38772057 national geographic traveler 2010 10

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ULTIMATE DRIVES

27 of the Worlds Best Road Trips

ALL TRAVEL, ALL THE TIME | October 2010

ISTANBULBLACK PEARLInto the Land of MythA Quest for Home in Transylvania

Pico Iyer explores where East meets West, past meets future

IN SEARCH OF THE

GERMANYS CASTLE HOTELS

Port of Call: Charleston

THE OTHER MEDITERRANEANtraveler.nationalgeographic.com

CONTENTS

Draped in coats of sheep wool, shepherds spend the summer in the Transylvanian Alps of Romania.N A T I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L E R

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N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L E RO C T O B E R 2 0 1 0, VO L U M E 2 7, N U M B E R 7

featuresStory by Pico Iyer Photographs by Dave Yoder

Istanbul: City of the FutureIts mix of East and West, secular and spiritual, makes this complex crossroads a Turkish delight. ZBonus video: Istanbuls lively street food vendors. Introduction by Peter Jenkins

Ultimate Road TripsThe road is calling. These 27 routes, from California to Uzbekistan, inspire asphalt adventures. Story by Andrew McCarthy Photographs by Aaron Huey

In Search of the Black PearlA quest for the perfect gift leads to the glistening South Pacific. Story by Amy Alipio Photographs by Catherine Karnow

At Home inTransylvania?A house-hunting couple find themselves entranced by a myth-filled land in the heart of Romania.

On the Cover: Istanbuls Ortakoy Mosque overlooks the Bosporus. Photograph by Ayhan Altun/Alamy.

CONTENTS

Mini Coopers tour London sights.

N A T I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L E R

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columns & DEPartmentsEditors Note Inbox What our readers are saying. Real Travel Read all about itlocally. The Insider Pros and cons of travel insurance. Unbound Boyd Matson searches for enlightenment. ZBonus video: The psychic scene in Sedona. One on One Q&A with geneticist Spencer Wells. Smart TravelerNorth Africa: The other Mediterranean Swinging 60s London revisited 48 hours in Edinburgh Walking tour of Jerusalems Old City Sleeping in German castles Sicilys spa hotels San Francisco stays under $150 History field trips for families Port of call: Charleston Buying authentic

Amish quilts Horsepacking trips Tangoing in Buenos Aires Cape Cod escape. Tipping Point Showing the way forward. Traveler 20 Hot happenings around the world. Your Shot/Travel Flags over Gozo, Malta.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CATHERINE KARNOW (TRANSYLVANIA), SMALLCARBIGCITY (LONDON), BECKY HALE/NGS (BOWL).

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N A T I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L E R

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ADINGEDITOR & VICE PRESIDENT

MASTHEAD

KEITH BELLOWSMANAGING EDITOR SCOTT S. STUCKEY ART & WEB DIRECTOR JERRY SEALY SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR DANIEL R. WESTERGREN SENIOR EDITORS NORIE QUINTOS, JAYNE WISE GEOTOURISM EDITOR JONATHAN B. TOURTELLOT ASSOCIATE EDITORS AMY ALIPIO, SUSAN OKEEFE ASSISTANT EDITOR JANELLE NANOS DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR LEIGH V. BORGHESANI SENIOR DESIGNER MOLLIE BATES PHOTO EDITOR CAROL ENQUIST ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR KRISTA ROSSOW CHIEF RESEARCHER MARILYN TERRELL SENIOR RESEARCHER MEG WEAVER ONLINE EDITOR KATHIE GARTRELL ONLINE PRODUCERS CAROLYN FOX, JARED PEARMAN EDITORS AT LA RGE SHEILA F. BUCKMASTER, COSTAS CHRIST, PAUL MARTIN CONTRIBUTING EDITORS SISSE BRIMBERG, LINDA BURBANK, ANDREW CARROLL, JAMES CONAWAY, COTTON COULSON, CHRISTOPHER ELLIOTT, ANDREW EVANS, MACDUFF EVERTON, DON GEORGE, JUSTIN GUARIGLIA, CARL HOFFMAN, AARON HUEY, CATHERINE KARNOW, PATRICK J. KELLY, P. F. KLUGE, BOB KRIST, CHARLES KULANDER, BARTON LEWIS, MARGARET LOFTUS, BOYD MATSON, RUDY MAXA, ANDREW MCCARTHY, DAISANN MCLANE, MICHAEL MELFORD, PALANI MOHAN, ADDISON ODEA, CHRIS RAINIER, JIM RICHARDSON, JOHN ROSENTHAL, DAVID SWANSON, JAY WALLJASPER EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS DANIEL BORTZ, KELLY CORRIGAN, CAITLIN ETHERTON, JONATHAN KING, ERIN MCNULTY, BLAKELY MILLER, LAURA REINEKE, CINDY SCOTT DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL MARKETING LYNN ACKERSON EDITORIAL MARKETING INTERN CARISSA BENNETT PUBLICIST HEATHER WYATT ngtraveler@hwyattpr.com; 212-610-5535

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Ready, set, go: The Denali Highway in Alaska.

N A T I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L E R

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ADINGBY KEITH BELLOWS, EDITOR

EDITORS NOTE

Man on the Movein more than 20 years, came chugging back into my life in a funky 1957 Chevy. We spent a weekend together, tooled around in his car, and talked about his plan to drive it across America, with no real itinerary, just his instincts to lead the way. The first time he went in search of America was in 1973. Straight out of college with a BFA in sculpture and ceramics, he decided to walk from New York to the West Coast. On the way, he dropped into the National Geographic Societys D.C. headquarters and managed to land an impromptu meeting with National Geographic Editor Gil Grosvenor. He arrived in Grosvenors office in Converse sneakers, sweatpants, and T-shirt. I was just a bearded hippie, Jenkins recalls. Cooper, his half-Alaskan malamute, began drinking out of the toilet. How long are you going to be out? Grosvenor asked. About five months, Jenkins replied. Well, Grosvenor said, the longer you take, the better your experience. Grosvenor, clearly intrigued, gave him a camera and film. A photo editor, Tom Smith, took him under his wing. He finally told me my captions were better than my pictures, says Jenkins. So I tried my hand at writing an article. It was the first of two he did for the magazine (he was also on the cover of the August 1979 issue). The trip eventually took five years. And he went on to write the bestsell-

A

BOUT 13 MONTHS AGO, Peter Jenkins, a man I hadnt seen

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Readers commented on the efficiency of European trains.N A T I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L E R

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ADING

INBOX

W H AT O U R R E A D E R S A R E S AY I N G

Summer Loving

T

HE ROMANCE of train travel that inspired our story Rail-

way to Heaven (July/August 2010) spoke to many of our readers. Journalist Rich Truesdell of Sun City, California, wrote of the allure of travel by rail on the blog Automotive Traveler: I love what I do, and I love cars, but I know theres a better way. Instead of putting up with the trials and tribulations of modern-day air travel, we should do as the Europeans do. They take their train travel seriously: The trains are fast and efficient, and their metro stations are architectural wonders that are almost always clean and safe. You can hear the sound of the timetables spinning and clicking, updating departures and arrivals. I absolutely love that sound. Judie Matter of Minneapolis, Minnesota, recalled her rail trips in North America: Each summer when I was a child our family went from Minneapolis to Seattle on the Northern Pacific Railroad. Such beautiful mountains and the creaky sounds crossing the bridges! Im now 65 years old, and it seems like yesterday. Beauty and Bhutan The column by Boyd Matson on Bhutan (Unbound, July/August 2010) was very interesting, writes Mike Fowler of Rancho Santa

REAL TRAVEL

BY DAISANN MCLANE

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READ ALL ABOUT IT!Seasoned travelers know that nothing beats the local paper for getting a sense of a place.

Mexico, leaves smudges of ink on my hands as I thumb through it over a breakfast in the zocalo, or town square. It cost me four pesos (about 50 cents), but the headlinesin Spanishare priceless: There was something for everyone at the Candelara Festival! reads an exuberant article about a running of the bulls in a nearby town. Music! Happiness and fun! Wounded bulls! I chuckle at this list of the festivals highlights and dig into my plate of huevos and tostadas. The musicians Ive come to see here, who will play marimba music on large wheeled wooden xylophones and the renowned Veracruzan son jarocho (think La Bamba) on guitars and harps, havent yet set up in the zocalo. But gracias to El Dictamen, Im getting a taste of Veracruz while I wait. A flip of the page to the section labeled Sociales offers a glimpse of lovely high-society Veracruzana teens in fabulously puffy white gowns celebrating their traditional coming-of-age 15th birthdaythe Quincein typical Mexican fashion: with a party. Another page flip, and I find theN A T I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L E R

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L DICTAMEN, a popular newspaper in Veracruz,

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ADING

Going native: Scanning regional newspapers dips you into local doings.

THE INSIDER

BY CHRISTOPHER ELLIOTT

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More people are buying policies. But what happens when you have to file a claim?

INSURANCE OVERSELL

ance was that if you cant afford to lose the vacation, insure it. Take out a policy on a roundthe-world cruise if it costs more than a Honda, but consider cheaper vacations disposable (if not partially refundable). Before 9/11, roughly one in ten leisure travelers bought insurance, estimates the U.S. Travel Insurance Association (USTIA), a trade group. But after the 9/11 attacks, interest in travel insuranc