2020-11-01 louisiana cookin

3 louisianacookin.com

contentsNOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 | VOLUME 23, ISSUE 6

fi rst, you make aroux. Spillin’ the Beans

9 Light & Fresh Blissful Bites

2 In Season Southern Staple

25 Afi eld & Afl oat Woodcock for the Holidays by Chef John D. Folse

27 FoodwaysSharing the Sizzle

by Chef John D. Folse

33

CAFÉ AU LAITMAKES 4 SERVINGS

¼ cup cold heavy whipping cream2 teaspoons sugar1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups whole milk 2 cups French Press Chicory Coffee (recipe at right)

1. In a medium bowl, beat cold cream, sugar, and vanilla with a mixer at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, about 1 minute. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 4 hours.2. In a small saucepan, heat milk over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until steaming, 5 to 7 minutes. (Do not boil.)3. Divide French Press Chicory Coffee evenly among 4 (8-ounce or larger) mugs. Top coffee with ½ cup hot milk. Serve with whipped cream.

FRENCH PRESS CHICORY COFFEEMAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

4 tablespoons New Orleans French Market® Medium-Dark Roast Coffee & Chicory4 cups boiling water

1. In a 4-cup French press, place coffee grounds. Pour 2 tablespoons boiling water over coffee grounds; bloom for 30 seconds. Pour remaining boiling water over coffee, and let steep for 4 minutes. Gently stir mixture with a spoon so grounds begin to sink. Press coffee. Use immediately.

ADVERTISING

The iconic pairing of coffee and chicory has long been a favorite of many New Orleans natives. This beloved coffee blend has a unique and storied heritage in the Crescent City, where locals commonly mix it with steaming hot milk for a café au lait as an ideal start to their day or fi nish to any meal.

Chicory, the bitter root of a leafy plant related to endive, has been cultivated for thousands of years, but it is thought to have caught on in France as a coffee substitute a few centuries ago. Today, chicory is roasted, ground, and blended with dark-roast coffee for a distinct fl avor New Orleanians have come to love. It is uncertain when the practice of adding chicory to coffee became commonplace in the Big Easy. Some sources believe it came to the city with the Acadians, while others think it gained favorability during the American Civil War, when Union naval blockades cut off the Port of New Orleans.

Throughout its 130-year history in New Orleans, French Market® Coffee has been a local favorite for its bold coffee and chicory blend, made with exotic coffee beans and the fi nest imported French chicory. The blend’s rich, slightly sweet fl avor makes it the perfect addition to a café au lait.

ADVVEERTISING


entréesthe main course

57 7 7 Sweets Gourmet Gift

79 Quick & Easy Breakfast to Go

8 Local Pantry The Jelly with a Bite

85 By the Book The Good Book of Southern Baking

9 7 Swizzle Stick Sparkling Sipper by Kirk Estopinal

95 Index & Resources

97 Lagniappe21

337 A Bayou State Thanksgiving A fl avorful menu for an intimate Thanksgiving dinner

4 Well Seasoned Comforting recipes cooked in cast iron

47 Heartwarming Holiday Casseroles Five fi lling dishes with Louisiana fl avor

557 Fresh Catch for the Holidays An elegant oyster dish to enjoy this season by George Graham

577 Festive Holiday Desserts Six decadent sweets with festive fl air

657 Gifts from the Kitchen Heavenly homemade food gifts

7 7 Pearls of the Gulf Our favorite spots for oysters lagniappe

a little something extra

Volume 23, Issue 6November/December 2020

EDITOR Caitlin Watzke SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother

COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kirk Estopinal, John D. Folse, George Graham

CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY

Mac Jamieson

SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER

John O’Hagan

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Stephanie Welbourne Steele

SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST

Delisa McDanielDIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore

GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Deanna Rippy Gardner

ART DIRECTOR Nancy Miller Heard

SENIOR STYLIST Sidney Bragiel STYLISTS

Courtni Bodiford, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones, Lily Simpson, Melissa Sturdivant Smith, Dorothy Walton

TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh FOOD STYLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS Laura Crandall, J.R. Jacobson, Kathleen Kanen, Megan Lankford, Tricia Manzanero, Vanessa Rocchio, Taylor Franklin Wann

CONTRIBUTING FOOD STYLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS

Kellie Gerber Kelley, Anita Simpson Spain

CHEFS TO WATCH ADVISORY BOARD

Kristen Essig, Holly Goetting, Jeff rey Hansell,Colt Patin, Nathan Richard

E D I T O R I A L

D I G I TA L M E D I AMARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison

MARKETING COORDINATOR Hannah CroweSENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay

DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert

A D M I N I S T R AT I V EHUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR

Judy Brown Lazenby

IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott HoltDEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice RitterADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL

Alex Kolar

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E D I TO R’SL E T T E R

ON THE COVER

Satsuma-Cranberry Bundt Cake (page 64)

photography by jim bathierecipe development by tricia manzanero

food styling by vanessa rocchiostyling by lucy fi nney

FOR MANY OF US, the holidays are tied to special memories

of favorite meals and recipes shared with loved ones. My family’s

Th anksgiving and Christmas celebrations just wouldn’t be the same

without my mom’s breakfast casserole (served on the same Christmas

china we used when I was growing up), my grandmother’s baked macaroni

and cheese, or my great-aunt’s pralines, which I can never seem to replicate

no matter how many times I make them.

Th is year, I look forward to making new memories with some of

the recipes included in this issue. Th ough our holiday celebrations may

be scaled back this year, that doesn’t mean they can’t still be special.

Th roughout these pages, you’ll fi nd plenty of inspiration to make this

season a delicious one at home.

Our Th anksgiving feast (starting on page 33) is perfect for an intimate

family dinner, and any one of our Heartwarming Holiday Casseroles

(starting on page 47) is sure to become an instant favorite. Th e Zapp’s

Potato Chip-topped squash casserole (page 53) and Sweet Potatoes with

Bourbon Butter (page 40) are both winners in my book.

For something sweet, turn to page 57 to discover a few of our best-

ever holiday desserts. As a lover of all things cranberry, I can’t wait to bake

the Satsuma-Cranberry Bundt Cake (page 64) that graces our cover. In my

opinion, you can never go wrong when peanut butter and chocolate are

involved, and our bread pudding recipe (page 63) is a delightful twist on

the classic New Orleans dessert.

I hope you enjoy this comforting collection of recipes that incorporate

our favorite seasonal fl avors. Warmest wishes for a wonderful holiday

season fi lled with delicious memories!

FOLLOW US ON

VISIT US AT LOUISIANACOOKIN.COM.

EDITOR’S PICKS

PECAN PIE

CAMELLIA GRILL

New Orleans

LEA’S

LUNCHROOM

Lecompte

COUNTERSPACEBR

Baton Rouge


NEW & IRRESISTIBLE

SP I L L I N’ T H E B EANS PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND

ALMA NEW ORLEANS

Chef Melissa Araujo was set to open her modern Honduran eatery

this fall in the Bywater building that was once home to Paloma

Cafe and Cafe Henri. Th e restaurant is a follow-up to her pop-up

of the same name that operated at former food hub Roux Carre.

Melissa, who was born in Honduras and raised in New Orleans,

was a sous chef at Doris Metropolitan and worked at Domenica

and Shaya before striking out on her own. She plans to introduce a

new menu every three months, with each menu concentrating on

a diff erent region of Honduras. eatalmanola.com

AVO TACO NEW ORLEANS

New York-based taco joint AVO TACO

opened its second location, in Port

Orleans Brewing Co., this past summer

aft er hosting a successful pop-up at

the brewery last year. Th e new location

is managed by Rooted Hospitality

Group, which also manages the brand’s

award-winning New York location. Th e

New Orleans location serves a variety

of specialty tacos, quesadillas, starters,

and burgers. avotaco.com

PIZZA BYRONZ BATON ROUGE

Th e restaurant formerly known as Flambée Cafe rebranded and debuted

an expanded menu in July. At Pizza Byronz, diners can enjoy pizza three

diff erent ways: classic, square-shaped, and fl ambée (“the French cousin”

to pizza, with a fl atbread crust). Th e pizzeria, which is part of the Bistro

Byronz restaurant group, worked with Chef John Folse to develop its

dough and sauces. Th e menu also off ers pasta, burgers, hot sandwiches,

and salads. facebook.com/pizzabyronz


JUICY TIDBITS

K-Paul’s New Orleans

We are sad to report that French

Quarter dining institution K-Paul’s

Louisiana Kitchen, founded by the

late, great Chef Paul Prudhomme,

closed permanently in July due to the

COVID-19 pandemic. Th e restaurant

had been open since 1979. Th e iconic

building is up for sale, though the

K-Paul’s name will not be part of

any sale. “We have been blessed and

honored to serve our customers who

have become family through shared

stories, breaking bread with jalapeno

cheddar yeast rolls and raised martini

glasses,” Brenda Prudhomme and

Chef Paul Miller said in a statement

on the restaurant’s website.

Trep’s New Orleans

Trep’s was set to open in mid-

September in Mid-City New Orleans.

Th e patio restaurant, housed in a

former auto service station, aims to

be the neighborhood’s go-to spot for

food and drinks in a family-friendly

atmosphere. Th e preliminary menu

features burgers, salads, tacos on roti

bread, raw and grilled oysters, and

more. trepsnola.com

Virtual Cooking Class

If you’re looking for a unique holiday

gift idea, several local cooking schools

and businesses have been off ering

virtual cooking classes during the

COVID-19 pandemic. Red Stick Spice

Company, the New Orleans School

of Cooking, and the New Orleans

Culinary & Hospitality Institute have

all been hosting cooking classes via

Zoom, and Commander’s Palace has

been keeping things fun with virtual

wine and cheese parties.

SALTING BEANS: AT THE BEGINNING OF COOKING OR THE END?

It’s commonly believed that salting at the beginning of cooking leads

to tough beans. But recently, expert testers have debunked the myth,

salting at the beginning and ending up with tender beans. If using

seasoning meats (which are high in salt) for fl avor, wait until the end

of cooking before tasting and adding more salt, if necessary.

For more tips and delicious recipes, visit camelliabrand.com.

THE SCOOPfrom Camellia Brand

ADVERTISING

COFFEE JOY BATON ROUGE

Coff ee lovers, get ready to geek out over the off erings at Coff ee Joy, which

opened at the Acadian Perkins Plaza Shopping Center this past spring.

Th e shop from cousins Fevzi and Emrah Sarac makes coff ee using a

variety of methods, including a gold Belgian balance siphon coff ee maker,

a Chemex drip coff ee maker, and a French press. Cold drinks, teas, and

homemade pastries round out the menu. coff eejoy.com


HIDEAWAY ON LEE

LAFAYETTE

Th e Stand on Lee, a late-night burger joint in

downtown Lafayette, reopened as Hideaway

on Lee over the summer. Owners Wilson

Savoy and Line and David Livingston began

renovating the property in February to

include space for a music venue and cocktail

bar. In addition to classic and creative

burgers, Hideaway on Lee serves simple

bar bites and shareable items and off ers a

seasonally driven cocktail program.

hideawayonlee.com

PRODUCT PICK

EVANGELINE’S

PRALINE LIQUEURS

Pralines are a sweet holiday tradition

in New Orleans, and Sazerac Company

off ers its take on the beloved pecan

candy with its line of indulgent praline

liqueurs. Evangeline’s Praline Pecan

Liqueur is smooth and rich, with an

irresistible pecan pie aroma and sweet,

syrupy fl avor that pairs well with

coff ee, milk, or a

variety of cocktails.

Th e company also

off ers a cream

liqueur, Evangeline’s

Pralines and Cream.

Th is easy-to-drink

liqueur is divine

over ice,

chilled, or

drizzled

over ice

cream.

UNION RAMEN NEW ORLEANS

Chef Nhat “Nate” Nguyen and business partner Jeff Gapultos unveiled

the brick-and-mortar location of their popular ramen pop-up this past

summer. Th e concept came about aft er a night on the town when Nhat

served his friends the ramen recipe he’d been working on and they said

it was some of the best they’d ever tasted. Located in the Lower Garden

District, Union Ramen off ers poultry- and plant-based broths. Protein

options pay homage to the local culture, with selections such as blackened

chicken and ground beef and tasso. unionramen.com


What inspired you to start Cajun Crate?My husband and I were just sitting around one night, and

he was like, “We need to send my sister a care package.”

We were always sending somebody something . . . and I

thought, “Th ere must be an easier way.” I was super into

subscription boxes at the time, and my husband was

like, “Well, you should start your own subscription box

and call it Cajun Crate.” He said this just in passing but I

was like, “Oh my gosh, that’s a great idea.” I went online,

and I got a domain really quick, and I got the business

registered. We just kind of let it sit, and we talked about

it a couple more times. Th en we did a Kickstarter, and we

raised $21,000 in 45 days. Th at gave us the confi dence,

like, “OK, we can really do this. Th is is a real business.

People really want this.” We thought it would be mostly

friends but family, and it was barely friends and family.

Th ere are people from all over the country subscribing to

it, sending us messages, saying, “Oh, I need this. I miss

Louisiana. I miss the taste of home.”

How does Cajun Crate work?You can sign up for month-to-month, three months, six

months, or 12 months. Th ere’s also a gift version where you

can send someone a three-month subscription, and it will

send them a box once a month for three months. Th at’s

usually a really popular gift around Christmas because

they’ll get boxes in December, January, and February,

which means they will also get a Mardi Gras-themed box.

How has Cajun Crate evolved since it started?One of the biggest requests I had right out the gate was,

“I love this product. Now, how do I get more of it?” We

had the biggest demand for Zydeco Chop Chop, which

is dehydrated Cajun trinity. I put it in the second box,

and it is my number one seller to this date. We started

carrying that in an online store so people could get refi lls.

Now, I’ve introduced more than 500 products through

the subscription box, so I have at least 500 diff erent Cajun

products you can buy from the website.

Do most of your subscribers live outside of Louisiana? About 80 percent of our subscribers

are outside of Louisiana. However,

we do have quite a few people in

Louisiana who subscribe just so they

can try things they can’t get in their

neck of the woods. On the regular

online storefront, we’ve had a huge

increase of people buying from us

locally during the pandemic because

they’re trying not to go to the grocery

stores.

If you’re from Louisiana but now living elsewhere, or if you have

family and friends in other states, you probably know how hard it

can be to fi nd quality Louisiana-made products outside of the state.

Aft er realizing she was constantly sending “Cajun care packages”

to family and friends, Lafayette resident Tara Guidry was inspired

to start Cajun Crate, a subscription box service featuring products

made exclusively in Louisiana. Since Cajun Crate was founded in

2016, it has expanded to include an online storefront with hundreds

of Louisiana-made food products. We recently chatted with Tara to

learn how she is spreading Louisiana love with Cajun Crate.

MEET THE MAKER

ADVERTISING AS SEEN IN OUR BOOK

CajunGrowing

UppΔ≈

HOLIDAY HAM≈

makes 14 to 16 servings

ADDING A LITTLE

≈ SINCE 2001 ΔSpice to Life Spice to Life Spice toLife

1 (1-pound) bag Slap Ya Mama Cajun

Seafood Boil

1 (8-pound) picnic ham

½ cup water

1 (12-ounce) can cola

2 teaspoons Slap Ya Mama Original

Blend Cajun Seasoning

1. Fill a large stockpot halfway full

with water, and pour in Slap Ya Mama

Cajun Seafood Boil. Bring to a boil over

medium-high heat, and place ham in

pot. Boil for about 1 hour. Remove ham;

let drain and cool.

2. Preheat oven to 400°.

3. Trim top skin from ham, leaving a

little fat. In a crisscross pattern, slice

top of ham about ¼ inch deep. Pour

½ cup water in bottom of a roasting

pan. Add ham; pour cola over ham.

Sprinkle ham with Slap Ya Mama

Original Blend Cajun Seasoning.

4. Bake for 30 minutes. Reduce oven

temperature to 350°, and bake until

there is a nice crisp on exterior of

ham, about 30 minutes more. Serve

immediately.

Bring some Louisiana Cajun fl avor to your next holiday dinner with this special ham recipe. The Slap Ya Mama spices

and Southern cola fl avors will have you wanting more year-round.

SlapYaMamaVideosslapyamama.com | 800.485.5217 #slapyamama

≈


L I GH T & F R ESH

WITH ALL THE COOKING that takes place during the holiday season, it’s nice to have an easy

appetizer recipe up your sleeve. Crostini are an eff ortless yet elegant starter that make entertaining

a breeze. One of the great things about crostini is that the toppings are customizable. In this recipe,

a creamy ricotta cheese mixture is spread on toasted baguette rounds and topped with lightly spiced

shrimp and chopped bell peppers. Serve them alongside Champagne or cocktails for a wonderful start

to your holiday celebrations.

BLISSFUL BITES


SHRIMP AND BELL PEPPER CROSTINIMAKES 24

These crostini are an ideal way to start a holiday dinner with family and friends.

½ cup chopped red bell pepper½ cup chopped yellow bell pepper1½ tablespoons diced shallot1½ teaspoons olive oil1 teaspoon sherry vinegar¼ teaspoon kosher salt⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper½ cup ricotta cheese2 teaspoons minced garlic, divided1 teaspoon lemon zest2 tablespoons unsalted butter24 peeled and deveined large fresh shrimp½ teaspoon Creole seasoning2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley24 toasted baguette roundsGarnish: chopped fresh parsley

1. In the work bowl of a food processor, combine bell peppers and shallot; pulse until bell peppers are fi nely diced. Transfer to a small bowl; add oil, vinegar, salt, and black pepper, stirring to combine. Set aside.2. In another small bowl, stir together cheese, 1 teaspoon garlic, and lemon zest; set aside.3. In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. 4. In a large bowl, toss together shrimp and Creole seasoning. Add parsley and remaining 1 teaspoon garlic. Add shrimp mixture to skillet, tossing to coat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are just pink and fi rm, 3 to 4 minutes; remove from skillet.5. Spread cheese mixture evenly over baguette rounds. Top each round with a spoonful of bell pepper mixture and 1 shrimp. Garnish with parsley, if desired. Serve immediately. �

photography by stephanie welbourne steele | styling by sidney bragiel

I N SEASO N

recipe development by anita simpson spain | food styling by kathleen kanen

SOUTHERN STAPLE


PECANS ARE UBIQUITOUS throughout the South during the winter, just in time for those holiday sides and

desserts. Available both in-shell and shelled, Louisiana pecans add unmistakable fl avor and crunch to many of the

season’s best recipes, like pralines, pies, and sweet potato casserole. Here, we’ve come up with three exciting ways to

incorporate pecans into your cooking this season with recipes for stuff ed acorn squash, pork tenderloin, and muffi ns.

PECAN RICE-STUFFED ACORN SQUASHMAKES 4 SERVINGS

In this recipe, acorn squash is stuff ed with a delectable mixture of rice, pecans, bacon, and cheese.

2 (1- to 1¼-pound) acorn squash, halved crosswise and seeded4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil¼ teaspoon kosher salt⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper4 slices thick-cut bacon ¼ cup diced celery ¼ cup chopped green onion1 (8.8-ounce) package ready-to-serve long-grain rice, cooked according to package directions6 tablespoons chopped pecans½ cup shredded extra-sharp white Cheddar cheese, divided¼ teaspoon Cajun seasoningGarnish: chopped green onion, chopped toasted pecans

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Cut a thin slice from bottom of each squash half so they sit fl at. Place squash, hollowed side up, on prepared pan. Rub each cut squash with 1 teaspoon oil to coat. Sprinkle interior with salt and pepper, and turn hollowed side down on pan.

3. Bake until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Using a spatula, carefully turn squash hollowed side up on pan. Leave oven on.4. In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon using a slotted spatula, and let drain on paper towels, reserving 1 tablespoon drippings in skillet. 5. Add celery to skillet; cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add green onion, and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute. Remove skillet from heat. Crumble bacon, and add to skillet. Add rice, pecans, ¼ cup cheese, and Cajun seasoning, stirring to combine. Fill each squash half with about ½ cup celery mixture.6. Bake until heated through, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup cheese. Serve immediately. Garnish with green onion and toasted pecans, if desired.

CHOOSING & STORING: PECANSChoose: Shelled pecans are available year-round and should be plump and uniform in size and color. Unshelled pecans should not have any cracks or holes.

Store: Keep unshelled pecans in a cool, dry place for up to 6 months. Store shelled pecans in the refrigerator for up to 9 months or in the freezer for up to 2 years.

CRANBERRY-PECAN MUFFINSMAKES 12

Tart cranberries and nutty pecans make a perfect pair in these muffi ns.

¼ cup unsalted butter, softened½ cup plus 2 tablespoons fi rmly packed light brown sugar1 large egg½ teaspoon vanilla extract1¼ cups all-purpose fl our1⅛ teaspoons baking powder½ teaspoon ground ginger¼ teaspoon baking soda¼ teaspoon kosher salt½ cup whole buttermilk

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh cranberries, chopped and divided⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped pecans, divided2 teaspoons sanding sugarGarnish: sanding sugar

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 12 muffi n cups with paper liners.2. In a large bowl, beat butter and brown sugar with a mixer at medium speed until fl uff y, about 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add egg, beating well. Beat in vanilla.3. In a medium bowl, whisk together fl our, baking powder, ginger, baking soda, and salt. With mixer on low speed, gradually add fl our mixture

to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk, beginning and ending with fl our mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. Fold in ½ cup cranberries and ⅓ cup pecans. Spoon batter into prepared muffi n cups, fi lling two-thirds full. Top with remaining 2 tablespoons cranberries and remaining 2 tablespoons pecans.4. Bake for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with sanding sugar, and bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 10 to 12 minutes more. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. Garnish with sanding sugar, if desired. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2020 24

PECAN-CRUSTED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH PEARSMAKES 4 SERVINGS

A pecan coating gives this pork tenderloin plenty of crunch.

⅔ cup fi nely chopped pecans2 tablespoons plain dry bread crumbs2 tablespoons fi rmly packed light brown sugar1 tablespoon minced fresh sage½ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon garlic powder¼ teaspoon ground black pepper1 large egg1 tablespoon Creole mustard

1 (1- to 1¼-pound) pork tenderloin, trimmed1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil2 red pears, stemmed, cored, and each cut into 8 wedges1 small red onion, cut into ½-inch wedgesGarnish: fresh sage leaves

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil; spray foil with cooking spray. 2. In a shallow dish, stir together pecans, bread crumbs, brown sugar, minced sage, salt, garlic powder, and pepper. In another shallow dish, whisk together egg and mustard. Dip pork

in egg mixture to coat, letting excess drip off . Dredge in pecan mixture, completely covering pork, and place in center of prepared pan.3. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add pears and onion, turning to coat with oil, and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer to prepared pan, arranging mixture on both sides of pork.4. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest portion of pork registers 145°, 20 to 25 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes; cut into ½-inch-thick slices. Serve with pears and onion. Garnish with sage leaves, if desired.



THOUGH THESE COVID-19 DAYS have limited

gatherings and robbed us of events, they have also

brought back family meals and memories of simpler

times. Especially at this time of year, when autumn’s

collage of color blends into the crisp days of winter, my

mind returns to family Th anksgiving dinners, Christmas

Mass, and the joy of knowing a new year will soon arrive.

In St. James Parish, sugarcane grinding began

around October. Th e cane was cut and then burned

to remove the sharp leaves, leaving only the cane to

be processed. Raw sugar,

brown sugar, and cane

syrup were abundant

gift s of the winter season.

Of course, this was also

hunting season.

Th e migratory

woodcock (a.k.a. bécasse) is

an extremely popular small

game bird with brown and cinnamon fl ecks. Today, the

season runs from mid-December through January. For

us, woodcock season coincided with grinding season.

Woodcock liked to feed in the recently stripped cane

fi elds, which meant the cane fi elds were overrun at dusk

and dawn with the Folse brothers.

My eldest brother, Bo’boy, was a hunter from birth

and also quite a marksman. He could bag a “mess” of

birds in no time. (For the uninitiated, “mess” is equivalent

to about 24 birds.) Today, the bag limit is three birds.

Bo’boy tried his best to teach me to hunt woodcock in the

cane scrub, but I never could see the eyes he told me to

aim for. It was sitting in the cane fi elds next to Bo’boy that

I learned I would never be a hunter.

Even though hunting was not my destiny, I did

become a pretty good cook, and although we were not

a wealthy family, we certainly enjoyed fi ne eating and

happened to be in pretty good company. It turns out that

gourmets have sung the praises of the humble woodcock

for more than 1,000 years.

Th e classic culinary reference

Larousse Gastronomique has

33 recipes for woodcock

alone and Jean Anthelme

Brillat-Savarin raved,

“Th e mouth waters in

anticipation of delight.”

Recipes abound from eating

them whole, hanging them until they begin to smell

because of spoilage, and dunking them in hot oil so their

entrails turn into a small ball, which is easily removed

before eating.

Still, I think the best preparation of woodcock is that

of Uncle Paul, who browned the woodcock in hog lard

and pot-roasted it until tender. Woodcock was reserved

for “good company,” making it perfect to grace the

holiday table or to herald the new year.

AF I E L D & AF LOAT

by chef john d. folse | food styling by kellie gerber kelley

Chef John D. Folse is an entrepreneur with interests ranging from restaurant development to food manufacturing, catering to culinary education. Similar recipes can be found in After the Hunt (Chef John Folse & Company).

WOODCOCK FOR THE HOLIDAYS

“WOODCOCK LIKED TO FEED IN THE RECENTLY STRIPPED CANE FIELDS, WHICH MEANT THE CANE FIELDS

WERE OVERRUN AT DUSK AND DAWN WITH THE FOLSE BROTHERS.”

UNCLE PAUL’S WOODCOCKMAKES 6 SERVINGS

In Louisiana, woodcock hunting season and the holiday season coincide, making this recipe ideal for special occasions.

6 (4-ounce) cleaned woodcocks (quail, doves, or favorite game bird can be substituted)2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper4 tablespoons all-purpose fl our6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided¼ cup vegetable oil, divided1 cup diced yellow onion1 cup diced celery ½ cup diced green bell pepper¼ cup minced garlic 2 cups sliced baby portobello mushrooms

1 cup diced carrot½ cup sliced green onion1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon1 cup dry white wine3 cups chicken stock2 medium red apples, diced (about 2½ cups)2 dried bay leavesHot cooked rice, to serveGarnish: fresh tarragon leaves, fresh basil leaves

1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. Sprinkle woodcocks inside and out with salt, black pepper, and cayenne; dust with fl our. Close birds, and secure with wooden picks.3. In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, melt 3 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoonsoil over medium heat. Add 3 woodcocks, and cook until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Let drain on a paper towel-lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining

butter, remaining oil, and remaining

woodcocks.

4. In same skillet, cook yellow onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic over medium heat until vegetables are softened and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Stir in mushrooms, carrot, green onion, chopped basil, and chopped tarragon. Add wine, scraping browned bits from bottom of skillet with a wooden spoon; add stock, and bring to a boil. Add apple and bay leaves. Return woodcocks, breast side up, to skillet. Cover with lid. 5. Bake until woodcocks are tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Uncover and bake until lightly browned, 5 to 10 minutes more. Discard bay leaves. Serve over rice. Garnish with tarragon leaves and basil leaves, if desired.

KITCHEN TIP: If woodcocks become dry during cooking process, add more chicken stock.

Note: At the time we went to press, woodcock was unavailable, so this recipe was photographed with quail.


LO U ISIANAFOO D WAYS

I LEARNED EARLY

IN MY CAREER

that while chefs and

restaurateurs are

competitors, they are

much better friends

than foes. One late

Sunday aft ernoon

in 1978, Ruth Fertel,

owner of Ruth’s

Chris Steak House in

New Orleans, dined

at my Lafi tte’s Landing in Donaldsonville. I had opened

the previous July and was honored to have the Empress

of Steak seated in my restaurant. I’m sure that Ruth

understood from the sea of white tablecloths on vacant

tables that I was in desperate need of business. Th at is

when I learned about a restaurateur’s generous heart.

Aft er enjoying her meal, Ruth called me over.

Following a little small talk, she said, “How much do you

want for that framed painting hanging on the wall?” She

had spied my original Mardi Gras Flambeaux Carriers by

Robert Rucker. “Well, Ms. Fertel,” I gently explained, “it’s

really not for sale.” But Ruth was an astute businesswoman

and insisted. So, I slyly remarked, “Well, the price is much

more than you’d want to pay,” to which she responded,

“Name your price.” I did, and she said, “Sold!” I was

completely fl oored when she asked for Rucker’s Jazz in the Quarter painting, which hung next to it! Needless to say, I

was more than happy to “load ’em up” as she headed to her

Broad Street restaurant to hang them.

When Ruth left , my restaurant walls were bare, but

my cash till was full, as was my heart. I had no money

and was days from having to close the restaurant. She was

an answer to a prayer. In time, I understood that Ruth’s

purchase was not about the paintings; it was her generous

heart that knew I needed help and she was able to provide

it without damage to my pride.

Our friendship grew through the years. Before she

passed away, she and her son Randy Fertel endowed Bistro

Ruth at the Chef John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls

State University in Th ibodaux. In this restaurant, culinary

students prepare outstanding dinners for local patrons.

Ruth also gift ed me with another treasure: her recipe

for Plaquemines Parish Oyster Dressing, which I’m

sharing with you. I make this dressing every Th anksgiving

and Christmas. What generous gift s I received from the

First Lady of American Restaurants!

SHARING THE SIZZLEby chef john d. folse

Chef John D. Folse is an entrepreneur with interests ranging from restaurant development to food manufacturing, catering to culinary education. Similar recipes can be found in The Encyclopedia of Cajun & Creole Cuisine (Chef John Folse & Company).

RUTH FERTEL’S PLAQUEMINES PARISH OYSTER DRESSINGMAKES 12 TO 15 SERVINGS

Oyster dressing is a favorite holiday dish in Louisiana. This extra-decadent version is packed with oysters, shrimp, and sausage.

4 (16-ounce) containers shucked oysters, drained, liquor reserved, picked free of shell1 pound small fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined4 tablespoons unsalted butter8 ounces smoked sausage, minced8 ounces andouille sausage, minced 1½ cups diced yellow onion1 cup diced celery½ cup diced green bell pepper½ cup diced red bell pepper2 tablespoons minced garlic6 cubes chicken bouillon½ teaspoon crushed red pepper2 (12-ounce) loaves stale French bread, cut into 1-inch cubes

6 large eggs, lightly beaten1 cup unsalted butter, melted ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. In a 14-inch cast-iron skillet, combine oysters and reserved oyster liquor; cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until edges are curled, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove oysters using a slotted spoon, reserving oyster liquor in skillet.3. Add shrimp to skillet; cook overmedium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove shrimp using a slotted spoon. Strain cooking liquid through a fi ne-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl. Reserve 3 cups cooking liquid. Reserve remaining liquid for another use. Let oysters and shrimp cool enough to handle; coarsely chop, and set aside.

4. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add sausages; cook, stirring frequently, until fat is released from sausages. Add onion, celery, bell peppers, and garlic; cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in bouillon cubes until dissolved. Add chopped oysters and shrimp and 3 cups reserved cooking liquid; bring to a rolling boil. Reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add red pepper. Remove from heat.5. Stir bread cubes, 2 cups at a time, into oyster mixture until enough bread has been added to absorb liquid but mixture is still moist. Gradually stir in eggs and melted butter, tossing to coat. Transfer to skillet. Cover with foil. 6. Bake for 1 hour. Uncover and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes more. Sprinkle with parsley. Let stand for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Louisiana

OCTOBER 3-4, 2020

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OCTOBER 15-18, 2020

84TH INTERNATIONAL RICE FESTIVAL

DOWNTOWN CROWLEY, LA337.783.3067ricefestival.com

[email protected] OF THE CAJUN PRAIRIE

JOIE DE VIVRE—A LITTLE JOY OF LIVING

EMAIL: [email protected] | FaceBook: @VisitAcadiaParish

877.783.2109 | www.acadiatourism.org

ACADIA PARISH TOURIST COMMISSION

PLAN THE ULTIMATE TURKEY DAY FEAST WITH THIS ELEGANT MENU

THAT’S PERFECT FOR AN INTIMATE DINNER, WITH TASTY LEFTOVERS TO DIG INTO

THE NEXT DAY

photography by william dickey | recipe development by j.r. jacobson

food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by lucy fi nney


BACON-WRAPPEDDATES

P. 39

WINTERKALE SALAD

P. 39

HERB ANDCHEESE BISCUITS

P. 40


SWEET POTATOESWITH BOURBON BUTTER

P. 40


CAJUN SPICED TURKEYMAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Rubbed with butter and a homemade Cajun spice blend, this turkey will be the star of your Thanksgiving dinner.

1 (12- to 14-pound) whole turkey, giblets and neck discarded½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature8 tablespoons Cajun Spice Mix (recipe follows), divided2 cups chopped yellow onion (about 1 large onion)1½ cups chopped celery (about 3 stalks celery)1 cup chopped green bell pepper (about 1 medium bell pepper)¼ cup olive oil

1. Line a large roasting pan with foil. Place a V-shaped roasting rack over foil, and spray with cooking spray. Place turkey, breast side up, on prepared rack, and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a medium bowl, stir together butter and 2 tablespoons Cajun Spice Mix. Gently loosen skin from turkey, keeping skin intact. Rub butter evenly mixture under skin on each breast. Pat turkey dry, and sprinkle all over with remaining 6 tablespoons Cajun Spice Mix, rubbing it into the skin. Tie legs with butcher's twine. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.3. Let turkey stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

4. Position oven rack to lowest level. Preheat oven to 375°.5. In a medium bowl, combine onion, celery, and bell pepper. Fill turkey cavity with vegetable mixture, scattering any remaining vegetables across bottom of roasting pan. Brush turkey with oil.6. Bake for 1 hour. Rotate pan, and bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest portion of thigh registers 165°, 1 to 1½ hours more, covering with foil to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Transfer turkey to platter, and let stand for at least 20 minutes before carving.

CAJUN SPICE MIXMAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP

2 tablespoons kosher salt2 tablespoons garlic powder2 tablespoons onion powder4 teaspoons smoked paprika2 teaspoons ground oregano2 teaspoons ground thyme2 teaspoons ground black pepper1 teaspoon ground cumin½ teaspoon dry mustard½ teaspoon celery salt½ teaspoon ground chipotle chile pepper

1. In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months.

BACON-WRAPPED DATESMAKES 12

(photo on page 35)

We paired this popular holiday appetizer with a spicy Cane Syrup Sauce for a more dynamic fl avor.

4 ounces goat cheese, room temperature1½ teaspoons orange zest (about 1 medium orange)2 teaspoons fresh orange juice (about 1 medium orange)12 pitted Medjool dates4 slices bacon, cut into thirdsCane Syrup Sauce (recipe follows), to serve

1. Preheat oven to 425°. 2. In a small bowl, stir together goat cheese and orange zest and juice. Stuff each date with about 1 teaspoon goat cheese mixture, and wrap with 1 piece of bacon. Secure with a wooden pick, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. 3. Bake until bacon is evenly cooked, 13 to 15 minutes, turning dates halfway through baking. Serve warm with Cane Syrup Sauce.

CANE SYRUP SAUCEMAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP

½ cup chicken broth⅓ cup cane syrup1 tablespoon hot sauce¼ teaspoon Cajun seasoning1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cubed1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

1. In a small stockpot, bring broth to a boil over medium-high heat. Add cane syrup, hot sauce, and Cajun seasoning, and cook until slightly reduced, 7 to 9 minutes.2. Add butter and sherry to broth mixture, and cook, whisking constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool slightly. Refrigerate for up to 1 day.

WINTER KALE SALADMAKES 6 SERVINGS

Full of fl avors and textures, this colorful kale salad with Peppercorn Vinaigrette will be a festive addition to your Thanksgiving table.

½ small butternut squash, peeled1 tablespoon olive oil1 teaspoon kosher salt2 medium peeled red beets2 medium peeled golden beets2 medium peeled carrots


1 bunch fresh curly kale, stemmed and torn (about 4 cups)1⁄2 cup Peppercorn Vinaigrette (recipe follows)1 cup chopped walnuts⅓ cup pomegranate arils

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Place a wire rack on a rimmed baking sheet. 2. Using a Y-shaped vegetable peeler, slice squash from top to bottom into 1-inch-wide ribbons. Place squash ribbons on prepared rack; brush with oil, and sprinkle with salt. 3. Bake until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. 4. Using a spiralizer, peel beets and carrots into ribbons. Set aside. 5. In a large bowl, combine kale and Peppercorn Vinaigrette; toss to coat, gently massaging leaves with clean hands. Add squash, beets, and carrots; lightly toss to combine. Top with walnuts and pomegranate arils. Serve with additional vinaigrette, if desired. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate overnight.

PEPPERCORN VINAIGRETTE MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS

⅓ cup red wine vinegar1 tablespoon minced shallot2 teaspoons cane syrup1 teaspoon minced garlic½ teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon cracked black peppercorns½ teaspoon cracked green peppercorns½ teaspoon cracked white peppercorns⅔ cup olive oil

1. In a medium bowl, combine vinegar, shallot, cane syrup, garlic, salt, and peppercorns. Whisk in oil in a slow, steady stream until combined.

SWEET POTATOES WITH BOURBON BUTTERMAKES 6 SERVINGS

Topped with a sweet bourbon-pecan crumble, these sweet potatoes are the ultimate comforting side dish.

3 medium sweet potatoes (about 8 ounces each), halved lengthwise2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons kosher salt ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons bourbon, divided1 cup chopped pecans1 cup pecan halves½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose fl our½ cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar½ teaspoon ground cinnamon⅔ cup unsalted butter, melted

1. Preheat oven to 400°.2. Rub potatoes with oil and salt. Place potatoes, cut side down, on a rimmed baking sheet. Brush with 2 tablespoons bourbon. 3. Bake until softened, 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool slightly. Leave oven on.4. Without cutting through skin, make a lengthwise slit down center of each potato half. Gently press apart at slits to open up potatoes slightly.5. In a medium bowl, stir together pecans, fl our, brown sugar, and cinnamon. 6. In a small bowl, stir together melted butter and remaining ¼ cup bourbon. Fold half of butter mixture into pecan mixture; reserve remaining butter mixture. Top each potato half with 1⁄3 cup pecan crumble.7. Bake until crumble is browned and aromatic, 10 to 15 minutes. Drizzle with reserved butter mixture, rewarming in microwave, if necessary.

HERB AND CHEESE BISCUITSMAKES 12

(photo on page 37)

Fresh rosemary and salty Parmesan give these buttermilk biscuits a fantastic fl avor.

4½ cups self-rising fl our1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed

½ cup chopped green onion⅓ cup shredded Parmesan cheese2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary1 cup cold whole buttermilk2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted¼ teaspoon garlic salt

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.2. In a large bowl, place fl our. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until mixture is crumbly; stir in green onion, cheese, and rosemary. Gradually add cold buttermilk, stirring just until dry ingredients are moistened.3. Turn out dough onto a lightly fl oured surface. Pat dough into a 12x6-inch rectangle, and cut into thirds. Stack portions on top of each other, and pat down into a rectangle again. Repeat procedure once. Pat or roll dough to 1-inch thickness. Using a 2½-inch round cutter dipped in fl our, cut dough without twisting cutter, rerolling scraps as necessary. Place biscuits 1 inch apart on prepared pan. Freeze until cold, about 10 minutes.4. In a small bowl, stir together melted butter and garlic salt; brush onto biscuits.5. Bake until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Brush with remaining garlic butter. Let cool on pan for 5 minutes. Serve warm.

WellSeasonedphotography by william dickey

recipe development by j.r. jacobson

food styling by kellie gerber kelley

styling by lucy fi nney

NO BAYOU STATE KITCHEN is

complete without a cast-iron pot or

skillet. Oft entimes, cast-iron cookware is

passed down through families, keeping

our culinary traditions alive from one

generation to the next. From gumbo and

jambalaya to cracklin’s and dirty rice,

many beloved Louisiana dishes begin in

these time-honored vessels. Here are a

few classic recipes with a twist to inspire

your cast iron cooking this winter.


WHITE BEANS WITH ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE

P. 46


BEEF DIRTY RICE

P. 46


PORK CRACKLIN’SMAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

We tossed these crispy cracklin’s with a spicy, slightly sweet seasoning blend.

1 pound skin-on pork belly4 cups lard or vegetable oilCracklin’ Spice (recipe follows)

1. On a cutting board, trim a thin layer of pork from bottom side of pork belly. Reserve for another use. Turn pork belly skin side up, and cut into 1-inch pieces.2. In a large cast-iron Dutch oven, heat lard or oil over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer

registers 250°. Add pork belly, stirring gently to prevent pieces from sticking together. (Adjust heat as necessary to maintain an oil temperature of 200° to 250°.) Cook, stirring frequently, until skin is blistered and golden brown, about25 minutes. Remove pork belly using a slotted spoon, and let drain on a paper towel-lined baking sheet. Let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour.3. Reheat lard or oil over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 375°. Fry pork belly in batches until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove pork belly using a slotted spoon, and let drain on a paper

towel-lined baking sheet. Immediately toss with Cracklin’ Spice.

CRACKLIN’ SPICE MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

¼ cup fi ne sea salt¼ cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar2 tablespoons garlic powder2 tablespoons ground ancho chile pepper 1 tablespoon onion powder1 tablespoon ground black pepper1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. In a small bowl, stir together all ingredients until well combined.


CHICKEN FRICASSEE MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This simple stewed chicken dish is sure to satisfy your comfort food cravings.

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose fl our, divided1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning, divided6 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs½ cup vegetable oil, divided1 small jalapeño, seeded and minced1 cup diced yellow onion1 cup diced green bell pepper½ cup diced celery1 tablespoon minced garlic3 cups chicken stock½ cup sour cream2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley1½ teaspoons kosher salt1 teaspoon hot sauce½ teaspoon ground black pepper⅓ cup chopped green onionHot cooked egg noodles, to serveGarnish: chopped fresh parsley

1. In a small bowl, stir together 1 tablespoon fl our and 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning. Sprinkle on both sides of chicken. 2. In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat ¼ cup oil over medium-high heat. Add chicken, skin side down. Cook until skin begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Turn chicken; cook for 5 minutes, adjusting heat as necessary to prevent burning. Remove from skillet; let drain on paper towels. 3. Reduce heat to medium; add remaining ¼ cup oil to skillet. Whisk in remaining ½ cup fl our. Cook, whisking constantly, until light brown and mixture has a nutty toasted aroma, 10 to 15 minutes. Add jalapeño, yellow onion, bell pepper, and celery; cook for 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and remaining 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning, and cook for 1 minute. Add stock in a slow, steady stream, stirring constantly; bring to a boil. Return chicken to skillet; return to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until an instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest portion of chicken registers 170°, about 45 minutes. 4. Remove from heat. Stir in sour cream, parsley, salt, hot sauce, and black pepper. Top with green onion. Serve with egg noodles. Garnish with parsley, if desired.

WHITE BEANS WITH ANDOUILLE SAUSAGEMAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

(photo on page 42)

Andouille sausage gives this dish smoky fl avor while sweet potato adds a hint of creamy texture.

10 cups water2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste1 pound great Northern beans, rinsed and sorted*2 tablespoons olive oil1 pound andouille sausage, cut diagonally crosswise into ¼-inch- thick slices2 cups cubed peeled sweet potato (about 1 medium sweet potato)1 cup diced yellow onion1 cup diced green bell pepper½ cup diced celery1 tablespoon minced garlic1 (32-ounce) container chicken stock 2 dried bay leaves2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves½ teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste2 tablespoon chopped fresh parsleyGarnish: chopped fresh parsley

1. In a large Dutch oven, bring 10 cups water and 2 tablespoons salt to a boil over high heat. Add beans; return to a boil, and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand for 1 hour. Drain, and rinse beans. Set aside. 2. In same pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add andouille; cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add sweet potato, onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic; cook, stirring frequently, until soft and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add stock. Stir in soaked beans, bay leaves, thyme, black pepper, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer until beans are tender, about 1 hour.3. Discard bay leaves. Place 1½ cups beans mixture in a blender; purée until smooth. Return to pot. Stir in parsley. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Garnish with parsley, if desired.

*We used Camellia Brand Great Northern Beans.

KITCHEN TIP Soaking the beans can be done the day before. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.

BEEF DIRTY RICEMAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

(photo on page 43)

Dirty rice is often made with chicken livers and ground beef. In this version, we doubled down on the beef by using beef liver.

4 ounces sliced beef liver½ cup whole buttermilk1 tablespoon olive oil 8 ounces ground beef1 cup beef stock, divided2 teaspoons kosher salt1 teaspoon ground black pepper1 cup diced yellow onion½ cup diced green bell pepper½ cup diced celery2 teaspoons minced garlic1 cup diced baby portobello mushrooms2 teaspoons minced fresh sage 2 cups cooked long-grain riceGarnish: fresh sage leaves

1. In a small bowl, place liver and buttermilk. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes. 2. Drain liver, discarding buttermilk; rinse, pat dry, and mince. 3. In a medium cast-iron Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add minced liver and ground beef; cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup stock, salt, and black pepper. Cook until liquid has evaporated, 5 to 6 minutes, allowing meat to get browned and crusty and stick slightly to bottom of pot. Scrape meat, and stir.4. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic to pot; cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are soft and fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in mushrooms, minced sage, and remaining ¾ cup stock. Add rice, stirring until liquid is absorbed and rice is heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Garnish with sage leaves, if desired.

KITCHEN TIP When cooking rice, substitute 1 cup water with beef stock for a richer fl avor.

photography by jim bathie

recipe development by j.r. jacobson

and anita simpson spain

food styling by kellie gerber kelley

styling by sidney bragiel

FIVE FILLING DISHES TO INCLUDE ON YOUR HOLIDAY

TABLE THIS YEAR

Casser oles

H ear twar mingHOLIDAY

SHRIMPPASTA BAKE

P. 53

COUCHE COUCHE WITH BACON AND JAM

P. 54


SPINACH MADELEINE

P. 54

CAJUN SQUASH CASSEROLE

P. 53


CRAWFISH CORNBREAD DRESSING

P. 53

3. In a large bowl, whisk together cornmeal, fl our, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. 4. In a medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, and eggs. Pour buttermilk mixture into cornmeal mixture; stir just until combined. Pour mixture into hot skillet.5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Invert cornbread onto a wire rack. Let cool for at least 20 minutes.

CAJUN SQUASH CASSEROLE MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

(photo on page 51)

We made this classic casserole even more irresistible by topping it with crushed potato chips.

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided10 cups ¼-inch-sliced yellow squash (about 2¾ pounds)½ teaspoon kosher salt1 cup diced red onion1 cup chopped red bell pepper3 cloves garlic, minced2 cups shredded Colby-Jack cheese, divided¾ cup sour cream½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese2 tablespoons chopped green onion1 teaspoon hot sauce*½ teaspoon Cajun seasoning*½ teaspoon smoked paprika1½ cups lightly crushed Zapp’s Voodoo Kettle Style Potato ChipsGarnish: chopped green onion

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 2-quart baking dish with cooking spray.2. In a large Dutch oven, heat 3 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add squash, and sprinkle with salt; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Uncover and cook until most of liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Transfer squash to a colander set over a large bowl; let drain for 5 minutes. Discard any liquid.3. In same pot, melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add red onion and bell pepper; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes.

CRAWFISH CORNBREAD DRESSING MAKES 12 SERVINGS

This hearty side starts with our tender Buttermilk Cornbread and features spicy Louisiana crawfi sh tails.

1 tablespoon olive oil2 cups diced sweet onion1 cup diced green bell pepper1 cup diced celery2 cloves garlic, minced1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme10 cups 1-inch-cubed Buttermilk Cornbread (recipe follows)1 pound crawfi sh tails, rinsed and drained 2 cups chicken broth2 large eggs, lightly beaten1 teaspoon poultry seasoning1½ teaspoons kosher salt¾ teaspoon ground black pepper¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper Garnish: chopped fresh thyme

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a 13x9-inch baking dish with cooking spray.2. In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, bell pepper, and celery; cook, stirring frequently, until almost tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and thyme; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.3. In a large bowl, place Buttermilk Cornbread; crumble half of cubes. Stir in onion mixture, crawfi sh, broth, eggs, poultry seasoning, salt, black pepper, and red pepper. Spoon into prepared pan. Cover with foil. 4. Bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes more. Garnish with thyme, if desired.

BUTTERMILK CORNBREADMAKES 1 (12-INCH) LOAF

3 cups plain yellow cornmeal1 cup all-purpose fl our2 teaspoons baking powder2 teaspoons kosher salt1 teaspoon baking soda3 cups whole buttermilk¾ cup unsalted butter, melted3 large eggs

1. Preheat oven to 425°. 2. Place a 12-inch cast-iron skillet in oven for 10 minutes.

Add garlic; cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute.4. In a large bowl, stir together ¾ cupColby-Jack, sour cream, Parmesan, green onion, hot sauce, Cajun seasoning, and paprika. Stir in squash and red onion mixture. Transfer mixture to prepared pan; sprinkle with remaining 1¼ cups Colby-Jack.5. Bake until cheese is melted and fi lling is bubbly, about 20 minutes. Top with potato chips. Garnish with green onion, if desired.

*We used Crystal Hot Sauce and Slap Ya Mama Original Cajun Seasoning.

SHRIMP PASTA BAKEMAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

(photo on page 48)

This pasta bake is fi lled with fresh shrimp, butternut squash, caulifl ower, and kale.

¼ cup unsalted butter1 medium butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes (about 2 cups)1½ cups sliced caulifl ower fl orets1 cup chopped sweet onion1 cup chopped yellow bell pepper½ cup sliced celery3 cups chicken broth, divided⅔ cup all-purpose fl our1½ pounds peeled and deveined large fresh shrimp8 ounces penne pasta, cooked according to package directions for al dente3 cups chopped stemmed fresh lacinato kale¼ cup heavy whipping cream2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley¾ teaspoon garlic salt½ teaspoon ground black pepperGarnish: fresh sage leaves, fresh parsley leaves

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a shallow 13x9-inch baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add squash, caulifl ower, onion, bell pepper, and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 cups broth. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer until vegetables are tender, 4 to 5 minutes.


3. In a small bowl, whisk together fl our and remaining 1 cup broth. Stir fl our mixture into squash mixture. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Stir in shrimp, pasta, kale, cream, chopped sage, chopped parsley, garlic salt, and black pepper. Pour into prepared pan.4. Bake until bubbly, 20 to 25 minutes. Just before serving, garnish with sage leaves and parsley leaves, if desired.

COUCHE COUCHE WITH BACON AND JAMMAKES 4 SERVINGS

(photo on page 49)

This skillet casserole is a rustic Cajun breakfast that is easy to whip up on busy holiday mornings.

4 slices bacon2 cups plain yellow cornmeal1½ teaspoons baking powder1 teaspoon fi rmly packed light brown sugar¾ teaspoon kosher salt¾ cup water¾ cup half-and-half, plus more to serve1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted1 teaspoon cane syrupJam or preserves, to serve

1. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove from heat. Remove bacon using a slotted spatula, and let drain on paper towels, reserving 4 tablespoons drippings in skillet. Let bacon cool enough to handle; chop.2. In a medium bowl, whisk together cornmeal, baking powder, brown sugar, and salt. 3. In a large bowl, stir together ¾ cup water, half-and-half, melted butter, and cane syrup. Stir in cornmeal mixture just until combined. 4. Heat reserved bacon drippings over medium-high heat. Carefully pour batter into skillet. Cook until a crust begins to form on bottom of batter, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a wooden spatula, quickly scrape crust, and stir into cornmeal mixture. (If crust sticks, sprinkle mixture with a few tablespoons of water.) Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until tender, 12 to 15 minutes, scraping

crust occasionally. (Mixture should resemble crumbled cornbread.) Top with bacon. Transfer to serving bowls. Serve with a splash of half-and-half for a moister consistency. Serve with jam or preserves.

SPINACH MADELEINEMAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

(photo on page 50)

This is our take on spinach Madeleine, a beloved Louisiana side dish that fi rst appeared in the Junior League of Baton Rouge’s cookbook River Road Recipes.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil¾ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)Pinch kosher salt3 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped spinach¼ cup unsalted butter6 tablespoons chopped sweet onion 3 cloves garlic, minced¼ cup all-purpose fl our¾ cup half-and-half 6 ounces processed cheese product*, cubed1 small jalapeño, seeded and diced (about 1 tablespoon)1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning*1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce½ teaspoon hot sauce*

1. In a small skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add bread crumbs and salt; cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside.2. Prepare spinach according to package directions. Place cooked spinach in a colander over a bowl, and press to drain thoroughly. Reserve ½ cup drained spinach juices. Set aside.3. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute. Sprinkle fl our over onion mixture; cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low, and stir in reserved spinach juices and half-and-half. Cook, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Add cheese product, jalapeño, Creole seasoning, Worcestershire, and hot sauce, stirring until cheese is melted and smooth. Stir in drained spinach, and cook just until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish. Top with toasted bread crumbs just before serving.

*We used Velveeta, Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning, and Crystal Hot Sauce.


FOR THE HOLIDAYSOYSTER PASTA: ELEGANCE IS SERVED

by george graham, acadianatable.com

George Graham’s Fresh from Louisiana is the second cookbook from this award-winning author, blogger, and photographer. Published by Harvard Common Press, the book contains more than 100 recipes and full-color photographs of Cajun and Creole cooking. It is available online or at booksellers everywhere. Signed copies are available at AcadianaTable.com.

HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING IN LOUISIANA

is a time to splurge, and nothing is more

elegant than an oyster-laden pasta dish.

Perfect for a dinner party entrée or a buff et table, my

go-to recipe is a white-sauce version, rich and delicate

to build a stage for its star ingredients. And it comes

straight from the pages of my new cookbook, Fresh from Louisiana: Th e Soul of Cajun and Creole Home Cooking(Harvard Common Press, 2020).

For my Oyster Pasta, I start with briny Louisiana

oysters from coastal Gulf waters, and I go straight to the

source to ensure quality. Th e Louisiana Direct Seafood

website (louisianadirectseafood.com) is a free program of

Louisiana Sea Grant and LSU Ag Center that connects

consumers directly with dozens of coastal fi shermen.

Listings provide contact information for fi shermen

and their week’s catch—shrimp, crab, grouper, snapper,

crawfi sh, wild-caught catfi sh, and oysters. You can search

regionally and fi nd out when and where the catch is

arriving at the dock. It’s the best way I know to fi nd the

freshest seafood available and know that I am helping

support the hardworking fi shing family who caught it.

So, with a fresh supply of Gulf oysters, I can layer

the fl avors. Smoky andouille builds the lower bass notes

while fresh spinach leaves elevate the elegance of this

Creole recipe. Heavy cream and a sprinkling of freshly

grated Parmigiano-

Reggiano cheese bring it

together and translate it

into one spectacular dish.

I suggest serving this

with holiday splendor—

your best china, crystal

goblets, and chilled

Champagne. And, of

course, a kiss under the

mistletoe for the cook.

FRESH CATCH


OYSTER PASTAMAKES 4 SERVINGS

The briny fl avor of Louisiana oysters shines in this creamy pasta dish.

3 quarts water½ cup kosher salt, plus more to taste1 (16-ounce) package pappardelle pasta or wide pasta noodles2 tablespoons vegetable oil2 cups sliced andouille sausage 1 cup diced yellow onion (about ½ medium onion)½ cup diced celery (about 1 large stalk)½ cup diced red bell pepper (about ½ large bell pepper)½ cup diced yellow bell pepper (about ½ large bell pepper)2 cups stemmed fresh spinach leaves½ cup dry white wine2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary1 tablespoon minced garlic

4 cups heavy whipping cream1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning Dash hot sauce1 pint (16 ounces) Louisiana Gulf oysters, liquor reserved½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese½ cup diced green onion (green parts only)Crusty French bread, to serve

1. In a large stockpot, bring 3 quarts water and salt to a boil over high heat. Add pasta, and cook until just al dente, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat, and drain. Set aside.2. In a large saucepan with a tight-fi tting lid, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add andouille, yellow onion, celery, and bell peppers, and cook until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add spinach, wine, rosemary, and garlic. Let alcohol burn off as spinach begins to wilt. Stir in cream. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes.

3. Uncover and stir. (Spinach should be wilted, and cream should have begun to reduce.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened and large bubbles begin to appear, about 20 minutes. Add Cajun seasoning and hot sauce. Turn off heat until ready to serve.4. Chop half of oysters. Just before serving, heat cream sauce over medium-low heat just until bubbles form around edges of pan; add oysters and ¼ cup reserved oyster liquor. Gently cook until oysters are delicately poached and edges begin to curl and wrinkle, about 5 minutes. Add pasta, and cook until pasta is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in cheese and green onion. Turn off heat. Season to taste with salt. Serve in shallow bowls with crusty French bread for dipping.

photography by jim bathie | recipe development by tricia manzanero and taylor franklin wann

food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by mary beth jones

SIX STUNNING CREATIONS TO SWEETEN YOUR HOLIDAY SEASON

Desserts

RED VELVETROULADE

P. 63


SATSUMA-CRANBERRYBUNDT CAKE

P. 64

ON OURCover

PEANUT BUTTERCHOCOLATE

BREAD PUDDING

P. 63


PUMPKIN BREAD WITH MOLASSES PRALINE CARAMELMAKES 1 (8½X4½-INCH) LOAF

This pumpkin bread is fl ecked with chopped pecans and generously drizzled with a praline-inspired molasses caramel sauce.

1½ cups canned pumpkin¾ cup granulated sugar½ cup fi rmly packed dark brown sugar½ cup vegetable oil¼ cup unsulphured molasses1 teaspoon vanilla extract2 cups all-purpose fl our1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice2 teaspoons baking powder1 teaspoon kosher salt⅓ cup chopped pecansConfectioners’ sugar, for dusting Molasses Praline Caramel (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8½x4½-inch loaf pan with baking spray with fl our.2. In a large bowl, stir together pumpkin, granulated sugar, brown sugar, oil, molasses, and vanilla. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together fl our, pie spice, baking powder, and salt. Add fl our mixture to pumpkin mixture, stirring to combine. Fold in pecans. Pour batter into prepared pan. 4. Bake for 45 minutes. Cover with foil, and bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 15 minutes more. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. Dust with confectioners’ sugar; top with Molasses Praline Caramel.

MOLASSES PRALINE CARAMELMAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS

½ cup fi rmly packed dark brown sugar½ cup water½ cup unsulphured molasses4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed¼ cup warm heavy whipping cream ⅓ cup chopped toasted pecans½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a 2-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together brown sugar, ½ cup water, and molasses until smooth. Add butter. Cook over medium heat, stirring gently, until butter is melted and mixture begins to boil. Cook, without stirring, until an instant-read thermometer registers 245˚ to 250˚, 12 to 17 minutes.

Remove from heat. Add warm cream, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking until combined after each addition. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in pecans and salt; remove from heat. Let cool slightly before serving. If caramel cools completely, it will thicken. Simply reheat it to loosen, if needed.

MILK PUNCH PANNA COTTAMAKES 6 SERVINGS

The milk punch fl avor profi le of this panna cotta is perfect for the holidays and especially delicious topped with fresh sliced strawberries.

1 cup half-and-half, divided1 (0.25-ounce) envelope unfl avored gelatin⅓ cup sugar½ teaspoon kosher salt2 cups heavy whipping cream1½ tablespoons bourbon2 teaspoons vanilla extract¼ teaspoon ground nutmegSliced fresh strawberries, to serveGarnish: ground nutmeg

1. In a wide medium bowl, place ¼ cup half-and-half. Sprinkle gelatin evenly

over half-and-half; let stand until gelatin granules are moistened, 30 to 35 minutes. (Top of gelatin mixture will appear wrinkled.)2. In a medium saucepan, place remaining ¾ cup half-and-half; cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until steaming. (Do not boil.) Whisk in gelatin mixture. Cook over low heat, whisking frequently, until gelatin completely dissolves, 2 to 5 minutes, removing from heat if needed to prevent mixture from simmering or boiling. (Mixture should feel smooth when rubbed between two fi ngers.)3. Add sugar and salt to half-and-half mixture, stirring to combine. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until sugar and salt dissolve, 2 to 3 minutes, removing from heat if needed to prevent mixture from simmering or boiling. (Mixture should

feel smooth when rubbed between two fi ngers.) Remove from heat; whisk in cream, bourbon, vanilla, and nutmeg.4. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Using a fi ne-mesh sieve, strain half-and-half mixture into a medium metal bowl; place bowl in prepared ice bath, and stir until an instant-read thermometer registers 70°.5. Divide cooled half-and-half mixture evenly among 6 small serving glasses (about ½ cup mixture in each glass); refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 4 hours*. Top with sliced strawberries just before serving. Garnish with nutmeg, if desired.

*Panna cottas that are refrigerated for longer than 4 hours may boast a slightly fi rmer texture.


CITRUS PECAN PIEMAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE

The sweet-tart fl avor of Louisiana citrus shines in this pecan pie.

Cream Cheese Pie Dough (recipe follows)1 cup fi rmly packed dark brown sugar¾ cup light corn syrup½ cup unsalted butter, melted4 large eggs, divided1¼ teaspoons orange zest, divided1 tablespoon fresh orange juice1 teaspoon lemon zest1 teaspoon vanilla extract¼ teaspoon kosher salt2 cups pecan halves½ cup heavy whipping cream¼ cup confectioners’ sugarGarnish: orange zest twists

1. Position oven rack in bottom third of oven. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. On a lightly fl oured surface, roll Cream Cheese Pie Dough into a 12-inch circle (⅛ inch thick). Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into bottom and up sides. Fold edges under, and crimp, if desired. Refrigerate until ready to use.3. In a medium bowl, whisk together brown sugar, corn syrup, melted butter, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon orange zest, orange juice, lemon zest, vanilla, and salt. Gently stir in pecans. Pour into prepared crust. 4. In a small bowl, beat remaining 1 egg until foamy; brush crust with egg. 5. Bake for 40 minutes. Loosely cover with foil, and bake until fi llingis slightly jiggly in center, 20 to 25 minutes more. Let cool completely on a wire rack.6. In a medium bowl, beat cream, confectioners’ sugar, and remaining ¼ teaspoon orange zest with a mixer at medium speed until soft peaks form. Serve pie with whipped cream. Garnish with orange zest twists, if desired.

CREAM CHEESE PIE DOUGHMAKES DOUGH FOR 1 (9-INCH) PIE

1½ cups all-purpose fl our¼ teaspoon baking powder¼ teaspoon kosher salt3 ounces cold cream cheese, cubed 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed

½ teaspoon orange zest½ teaspoon lemon zest3 tablespoons cold water1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1. In the work bowl of a food processor, place fl our, baking powder, and salt; pulse to combine. Add cold cream cheese; pulse until mixture is crumbly. Add cold butter and zests; pulse 4 times. 2. In a small bowl, combine 3 tablespoons cold water and vinegar.

Pour vinegar mixture through food chute in a slow, steady stream, pulsing until butter is pea-size and dough holds together when pinched, about 6 times. 3. Turn out dough onto a clean work surface, and knead into a ball. Shape into a disk, and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 1 hour or up to 3 days. If refrigerating for longer than 1 hour, let dough stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before rolling.

RED VELVET ROULADEMAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

The delicate cocoa fl avor of this red velvet cake is complemented by the touch of peppermint in the frosting.

4 large eggs, room temperature and separated⅓ cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar ⅔ cup all-purpose fl our ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ½ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda¼ teaspoon kosher salt3½ tablespoons whole buttermilk, room temperature 1 (1-ounce) bottle red liquid food coloring*1½ teaspoons vanilla extract 1 teaspoon espresso powder ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup confectioners’ sugar Peppermint Buttercream (recipe follows)Garnish: crushed peppermint candies

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a 14½x9½-inch jelly roll pan with baking spray with fl our. Line pan with parchment paper; spray parchment.2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fi tted with the paddle attachment, beat egg yolks at medium speed for 3 minutes. Add brown sugar, and beat until mixture is thick and pale and falls in ribbons, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer egg yolk mixture to a large bowl.3. In a medium bowl, sift together fl our, cocoa, baking powder, and baking soda. Whisk in salt. Set aside.4. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, food coloring, vanilla, and espresso powder until well combined and espresso granules dissolve. 5. Add fl our mixture to egg yolk mixture alternately with buttermilk mixture, beginning and ending with fl our mixture, folding just until combined after each addition.6. Clean bowl of stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, beat egg whites at medium speed until foamy. With mixer on medium speed, add granulated sugar in a slow, steady stream, stopping to scrape sides of bowl; increase mixer speed to medium-high, and beat until medium-stiff peaks form. Fold egg whites into

batter in three additions until no streaks remain. Quickly spread batter into prepared pan; gently shake pan a few times to evenly spread batter. (Do not overwork batter or it will defl ate.)7. Bake until cake pulls away from sides of pan and springs back when lightly touched in center, 8 to 12 minutes.8. Meanwhile, using a fi ne-mesh sieve, sift confectioners’ sugar onto a clean, thin kitchen towel. Immediately loosen cake from sides of pan, if needed; turn out onto prepared towel so short side of cake is nearly fl ush with short side of towel. Gently peel off and discard parchment paper. Starting at short side fl ush with towel edge, roll up cake and towel together, and place, seam side down, on a wire rack. Let cool completely.9. Gently unroll cake; brush away any excess confectioners’ sugar. Using a small off set spatula, spread 1½ cups Peppermint Buttercream over top of cake, leaving a ½-inch border. Reroll cake without towel. (It’s OK if thin patches of cake’s outer layer stick to towel.) Transfer cake, seam side down, to a serving plate. Spread remaining buttercream on outside of cake, leaving ends exposed, swirling with the back of a spoon. Garnish with crushed peppermint, if desired. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.

*We used McCormick Red Food Color.

Note: The cake may stain your kitchen towel a bit.

PEPPERMINT BUTTERCREAMMAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

1 cup unsalted butter, softened¼ teaspoon kosher salt3½ cups confectioners’ sugar4 tablespoons whole buttermilk½ teaspoon peppermint extract

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fi tted with the paddle attachment, beat butter and salt at medium speed until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually add confectioners’ sugar alternately with buttermilk, beating until combined. Add peppermint extract; increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until fl uff y, about 2 minutes. Use immediately.

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDINGMAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

(photo on page 59)

The unbeatable fl avor combination of peanut butter and chocolate is delightful in this cozy bread pudding.

1 (1-pound) loaf challah bread, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 10 cups)4 cups half-and-half ¾ cup unsalted butter, cubed1 cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar½ cup granulated sugar5 large eggs, lightly beaten½ cup creamy peanut butter½ teaspoon kosher salt1¼ cups semisweet chocolate chips, divided½ cup salted roasted peanutsPeanut Butter Sauce (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Butter a 13x9-inch baking dish.2. In a large bowl, toss together bread cubes and half-and-half. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes.3. In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Stir in sugars until combined. Remove from heat. Let cool for 5 minutes. Whisk in eggs; whisk in peanut butter and salt until combined. Pour over bread mixture. Add 1 cup chocolate chips and peanuts, gently folding to combine. Spoon bread mixture into prepared pan. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup chocolate chips. Cover with foil.4. Bake for 50 minutes. Uncover and bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted near center comes out clean, 10 to 15 minutes more. Serve warm or at room temperature with Peanut Butter Sauce.

PEANUT BUTTER SAUCEMAKES 1½ CUPS

¼ cup unsalted butter½ cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar¼ cup creamy peanut butter¼ cup milk chocolate chips¼ teaspoon kosher salt⅔ cup half-and-half


1. In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Whisk in brown sugar, peanut butter, chocolate chips, and salt until dissolved. Whisk in half-and-half, and bring to a boil; cook for 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl, and let cool completely. Use immediately, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

SATSUMA-CRANBERRY BUNDT CAKEMAKES 1 (10-CUP) BUNDT CAKE

(photo on page 58)

Our cover star has a velvety texture, with just the right balance of tart and sweet fl avors.

¾ cup unsalted butter, softened1½ cups granulated sugar, divided¼ cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar3 large eggs, room temperature4 teaspoons lightly packed satsuma zest (about 7 small satsumas)⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh satsuma juice (6 to 7 small satsumas), divided2½ cups plus 2 teaspoons all-purpose fl our, divided2½ teaspoons baking powder1 teaspoon kosher salt¾ cup whole buttermilk, room temperature1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste½ teaspoon almond extract2 cups frozen cranberries, thawed, drained, halved, and patted dry Buttermilk Glaze (recipe follows)Garnish: sugared cranberries*, satsuma zest strips

1. Preheat oven to 350°.2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fi tted with the paddle attachment, beat butter, 1¼ cups granulated sugar, and brown sugar at low speed just until combined. Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until fl uff y, about 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Beat in satsuma zest and 1 tablespoon satsuma juice. (Mixture may look slightly curdled at this point, but batter will come together.)

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together 2½ cups fl our, baking powder, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, vanilla bean paste, and almond extract. With mixer on low speed, add fl our mixture to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk mixture, beginning and ending with fl our mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. 4. In a medium bowl, toss together frozen cranberries and remaining 2 teaspoons fl our; fold cranberry mixture into batter.5. Spray a 10-cup Bundt pan with baking spray with fl our. Spoon batter into prepared pan; forcefully tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter several times to settle batter and release any air bubbles.6. Bake until a wooden pick inserted near center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes; using a small off set spatula, gently loosen center and edges of cake from pan. Invert cake onto a wire rack placed over a rimmed baking sheet.7. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining ⅓ cup orange juice and remaining ¼ cup granulated sugar. Generously brush juice mixture all over warm cake. Let cake cool completely.8. Using a small spoon, drizzle and spread Buttermilk Glaze onto cooled cake. Garnish with sugared cranberries and satsuma zest strips, if desired. Serve with any extra glaze.

*To make sugared cranberries, combine ¼ cup granulated sugar and ¼ cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil; cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves; remove from heat, and let cool completely. Working in batches if needed, coat cranberries thoroughly in sugar syrup; remove and let stand on a wire rack placed over a large rimmed baking sheet for 45 minutes. Roll cranberries in granulated sugar, coating well on all sides and shaking off excess. Use immediately.

BUTTERMILK GLAZEMAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP

1½ cups confectioners’ sugar 3 tablespoons whole buttermilk1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted¾ teaspoon vanilla bean paste¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients until smooth and well combined. Use immediately.

ggIFTFTssfrom the Kitchen

HOMEMADE GIFTS ARE THE BEST KIND, ESPECIALLY IF THEY’RE EDIBLE! THESE DELICIOUS GOODIES MAKE THOUGHTFUL GIFTS FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST.

SALTED PECAN TOFFEE

P. 70


1 egg white1 tablespoon herbes de Provence 1 tablespoon garlic powder½ tablespoon sea salt1 teaspoon ground sage½ teaspoon smoked paprika½ teaspoon ground black pepper¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper4 cups raw mixed nuts

1. Preheat oven to 300°. Line a baking sheet with foil. 2. In a large bowl, whisk egg white until foamy. Add herbes de Provence, garlic powder, salt, sage, paprika, and peppers. Fold in nuts. Spread onto prepared pan.3. Bake for 30 minutes, stirring halfway through baking. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

SPICED NUT MIXMAKES 4 CUPS

Spiced nuts are great to have on hand for last-minute gifts. This mix is infused with a savory herb blend for extra fl avor.


INFUSED HONEYMAKES 1 (6- TO 8-OUNCE) JAR

This honey only gets better with time. Enjoy it swirled over warm biscuits.

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved5 whole cloves1 teaspoon orange zest6 to 8 ounces honey

1. Sterilize a 6- to 8-ounce glass jar (and a tight-fi tting lid) in simmering water for 10 minutes. Let dry. 2. Place vanilla bean and reserved seeds, cloves, and orange zest in jar. Top with honey. Secure lid. Rotate jar

to evenly disperse ingredients. Store in a cool, dry place for up to 6 months.

HUMMINGBIRD CAKE TRUFFLESMAKES ABOUT 36

These truffl es are creamy, smooth, and perfectly sweet.

1 (11-ounce) bag white chocolate chips10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed6 tablespoons heavy whipping cream½ cup toasted pecans, fi nely chopped½ cup fi nely chopped dried pineapple1½ cups sweetened fl aked coconut

1. In a medium microwave-safe bowl, combine white chocolate chips, butter, and cream. Heat on medium in 1-minute intervals, stirring between each, until almost melted (about 2 minutes total). Whisk until mixture is completely smooth. Stir in pecans and pineapple. Pour into a 9-inch pie plate. Refrigerate until fi rm but not solid, about 1½ hours. 2. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.3. Using a 1-inch spring-loaded scoop, scoop white chocolate mixture into balls, and place on prepared pan. Freeze until set, about 15 minutes.4. Using your hands, roll balls to smooth edges. Roll in coconut. Cover and refrigerate for up to 10 days. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

CHOCOLATE-BOURBON TRUFFLESMAKES ABOUT 30

Customize these chocolate truffl es with your favorite liqueur.

1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips1 cup semisweet chocolate chips¾ cup heavy whipping cream1 tablespoon unsalted butter3 tablespoons bourbon½ teaspoon vanilla extract2 cups toasted pecans, chopped

1. In a medium microwave-safe bowl, combine chocolate chips, cream, and butter. Heat on medium in 1-minute intervals, stirring between each, until almost melted (about 2 minutes and 15 seconds total). Whisk until mixture is completely smooth. Whisk in bourbon and vanilla. Pour into a 9-inch pie plate. Refrigerate until fi rm but not solid, about 1½ hours. 2. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. 3. Using a 1-inch spring-loaded scoop, scoop chocolate mixture into balls, and place on prepared pan. Freeze until set, about 15 minutes.4. Using your hands, roll balls to smooth edges. Roll in pecans. Cover and refrigerate for up to 10 days. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.


ORANGE AND VANILLA BEAN SOFT CARAMELSMAKES ABOUT 48

Cooking caramel in an enamel-coated Dutch oven allows the fi nished mixture to easily pour out without leaving a sticky mess behind.

2 cups heavy whipping cream, divided1½ cups light corn syrup1 cup granulated sugar1 cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar1 cup unsalted butter½ teaspoon orange extract1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved

1. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan. Spray with cooking spray.2. In a 5-quart enamel-coated cast-iron Dutch oven, bring 1 cup cream, corn syrup, sugars, and butter to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add remaining 1 cup cream, stirring to combine. Cook, without stirring, until a candy thermometer registers 248˚. Remove from heat. Add orange extract and reserved vanilla bean seeds, stirring to combine. Pour into prepared pan. Refrigerate overnight. 3. Let caramel stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Using excess parchment as handles, remove from pan; using a greased knife, cut into 1¼x½-inch rectangles. Wrap caramels in wax paper squares. Store at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.



PECAN PRALINESMAKES ABOUT 16

Pralines are a beloved New Orleans treat. Delight your friends and family with these timeless pecan-fi lled treats.

2 cups fi rmly packed light brown sugar½ cup heavy whipping cream¼ teaspoon baking soda2 cups pecan halves2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed1 teaspoon vanilla extractGarnish: fl aked sea salt

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In a 3½-quart enamel-coated cast-iron Dutch oven, bring brown sugar, cream, and baking soda to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until a candy thermometer registers 240°. Remove from heat; quickly stir in pecans, butter, and vanilla. Quickly drop mixture onto prepared pan by spoonfuls. Garnish with salt,

if desired. (The mixture should be a little easier to work with since the Dutch oven helps retain heat.) Let stand until hardened, about 10 minutes. Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

SALTED PECAN TOFFEEMAKES ABOUT 48 PIECES

(photo on page 65)

With a deep caramel fl avor and salty fi nish, this toff ee will melt in your mouth without sticking to your teeth.

3 cups sugar3 cups unsalted butter1⁄2 cup water2 teaspoons vanilla extract3 cups toasted pecan halves2 (10-ounce) bags dark chocolate melting wafersGarnish: fl aked sea salt

1. Line 2 (13x9-inch) rimmed baking sheets or 1 (18x13-inch) rimmed baking sheet with heavy-duty foil.

2. In a 6-quart heavy-bottomed stainless steel stockpot, combine sugar, butter, 1⁄2 cup water, and vanilla over medium heat; cook, without stirring, until a candy thermometer registers 280°, 35 to 40 minutes. (Mixture will bubble up signifi cantly at fi rst and settle as it continues to cook.) Cook, whisking constantly, until candy thermometer registers 305°, about 6 minutes. (Watch closely after it registers 290°, as temperature will increase rapidly.) Stir in pecans. Pour mixture into prepared pan(s). Let cool at room temperature until hardened. Refrigerate for 1 hour.3. In a large, microwave-safe bowl, heat chocolate in 30-second intervals, stirring between each, until melted. Spread melted chocolate over cooled toff ee; let cool for 5 minutes. Garnish with salt, if desired. Let stand at room temperature until chocolate is set. Break or cut into pieces. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

PEARLS OF THE GULF OUR TOP EIGHT PICKS FOR ALL THINGS OYSTER

THROUGHOUT THE BAYOU STATE

t’s offi cially oyster season in Louisiana, and we couldn’t be more excited. Th ough

oysters are technically available year-round in the Bayou State, it’s during the colder

fall and winter months that these briny bivalves achieve their peak fl avor and texture.

Oysters taste like the water in which they were grown; as such, Louisiana oysters benefi t

from a mix of fresh water and salt water that combines to produce a sweet yet salty fl avor

and fi rm, meaty texture.

For those who love raw oysters, Louisiana is home to countless seafood joints and

oyster bars off ering oysters on the half shell ready to be slurped down with cocktail sauce,

a splash of hot sauce, or no accompaniments at all. Beyond eating them raw, there are

many other ways to enjoy Louisiana oysters. Whether they’re fried and piled on French

bread for po’ boys, broiled with an anise-scented mixture of herbs and bread crumbs for

oysters Rockefeller (a dish that was created at Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans), or

grilled over an open fl ame with garlic butter and cheese, there’s really no wrong way to

indulge in plump, salty oysters.

From New Orleans to Lake Charles, we narrowed down eight spots that off er some

of the Bayou State’s best oyster dishes. Th is list highlights a few of our favorite places for

raw and chargrilled oysters, plus a few that off er unexpected yet delicious preparations.

Th e next time an oyster craving hits, check out one of these restaurants and savor the

delightful fl avor of Louisiana oysters.

I


NEYOW’S

New Orleans

You’ll smell the tantalizing aroma of grilled oysters as soon as you enter Chef Tanya Dubuclet’s neighborhood restaurant in Mid-City, which moved to a roomier building next door to its original location in 2016. The oyster grill is prominently situated at the end of the bar in full view of the dining room. Doused with butter, garlic, cheese, and herbs, an order (or two) of Char-Grilled Oysters is the ideal way to start any meal at Neyow’s. Wash them down with a signature Bow Wow punch and round out your meal with one of Neyow’s popular daily specials. neyows.com

1

FREMIN’S RESTAURANT

Thibodaux

Located in a historic building in downtown Thibodaux, Fremin’s Restaurant off ers an upscale yet relaxed dining experience with fl avors from local traditions and Italian cuisine. One of the most popular dishes is the Chargrilled Oysters, which arrives at your table on a sizzling cast-iron platter. The oysters, which are basted with a rich herb-butter sauce and broiled with freshly grated Parmesan cheese, are served with lemon wedges for squeezing and French bread. fremins.net

2

121 ARTISAN BISTRO

Lake Charles

This modern, family-friendly eatery in downtown Lake Charles bills itself as primarily Italian but with a southwest Louisiana fl air. On Chef Ben Herrera’s menu, you’ll fi nd classic Italian dishes, stone hearth-cooked steaks, fresh seafood specials, and Louisiana-inspired cuisine. For starters, you’ll want to order the Flash Fried Oysters, perched atop a silky brown meuniére sauce and topped with Louisiana jumbo lump crabmeat. The salty oysters and sweet crabmeat make a lovely pairing with the rich browned butter sauce. 121artisanbistro.com

4

BANH MI BOYS

Metairie

At this Metairie sandwich shop, chef-owner Peter Nguyen blends the fl avors of southeast Louisiana and Southeast Asia with traditional banh mi, New Orleans-style po’ boys, and more. Though Banh Mi Boys is best known for its namesake sandwiches, served on fl aky Golden Bakery bread, its loaded fries have also become a customer favorite. Don’t miss the Oyster Rockefeller Fries, topped with fried oysters and creamy Rockefeller sauce. bmbsandwiches.com

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Felix’s, which has been a staple of the French Quarter for more than 70 years, claims to have put the New Orleans oyster bar on the map. In addition to its original location, today, Felix’s has expanded its French Quarter location and

has three additional outposts, in Gulfport, Mississippi, and on the New Orleans Lakefront and the Northshore. In addition to dishing out freshly shucked oysters, Felix’s off ers a variety of cooked preparations on the half shell, including Char-Grilled Oysters, Buff alo Oysters, Oysters Bienville, and Oysters Rockefeller. If you like your oysters fried, try the Fried Oyster Platter or Oyster Po-Boy. felixs.com

FELIX’S RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR

New Orleans5


MOSCA’S RESTAURANT

Westwego

Family-owned and -operated since 1946, Mosca’s is known for hearty Creole-Italian dishes, which are served family-style and prepared to order. One of the restaurant’s signature dishes is Oysters Mosca, a decadent appetizer of oysters baked withMosca’s special Italian seasoning and breadcrumbs. The beloved dish was created by original owners Provino and Lisa Mosca and remains a fi xture of the menu. moscasrestaurant.com

CASAMENTO’S

New Orleans

This oyster bar, which turned 100 last year, attracts a steady stream of regulars who watch oysters being shucked as they wait for a table. Casamento’s is famous for its Oyster Loaf, a sandwich with fried oysters between thick slices of “pan bread” (the restaurant’s version of Texas toast). You can order it dressed with lettuce and tomato, though some insist all it needs is a little hot sauce and a squeeze of lemon. casamentosrestaurant.com

6 PHIL’S OYSTER BAR &

SEAFOOD Baton Rouge

Phil’s Oyster Bar has been a staple of Government Street for decades. Currently operated by partners Anthony Piazza and Chef Peter Sclafani, Phil’s opened in 1945 as a seafood market and expanded into a full-service restaurant fi ve years later. Today, the menu features Louisiana staples and fresh seafood, including raw and charbroiled oysters harvested in Hopedale. Each order of oysters is served with one of Phil’s signature sauces. philsoysterbar.com

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BY T H E BOO KSW E E TS

GOURMET GIFT

FOR A HOMEMADE TREAT that doesn’t require much eff ort, chocolate bark

is one of our go-tos. One of the best parts about it is that you can personalize

it to your recipients’ tastes. In this recipe, we added cayenne pepper and chili

powder for a bit of spice, pretzels for a salty crunch, and dried cranberries and

pistachios for a festive appearance. But you shouldn’t feel limited to these mix-ins;

you can use whatever ingredients you already have in your pantry, such as nuts,

seeds, dried fruits, or crushed candy canes. Th e sky is the limit when it comes

to the variations you can make. Present your chocolate bark in cookie tins or

cellophane bags tied with pretty ribbon for easy gift ing.

photography by stephanie welbourne steele | food styling by kathleen kanen

SWEET AND SPICY CHOCOLATE BARKMAKES ABOUT 32 PIECES (1½ POUNDS)

Cayenne pepper and chili powder give this chocolate bark a delightfully spicy kick.

2 (10-ounce) packages dark chocolate melting wafers*1 cup coarsely crushed pretzel sticks, divided ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon chili powder½ cup chopped dried cranberries¼ cup chopped salted pistachios

1. Line a 13x9-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.2. In a large microwave-safe bowl, melt chocolate melting wafers according to package directions. Stir in ¾ cup pretzels, cayenne, and chili powder. Spread onto prepared pan. Sprinkle with cranberries, pistachios, and remaining ¼ cup pretzels, gently pressing into chocolate mixture. Let cool until set, about 2 hours. Break into pieces. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

*We used Ghirardelli Dark Melting Wafers.

Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2020 78Louisiana Cookin’ | November/December 2020 78

WHEN IT COMES TO BREAKFAST, it’s hard to beat the combination that is sausage, eggs, and cheese. Th is

recipe takes those ingredients and transforms them into delicious hand pies fi lled with scrambled eggs, Cheddar

cheese, and andouille sausage for a little Louisiana fl avor. Especially during the busy holiday season, having a

breakfast that can be eaten out of hand is a time-saver.

BREAKFAST TO GO

BREAKFAST HAND PIESMAKES 8

These hand pies are perfect for breakfast on the go.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter4 large eggs, divided1½ tablespoons heavy whipping cream, divided⅛ teaspoon Cajun seasoning⅓ cup diced cooked andouille sausage⅓ cup shredded Cheddar cheese2 tablespoons sliced green onion1 (14.1-ounce) package refrigerated piecrusts

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

Q U I CK & EASY

2. In a large nonstick skillet, melt butter over medium-low heat. 3. In a large bowl, whisk together 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon cream, and Cajun seasoning. Add egg mixture to skillet; cook, gently stirring and scraping bottom and sides of skillet with a rubber spatula, just until large soft curds form. (Do not overcook.) Remove from heat, and stir in andouille, cheese, and green onion.4. On a lightly fl oured surface, unroll piecrusts. Using a 5-inch round cutter, cut 3 rounds from each piecrust, rerolling scraps once for remaining 2 rounds.5. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining 1 egg and remaining ½ tablespoon cream. Brush a small

amount of egg wash onto edges of each dough round. Place 1½ to 2 tablespoons fi lling in centers. Fold dough over fi lling, pressing out excess air. Using a fork dipped in fl our, crimp edges to seal. Place about 2 inches apart on prepared pans. Lightly brush pies with egg wash. Make 2 to 3 small cuts in top of each pie to release steam.6. Bake until golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes. Let cool slightly on pan before serving.

Note: If you do not have a 5-inch round cutter, a small bowl or saucer of the same size may be used. Place on top of dough and carefully cut around edges using a paring knife.

INSTRUCTIONS1. Mix fl our, cocoa powder, baking

powder and salt in large bowl.

2. Beat 2 cups sugar, cooled chocolate,

eggs, oil and peppermint extract in mixer

bowl on medium speed until blended.

Gradually add fl our mixture, beating on

low speed until blended.

3. Refrigerate, covered, until fi rm

enough to shape, about 1 hour or

overnight.

4. Heat oven to 350°F. Mix confectioners’

sugar and crushed candy in small bowl.

Work with 1⁄3 of the dough at a time,

keeping remaining dough refrigerated.

Shape dough into 1-inch balls; roll

in granulated sugar fi rst and then in

crushed candy mixture. Place two inches

apart on parchment paper-lined or

ungreased baking sheets.

5. Bake in 350°F oven until lightly

browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool on

baking sheets for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove

to wire racks; cool completely.

Elf 's Bite -Sized Chocolate Peppermint CrinklesPrep Time: 30 minutes, 1 hour chill time | Cook Time: 8 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour, 38 minutes | Yield: 72 cookies

www.laeggs.comLouisiana Department of Agriculture & Forestry

Mike Strain DVM Commissioner

INSIDER INFORMATION How to keep your cookies white: Roll the cookie dough ball in granulated sugar before rolling it in the confectioners’

sugar and crushed candy cane mix. Chilled dough is easier to handle and holds its shape better.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Per Serving: 1 cookie; Calories: 80; Total fat: 3.28 g; Saturated fat: 1.0 g; Polyunsaturated fat: 1.0 g;

Monounsaturated fat: 1.0 g; Cholesterol: 10 mg; Sodium: 25 mg; Carbohydrates: 14 g; Dietary fi ber: 0 g; Protein: 1 g; Sugar: 10 g; Vitamin A: 3 mcg;

Vitamin D: 0 mcg; Folate: 9 mcg; Calcium: 11 mg; Iron: 0; Choline: 8 mg; Potassium: 29 mg

INGREDIENTS

2¼ cups all-purpose fl our

¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1½ tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. salt

2 cups granulated sugar

1 (12-ounce) package semisweet

chocolate chips, melted & cooled

3 large EGGS, room temperature

½ cup vegetable oil

1 tsp. peppermint extract

1⁄3 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted

1⁄4 cup crushed peppermint candies

or candy canes

1⁄3 cup granulated sugar, for rolling


TWO SISTERS are making their mark on Louisiana’s

food scene with pepper jellies made with ingredients

grown on family farmland. Kim White and Cindy

Anders founded Bulldog Pepper Jelly aft er inheriting

their grandparents’ farm in Lone Pine, a community in

central Louisiana, where they grow peppers and harvest

pecans to be made into perfectly spicy pepper jellies.

Th e business began on a small scale when Kim and her

husband moved to the farm permanently about 14 years

ago. Kim started growing peppers in her garden and made

a basic pepper jelly with jalapeños. “I had never found one

that was really hot enough that I loved,” she says.

Not long aft er, Kim started experimenting with other

ingredients that had been grown on the farm. She

harvested pecans for her pecan pepper

jelly from the century-old pecan trees

on the property and used garlic from

her garden for roasted garlic pepper

jelly. She sourced fresh strawberries

for her strawberry pepper jelly from a

nearby farm.

“I was just like a mad scientist in

here,” Kim says. “Anything that was not

nailed down, I tried to make jelly out of it.”

Once her recipes had been

perfected, Kim started selling her

pepper jelly at local trade shows and

festivals and shipping corporate orders

for the holidays. She named it Bulldog

Pepper Jelly, “Th e Jelly with a Bite,” aft er

her two French bulldogs, Rocco and

Jo Jo, who have since passed away. Th e

business eventually began to outgrow what Kim could

handle in her farmhouse kitchen, so she teamed up with

Cindy four years ago to take the business to the next

level. Cindy moved to the farm, and the sisters partnered

with a co-packer to produce the pepper jelly on a large

scale, all while ensuring the quality of their products.

Today, Bulldog Pepper Jelly products are sold

in about 170 grocery stores and specialty shops in

Louisiana and along the Gulf Coast. Th ey off er six

signature fl avors, including Jalapeño, Roasted Pecan,

Strawberry, Roasted Garlic, Kadota Fig, and Cranberry

Pecan. Th e Kadota Fig and Cranberry Pecan jellies are

available seasonally in the fall. Kim and Cindy have two

gardens dedicated to growing pepper plants, including

jalapeños, habaneros, and serranos.

Th ough pepper jelly is oft en served

over cream cheese or with cheese and

charcuterie, Kim and Cindy enjoy

incorporating their jellies into recipes,

and they hope their customers will do

the same. Th e sisters share inspiration

for recipes on the business’ social

media pages, showing how versatile

the pepper jellies can be in recipes for

glazed pork chops, ratatouille, salad

dressings, upside-down cakes, and

more.

“Th is should be in everybody’s

pantry as a staple,” Kim says. “Th at was

our goal. I mean, we’ve done everything

with it, so we want people to just reach

for it because it’s in your pantry already.”

LOCAL PAN T RY

THE JELLY WITH A BITE

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WHERE TO FIND IT

IN LOUISIANARouses

Calandro’s Supermarket

Walmart Neighborhood Market

ONLINEbulldogpepperjelly.com

cajuncrate.com

CHEESY THUMBPRINT COOKIESMAKES 24

These savory appetizers are bursting with the tangy fl avors of Havarti and goat cheese and are fi lled with spicy pepper jelly for a fun twist on thumbprint cookies.

1½ cups shredded Havarti cheese1 cup all-purpose fl our4 ounces goat cheese6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed¼ teaspoon kosher salt⅓ cup Cranberry Pecan Bulldog Pepper Jelly

1. In the work bowl of a food processor, place Havarti, fl our, goat cheese, cold butter, and salt; process until dough forms a ball and has a coarse-meal texture, about 1 minute. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.2. Preheat oven to 400°.3. Using a tablespoon, scoop dough, and roll into 1-inch balls; place 1 inch apart on a baking sheet.4. Bake for 9 minutes. Press the back of a tablespoon into top of each cookie, creating an indentation. Fill each indentation with ½ teaspoon pepper jelly. Bake until edges are golden brown, 9 to 11 minutes more. Serve immediately.


GROWING UP IN SOUTH CAROLINA, Kelly Fields gained an

appreciation of Southern baking at a young age. Aft er two decades of mastering

her craft , Kelly opened restaurant and bakery Willa Jean in New Orleans in

2015. Now, she is sharing more than 100 Southern baking recipes in her fi rst

cookbook, Th e Good Book of Southern Baking (Lorena Jones Books, 2020),

coauthored by Kate Heddings.

“I wrote this cookbook for all my guests who throughout the years would

always ask for one,” Kelly says. “I wanted to put my favorite recipes together

and share all of the delicious cakes, cookies, puddings, and more that I’ve loved

baking throughout my career. With my book, I hope to inspire people to not be

intimidated by baking and to start having some fun in the kitchen.”

In Th e Good Book of Southern Baking, Kelly off ers variations on beloved

classics like coconut cake, pecan pie, lemon bars, and the chocolate chip cookies

that have become a cult favorite at Willa Jean. (She spent two and a half years perfecting her recipe.) She also shares

the ingredients, equipment, and techniques she fi nds essential for successful baking.

Several recipes are inspired by things her mother and grandmother baked while Kelly was growing up in South

Carolina, including Banana Bread (an “absolute staple” of her childhood); My Mom’s Peach, Blackberry, and Bourbon

Cobbler; and Hummingbird Cake. Others remind her of diff erent times in her life and her time living in New

Orleans, like chocolate and lemon doberge cakes and bread pudding.

“Th e thing I love most about Southern baking is the humbleness of it all,” Kelly says. “Southern pastry is simple

and honest food inspired by what is available in the moment.”

THE GOOD BOOK OF SOUTHERN BAKING

BY T H E BOO K

FRUIT CRISP WITH PECAN STREUSELMAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

For this crisp, try using a mix of Honeycrisp, Crispin, and Granny Smith apples. The pecan streusel topping makes this crisp unique, and the slightly crisper fruit gives it a fresh feel.

2 cups pecans1 cup granulated sugar, divided⅔ cup plus ¼ cup all-purpose fl our, divided1½ teaspoons orange zest 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided½ cup unsalted butter, melted⅓ cup fi rmly packed light brown sugar1 teaspoon lemon zest¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon4 cups ¾- to 1-inch-cubed peeled apples (about 3 medium apples) 4 cups ¾- to 1-inch-cubed peeled Bosc pears (about 3 medium pears) 1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, dicedVanilla ice cream, to serveGarnish: orange zest

1. Preheat oven to 300°. 2. On a large rimmed baking sheet, spread pecans in a single layer. 3. Bake until lightly browned and fragrant, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely, about 15 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 350°. 4. In the work bowl of a food processor, place cooled pecans; pulse until coarsely chopped. Add ⅔ cup granulated sugar, ⅔ cup fl our, orange zest, and 1 teaspoon salt; pulse just until combined. With processor running, pour melted butter through food chute in a slow, steady stream until clumps form. (Topping can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature before using.)

5. In a large bowl, stir together brown sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon, remaining ⅓ cup granulated sugar, remaining ¼ cup fl our, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Add apples, pears, and lemon juice; toss to combine. Add cold butter, and toss again. (You still want to see small chunks of butter throughout the mixture.) Transfer fi lling to a 9-inch square baking pan or cast-iron skillet. Top with pecan mixture.6. Bake until topping is golden brown and fi lling is thickened and bubbly, 1 hour and 15 minutes, rotating pan after 30 minutes of baking. Let cool slightly before serving. Serve with ice cream. Garnish with orange zest, if desired. Crisp can be kept at room temperature for up to 3 days; reheat slightly to serve.

3 EASY WAYS TO ORDER

Celebrate this wonderful time of the year with incredible recipes, from decadent desserts to comforting favorites! Fill your home

with some of our best-ever holiday recipes.

’Tis the season to fi nd inspiration with some of our favorite books and products.

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PHYLLIS HOFFMAN DEPIANO

C L A S S I C R E C I P E C O L L E C T I O N

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story by kirk estopinal | photography by john o’hagan

Kirk Estopinal is a Partner of New Orleans’ James Beard Award-winning bar Cure and beloved Caribbean restaurant and bar Cane & Table.

Kirk currently lives in historic Algiers Point in New Orleans with his wife and two children.

SW IZZ L E ST I CK

SPARKLING SIPPER

ONE YEAR, I was thinking up diff erent holiday drinks

I could make, just jotting down as many ideas as I could

before I could test one, and I came up with a cranberry

shrub, which is basically cranberries cooked with vinegar

and a little bit of sugar and spice. When you make it, it’s

exactly like making cranberry sauce—I basically took my

Th anksgiving cranberry sauce recipe and then I added a

healthy portion of rice wine vinegar to it.

Th is drink, which I call Cranberry Sauce 75, is just

about a half ounce of the shrub with a glass of nice, dry

Champagne and a cinnamon stick or lemon twist for

garnish. You can decorate it with an artful eye however

you like.

Th e idea was a drink that you could make and you

could serve literally 50 of them at your Th anksgiving or

Christmas event. It’s very easy to build. It doesn’t require

any bartending skill. You can just put the bottle down, and

people can pour as much as they want in the glass and top

it off with Champagne or sparkling wine.. It’s tasty, and it

works well on ice or up—it just depends on how you like

it. Personally, I like all Champagne drinks on ice.


CRANBERRY SAUCE 75MAKES 1 SERVING

This sparkling cocktail is sure to make spirits bright at your holiday dinners.

½ ounce Cranberry Sauce Shrub (recipe follows)Dry sparkling wine, chilledGarnish: cinnamon stick, lemon twist

1. In a cocktail glass, place Cranberry Sauce Shrub. Top with sparkling wine. Garnish with cinnamon stick and lemon twist, if desired.

CRANBERRY SAUCE SHRUBMAKES 2 QUARTS

1 (16-ounce) bag frozen cranberries, thawed1 quart water½ quart rice wine vinegar 2 cinnamon sticks1 teaspoon grated fresh nutmegPeels of 2 lemons and 1 orange, cut with a Y-peeler, pith removed4 cups sugar

1. In a large saucepan, combine cranberries, 1 quart water, vinegar, cinnamon sticks, nutmeg, lemon peels, and orange peel. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off heat, and stir in sugar until combined. Strain using a fi ne-mesh sieve, pressing cranberries lightly; discard solids. Let cool completely. Refrigerate in an airtight jar for up to 1 week.

I think those mid-priced but

well-made French sparkling wines

that are not classically Champagne

work really well for cocktails—

something like a reputable Crémant

d’Alsace, Crémant du Jura, or

Crémant de Bourgogne. I’m a big

fan of the retail $30 price range

for Champagne drinks. You want

something that’s tasty and a little bit

toasty and bready with that yeasty

nose. Or if it has more of a beef

minerality, with a well-cooked steak

kind of taste, I think those really

work well in drinks because they

have this astringency and dryness

in the fi nish. You can throw a little

sugar at them, and in the end, you

get that nice little luscious feeling,

but it’s also dried out at the end so

you want to drink more of them and

you don’t feel like you’re drinking

syrup.

With this drink, you for sure

want to have some sort of aromatic

on top of it—a lemon twist or a

cinnamon stick or even a little

grate of cinnamon is fi ne—because

not everybody enjoys the smell of

vinegar when they drink.


I N D EX &R ESO U RCES

Recipe IndexRecipe IndexAppetizersBacon-Wrapped Dates, 39Cheesy Thumbprint Cookies, 83Shrimp and Bell Pepper Crostini, 19Spiced Nut Mix, 66

BeveragesCranberry Sauce 75, 93Cranberry Sauce Shrub, 93

BreadsButtermilk Cornbread, 53Cranberry-Pecan Muffi ns, 23Herb and Cheese Biscuits, 40Pumpkin Bread with Molasses Praline Caramel, 60

BreakfastBreakfast Hand Pies, 79Couche Couche with Bacon and Jam, 54

DessertsButtermilk Glaze, 64Chocolate-Bourbon Truffl es, 67Citrus Pecan Pie, 62Cream Cheese Pie Dough, 62Fruit Crisp with Pecan Streusel, 87Hummingbird Cake Truffl es, 67Milk Punch Panna Cotta, 61Molasses Praline Caramel, 60

Orange and Vanilla Bean Soft Caramels, 69Peanut Butter Chocolate Bread Pudding, 63Peanut Butter Sauce, 63Pecan Pralines, 70Peppermint Buttercream, 63Red Velvet Roulade, 63Salted Pecan Toff ee, 70Satsuma-Cranberry Bundt Cake, 64Sweet and Spicy Chocolate Bark, 77

Meat, Poultry, and GameCajun Spiced Turkey, 39Chicken Fricassee, 46Pecan-Crusted Pork Tenderloin with Pears, 24Pork Cracklin’s, 44Uncle Paul’s Woodcock, 26White Beans with Andouille Sausage, 46

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RESOURCES

Spillin’ the Beans: Photos courtesy of Collin Richie (Pizza Byronz, page 11); AVO TACO (page 11); Melissa Araujo (Alma, page 11); Coff ee Joy (page 13); Beebe Tran of Studio Tran Photography (Union Ramen, page 15); Wilson Savoy (Hideaway on Lee, page 15); and Nicole Bell Photography (Cajun Crate, page 17). Heartwarming Holiday Casseroles: Pages 47–54: Arcades Green plate; Philippe Deshoulieres. Elizabeth plate; Royal Crown Derby. Oasis Green plate; Royal Limoges. Golden Laurel plate; Herend. Schleiger 133 plate; Haviland. Green place mat; Juliska. Mercury glass ornament; Balsam Hill. Special thanks to Bromberg’s;

Replacements Ltd.; and Balsam Hill. Fresh

Catch for the Holidays: Pages 55–56: Recipe © 2020 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. Text and Photographs © 2020 George Graham. Portrait by Roxanne Graham. Best Oyster Dishes: Photos courtesy of Randy Krause Schmidt (Neyow’s, page 72); Banh Mi Boys (page 73); Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar (page 74); Chris Granger (Mosca’s Restaurant, page 75); and Collin Richie (Phil’s Oyster Bar & Seafood, page 75). Local Pantry:

Page 82: Photos courtesy of Bulldog Pepper Jelly. By the Book: Page 85: Photos from The Good Book of Southern

Baking (Lorena Jones Books, 2020); Page

87: Food styling by Kellie Gerber Kelley.

Sauces, Seasonings and CondimentsCajun Spice Mix, 39Cane Syrup Sauce, 39Cracklin’ Spice, 44Infused Honey, 67Peppercorn Vinaigrette, 40

SeafoodCrawfi sh Cornbread Dressing, 53Oyster Pasta, 56Ruth Fertel’s Plaquemines Parish Oyster Dressing, 28Shrimp Pasta Bake, 53

Vegetables and Side DishesBeef Dirty Rice, 46Cajun Squash Casserole, 53Pecan Rice-Stuff ed Acorn Squash, 21Spinach Madeleine, 54Sweet Potatoes with Bourbon Butter, 40Winter Kale Salad, 39

CRANBERRY-PECAN

MUFFINS P. 23

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION (required by Act of August 12, 1970: Section 3685, Title 39, United States Code). 1. Louisiana Cookin’ 2. (ISSN: 1096-4134) 3. Filing date: 10/1/2020. 4. Issue frequency: Bi-monthly. 5. Number of issues published annually: 6. 6. The annual subscription price is $25. 7. Complete mailing address of known offi ce of publication: Hoff man Media 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038. Contact person: Kolin Rankin. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business offi ce of publisher: Hoff man Media 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor, and managing editor. Publisher, Phyllis Hoff man DePiano, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038, Editor, Caitlin Watzke, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038, Managing Editor, N/A. 10. Owner: Hoff man Media, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243-5038. 11. Known bondholders, mortgages, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent of more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None. 12. Tax status: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months. 13. Publisher title: Louisiana Cookin’. 14. Issue date for circulation data below: September/October 2020. 15. The extent and nature of circulation: A. Total number of copies printed (Net press run). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 39,437. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 37,261. B. Paid circulation. 1. Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 19,295. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 17,055. 2. Mailed in-county paid subscriptions. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 0. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 0. 3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors and counter sales. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 4,438. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 4,080. 4. Paid distribution through other classes mailed through the USPS. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 43. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 40. C. Total paid distribution. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 23,776. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 21,175. D. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside mail). 1. Free or nominal Outside-County. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 281. Number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 132. 2. Free or nominal rate in-county copies. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 0. Number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 0. 3. Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other Classes through the USPS. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0. Number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 0. 4. Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 1,700. Number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 1,650. E. Total free or nominal rate distribution. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 1,981. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 1,782. F. Total free distribution (sum of 15c and 15e). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 25,757. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 22,957. G. Copies not Distributed. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 13,680. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 14,304. H. Total (sum of 15f and 15g). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 39,437. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling: 37,261. I. Percent paid. Average percent of copies paid for the preceding 12 months: 92.3%. Actual percent of copies paid for the preceding 12 months: 92.2% 16. Electronic Copy Circulation: A. Paid Electronic Copies. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 0. B. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 23,776. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 21,175. C. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 25,757. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 22,957. D. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c x 100). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 92.3%. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to fi ling date: 92.2%. I certify that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above nominal price: Yes. Report circulation on PS Form 3526-X worksheet 17. Publication of statement of ownership will be printed in the November/December 2020 issue of the publication. 18. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager, or owner: Greg Baugh, Executive Vice-President/Operations & Manufacturing. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanction and civil actions.

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This compendium of Bundt cakes features more than 100 recipes, tips, and techniques to help bake the perfect cake. The shape that launched a thousand cakes, the Bundt pan offers the awless mold for decadent, dense cakes destined for thick glazes and syrup soaks. Whether you’re looking for an exciting update, like our Peanut Butter and Jelly Swirl Bundt Cake, or a steadfast standard, like the classic Chocolate Chip Kugelhopf, we have a ring-shaped delight for you.

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NEWBOOK!


DOBERGE CAKE is a sweet tradition in New Orleans for all kinds of

celebrations. Traditionally, these cakes are stacked with six layers of moist

buttermilk cake and fi lled with a creamy custard fi lling. Chocolate and lemon

are the most common fl avors, but local bakers have come up with delicious and

exciting new fl avor combinations. Our Caramel Pecan Doberge Cake (pictured

here) is sure to make a statement at your holiday celebrations this year. Find the

recipe and more of our favorite holiday desserts at louisianacookin.com.

LAGN IAP P E

2020-11-01 louisiana cookin

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