancier than

sponging and agreat way to

express yourtaste.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: flat. eggshell, or satin

finish latex or alkyd interior paint; spray-on crack seater; spackle; trisodiumphosphate or other strong cleaner; stain-killing primer/sealer; polyurethane finish;oil glaze; glazing liquid; thinner.

TOOLS: plastic sheets: drop cloths,stepladder; roller with ';;6-inch orl;1-inch.-nap; 1l;J- or 2-foot squares oflim-free rags; paint trays; putty knife;buckers; sanding block; l20-gritsandpaper; stirring sticks; scrap paper orplywood; finish brush.

PREPARE THE WALLS ANDAPPLY A BASE COAT

Spread drop cloths or plastic sheetson the floors because this will be amessy project.

Although the technique will

camouflage small imperfections inthe walls, you still need to fill incracks and holes with spackle orspray-on crack sealer. Wash the wallswith a heavy-duty cleaner O r givethem a light sanding throughout. Ifthere are stains, apply a coat of stain-killing sealer/primer.

Apply a coat of base paint. Use aroller and a brush and completelycover the walls; apply two coats ifnecessary.

LOAD THE RAG AND ROLLUse rags of the same materialthroughout the project. Dip the ragin paint and wring it alit sligh try.Then twist or bunch it into a roll.Before you start on the wall,

experiment on scrap pieces of plywoodor large sheets of paper.

Slowly roll the paint-dipped rag. Starr in acomer. Work from the bottom to the top. Letplenty of the base color show. Use two hands,and vary the direction and pressure from timeto time to avoid uniformity.

Roll the next area beside the first andcontinue until the wall is complete. Let thepaint dry and repeat with a new color. Makeeach additional rag-roll coat overlap theprevious strokes. Let the paint dry.

ApPLY FINAL WASH

Dilute the base color to a very thin wash (8 or9 parts water to 1 parr latex paint) or glaze(5 pans oil glaze or glazing liquid [0 1 parteach alkyd paint and paint thinner). Apply itwith a roller and brush over the entire wall.This will help blend the colors together,



If the effect of the colors is too strong,apply an additional wash, made of glaze.water, or acrylic polyurethane mixed with alittle bit of white paint.

VARIATION: CORDUROY RAGGING

This technique produces a series of short, thinlines going in all directions. It makes a wallseem textured, like a piece of rough cloth,

Cut pieces of wide-wale corduroy into12-inch squares. Cut with pinking shears, [0

minimize fraying. (If small pieces of lint getinto [he paint, it will be hard to get the lookyou wanr.) Wash and dry the pieces, and usemasking tape to remove all the lint.

Although you can use the technique withlatex paint, it works best with a mixture of3 parts glazing liquid to 1 part oil-based paint.

This can be applied over a base coat of latexpaint. Pour only a small amount of the glazeor paint into a rray for dipping so that if itgets infested with line you will need [0 discardonly a little.

Bunch up the section of corduroy as if itwere a small pillow, with the cut ends tuckedaway. Dip it lightlvinro paint and test on apiece of paper. Press the cloth lighdy againstthe wall in a series of dabbing motions so thatthe pattern of the fabric is visible. Lift andtwist between strokes to produce a series oflines going in all different directions. Daball over the wall in widely spacedapplications so that darker and lighterimprints will be spread out randomly.

If a rag becomes thoroughly soaked withglaze or paint, it will be difficult to getthe imprint of the cloth on the wall. You

\may be able to correct this by wringingout the rag thoroughly, but it is best [0

discard it and stan with a new rag,

PERSONAL ROOMS

Dip the rag, wring out,and roll on the wall.

ApplV in vertical columnsfrom floor to ceiling, then fillin with successive coats.



60 PERSONAL ROOMS

DECORATE BY SPATTER ING AND DRAGGING

T here are several ways to decorate wallsurfaces without worrying about precisetechniques. You also can come up with

some creative ideas of your own. As with theother techniques. choosing the right colors iskey. Select closely related colors for a subtleeffect or experiment to hnd a combination ofdifferent hues that you like to see together.

~ \

Simple painttechniques canbe easier thanapplying wallcovering andevery bit asdecorative.

To spatter a wall, use a rough-textured tooldipped lightly in paint to apply little dots andsplotches of various colors. Dragging meansthat you apply glaze to a wall and thenremove part of it with a textured orcorrugated (001. For either technique. plan onspending a day applying the finish (0 a wallthat has been prepared and given a base coat.

SPATTERING

The instructions here show two ways tosparrer-one wild and messy (and great forkids) and [he other controlled and tidy. Bothare fun in their own ways. The first isspontaneous, allowing you or your child (0 gocrazy throwing paint around. The second isnearly meditative and soothing.

FREE SPATTERING

A free and loose spattering approach can befun for YOL l ,or it can be a great way to have achild help paint his or her own room. (It willmean hours of work for you and about 15minutes of fun for your child. but (hey will bememorable rninutes.]

After the base coat is applied and dry,cover absolute ly evervrh ing that you do notwant spattered. Mask the woodwork unlessyou want it spattered roo. Use pieces ofcardboard for the windows and doors. Makesure the £loor is completely covered.

Open a small can of paint. Dip a brush inthe can. then spray the paint around theroom willy-nilly, using helicopterlike motions.

There is no need to wait for the first spatter

coat to dry before moving on to the next.Spatter on two O r three coats. Let the paintdry and remove all the masking tape.

CONTROLLED SPATTERING

This technique goes fairly quickly and is oneof the most clever faux techniques. The basecoat will predominate, with the spatteringsacting as accents. First, choose a tool: You canuse a large paintbrush or a pad made (orcleaning grills. Anything with a rough texturewill do; experiment on pieces of paper beforeworking on a wall.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED ..

MATERIALS: flat, eggshell, or satinfinish latex interior paint; spray-on cracksealer; spackle; trisodium phosphate orother heavy -d u ty cleaner; se a in - ki11ingprimer/sealer; oil glaze or glazing liquid ifneeded: polyurethane finish.

TOOLS: plastic sheets; drop cloths;stepladder; Dmsking tape; scrap paper orplywood; roller with 'l'J6-inch or Ydnchnap; paint trays; buckets; putty knife;sanding block; l20-grit sandpaper;stirring sticks; paintbrush; large brush,paint-stripping or grill-cleaning pad, orother rough-textured rool for spattering;graining comb, sciff brush, pieces ofcorrugated cardboard, or notched trowelfor dragging.

For either technique. starr with asmooth, stain-free wall painted with abase coat (see p age58).



After the base coat is dry, mix a glaze of 3pans glaze to 1 parr paint. Pour a little into apaint tray, and dip your roo1 lightly inro thepaint. Touch it to a dry area of the pan to getrid of excess. Dab it onto the wall over alarge area. Repeat and stand back everyonce in a while (0 see that you aregetting fairly consistent coverage.Repeat for the other colors.

DRAGGING

With this technique, you apply paintand then remove some of it to makea pattern. It involves only one glazecolor over a base coat, so the visualinterest comes from the patternrather than from multiple colors.Dragging is a good way to hide thegrooves in painted paneling.

MAKE A TOOL AND TEST

The tool you use will determine thelook of the wall. Mix a glaze andexperiment with different tools andstrokes on a piece of plywood or alarge piece of paper.One of the more effective tools is

made by cutting corrugated cardboardinto l-toot-wide pieces and thenpulling off the paper on one side. Thecorrugations will then be exposed andcan be used to make a series of lines.Make a number of these rools; onceone gets soaked, it becomesineffecti ve.Other options include a squeegee that has

been notched (see page J9) or a notchedtrowel designed for spreading floor-tileadhesive (see p age 7). A stiff-bristled brushor broom also can be used to produce finerlines that are random.

ROLL AND DRAG

Mix the glaze and apply it with aroller. You will have to lise a brush incorners and close to moldings. Workquickly and cover an area about 4 feetwide (rom ceiling to floor. How thicklyyou should apply the glaze depends onyour tool; if it is too thick, you will endup with big globs at the end of a stroke.

Hold the tool with two hands. Startat the top of the wall and pull the tooldown. Or make a checkerboard patternby dragging down and then across,

"'ERSD.NAL. ROOMS

·Gri.ll-cJeaning tool

For a spatteredeffect, dip a grill-

cleaning toolinto." puddle ofglaze, blot it,and dab thewall.

For dragging,use a pieceof corrugatedcardboard

with one outersurface torn off.



eight stitches per inch. Take a large double-layer floorclorh to an automobile upholsteryshop for hemming.

COAT WITH PRIMER

If you like the natural color of canvas, simplypaint [he stencil design directlv on it, In thatcase, be sure to give the floorclorh a heavycoating of polyurethane at the end becausethe light color will not hide din satisfactorily.

Lay the canvas on a flat surface that hasbeen covered with a dropcloth or protectivesheets of plastic.

If the background color is dark, ask a paintsupplier to tint some latex primer so itapproximates the color. Apply the primer andallow (0 dry before applying the base coar.

With a large brush, paint on a base coat offlat latex paine. Work to get a consistenttexture. Ideally, the canvas will be completely

covered with paint, yet the texture of thefabric will show through. Allow the paint todry (or at least 24 hours.

STENCIL OR DRAW A DESIGN

To hand-paint a design, use high-qualityartist's brushes. Draw the design with faintpencil marks or at least draw lines thatindicate the general outlines of the design.Apply the paint using long, fluid strokeswherever possible.

To apply a stencil, first mark our thegeneral layout with faint pencil lines; astraightedge or chalkline may help. Affixthe stencil to the cloth with masking tape.

Using a standard stenciling brush may

cause problems if the base coat is still soft(latex paint often stays soft for a week or twoafter drying). A standard I-inch brush maywork berrer,

Dip the brush inro the painr and removethe excess on scraps of paper. Apply it withpouncing strokes, srraighr up and down.Either fiJI (he open area completely wid,paint or fill the outer edges completely, thengo over the inside portion lightly.

Let the paint dry for three days. Then sealwell by brushing on seven coats of acrylicvarnish or polyurethane finish, letting eachcoat dry before applying the next. Let thefinal coat dry five days before walking on thefloorc loth.

-L

Hem the canvas

by folding overthe edge andadhering it withfabric-to-fabric

glue.

Working aroundthe cloth, dab

the paint intothe stencil.



PERSONIU BOOMS

Support the fixture box bydirectly or indirectly attachingi t to ceiling joistS

,,,A !

If you have no access from above and needto strengthen the box, purchase a specialbrace designed for the purpose. You will haveto cut a hole in the ceiling to install it. Patchand paint rhe ceiling before installing the fan.

If the ceiling box already is controlled by awall switch, YOLl will have no major electrical

workto

do. If you have a ceiling fixturecontrolled by a pull chain, you can leave it orrun electrical cable to the wall and install aswitch. If you need a new box, consult with orhire an electrician.

ATTACH THE BRACKET

Tum off the power. Install the socket hangeror hanger bracket for the fan according to themanufacturer's instructions. Some fans call forthe hanger to be screwed to the double ears ofthe box with the mounting screws, locknuts.and washers provided. Other fans are attachedto the framing, not the box.

Most fans have a hook arrangement thatallows you to hang the fan motor temporarilyin place while you wire it.

WIRE THE FAN

If you have old wiring in the ceiling box,inspect it carefully for damage. Cover anycracked or frayed insulation completely withelectrician's tape. If the wiring going into thebox is damaged. consult with an electrician toremedy this dangerous situation. Strip the tips

of the wires.

For new wiring, make sure that (he cable issecured with a cable clamp and that 8 inchesor so stick out. Scrip the cable sheathing towithin 1 inch or so of the box. Strip the tipsof the wires.

Connecting the wires is usually simple. Ifyou have a light kit, you will probably twist

the fan's blue wire with its black wire andattach that to the house's black wire. Hookwhite to white and ground (0 ground. Usetwist-type connectors for all the connections.

Because fans vibrate, parts of the wiringinside a fan box sometimes make noise byvibrating against the box or each ocher. Useelectrical tape to tie the wiring tightly andOut of the way.

. '"

INSTALL CANOPY AND BLADES

Screw the fan body and the canopy in placeaccording to the manufacturer's directions.Attaching the fan blades will take some time.Attach the blade irons to the fan blades then(0 the motor. lnsrall the light kit, too, if it isnot already attached to the fan motor,

If the fan wobbles. first check that all thescrews are tight. Then make sure ir is hangingstraight down; use a small level to check thedown rod for plumb. Then take the bladesdown and see whether one is warped. If so,take back the entire set and have themreplaced. If one of rhe blade irons is twisted,do the same. If the fan motor wobbles when itis running without blades attached, it IS

defective and should be replaced.



66 PERSONAL ROOMS

FIND HIDDEN SPACE IN A SMALL CLOSET

A n inefficient bedroom closet isfrustrating. It slows you down in themornings by making you hunt for

needed items. Also, clothes tend (0 getsquished and wrinkled because they arecrammed together.

MAP YOUR NEEDS

The standard closet arrangement, with asingle hanging rod and a shelf or two above it,is extremely wasteful of space. If you plan asystem carefully, you can double the amount

of storage area available.The key is [0 tailor thespace so that it will holdspecific items of clothing,accessories, and otherstorage i tems.

Starr by itemizing thenumber, size, and shape ofeverything stored in thecloset. List, for example,shirts, jackets, slacks, andcoats. Line up the shoes

and decide how muchshoe-rack space you need.Stack linens and sweaters,and measure the piles.Place long-term storageitems in boxes and notethe dimensions of theboxes. Nor only list whatYOLl have, but also try (0

estimate any new storageneeds you may requirein the next few years. Oneadvantage in making such alist is that you may discoverrarely used items that reallybelong in the basement,garage, or a charity box.

Measure the closet: front to back, side (0

side, floor to ceiling, and door widths andheights. Draw the closet width and heightmeasurements on graph paper.

Use the recommended storage heights (seepage 68) (0 sketch out the closet arrangement.Plan to use two hanging sections for shortclothing, such as shirts and slacks. Hang longgarments in full-length sections. Install highshelves for seldom-used items, such as

seasonal clothing and blankets. If spacepermits, separate major sections with verticalsections of stacked shelves or drawers. Placeshoe racks close to the floor.

This 6-foot-wide

closet hashanging areas

designed forclothing of threedifferent lengths,

as well as a shoe

rack and shelves.

By mapping

needs and

planningaccordingly, youwaste littlespace, and yourclothes will not

berumpted.

Transform a closet quickly, easily, andinexpensively by installing a modular closetsystem. Such a system works its organizingmagic just as well in hall or linen closets.

The instructions here show how ro organizea 6-foot-wide closet using wire shelves androds. (Pages 68--69 show how to o rganize ala rge r c lo se t us in g s olid -woo d p ro du ce s.)You wi IIneed a day or two to plan, purchase, andinstall wire rods and shelves for a small

bedroom closet.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: wire shelves withhanging rods; vertical wpport poles;hanging brackets with screws.

TOOLS: tape measure; graph paper;pencil; level; stud. finder; drill; hacksaw:screwdriver bit; screwdriver; hammer.

PRODUCTS TO BUY

There are many competing storage systemsand products, so take a look at several systemsbefore deciding. In most cases, you can buycomplete systems that include shelves, rods,and the hardware needed to install them.They also come with a host of storageaccessories, such as tie racks and shoe racks.



There are two main types of do-it-yourselfsystems: those made of ventilating coated-wire components and those made of solidparticleboard components with a high-pressure-plastic laminate. These instructionsapply to coated-wire components.

Instead of buying the hanging rodseparately from the shelves, it usually makesmore sense to buy a shelf that incorporates ahanging rod. Avoid rods that will not allowyou to slide the hangers (rom side to side.

It's a good idea co have a few hooks butnot roo many or your closet will look messy.They usually work best on the back of a door;LIsea few for robes, pajamas, and otherfrequently used items.

Wire slide-out drawers can be handy forlarge items, such as sweaters, but for smalleritems or things you don't want ro look at,such as socks and underwear, use a dresser orpurchase a solid-wood drawer unit (s ee p age s

684)9). Slide-out drawers may not be worththe cost; simple and cheap shelving usuallywork just as well.

INSTALL WIRE SHELVESAND RODS

Recheck the closet measurements for preciseaccuracy if you want a dealer to cur theshelves for you. Go to a home center withyour plan and decide on the productsappropriate to your closet.Be sure the dealer sells you everything

required. You also need to have vertical polesthat support the horizontal shelf/rodswherever you change the shelving or at leastevery 3 to 4 feet to prevent sagging. There areclips for attaching shelves to closet walls, clipsfor attaching shelves to poles, and endbrackets for attaching the forward end of ashelf to a side wall. You will need screws forthe clips and anchors for attaching the screwsin case you do not hit a stud.

Ask the dealer to CUt some or all of thepieces. Or cut them yourself with a hacksaw.Manufacturer's directions will tell you howto take into account the thicknesses of end

brackets when measuring for cutting.Use a level and a pencil to mike faint lines

in the back of the closet showing where theshelves will go. Use a stud finder to locate thestuds. Cut a shelf, slip on the end bracket,

'. and have a helper hold it in place while youcheck for level and attach. Set the level onrap of (he shelf and position. a dip so that thescrew will drive into a stud. Drive the screw,using a drill equipped with a screwdriver bit.If YOLl need to ins rail clips where there is nostud, use plastic wallboard anchors.

PERSONAL ROOMS

Attach the uprights as you go, checkingthat they are level from (rant to back as wellas from side to side.

Install wireshelves byleveling the unithorizontally to

mark for yourclips. Drill andtap the clips intoplace and fastenthem withscrews. Finally,affix the supportbracket looselyin place andlevel the shelfout from thewall beforefastening thebracket.



68 PERSONAL ROOMS

MAXIMIZE A LARGECLOSET'T'he bigger the closer. the more

possibi] iues (or areas designed just foryour needs. A large his-and-her closet

can be set up (0 forestall arguments andrestore marital bliss. Or it can be used tohouse an expansive wardrobe.

You can build your own components, usingplywood or boards for the shelves and woodhanging rods. It will save YOLl some money bur

PLANNING A LARGE CLOSET

Many of the principles that apply to smallclosets apply here (s ee p age 66). Plan byitemizing your clothing and other belongingsto be scored then map our the new closerusing graph paper.

It often helps to divide a large closer in halfor in thirds to make it easier to find things. If

two people share thecloser, thennarurally YOLl candivide it byperson. Or youmay want roreserve pan ofthe closer forcasual clothes

and the otherpart for formalattire or workclothes. Or usehalf (or clothesand rhe orherhalf ro meetstorage needs.

In most casesthe easiest wayto plan is to startwith a shelf ordrawer unitsomewhere inthe middle. Add

shelving areas ofvarious sizes on either

side until YOLI have made room for all yourhanging clothes. Then find room for shoes.ties, boxes, and other items.

If you have a functional bur plain dresser.save money and effort by simply placing it in

A large closetlike this one caneliminate the.

need for adresser, freeingup space in thebedroom.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: wire shelves with closerrods; laminated wooden drawer Cl'nd shelfunits; vertical support. poles; hangingbrackets with screws: shims ifneeded.

TOOLS: rape measure; graph paper;pencil; level; stud finder; dri ll ; hammer;

screwdriver bir: screwdriver; hacksaw.

may not be worth the rime spent cutting andpainting. (Painting can take longer thanbuilding, especially if you have a number ofshort shelves.) Building your own drawersrequires extra rime and tools.

Mixing solid-wood components with wireshelves and rods makes sense for a lot ofpeople because there are some items theywane ro look at and ochers rhey would like tostore. Planning and installing a closet like thiswill rake about two days.

COMMON CLOTHING SIZES

When mapping out your closet space, keep inmind these standard clothing sizes. In order tostay unwrinkled, clothes need elbow room, aswell as enough vertical space to hang freely.

Item Width Length

2 .W "2"1Y 2 "1Y4"1Y i"1Y 2 "

Man's or woman's suitDressSlacks folded over hangerMan's shirtWoman's blouseSkirt

42"6 0 "

3 4 "

38'i34"36"



the closet and perhaps painting it white comatch (he components. Measure for the othercomponents as if the dresser were apermanent part of the space.

OTHER STORAGE OPTIONS

A variety of laminated wood storagecomponents are available, Among them:

• DRAWERS: A stack of drawers makes iteasy to store and access small items. Combinesmall drawers for socks with large drawers (orbulkier items. A shelf unit with drawers keepsswearers and linens dust free.

• HAMPER: A pull-out hamper isconvenient for laundry. Dirty clothes can betossed into the hamper, which can be carriedto the washing machine. Two hampers can be

used to keep colors separated from whites.

• STORAGE CONTAINERS: Equippedwith tight-ficting lids, stackable plastic binskeep items dust free for long-term storage.

• SHOE RACKS: Revolving shoe racks areideal (or people with lots of shoes. Typically,an 8-foot-tall pole that is 16 inches wide willhold up to 24 pairs of shoes.

,,

PERSONAL ROOMS

• BELT RACKS: Slide-out belt racks and tieracks keep these hard-eo-score small items ingood shape.

• FILE CABINETS: Roll-out file cabinetshold hanging files-the easiest kind to use-and can be easily transported (Tom your workarea to the closer.

INSTALLING DRAWER UNITSAND SHELVES

Bring your drawing, with exact dimensions, to

a horne center or other supplier. I( you aresure of your measurements, the dealer can Cutthe components on the spot. Otherwise,count on cutting the wire units with ahacksaw-normally you will not need to cutany of the wood components.

Sec the wood components in place and

check for level. Use shims i( a component isnot level in both directions (0 ensure thatdrawers and doors will operate easily.

Install the wire components (followthedirections on page 67). In some cases, you willattach end brackets [0 a wood unit. Be sure todrill the right-sized pilot hole before drivingscrews because particleboard cracks easily.

Measure andmark the

location of allyour closet unitsbefore installingthem. Level andfasten them inplace, then addcloset rods andshelves.



70 PERSONAL ROOMS

REFLECT ON A DOOR MIRROR

Afull-length mirror on the inside of abedroom closet, bathroom closet, orhall linen closet door provides a

convenient, discreet accessory.Begin by measuring [he door. Buy a flat-

edge mirror approximately 10 inches narrowerand 15 inches shorter than the door, I t should

An inexpensive

full-lengthmirror, affixed to

the inside of acloset door,stays outof sight untilneeded.

WHAT YOU'LL NEEDMATERIALS: mirror with or withoutwood frame; glass cleaner; TSP or otherheavy-duty cleaner; white vinegar;isopropyl alcohol; primer and paint orpolyurethane; mirror mastic or mountingrape, picture-frame molding, 3d finishingnails, and wood tiller, for gluing mirror;or mirror dips with screws.

TOOLS: tape measure; hand or powerdrill; hammer; towels: rags.

have finished edges if you are not installing[rim. There are two installation options:Attach the mirror [0 [he door with mastic ortape or attach with mirror clips. With the firsroption, you can add trim. The project willtake a few hours.

INSTALL WITH GLUE OR TAPE.AND ADD TRIM

Take the door off irs hinges and lay it flat,back side up. If it is bare wood or a porousmaterial, seal it with primer and paint, or coatwith polyurethane. Otherwise, clean it withtrisodium phosphate or another heavy-dutycleaner. Rinse the door with water containing~ cup wh ire vinegar per gallon. Dry it with. arowel, then let it dry for 24 hours.

Wipe the back of the mirror withisopropyl alcohol. Using mirror mastic ormirror mounting tape according to [hemanufacturer's directions, press the mirror inplace on the door. Shim to stabilize it if thedoor is not perfectly flat.

To [rim the mirror with molding, choose amolding that will fit over the mirror, such. aspicture-frame molding. Miter-cut the comers,and install by carefully driving 3-penny nails.Set the nails, fill, and paint or stain.

OR INSTALL WITH MIRROR CLIPS

You can do this without taking the doordown. Have a helper hold rhe mirror in place,parallel with [he edge of the door. Using adrill with a screwdriver bit, hold in place aclip at [he bottom of the door and drive thescrew so it is just snug to the mirror-s-don'tovertighten. Install at least one more clip atthe bottom and six or seven more around theperimeter of the mirror. If the mirror rattles abit, use a screwdriver to tighten the screws.



PERSONAL ROOMS

HANG ADJUSTABLE SHELVES

T his is probably the simplest way ro hangshelves on a wall. If you huy high-qual iry components, the shelves can

be attractive, as well.The shelves, though simple, must be hung

correctly, or they may pull out ofthe wall when heavy objects areplaced on them. If youare using 1x las for theshelves, support them withstandards and brackets every24 inches, or they eventually willsag. Installing a set of shelves like the oneshown will take several hours.

INSTALL STANDARDS

Use a stud tinder to locate the

studs in the walls. Hammer insmall finishing nails to make sureyou've found them.

Hold me first standard at thedesired height (make sure it is rightside up). and drive a screw through the tophole and into the stud. Use the level to makesure the standard is plumb and drive screws inthe other holes.

It is important to install the otherstandards at the same height as the first. Set alevel on top of the first standard or LIse astraight board with a level on top of it if yourlevel is not long enough. Use a pencil to markwhere the tops of the other standards shouldbe placed. Install them as you did the (ust.

.WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: standards: brackets;lumber; screws; paint or stain;po I u rethane.

TOOLS: drill; screwdriver bit; studfinder; level; penci \.

HOOK UP BRACKETSAND SHELVES

Slide the brackets into the standards at thedesired heights-count bracket holes toensure they are at the same height. Thebrackets should snap into place as you pushdown on them.

Cut all the shelves ro the same length orvary the length for a decorative touch. Theyshould not extend more than 8 inches pasteither outside bracket. Paint or apply stainand polyurethane finish. Because theseshelves do not have side pieces, you mayneed to use bookends on both sides.

A simple setof adjustableshelves ispractical and canappearinteresting, if itis well paintedand the objectsattractivelyarranged.

Install the firststandard, makesure it is plumb,and install theothers to thesame height.Clip in thebrackets and setshelves on top,or attach withscrews it thebrackets providemounting holes.



72 CURB APPEAL

Even small projects like fences and arbors oen add up to givea home a dramatic presence. The crisp , white curves of theseoutdoor structures not only are architectural enhancements

but also create a setting for .stunning plantings.



rot-resistant wood, consider staining ir andthen coaring ir wirh a water-repelling sealer.If you like the look of redwood that hasturned gray with age, coat ir only with clearwater-repelling sealer. Once rhe trellis iscovered with plants, it will bedifficult ro paint or treat, so do a

rhorough job.

INSTALL READY-MADELATTICE PANELS

If rhe panels are not already thecorrect length, cur them-rheyprobably will look best if they are ashigh as the top of the trim moldingover the door. The lattice need notextend all rhe way to rhe ground. Put 0

the cut end at the bottom so rhe ropof rhe panel looks finished.

Unless you are attaching a plasticlattice panel to vinyl or aluminumsiding, do not attach the paneldirectly to the house. Warer willcollect and sit wherever the lattice istight ro the house. possibly causingboth the lartice and the siding [0 ror.Instead, use spacers to hold the latticeaway from the house by Y 2inch or sowherever a nail or screw is driven.

Make spacers by cutting pieces ofcopper or plastic pipe with a hacksaw.Or lise four zinc washers for eachspacer. Install by drilling pilar holesand driving screws through the latticeand the spacers and into the house. Ifyou have a masonry wall, drill holeswith. a masonry bit, tap in plasticanchors. and drive in screws.

outside pieces for evenly spaced horizonralstrips. Cut the horizontals. set them in place.and attach by drilling a pilot hole and drivinga [1/4-inch decking screw at each joint.Attach (0 the house with spacers.

USE LATTICE SHEETS

Set the sheet all. several long pieces oflumber, mark with a chalk line, and curwith" circular saw. Cur pieces of lx2to form a frame chat is 2-3 inchesshorter than the lattice in borhdirections. Set rhe lx2s on a flar

surface, lay the lattice on top, andfasten the lattice to the Ix2s with[Y4-inch decking screws. Attach thereinforced panels (0 the wall with

c spacers and screws.

MAKE YOUR OWN LATTICE

Buy [x2s or have a lumberyard makeLxl s, Cur che verticals and lay them all. aflat surface. Use a tape measure to mark [he

CURB APPEAL

Drill pilot holes

through the

lattice and

attach to the

house withscrews. using

spacers to hold

the lat tice away

from the sidingby about ~ inch.

Spacer cutf rom plastic oraluminum pipe



6 CURB ApPEAL

TRIM ANENTRY DOOR

Ilassic moldings are appropriate for the

style of your home, use them to adddistinction to your enrry door. You can

now purchase moldings made of high-density

urethane. They are available already formedin wide, stately configurations. Urethanemoldings will not warp, decay. splinter,mildew, or attract insects. They also are less

expensive and easier to install than similarwood molding.

Purchase an entrance system containingpilasters (the vertical pieces) and a decorative

lintel (the honzonral cap). For the pilasters,you may need to purchase the upper comerblocks and/or the lower blocks separately. Ifyou buy the pilasters as completely assembled

units, be sure that they arethe correct length or thatyou can cut the lowerblocks ro make them fit.If the lintel is one piece,make sure it, roo, is thecorrect length. If you needto cut it, the tricky partmay be making very shortpieces on either end of

the lintel so it has afinished look. Take themeasurements of yourdoor to a lumberyard orhome center and ask foreverything you need.

You can also usestandard wood moldings,stacking various styles ontop of at next to oneanother to producecomplex, decorativepatterns (se e page s 10-11).

The door casing

is a classic post-and-lintel design,with decorativecorner blocks, araised design onthe'Verticalpieces, anddentiled detailon the horizontalpiece.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIAL.S: urethane molding or woodmoldings; shims; galvanized finishing nailsor masonry nails or screws; exterior .spackle; waterproof construction adhesive;latex/sil icone caulk; primer; latex or alkydexterior paint; mineral spirits, if needed.

TOOLS: miter box with backsaw orpower miter box; penci]; chalk line;hammer; nail set; caulk gun; putty knife;screwdriver; rags; paintbrushes.

INSTALL THEPILASTERS

In most cases, the moldingwill look best if it covershalf the thickness of thedoor jamb. (The jamb ismade of three piecesfacing at right angles tothe wall: the hinges areattached to it.) Makepencil marks on the jamb

to indicate the halfway point and Lise thern

when you measure. Cut the pilasters tolength, raking into account the bottom andtop blocks, if they are separate.If you have beveled horizontal siding

(clapboard), use shims to make a smoothsurface for nailing the pilasters. (It is possiblesimply to nail the pilasters to the siding, butyou will have a series of long V-shaped gapson the outside edges. which will be verydifficult to tlll with caulk.) Use a chalk lineto make vertical lines indicating where theoutside of the pilasters will be. Nail shimsagainst the lines. Or install the pilasters firstand then insert right-fitting pieces of trim.



Install shims Ito fill in the

gaps on r- - -n- - -the sideJ . o r- -

Attach thepilasterwith nai ls

CURB APPEAL

Or install theshims afterthe lintelsare in place

J

Install the

pilasters, then

the lintel. Makesure all the

pieces sit flat

against thehouse wall.Measure from

outside to outside

Fit the pieces to make sure they are cutcorrectly. Using a caulk gun, run a thin beadof construction adhesive on the back of themolding, position it, and drive galvanizedfinishing nails every foot or so on either side;drive nails into the jamb. as well as the siding.

With wood siding, there is no need ro findthe studs. If you are connecting trim to amasonry surface, use masonry nails or screwsevery 2 feet or so on [he outside and regularnails to attach to the jamb. Use plenty ofconstruction adhesive.

INSTALL THE LINTEL

Measure from outside edge to outside edge ofthe installed vertical molding. It will probablylook best to have the lintel overhang the

~ vertical molding by about 1 inch on eachside. Cur any lintel pieces. as necessary.

With beveled horizontal siding. you mayneed to install a long shim at the rap, to fillin a gap that you can caulk later. Otherwise,water will seep in, possibly damaging thesiding. Buy a piece of beveled siding for this

Caulk theperimeterto keep waterfrom seeping in

purpose or rrull a piece (0 fir. Depending onthe situation, install the shim before or afteryou put up the lintel.

Make sure [he lintel sirs flat against thesurface of the house so its face is plumb; if itis at an angle, the job won't look right. Applyconstruction adhesive. center the lintel. andattach with nails.

FILL NAIL HOLES. CAULK.AND PAINT

Use a hammer and nail set to poke the nail

heads Y +inch or so into the molding. Fill theholes with exterior spackle, using a puttyknife or your finger. Allow the spackle to dryand sand smooth.

Apply an even bead of caulk all around theoutside edges of (he molding, This bead willbe very visible, so practice your caulkingtechnique before starting. Apply a smooth,even bead and leave it as is, or use a damp ragto smooth it after applying. Prime, if necessary.and pa in t wi th one or two coa ts of latex' oralkyd exterior house paint.



BUILD A SPLIT-RAIL GATEWAY

A simple, low railing like this will notkeep out dogs and thieves, but it willclearly define your property. And

it may keep the kids from cutting acrossthe lawn on their bikes. Most importantly,its rustic good looks will welcome peopleto your house. Building the project will takehalf a day to a day.

BUY THE PARTS

A fencing-supplv source or home center willhave the parts you need. Make sure the railswill fit into the mortises. Select posts that arestructurallv sound. Sort through. the lumberyourself [0 find sturdy pieces that do nor havemajor cracks and that are f8irly consistent in

width and thickness.This fence may endureabuse, so make sure theposts are long enough toprovide srabilitv when

sunk in the ground.Lengths of 6 feet will probably

be long enough. For extrastrength, buy concrete; oneBO-pound bag of ready-mix

per posthole is plenty.

A low fence adds

rustic beauty

and gives your

homes warm,

friendly look.

. ~

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: 8 split rails wid, notched

ends; 4 split-rail posts with mortises:2 lengths of rebar; pea gravel; concrete;paint or sealer/preservative, if needed.

TOOLS: posthole digger; wheelbarrow orbucker; hammer; level; string; tapemeasure; drill; long bit; stakes; scraplumber; small sledgehammer.

, LAy OUT AND DIG THE HOLES

Pound a couple of stakes in the ground andtighten a string between them to mark thelocation of the fence. Measure from the frontwall (0 make the fence parallel to the house.

Mark for the inside two posts by digging

the postholes. Use a fence rail as a guide tomark for the outside two postholes.

Dig the holes, using a clamshell-type ortwist-type posthole digger. If the digging istough, take your time; many do-it-vourselfershave suffered pain by doing this work. Hiringsomeone may be 8 good idea. If you run intosmall roots, chop [hem with [he posr.holedigger. For larger roots, you may need to useall. axe or 8 S8W. If the root is a large one froma tree, consider moving [he fence in order toavoid damaging the tree .

Dig the holes to a consistent depth if thelawn is level. Put a piece of tape or a notch



on the posthole digger co indicate the correctdepth. If the lawn is not level, you can havethe fence follow the slope or use a level onrep of a straight board to ensure that the posttops are level with one another.

Dig the holes a couple of inches deeperthan they need to be. then shovel in a littlegravel, so water can drain away (rom thebottoms of the posts.

ASSEMBLE THE FENCE

Set (he posts nearest the sidewalk into theirholes and temporarily brace them in positionby shoving scrap lumber in rhe hole. Checkto see that the posts are fairly plumb.

Slip the rails into the mortises, Set theoutside posrs in the holes and slip the railsinto these mortises. Temporarily brace theoutside posts and check for plumb. Slip in theother rai Is and lay rbern on rap of each other

on the ground at the fence ends. You mayneed to cut the lower end rail to make itcome out the same length as the upper one.

ANCHOR THE FENCE

There are various ways to anchor fence posts.Check with a fence dealer or a neighbor forthe one that works best in your area.

• SET POST IN CONCRETE: Check oftenduring this process to be sure the posts stayplumb. In a wheelbarrow or other largecontainer. mix dry concrete mix with enoughwater so it is barely pourable. Pour into thehole and poke the concrete with a piece ofreinforcing bar or thin stick to make surethere are no air bubbles. Mound the concreteslighrlv above grade, so water will drain away.

• SET POST IN TAMPED SOIL: Shovel ina foot or so of soil, tamp it firmly, and repeatuntil the hole is filled. Mound the soil a bit sowater runs away from the post.

• SET POST IN PEA GRAVEL: Pour ingravel, ramping as you go. Don't mound it up;

water will run down through the gravel.

Drill a hole through both end rails-about6 inches from the grounded end. Use a drillwith a long bit that is the same thickness as

~ the rebar. (Or buy a bit extension and attachit to a standard spade bic.) Pound the rebarinto the ground until the rop is flush with thetop of the rail. Dab the exposed end of therail with brown paint or just let it rust.

If you want the fence (0 tum gray withtime, brush on a clear sealer/preservative.To keep a brown color, use tinted sealer ora sealer that blocks ultraviolet light.

CURB ApPEAL

Assemble thefence, checkingthat the postsare plumb, thenslip in the rails.

Anchor the endposts. by drillinga hole anddriving rebardeep into theground.



80 CURB APPEAL

IN STALL LANDSCAPE LIGHTS

Law-voltage landscape lights give ahouse instant beauty. They highlightarchitectural deta i Is, landscape plantings,

and special focal points, such as a group ofattractive trees. Lights turn decks, patios,terraces, and yards into nighttime livingspaces. They also make a yard and house safeand secure by lighting places like steps and

approaches to the house.Safe and worry free,these do-it-yourself12-volt l ightingsystems are energyefficient, inexpensiveto operate, and r.heycan be installedwithout conduit,junction boxes, or

tools. The fixturesare available insingle units andin kits. Install inga system will takea few hours.

SAFETYLIGHTING

Well, spot, oraccent lights canlight up housenumbers. Bracketlights illuminatefront steps anddoors. Flood,tier, mushroom,

~ bollard, andpost lightsilluminatesteps, paths,and swimming

pools. Post lightshelp define long driveways and walkways.Floodlight on approaches to a housediscourages thieves. Specia I underwater

fixtures can light swimming pools.

Cheery, yetsubtle, low-voltage fightsmake a houseelegant and

inviting. Theyalso make pathssafer at night.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: low-voltage kit with lights,transformer, stakes, and cable; mortonsensor or photovolraic cell, if needed.

TOOLS: tape measure; shovel; pliers;screwdriver.

LIGHTING EFFECTS

• DOWNLIGHTING:A floodlight mountedhigh in trees or on thehouse casts light fromabove over a broad area.Mounted closer to theground, ir casts light onflower beds, shrubs,walkways, or steps.• DECK LIGHTING:Compact surface lightsmount vertically orhorizontally toilluminate deck railings,steps, and benches.Some come with woocl

tr im that can be treatedto march the deck;some are especiallydesigned for use ondecks.• UPLIGHTING: Well,spot, and accent lightshidden at the base oftrees or other objectsthrow light upward,highlighting their shapeor texture.• MOONLIGHTING:Floods mounted high in[tees ftlrer light downrhrough (he branches,casting attractiveshadows.

• AccENTLIGHnNG: Mushroomfloods spread light onfocal points, such asflower beds. creatingsparkling islands oflight.• BACKLIGHTING:Well, spot, and accent

lights hidden behindbushes bounce light offwalls or other surfaces,highlighting theirtexture or architecturaldetails.• DIFFUSED ORSPREAD LIGHTING:Mushroom, tier, orbollard lights producesoft, circular patternson low-level gardenbeds and paths.

, . ~; ... ,---\_ ,--

.r--r:": I -

__ J.-



PLANNING GUIDELINES

Be creative, but don't overlighr. You wane abalance of light and shadow to createintriguing effects in the yard.To test different techniques. have family

and friends aim flashlights from differentdirections and at various objects as you studythem from a distance. As you plan, rememberyou want to COLKealthe light source whereverpossible. One exception is decorative spreador accent lights that are meant [Q be seen.

How LOW-VOLTAGELIGHTS WORK

At the heart of a low-voltage system is atransformer that reduces standard 120-volthousehold current to 12 volts. It plugs into astandard electrical outler. Transformers comein a range of sizes. To choose theright size, add up the watts ofall the lamps you plan to use;this is the system's totalnominal wattage (TNW).Based on the manufacturer'sspecifications. choose atransformer with a TNWclose to your system TNW.You may need more than onetransformer if the systemTNW exceeds a certain level,usually about 300 watts.

Buy a transformer with an

automatic switch: This can bea timer that automaticallyturns the lights on and off atpreset times, a photocell thatturns the lights on at dusk and offat dawn, or a combination of thetwo. Other options includemarion sensors that. rum lights onwhen someone approaches anddimmers that control lightintensity.

The low-voltage cable is weather-resistant, self-sealing, and insulated.Determine the size cable you need bythe system TNW or by the length ofits run. Use lo-gauge cable forinstallations that don't exceed 150TNW or a 100-foo[ run; l-l-gauge cablefor those up to 200 TNW or 150 feet; and\.12-gauge cable for those up to 250 TNW Hook the wiring toor 200 feet. the light fixtures

TIle fixtures connect to the cable with adevice that pierces the cable and locks inplace to wire the light. They install one afteranother in a series. Use the lamps orlightbulbs recommended by the manufacturer.

CURB ApPEAL

INSTALLING THE SYSTEM

Mount the transformer next [0 an indoor oroutdoor electrical outlet, following themanufacturer's directions. Use the terminalscrews to attach the cable to the bottom ofthe transformer. Plug in the transformer andstretch (he cable (0 its full length.

Lay the cable on the ground under bushesor mulch. or lay it along the foundation.To bury it, cut a slit in the sod at a 45.degreeangie, peel back the sad, drop in the cable,and push the sod back in place.

Working from the transformer out to (heend of the cable, attach the fixrures to thecable, following the manufacturer's directions.Set or bury the lixcures in the ground ormount them on deck surfaces with screws.

Most of thework to install 8

low-voltagesystem involvesrunning and

hiding cable.

Run cable where it ishidden, or make a slit inthe ground and slip it in

Locate a convenientelectrical receptacle,either outside or inside

Install the lights by poking

them in the ground



82 CURB APPEAL

ERECT AN EASY ARBOR

Asmall arbor set over a from sidewalkor walkway provides a charminglyold-fashioned gateway [0 a house.

CHOOSING SIZEAND

MATERIALS

A simple arborbecomes a lushentryway whencovered withclimbing plants.

An arbor 5 feet wide, 2 feet deep, and 8 feethigh will be ample bur not overbearing over <I

3-foot-wide sidewalk or path. Use materialsthat are ror resistant. Heartwood of redwood

or cedar works well. Pressure-treated lumberis less expensive and more ror resistant, butmany homeowners object [0 its color. Brown-treated wood (if available in your area) mightbe a good choice; or plan on painting [hestructure.

Use 4x4s for the posts. lx3s for rhe latticepieces, and 2x12s or 2xlOs for the archedrafters. For a more delicate look, have alumberyard mill the 4x4s into 3xJs, and usclx2s for rhe lattice pieces. Though mostlydecorative, the posts should be firmlyanchored. Buy posts long enough so you canset them at least 24 inches in the ground.

LAy OUT, DIG HOLES,AND SET POSTS

Use a framing square and some stringwith stakes to establish the outsidecomers of the arbor. Make sure it will

be not only parallel [0 the sidewalkbut square, as well.

Dig the holes with. a clamshell ortwist-type posthole digger. Mark the

digger with a piece of tape or notch toindicate (he correct deprh. Dig each holea couple of inches deeper than needed,then shovel in a bit of gravel so water willdrain away from the posr borrorns,

Set the posts in the ground and bracethem so they will stay plumb as you work.CUt rhern to height later. Use pieces oflx3 or Ix2 as temporary angle braces andstakes. Work with a helper, one personattaching the braces while the OIDerchecks that the posr remains plumb.

WHAT YOU'LLNEED

MATERIALS: 4x4 posts;2xL 0 or 2x 12 rafters;lx2 or Ix3 lattice pieces;

gravel; concrete, ifneeded; 6d galvanizednails or lYS-incb. deckingscrews: 3-inch deckingscrews; primer; paint .

TOOLS: postholedigger; srep ladder;hammer; drill; level;circular saw; saber saw;tape measure; pencil;string; stepladder;framing square.



Position the braces so they will not get in theway as you attach the lattice pieces.

You could pour the concrete or tamp soilor gravel in the holes at this point. However,you would need to wait a couple of days forthe concrete to cure before proceeding, or theposts might become loose as you work.It is best to anchor the posts after rhestructure is built.

BUILD THE ARBOR

Using a stepladder and a level seton a straight board, mark the topsof the posts for cutting ro the sameheight. Use a square to drawa line around each postand cut with a circular saw.

Cur the 2x12 or 2xlO rafters (0

length so they overhang the posts2 inches On either side. Use a string

and a pencil to mark for a smoothcurve at the top of one and cut thecurve with a saber saw. Use (he firstpiece as a template for marking thesecond. Have a helper hold eachrafter in place while you drill andfasten them to the posts withSIll-inch carriage bolts.

Cut all the side pieces of lattice to

the same length, so they overhangthe posts 1 inch or so on either side.To attach the lattice, begin with apiece thar is 2-3 inches above theground. Hold it in place, check it forlevel, and attach it (0 the posrs with6d galvanized nails or 1s/8-inchdecking screws.

To maintain consistent spacing,use a spacer piece of lx2 or lx3. Setthe spacer on top of the installedlattice piece and the next latticepiece on top of the spacer, and drivescrews or nails, Continue workingthis way until you get to the top.

Cur the overhead lattice pieces sothey overhang the rafters by 1 inch.Install the first piece near the edge of the

rafters and use the spacer to install rheothers.

Anchor [he posts by pouring concrete,adding tamped soil, or tamping in gravel.(See p a g e79 fa r c omp le te i ns tr uc ti on s.)

\ Finish the arbor by priming and paintingit with two coats of high-quality exteriorpaint. (It will be difficult to repaint after theplants grow.) Or apply a water-repellent finish.

~ I

I1

j ~I ~J ( I !

I. I I I

1 I.! I

10 lo J I1

1 I'I

I III

I· II.

lI

4><4posts

4x4 posts sunk inconcrete, tamped soil,or tamped gravel

o r .

CURB APPEAL

...-rII

I .1I I_

II •

Well-anchoredposts supportrafters andhorizonta//atticepieces in thissimple yetelegant design.



84 CURB APPEAL

ADD A STONE-BoRDERED FLOWER BEDThe work is simple, but it can be time-

consuming and hard on your back. Plan ontaking a weekend or two to finish the project.

raised flower bed not only serves to

show off your flowers by purring themon a pedestal. In addition, it makes

gardening easier because vou don't have robend down as far. A variety of natural stoneand formed concrete blocks are available tochoose from.

MAKE A TRENCHAND FILL WITH GRAVEL

A raised bed is simple to build and will show your gardening skillsto best advantage.

Tamper~

Bab¥

sledge

~Dig a trench, fi ll it with tamped gravel and sand, and stack the stonesor blocks. Use 8 brlckset chisel and hammer to cut stones.

Mark your bed by laying agarden hose around theperimeter. Pour (lour orsand on rap of the hose,and remove the hose.You'll have a clear line.Dig a trench 2 incheswider than the stones orconcrete blocks andJ inches deep. Fill with2 inches of gravel and

tamp firm with a handtamper. Add sand ro comeup almost to grade andsmooth out to form a flatsurface for [he stones orblocks.

STACK THE STONES

Set the first row of stonesor blocks, butted againsteach other. Set the secondand subsequent srones orblocks on top, staggering

the joints for strength. To cuta stone or block, make a Y4-inch-deep groove in both sides using abnckser and a hammer. Lop-off thewaste side with the hammer.

Fill the bed with light topsoilthat has plenty of peat moss orother organic material so it willdrain easily. During heavy rains,water will seep out through thejoints between the stones or blocks.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: natural stones orconcrete blocks; pea gravel;flollr or sand; topsoil.

TOOLS: shovel; garden hose;hand tamper: hammer or babysledge; brickset chisel.



CURB ApPEAL

BUILD A TIMBER FLOWER BED

This is a quick way to make a raised bed,and it requires no heavy lifting. Homecenters and lumberyards have a varierv

of large-dimensioned lumber to choose from.

Select materials that have proved to be rorresistant in your area.

FILL A TRENCH WITH GRAVEL

Mark the perimeter of the bed bystretching strings between stakes drivenin the ground. If possible. size the bedro minimize cutting of timbers.

Dig a trench 2 inches wider than [hetimbers and 3 inches deep. Fill withgravel and tamp firm ro form a smoochsurface almost as high as grade.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: railroad ties; 4x4s or otherlarge-dimensioned lumber; pea gravel;2-foot lengths of rebar: I2-inch spikes;topsoil.

TOOLS: circular S3\V; hand saw; drill;long bit; hand tamper; string; pencil;hammer or baby sledgehammer; framingsquare.

CUT AND LAy THE TIMBERS

Sec [he first row of timbers in place. ensuringthat the comers look neat. To cut the limbers,mark a line around rhe post using a square.CUt first with a circular saw on all four sides.Finish cutting the inside with a hand saw.

ANCHOR WITHREBAR AND SPIKES

Every 2 feet or so, drill holes rhrough thetimbers, using a long drill biro Drive rhepieces of reinforcing bar through [he holesand into the ground, to anchor the rimbers.

Stack the second course of timbers on topof (he first, staggering the overlap at thecomers and leaving at least 2 feet betweenjoints in the middle. Attach these to the firstcourse by pounding in I2-inch spikes every 2feet or so. Or set the third coursein place, drill holes, and drive lengths ofreinforcing bar through all three pieces.

A timber bed looks great and is easy to build.

Be sure to anchor it firmly to the ground, or the timbers

will move out of position after a few years.

Fill the bed with topsoi l thatcontains plenty of organic material-during a heavy rain, water w ill seepthrough the gaps in the timbers



86 CURB JlpPEAL

BUILD A PATIO FLOWERBox

Imay be elementary [0 budd, but this

simple wood flower box makes a pleasantaddition to a patio, deck, or walkway. It is

also portable so it can be moved as needed.Join two boxes--one 10 inches shorter thanthe other-at right angles, to make a box

mat fits around comers.

Flower boxes donot need to beornate; theplants supply allthe decorationyou need.

\

CUT THE PIECES

Cut l x lO lumber into three pieces of thesame length (30 inches is a good size) for thesides and the bottom of the box. Cut two endpieces, each 11 inches long.

The box has square-cut edges that overlapone another. The sides and ends enclose thebottom, and the end pieces overlap the sides.

BUILD THE BOX

Apply glue along one edge of the bottomboard. Attach anotherlong board at rightangles. with all outsideedges flush. Tum (heside piece face up. Nailor screw the two piecestogether along the

edge, driving a fastener 1 inch in from eachend and at [he center. Repeat the procedureon the ocher side. Attach the end pieces thesame way, except drive the end nails ~ inch in

from the ends.Cut pieces of lx2 wood to lit around thebottom of the box, and fasten with glue andnails or screws. Drill pilot holes to avoidsplitting the wood. Install the top trim (lx2)the same way, aligning the inside edges of thetrim with the inside edges of the box.

Drill six [0 eight -%~inch holes in thebottom of the box (or drainage.

Lightly sand the box to prevent splinters.Paint inside and out with two coats ofexterior latex paint, letting it dry thoroughlybetween coats. Or apply a sealer or painrto protect against rot.

FLU the box with 1 or 2 inches of gravelthen with light topsoil.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: redwood, cedar, orpressure-treated lx lOsand lx2s (rip~cutlx2s from 1x4s, if needed); polvurethane;glue; 6d galvanized nails or 1Y:i-inchdecking screws; exterior latex paint orsealer/preservative; gravel; topsoil.

TOOLS: tape measure; drill; hammer;square; circular saw; sanding block;nO-grit sandpaper; paintbrush.

3~''

~~~~~lx2 toptrim

~JBottom -J f [ : : :===--- - :__ . .__--___, ' : . . .trim _3D"



H ANG A FLOW ER BASKET

S ometimes a simpleaddition can make a bigdifference. With a

hanging bracket, you canposicion flowersexactly where theywi II be seen (0

best advantage.And you canchange plants atwill, showcasingbaskets of flowers as theycome into (ull bloom, Makingand hanging a bracket will takea few hours.

CURB APPEAL

Hangable flower basketsare available in a widevariety o( styles andmaterials. Wirebaskets fi lied withmoss are thesimplest approach. I f youselect a wood basket, findone made of rhe same wood asyour bracket. Redwood and cedar are goodchoices. Baskets rarely are finished weU sogive yours a coat or two of stain or a sealerthat blocks ultraviolet light. to keep the woodfrom turning gray.

You can buy a decorative metal hangingbracket or build one yourself. Choose 2x4redwood or cedar that is dark in color and hasfew, if any, knots.

BUILD THE BRACKET

Cur rhe wall piece and the arm. TIle armshould be at least 6 inches longer [han [heradius of the basket, so the basket will hang

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATER_IA_LS: hanging flower bucket orwire flower basket, rope or wire; screw-inhook; 2x4 redwood or cedar; -l-inch lagscrews with washers; lag shields; .s-inchdecking screws; paint or stain and sealer,

TOOLS: circular saw; drill: socket andratchet; masonry bit, if needed; tapemeasure; square; level; paintbrush.

away from the wall. The wall piece can be thesame length or slightly shorter.

Make decorative "dog-ear" cuts at one endof both pieces. Use a square [0 mark for45-degree cuts that are abour 1 inch long.

Set the two pieces on edge on a worksurface, with rheir ends butted and square [0

each other. Attach. the arm to the wall pieceby drilling pilot holes and driving 3-inchdecking screws. Roughly measure fo r theangle brace. Cur the brace ar 45 degrees (It

each end and attach it [0 the arm and thewall piece wirh 3-inch screws. Paint or applyfinish to the bracket. Install a screw-in hook

about 2 inches (rom the end of the ann.

HANG THE BRACKET

Hold rhe bracket in position on the wall,checking for level. Drill pilot holes throughthe bracket and into the wall. Install lagscrews with washers by tapping them thenscrewing them in with a ratchet and socket.

I f the wall is masonry, drill only enough romake marks showing the locations. Take thebracket down, drill holes with a masonry bit,and insert lag shields. Drive lag screws intothe shields.

Use brackets inkeeping with thestyle of yourhouse wheninstallinghanging plants.



88 CURB ApPEAL

CREATE A PATHWAY W ITH STEPPING STONES

A walkway thatis part lawn and

part stone is agraceful way tohandle· trafficthrough a yard.

Stepping stones make a handsomealternative to the traditional gardenpath. They're also much easier [0 install

because they don't require a gravel base. Laythem in an informal or formal arrangement,as desired, using any number of flat pavingmaterials.

Use a path like this for places that getoccasional traffic. It works for mulched areasas well as gardens. The path is awkward whenrolling a stroller or wheelbarrow over it, andduring rainy weather, it may not be [he safestplace ro walk.

v\ \

v

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: flagstones, concretepavers, poured stepping-stones, Logslices,or another material that will not crack orrot easily; sand.

ToOLS: shovel; gardening trowel, hand.tamper or piece of 4x4 or 2x4; gardenhose; cardboard; stakes; hammer.

CHOOSE STEPPING"STONEMATERIALS

There is a wide array of stepping-sconematerials. Circles of concrete with exposedaggregate are pleasant. Another inexpensiveoption is concrete pavers, available in squareor octagonal shapes and a variety of colors.

Flagstones create a more natural look;choose stones that tend to be round ratherthan square and roughly the same size. Large,flat river rocks look great but will be difficultto install. Keep in mind (hat you need flatsurfaces so a lawn mower can go over thestones without damaging the blade.

Log slices are surprisingly durable althoughthey will not last. as long as stone orconcrete. Don't lise them i f the lawn

stays soggy for long periods.

ARRANGE THE STONESON THE YARD

Pian the layout, using gardenhose and piecesof cardboard or anothermovable material toexperiment with the generaloutline of the path and theplacement of individualstones. \'\Ihen rhelayout is dec ided, drivesmall stakes into theturf to mark thelocation of each stone.Count the stones andbuy a few more thanyou need.Lay the stones in

place on top of the lawnin their exact positions.Have members of the family

test them. You may need tocompromise between the strides of

children and the strides of adults.

CUT THE SOD

Work one stone at a time. With the stone setin place, use a shovel to trace its outline byslicing through the sad around it. Withpractice. you will make clean, accurate cutswi thout much effort.

Dig up and remove (he turf and any otherorganic material in each spot, even if thatmeans digging deeply. For each stone, make ahole as deep as the thickness of the stone plus1 inch. Remove any rocks or other debrisfrom the hole.



CURB APPEAL

TAMP AND FILL

Use a hand tamper or a piece of 4x4 or 2x4ro ramp the soil firmly. It is irnporranr thatrhe soil be firmly compacted, at the stoneswill shift position over rime.

Ar this point, you could just I<lYhe sconeson ramped soil. But adding some sand canmake the work easier because the sand willconform to the contours of the stonebortoms more easily than soil will.

Spread 1 inch or so of sand in eachbottom and smooth it out. Form a level baseor shape the sand co march (he bottom of anirregular stone.

Flagstone, milledstone, castconcrete, andaggregate areamong the most

popularmaterials forstepping stones.

LAy THE STONES

lay the stone on top of thesand and tamp it down until itis firm and sits level, with itsrap ar about the soil surface soyou can run a lawn mowerover if.

Keep adjusting until you get (hestone just right. It may help tomake a gauge by marking a pieceof lumber to the correct depth,that way, vou can limit rhenumber of rimes you have to pickup the stones to adjust (hem.

The stones shou ld not rock orwobble when. you step on them.Especially with flagstones, youmay need to adjust each stoneslightly several rimes, liftingand filling or removing sandfrom one spar or another.

Set the stones inposition, cutneatly aroundthem to removethe sad, tampthe soil, pour insome sand, andlay the stones.



0 CURB ApPEAL

PUT UP A LATTICE PRIVACY SCREEN

Asmall screen like this is handy forhiding garbage cans or a central air-conditioning unit. It also can help

shelter a patio or deck from view.TIlLsdesign uses a 2x8 lattice sheetthat you will cut to Length. If you

A modest latticescreen nicely hidesan unsightlyelement (rom view.

WHAT YOU~LL NEED

MATERI4lLS: 4x4 posts; 2x8-foot latricesheet; Ixl nailers; 2x6 rafters; lx2braces; wood newels or post caps; 3-inchdecking screws; 4d galvanized nails; peagravel; concrete; paint or preservative.

TOOLS: posthole digger; drill; circularsaw; hammer; framing square; tapemeasure; level; pliers; paintbrushes.

want a larger screen, add another section withanother post and a 2-foot-wide lattice sheer.Or space the POStsfarther apart and makelattice out of lx2s.

Choose rot-resistant lumber, eitherpressure-treated or the heartwood of cedar orredwood. It is a good idea to coat the bottomsof the posts, where they will sit in the ground,with a sealer/preservative before you start.Use the thicker type of lattice sheet; it shouldbe at least Y 4inch thick total (each piece ofwood should be at least Y sinch thick). Youwill need a day to build the structure here.

LAY OUT AND DIGTHE POSTHOLES

Lay a straight board on rhe ground [0 indicate

the location of [he screen. Ir should probablybe parallel to a house wall, a sidewalk, oranother obvious reference point.

Mark for postholes whose centers arc27 inches apart. This will allow you to set4x4 poses in the holes with a 2-foot panelspanning the posts.

Dig the holes at least 2 feet deep. Tamp thebottoms firm with a 4x4 and pour a coupleinches of gravel into each. Tamp the graveland sec the posts in (he holes.

Temporarily brace one of the posts so chatit is plumb. Use scraps of lumber driven intothe hole or drive stakes into [he ground and

attach Lx2s (0 the posts and the stakes.

ATTACH NAILERSAND LATTICE

Decide how high you want thelattice (0 extend. TI1e lattice

should be held off theground 2-3 inches;take that intoaccount when you

measure. Use a circular saw tocut the 2x8 lattice sheer to the desired

length. Cut four lx ls to the same length.On the post that is temporarily braced.

attach a l x l nailer so that the lattice will becentered against the post (see th e top view onpage 9 j ). It should be at the same height youprefer the lattice (0 be. Use 3-inch deckingscrews driven every foot or so.

Have a helper hold the lattice against thenailer so one edge butts against the bracedpost. Attach the Lattice to the nailer bydrilling pilot holes and driving 4d nails intoabout every third lattice piece. As you work,rest the lartice on a scrap of lumber on [heground to keep ir stable.



Adjust the other post so it aligns with thelattice. Temporarily brace it. Install a nailerwith 3-inch screws and attach the lattice with4d nails just as you did on the (irst side.On both posts, complete the lattice

sandwich by snugging another lx l naileragainst the lattice. Drive screws through thel x l and into both the post and the othernailer to clamp the lattice in place.

CUT POST ToPSAND ADD RAFTERS

Use a level CO mark the posts for cutting tothe same height. On each post, use a squareto mark all (our sides. Cut with acircular saw.

Cur two 2x6 rafters to39 inches so they run past[he posts 4 inches on eitherside. Have a helper hold each

in place, with the top edge flushwith the cops of the posts, while YOLI

drive two 3-inch decking screwsinto each joint. Be sure the raftersoverhang the posts the samedistance on each side.

4x4 posrTop view

Newel

~•11- r-

Q

2x.6 rafters

••

ADD NEWELS

A home center or lumberyardshould stock a selection of fancifulnewels or decorative post caps tochoose from. Get two made of

pressure-treated lumber, redwood,or cedar; or use an interior neweland give it several coats of high-quality paint.

The newels may come with theirown screws attached; drill pilot holesand twist rhem into the the middleof the post raps. Otherwise. purchasedouble-pointed screws. Drill pilarholes in the post top and the newelborrom. Twist the screw into thenewel using pliers, then screw ic intothe post cop.

ANCHOR THE POSTS,PAINT OR FINISH

Verify that the posts are still plumband rebrace them, if necessary.Secure the posts in the ground bypouring concrete, firmly tamping insailor tamping in gravel. (S ee p ag e79 f cr r complet e ins truc ti ons. )

Give the whole structure twosolid coats of exterior paine orapply two coats of sealer-preservative containing stain or

ultraviolet light blockers.

Lattice

lxl nailer .' I'

CURB APPEAL

For privacy,

protection from

a strong wind, orornamentation,

a lattice screenis a quick andeasy project. Asseen in crosssection (above),

the lattice is

sandwichedbetween twonailers, which

are fastened tothe posts.

4x4 posts



92 CURB ApPEAL

MAKE SHUTTERS AND W INDOW BOXES

Iou have plain exterior walls, shutters

with a matching or complementarywindow box will give your home a

handcrafted look.

You probably won't put a window box inevery window. But by making shutters for allthe windows on the most public side

Cut the bottom from pressure-treatedplywood, and drill a series of Ys-inch holes,about 6 inches apart, for drainage. Cut thelx8 end and side pieces so they fie outside [he

bottom and cover its edges. Attach the endsand sides to each other and (0 the bottom,using polyurethane glue and 1%-inch screws

or 6d galvanized nails. Drill pilotholes (0 avoid cracking the wood.

At a copy center, enlarge one ofthe patterns on page 93 until it isthe size you want for your box. Cuta lx8 face piece (0 cover the frontof the box. Trace the design on itand cut it out using a drill and asaber saw. Attach the face piecewith glue and screws or nails.

Install the 1x2 top trim pieces

with their outside edges flush withthe outside edges of the box. Miter-cur the corners, and attach bydrilling pilot holes and driving 6dgalvanized nails or 1 'Ys-inch screws.

Give the box two coats of exteriorpaint. Fill with 1-2 inches of gravel,followed by light topsoil with plentyof peat moss or other organic matter.

To support [he box, purchasedecorat ive brackets (or make abracket like th e one shownon page 87); follow the

instructions for installing thebracket.

A combinationof window boxand shuttersbrings color andquaint design to

an otherwiseplain window.

\

of your house and by adding a window boxor two, you can quickly give your house aunif ied look.

Use very rot-resistant wood for both [heshutters and the window box. Choose high-quality lumber that has been well dried, oryour projects may warp during hot weather.

A project like this wil l rake about a day.

MAKE A WINDOW Box

Small window boxes-no more than 5 inchesdeep and wide-can simply be screwed intothe side of a house. A larger box must besupported from underneath, or it will fallapart and could damage the siding.

The box probably will look most attractiveif it is as wide as the window, including themolding. Plan to set it just below (he bottommolding of the window, unless you expect to

have tall foliage--in that case, set it lower.

CHOOSE OR MAKESHUTTERS

You may find shutters that suit your needs.Vinyl shutters need little maintenance bur areavailable in a limited choice of colors.

To make your own shutters like the onesshown, cut tWO 1x4s and two l x Zs (0 thewidth of the shutter, and two lx4s to the

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS: ready-made shutters or-Yo-inch pressure-treated plywood; lx4sand lx2s; /.I-i.nch pressure-nearedplywood; Ix8s; lx3s; Y4~lnchdeckingscrews; 1Yo-inch decking screws or 6dgalvanized nails; polyurethane glue; latexexterior paint; gravel; topsoil; peat moss.

TOOLS: drill; tape measure; framingsquare; circular saw; saber saw; hammer;paintbrush.



height of rhe shutter, minus 7 inches. Makerhe top and bottom pieces by laminating alx4 and lx2 together for each, as shown.Use polvurerhane glue, and drive 1V4,inchscrews every 6 inches or so. Drill pilot holesro avoid splitting rhe wood .•

Lay the pieces upside down on awork surface, with the lx2son top. Position rhe sidepieces w make thecomplete frame.Measure for (heside lx2s, cur,and attach them asshown, using polyurethaneglue and 11/4 ,inch screws.As you work, check tobe sure the sidesremain parallel andthe comers square.

Cur (he plywood

ro fit in back. Use theremplate (rom rhewindow box to markfor cutting a decorativederail. Behind (he cuedetail, glue a piece ofV~'inch plywood to cover the hole.Cut a horizontal middle piece and glue it inplace, driving screws from the back side of(he plywood.

CURB APPEAl.

Give the shutters at least two coats ofexterior latex paint. Attach them usingspacers ro keep them (rom touching the siding(se e p age75 f or i ns truc ti ons ) .

( """\/

I\

11 \

j Iv

I V V

lx4s

lx2

Face piece

1 xJ. trim,mitered

Y.-inchplywood

Build the box with1x8 sides andends, a perforatedplywood bottom,and 7x2 top trim.

For tife shutters,

laminate 1x4s

with 1x2s toform a frame toFI1the plywood.Use a smallpiece 01 '4-inchplywood to

cover thedecorative

cutout.



94 CURB ApPEAL

TILE OVER A CONCRETE SLAB

No one willguess that anunattractiveconcrete slab l iesbeneath thisstriking tit«surface.

A dull concrete slab can be made inro anenticing patio surface by purring rileon top of it. If installed correctly, a

tile surface will last for decades and willrequire l itt le maintenance.

Choose tiles made forexterior surfaces. Avoid glazedriles because [hey will beslippery. Quarry rile makes agood choice, as do

flagstone,paving brick,and concretepavers.

WH&T YOU'LL NEED

MATERIALS:-tites, pavers; patchingconcrete; latex concrete bonder; rhinsetmortar: sanded grout; plastic spacers.

TOOLS: tape measure; chaLk line;heavy-duty drill (rentable); mixing bit;rile cutter: rile nippers; wet saw(rentable): mallet; framing square; flatpiece of plywood; large paintbrush;notched trowel; laminated grout float,towels; sponge; bucket.

INSPECT AND PREPARETHE CONCRETE

Installing a new rile surface can straighten outa concrete slab but will not add strength. [fthe old concrete is loose or wobbly, do norrile over it until it has been repaired.

Fill in low spars, cracks, and small holeswith patching concrete. To straighten ourlarge areas, combine dry sarid with portlandcement: mix with water; parch; and trowelsmooch. Allow several days for it to cure.

Clean the concrete thoroughly and brushon latex concrete bonder. Allow it to dry.

LAy OUT THE .JOB

Use a chalk Line

and a framingsquare or a pieceof plywood withtwo facrorv edgesto establishperpendicu larlayout Lines.Plan well toavoid anyslivers at theedges of thepatio. If theslab is out ofsquare, try to

make it asinconspicuousas possible.(S ee p age ..6 fo rlayout ups.)Before you mix

the mortar. do adry run in which

you layout most of rhetiles in position to make sure you

have chosen the best placement.

MIX AND SPREAD ADHESIVE

For a large job, you'll (hank yourself forrenting a heavy-duty drill (hat has a mixingblade. Pour the thinset and latex liquid into a5-gallon bucker, set the mixing blade in, andgrip the bottom of the bucker with your feetto keep it from spinning as you run the drill.Mix rhoroughly to a toothpaste consistency.let it sit for 10 minutes, then mix again. Havea bucket of water on hand (or mixing and toset the blade in when you aren't using it.



9 6

GLOSSARYBevel cut. A diagonal cut madethrough the thickness of a board.

Cable. Electrical wires wrappedtogether in a protective metal orplastic sheathing.

Circuit breaker. In a servicepanel. a device that switches offpower co an electrical circuit whenan overload or short occurs.

Coped cut. A profile cut on apiece of molding that allows it to beburred tighrly against the face ofanother piece in an inside corner.

Flush. On the same plane as orlevel with an adjoining surface.

Glaze. Paint that is translucentbecause it has been mixed withwater (fotlatex paint) or glazingliquid (for oil-based paint).

Grout. Thin mortar used to fill thejoints between tiles.

Grout ftoat. A rectangular coolwirh a soft base used to apply grout.

.Joists. Horizontal framing pieces.usually regularly spaced, thatsupport a floor or ceiling.

LaHice. A pattern of regularlyspaced boards, often crisscrossed.

Miter cut. A joint formed by twopieces cut ro the same angle.Typically, the pieces are cur to 45degrees to form a 90-degree angle.

Molding. Strips of wood, usuallysmall-dimensioned, used to coverexposed edges or as decoration.

Nail set. A pencil-l ike metal toolused to dri ve the heads of nailsslightly below the surface of wood.

Plumb. The condition when aboard or surface is perfectly vertical.

Pressure-treated wood.

Lumber or plywood impregnatedwith a solution chat makes irresistant to rot and insect damage.

Primer. Special paint used to sealstains and ensure that new paintwill adhere ro a surface.

Service panel. The box intowhich elecrric irv from the powercompany flows. It contains fuses orbreakers and distributes power incircuits throughout the house.

METRIC CONVERSIONS

Spackle. A paste that dries andcan be sanded after application. Itfills cracks and holes in walls.

Square. Surfaces positioned at a90,degree angle to each other.

Stop valve. A valve installednear a plumbing fixture to shut offwater only to that fixture.

Studs. Regularly spaced verticalframing pieces, usually 2x4, towhich the wall surfaces (drywall orlathe and plaster) are affixed.

Thinset mortar. An adhesivemade of cement, fine sand, latexbonding agent, and warer.

Threshold. A strip of metal orwood attached to a floor to makethe transition between two surfaces.

Transformer. A device thatreduces or increases voltage.

Underlayment. Sheets ofplywood used to provide a smoothsurface for finish flooring.

Metric Units to U.S. EqUivalentsTo Convert From. Multiply By To Get

Millimenes 0.0394 Inches

Inchesentimetres 0.3937

Cenrlmerres 0.0328

Metres 3.2808

Metres 1.0936Square cennrnecres 0,1550Square metres 10.764Square metres 1.1960Hectares 2.4711Cubic cenrirnerres 0.0610Cubic metres 35.315Litrcs 0.0353Cubic metres 1.308Litres 0.0013

Feer

Feet

Yards

Square inches

Square feet

Square yards

Acres

Cubic inches

Cubic feet

Cubic feet

Cubic yards

Cubic yards

To GetMillimerres

2.54 Centimetres

30.48 Centimetres

0.3048 Metres

0.9144 Metres

6.4516 Square centimetres

0.0929 Square metres

0.8361 Square metres

Acres 0.4047 Hectares

C'tblc inches 16.387 Cubic centimetres

Cubic feet 0.0283 Cubic metres

Cubic (eer 28.316 . Lirres

Cubic yards 0.7646 Cubic metres

764.55 Lines

To convert from degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees CelSIUS (C),first ~tbtract 32. then multiply by %.

To convert from degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit,multiply by 0 / 5 .then add 32.

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50 quick home improvements

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