2015 vietnam diary - john sinclair study tours/2015 vietnam diary.pdf · hanoi is a city of 8...
TRANSCRIPT
DIARY
NaturalFocus’s
2015VietnamTour
13thto30thJanuary
SunsetonHalongBayagreatintroductiontoVietnam
During18veryfulldaysinVietnamagroupof11Aussies,allveteransfromvariousGOBUSHSafaris,madeatourofVietnamorganizedbyPoowhoco-optedsomewonderfulVietnameselocalguidesforvariouspartsofthetourthatwentfromHanoitoHoChiMinhCity.
Thetourincluded:• Threevillagehomestayswiththree
differentethicgroups,andavarietyofaccommodation
• 7ofthe8VietnameseWorldHeritagesites:TempleofLiterature(VanMieu)(Hanoi)ImperialCitadelofThangLong(Hanoi)HalongBay(NaturalSite)TrangAnLandscapeComplex(Mixedsite)ComplexofHueMonumentsTheancientCityofHoiAnTheMySonSanctuary
• SeeingsomeoftheimpactsoftheAmerican/VietnamWar50yearsago.
• AformerArmysoldierturnedbirdwatcherandthesonofaVietCongsoldierwhobecamestronglyanti-communistfollowingtheNorth’svictoryguidedus.
• WevisitedthreeNationalParks,CucPhuong,BachMaandCatTien.
• Wetravelledalmostthefulllengthofthecountrytoseethediversityoftheclimates,geography,peopleandculture.
• Weunderstandwhy“happiness”isintheVietnamesemotto.
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ArrivinginHanoiMonday,12thJanuary
Therewere11Aussiesinourgroupandtheyarrivedinfivedifferentways.WearestillnotsurehowmanyothersbecauseapartfromPootherewereseveralThaisincludingSami,her16-yearoldsisterDa,andIng,whoallmadetheirownwaytotheHanoiHotelRomance.ThentherewasPat(Poo’smother)whowilljoinusforsixdaysinHanoiwhowasstayinginanearbyhotel.SimonhadarrivedweeksearliertogobirdwatchingwithPooinvariousplaces.ULNarrivefromDarwinafterabumpytripviaKualaLumpur.JudiandBobhadn’tmetGailbeforebuttheypickedheroutofthecrowdattheSydneyAirportbecauseshelookedlikeaGOBUSHsafarist.ThustheywereonthesameflightfromSydneyviaHoChiMinhCitywheretheyhadasmoothtransfertotheirlinktoHanoi.GillianhadtotravelfromRockhamptonandsocouldn’tbeonthesameflightastherestoftheQueenslandcontingent.TherestwereJenny,Pam,Diane,SuandF.L.TheyhadalaterstartinBrisbanebutafteraverybumpyflightthroughmonsooncloudstheyputinacoldfivehoursinGuangzhouwheretheraindidn’tabate.TheyfinallyreachedthebrandneHanoiInternationalterminalatmidnightwhereworkerswerestillunpackingandputtingfinishingtouchestothesuperbnewterminal.ThatwasthejoyandallwentsmoothlyexceptforDiannewhoseluggagedidn’taccompanyherontheflight.Soitwasaftera24hoursonthemovethattheyarrivedattheHanoiRomanceHotel.
EveoftourTuesday,13thJanuary
HanoiTodaywasn’tonPoo’sitinerarythatwasduetobeginon14thJanuary.Wehadallarrivedadayearlytobereadyandtolookaround.ItwasthereforewithsomesurprisethatafteramagnificentbreakfastpoogotustogetherandgaveusanewamendeditinerarythatincludedthisdayforseeingtwoWorldHeritagesitesinHanoiandtheMausoleumofHoChiMinhwhowasthefounderofmodernVietnamhavingleditsreleasefromWesterncolonialrule/influences.ThuswesetoutforadayofactionbeginningwithawalkaroundthecityledbyChungwhowillbeaccompanyingusforthenextsixdays.ChungisanEnglish-speakingVietnameseguidewhohasworkedwithPoopreviouslyandwholivesclosetoourhotel.Hanoiisacityof8millionpeoplewhoseemtohaveatleast5millionmotorcyclesthattheyseemto
crowdmostlyintothepartofthepartsofthecitythatwewereexploring.50%wereparkedand50%weredeterminednottostopforlights,othertrafficorpedestriansandtheyweavedtheirwayaroundwithsuchdexteritythatithadtobeadmiredevenifitwascausingussuchinconvenience.Therewasalmostatotalabsenceofelectricmotorcyclesandthreewheeledmotorcycles(tut-tutorequivalents)wewerelatertolearnthatasadeliberatedisincentivefromowningmotorcarsthegovernmentplacesa100%salestaxonmotorcarsandthismakesthenarrowstreetsmuchlesscongestedthantheywouldotherwisebe.
HanoiBriefingbyPooonourunscheduleddayto
explorethiscity’sculturaltreasures
AfteroursurprisereunionwithPoo’smotherwhowasstayingatanotherhotelwewalkedtotheStJamesRomanCatholiccathedralthatwasbuiltin1886asareplicaoftheNotreDamecathedralinParis.Wedidn’tgetinsidethegrandedificethatlookedalittlegrimyontheexterior.WedidhoweverseesomeinterestingreliefsonthewallssurroundingthecathedralwithaspectaculardepictionofthemostcriticaleventsoftheNewTestament.Alassomeoftheimagerywasobscuredbytheoverheadwire-scapesthatdrapedalmosteverystreetaswell.OurnextstopwasaWorldHeritagesite,theTempleofLiteratureinscribedin2011.Wearrivedatthissitenearthelakewithwonderfulgardensthatwereapparentfromthemomentwealightedfromourtaxis.Thisplaceoflearningthathasexistedforover1,000yearswheretheleadingteachers,especiallyConfucius,arevenerated.AlasitseemsthatteachersinVietnamdonotholdsuchprestigeandweheardthatteachersarepaidaslittleas$US200permonth.Inthetemplethereweregreatstatuestothemostesteemedteachers.Outsideanumberofstudentsinacademicgarbwereposingforformalphotographsinthisplace.Theveryattractivesurroundsofmanicuredgardensand
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manyelevatedbonsaitraysaretestamentthegardeningandlearningbelongtogether.WehadlunchinanadjacentrestaurantwherethefoodandthesmoothiesweremagnificentbeforeheadingofftoanotherWorldHeritagesitetheImperialCitadel.ThetaxiridetookusthroughthemainadministrativecentreofthisancientcitythatstillexhibitssomanyFrenchtraits.Theeye-catchingedificesoftheHoChiMinhmausoleum,thenewParliamentHouse,andtheheadquartersoftheCommunistPartystoodout.Howeverthereweremanyotherelegantbuildingsinthisprecinct.TheCitadelhasbeendemolished,extended,replacedinvariousformsbythevariousChinese,VietnameseregimesandtheFrench.ItslastfamousincarnationwasasthemilitaryHQfortheVietCongduringtheVietnam(American)War.HanoiwasmercilesslybombedbytheAmericans.MuchofHanoi’spopulationhadtobeevacuated.Thebombingdidn’tdetertheVietnameseleaderswhowentintobunkersdeepunderthecitadel.FollowingthistourhalfwentontotheHoChiMinhMausoleumwheretheywitnessedthechangingoftheguardwhiletheothersreturnedtothehoteltocatchuponvariousmatter.Wereassembledtoheadofftoamarvellousdisplayofthewaterpuppetsbeforegoingtoyetanothermagnificentmeal.Againtheaccesswasviaseveralflightsofsteepstairs.Itwasaveryfullandgreatdayandthetourhasn’tevenofficiallystarted.Itwasalsoagreatwaytoforgetaboutjetlag.BetterstillDianne’ssuitcasearrivedandshecouldsleepincleanclothes.
Day 1 Wednesday, 14th January
Ha Long Bay WehadanotherbreakfastattheHanoiRomanceHotel.Therewereovertwodozenitemsonofferatthegreatbeautifullypresentedsmorgasbordbreakfastplustea,coffee,juiceandfruit.ThenitwasapackupfromoneofthebestthreestarhotelsIhaveexperiencedandconfrontthemeleeoftraffictoboardourbusinanearbylargerstreetandextricateourselvesfromthismetropolisforwhatturnedouttobeafourhourjourneytoboardourboatatHalongBay.Infacttherewassomuchribbondevelopmentalongthe170kilometresofhighwayweweren’tsurewhenwehadleftthecity.Wehadonewhatseemedtobeanobligatorystopatagovernmentruntouristtrapbeforearrivingataprivateislandownedbyaveryrichconstruction-propertydevelopermogul.Heretherewasachancetorenewourcashreservesbeforetransferringtoalighterinthemassivemarinathatcouldhavebeen
ontheGoldcoastexceptforthesizeandshapesoftheboats.OurshipwastheV-Spirit12oneofalargefleet.HowevertourismonHalongBayismassive.Therewere100similarvesselstooursonthewatersomelarger.Ourshiphad16onboardincludingourfiveThaicompanionsandacrewof12.Wespreadoutintothe12cabinsandenjoyedasumptuouslunchthatwasdifficulttofullyenjoyaswecruisedpastdazzlingkarstscenerywhilewewereinsidethecabin.Thisdidn’tdeterusoverthenextfewdaysrecordingthousandsofimagesbetweenusofthisspectacularareathattousreallyjustifieditsplaceontheWorldHeritageList.Ourfirststopwasanislandwithabeach.Severalcruiseboatstargetedthisislandwhereshort-tailedMacaquemonkeyshadbeenintroduced.Thebeachwasabout100metreslongbutinthispartofthecountrywherecleansandybeachesareararitytheywereveryproudofit.Mostofthegroupascendedthe370stepstoreachthesummitofthissmallislandwhereAcaciamanjiumtreeswerenaturalized.TheyfoundthoughatthesummitonlyacoupleofhungrymonkeysandnoviewbutitwassomeintroductiontothefloraofHalongBaywhereover400specieshavebeenrecorded.
Short-tailedMacaque
Wethenmovedontoananchoragenearourdestinationofagrottowherethegrouphadanoptiontogokayaking.AcoupleoftheyounggirlstookitupanddisplayedtheirprowessinfrontofLongNose’scamera.HoweverF.Lremainedaboardtocapturesomeoftheimageryofthesunsetaswesatsurroundedbyabout100tourboats.Chung,ourlocalVietnameseguidesaidthatHalongBayattractsabout1.5millionvisitorsayear.Inthepeakseasonasmanyas10,000touristsatatimeareoutonthewatertakingintheview.Mosttouristsdon’tseealotoftheWorldHeritagesitebecausetheyprefertostayovernightintheluxury
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ofmainlandhotelseverynightandventureoutonlyforday-trips.AfterthegrottoexcursionwespenttherestofthedaylightonhetopdeckenjoyingfreshfruitandanalcoholfreeHappyHourpriortodinner.TherewasatoastatdinnertoPooandthecrewforanexcellentfirstofficialdayofthetour.Followingdinner,anotherculinarydelight,LongNosewasabletoutilizetheTVscreentopresentsomeofhisamazingimagesofhisrecentvisitstoAmbon,WestPapuatoseewhalesharks.ThiswasfollowedbyKakaduintheWetandthetourhedidwithF.L&Suin2010throughBali,SuluwesiandTernate.Weretiredat9.30fortheleastamountofrockingeverexperiencedatseaduringawindlesswavelessnight.
Day2Thursday, 15th January
Halong Bay - Cuc Phoung National Park Thedaybeganat6.30withmostascendingtothetopdeckwithTaiChilessonspriortobreakfast.
Thetopdeckwaswetwithaveryheavydewthattookuntoafternoontofinallydisappearafterabacon,eggstoastandjambreakfastweheadedacrosstoacavernousThereweremanystairstoclimbintovariouschambersofthiscaveanditseemedthatthewidepathcouldcomfortablyaccommodatethehordesofpeopleswarmingthroughtotakeintheinterestingformationsandthegrandsizeofthecave.ItwasthenbacktotheboatwherethenextitemontheagendawasrollingVietnamesespringrolls.ForGoBushveteransthisshouldhavebeenabreezewithsquarericepaperandtheveryfinelychoppedcucumber,carrot,ham,egg,noodlesandlettuce.Sincemostwerenotreallynovicesthiswasoneoftheeasiestcookinglessons.Withthatwepackedupandclearedourroomandtookinmoreofthesceneryaswepreparedforagrandearlylunch
befittingthestyleandcuisinewehadbeenaccustomedto.Thenwithlunchoverandbarbillspaidweheadedforthemarina.Thereweremorestunningformationstobeobservedonourwayin,ClosertothemarinawesawmanymoredaytripboatswithpassengerswhowillneverexperiencewhatitisliketogothroughafulldayandovernightcycleinthismostimpressiveWorldHeritagesite.Leavingthemillionaire’sislandtoobservebeforethecausewayIwasastonishedanextensiveforestthatwasapurestandofAcaciamanjium.Itmusthavegrownsofastthatitlookedlikeanaturalforest.Onthebusweweretoldthatitwouldbea4tofivehourjourneytoournextdestinationCucPhuongNationalPark.Itturnedouttobesixhourtocoverthe250kilometres.ThiswassomethingthatGoBushveteranshavehadsomepreviousexperiencewith.TherewasanunscheduledstoptotakeagroupphotoatanotherimpressivekarstoutcropareathatasrecentlyasJune2014wasadmittedasVietnam’s8thWorldHeritagesite.Itisalsothefirstmixedcultural-landscapesite.TranAnScenicLandscapecomplexinNinhBinhProvinceisacharacterizedbystunningkarstscenery.ItisinterestingthatitwasinscribedatthesameWorldHeritageCommitteeMeetingthatalsoinscribedtheGuilinKarstcomplexinChinathatmanyofusarefamiliarwith.Unfortunatelythelightwasfastfadingwhenwearrivedandtherewasjustenoughtimeforagroupphotoonthesite.WediscoveredariverthatliketheverywellconstructedroadthatweweretravellingonthreadeditswaythroughthekarstoutcropsthatinmanywaysresembledthekarstoutcropsinHalongBay.ThemagnificentroadwehadtravelledonsinceleavingNinhBinhcitypassedthroughsomewonderfulpaddyfieldlandscapesandjustneartheendwecouldseetherecentlybuiltBaiNinhBuddhistpagoda,reportedlythetallestintheworld.Itseemsevidentthatthegovernmentisplanningtocapitalizeonthescenicattractionsofthisareaandturnitintoatouristhotspot.Thatwasevidentbytheroadthathasbeenbuilttoencouragetouristdevelopment.
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AswearrivedattheCucPhuongNationalParkHQinthedarkoveraveryroughroaddodgingpeople,trucksandmotorcyclesthesoundofbranchesbrushingpastthebushalsohadsomefamiliarity.CucPhuongwasestablishedasVietnam’sfirstNationalParkin1968.Itappearsthatatthetimeofestablishmenttherewasalotofeffortputintoestablishinginfrastructureincludinglodgesroadspublictoiletsetc.Howevertherehasbeenlittlemaintenancesinceanditlooksasiftheanticipatednumberofvisitorsnevereventuated.Thusthereweretworestaurantsbuttheycouldoperateonlyoneatatimeasseemedtohavehappenedwhenweturnedupfordinnerat7.30andwereredirectedfromtheWhiteHouseRestauranttooneoperatingneartheentrystation.Howeverwehadawonderfuldinnertherebeforereturningtoourrespectivelodgesbythelake.InthreedayswehadexperiencedfourofVietnam’seightWorldHeritagesites.
Day 3 Friday, 16th January
Cuc Phoung National Park AftersomeearlymorningwalksaroundthelakeweassembledforbreakfastattheWhiteHouseat7.30am.At9.00amwesetofftowalktotheTurtleConservationCentre.Thiswasestablishedin1998andishometosomeofVietnam’smostendangeredturtlesincludingsomethatarenearlyextinctinthewild.Somespeciesthatareextinctinthewildthoughareinthehandsofprivatecollectors.ULNsuggestedthatthereneedstobegreaterconsiderationgiventoencouragingprivatecollectorswhohavesuchcriticallyendangeredanimalstosurrenderthemsothattheremainingrareanimalscanbeputinacaptivebreedingprogramtohelprestorethepopulationsforthefuture.
Lotsofphotosweretakenandafairbitofturtlehandlingwasundertaken.Wewereshownthetechniquesusedbypoacherstocatchturtles.InthepastitwasforconsumptionbutnowthehighpriceontheblackmarketisencouragingAlas!WetarriedlongerthanplannedattheTurtlecentrenotappreciatingthattherewasanearlieranticipatedmoveacrosstheroadtotheprimatesCentre.Thuswearrivedlateanddidnotappreciatethatwehadtobeoutofthecentreby11.20amsothattheycouldshutdownforlunch.ThePrimatesCentrewasestablishedin1993bytheFrankfurtZoolologicalSociety.ThathelpsexplainwhythemaninchargeisaGermanwhohaslivedhereforthepast21years.TherewasalsoelsewhereintheparkathirdprogramforCarnivoreandPangolinConservationthatwedidn’tsee.Afteryetanothersuperblunchwehadalatestartofftoundertakea7-kilometrewalkattheotherendofthepark.Onthewaywestoppedtoascendandexploreacaveusedbypre-historicpeopleforatleast7,500yearsbasedonarchaeologicalevidence.TheevidencewasthereinthemoundsofmiddenshellsofwhatseemedtobelandsnailsaswellascavepaintingsnotdissimilartotheBradshawAboriginalpaintingsinrocksheltersintheKimberley.Ourwalkrevealedasplendidrainforestgrowingonthekarstbutlittlewildlifeotherthansquirrels.Thiswasdespitesomanypryingeyesseekingtoseetheanimalsofthisforest.AfterdinnerbackattheWhiteHousetwoofthosepryingeyedshodinthongsbravedthecoldtoretracepartofthewayexploreforfrogs.ULNdidn’thavesuchaveryproductiveeventingforallhisbraverybuthemanagedtocapturetheimageofasaratogainthecreek.
Day 4 Saturday, 17th January
Cuc Phoung National Park to Mu Village
FourofthegroupbravedthechillymorningandabandonedthewarmerACenvironmentforabird-watchingtour,thattheysaidwasfabulouswithatleast30birdsspeciesbeingidentifiedwiththeaidofHuon,averygoodguidewhotookULN,Gail,DianeandSimononawalkthoughtheareaaroundthePrimateandTurtleConservationCentres.Amongstthemanybirdsseenweresunbirds,flowerpeckers,greyheadedpygmywoodpecker,Orientalpiedrobin,JapaneseSparrowhawk,Ashidrongo,sixspeciesbulbul,andaspiderhunter.Lotsof
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gibbonswereheardhowlingasthegroupreturnedforalatebreakfast.Itwasaveryproductivemorning.
AfteralatebreakfastPho,weeventuallymadeourwaythroughtheNationalParkandthendowntheroadwehadonlytravelledintotheparkinthedark.ItturnedouttobefarmedbyMuongpeoplewhohadbeenforcedtovacatethepark.Thelandcouldnotgrowricebecauseitwashillyandhadnowateringsystem.Sothemaincropswerecassava,cornSugarCaneandAcaciamanjiumwhichwasturnedintoplywood.Thecassavahadbeenrecentlyharvestedandcroppedupandlefttodryontheroadside.Aswewentwesawmuchsugarcanebeingtransportedintoasugarmillbyamiscellanyoftransportfromoxcarttothreewheeledmotorbikestoanassortmentoftrucks.Wedidn’tfindthesugarmillbutasweproceededwesawmanyhectaresofcassavaspreadoutdryinginthefield.Apparentlythecassavaissoldtobeprocessedintonoodles.ItturnedouttobeJudi’s66thbirthdayandwestoppedinatownonthewaytoprocuretwobirthdaycakes.ItwasafascinatingdrivetoourdestinationpartofwhichfollowedtheHoChiMinhHighwaythatnowtraversesthelengthofVietnamfromNorthtoSouth.Afteramarketstopandafewwrongturnswegotontheroadthatledupandoverasteepmountain.Itwasnarrowandslowbutwearrivedonscheduleatourlunchstopwhereagreatlunchawaited.Wethenstartedthechallengingtrekdowntheroad.Weeventuallyreachedavillageandwaitedforeveryonetocatchupbeforeheadingdowntoawaterfall.Itturnedouttobeamagnificentwaterfallbutmostonlysawthetop.DaandIntrepidGuidethoughdashedofftothebottomtocapturethefulldisplay.FearlessLeaderwasthelasttoleavethetopviewingpointbutwhenhegotbacktothetrackhesawno-onesoheheadedbackthevillagewehadjustcomeformbuttheothershadgonetheoppositewayandafteraseriesofbaddirectionshewefinallyreunitedwithhisgroup
followinghisfirstrideonamotorcyclepillioninhislife.TherewasawonderfuldinnerinthehomestayofQuadethiThuc(Thucforshort)thatwaschallengingforthosenotaccustomedtosittingonthefloortoeatdinner.TherewasininterestinginterchangeaswelearntabouttheMuongculture,thetwo-childpolicyofVietnamandacelebrationofJud’sbirthdaywithacakethathadbeendutifullycarriedthoughthewalkbyPooandSami.
Day 5 Sunday, 18th January
Mu Village to Mai Hich Village (Mai Chau valley)
WewerenotlookingforwardtothewalkbacktothebusthatwasmainlyuphillincludingsomeverysteephillsonaveryroughroadbuttheresourcefulPooandChungengagedatrucktoliftusupthehill.ThatleftusacoupleofhourstotakearelaxingstrollaroundthevillageandobservewhathappensevenonaSundaywithpeoplewalking.Thenitwastimetotravelupthehillinthetruck.Therewasagreatimprovisationwithawalkonrampandevenbenchseatsaroundthesidebutthatwaswheretheluxuryended.Ittook1.3hourstotravelthe7kilometresbacktothebus.Whatwelostinpuffingwasmadeupbythebouncingasthelumberingtrucklungedandbouncedoverinnumerablebumpsandevenhadtodoathreepointturntomakeitaroundonehairpinbend.Wearrivedbackatthebusbeforenoonandthenhadlunchattherestaurantwehadusedthedaybefore.ThenwebegantheroughroadbacktothebitumenwherewepausedtobuysomefruitbeforedescendingthemountainandmakinganotherlongbustripnorththroughendlessvillagesandcountlessroadsidestallsandvendorsbeforejoiningHighway6headingfromHanoitothewestofthecountry.Thisroadwaswidersmotherandbusier.ItfinallylefttheflatlandandheadedupahighmountainrangeanddowntheothersideintotheMaiChauvalley.WeleftHighway6atMaiChauandbegandrivingsouthalongthefloorofthispicturesquevalleythatishometoabout50,000peopleanddroveformorethananother15kilometrestoourdestinationinMaiHichvillage.Itwasabout4.30butthesmoginthevalleymadeitseemmuchlater.Inthepoorlightwesetofftoexplorethevillagealthoughinrealityitwaswanderingamongstthefields,breakingdownfencesordetouringaroundthem.MaiHichiscomprisedofethnicThais.ThispartofVietnamhadbeenpartoftheThaiKingdomabout
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400yearsagowhentheFrenchstartedtheircolonizationofIndo-China.TheFrenchfoughtawarwithThailandthatendedwithThailandcedingalllandtotheFrenchthatnowisincludedinLaos,CambodiaandVietnam.ThatresultedinsomeThaisbeingcutofffromtheirhomelandandbecomingVietnamesecitizens.TheyareoneofthemanyethnicminoritiesnowinVietnam.TheystillretainmuchoftheirtraditionalThaicultureincludingbuildingwoodenhousesonstilts,weaving,dancingandlanguage.BackatourHomestaywherewehadgoodhotshowersandallsleptinthesameroomwehadaccessagaintoourlargecasesandcleanedupbeforedinner.Itwasagreatdinnerwithusallatthesamelongtableincludingourhostfamily.Wewereadvisedthoughthattherewouldbeafewgirlsfromthevillagethatwouldbecomingtoperformforusafterdinner.
Noneofuscouldhaveanticipatedtheamazinginteractionthatawaitedusattheconcert.Thedancingwasveryentertainingwithsevenbeautifulyoungwomenallunder20yearsofageandsome17.ThemusicwasalsoverygoodexceptforSami’sdiscordantgongplaying.Howeveroncethelastdanceofskippingovertheclappingpoleshadbeencompleted,theinteractionbecameverylivelyasonebyonewewereinveigledintojoininginthedancingandalsoendlesslysippingthe“happywater”(ricewine)throughlongbamboo“straws”.ItwasaveryhappygroupofAussiesthatmadetheirwaytoourcommonbedroomwherealmosteveryonewasoblivioustoanysoundsmadebyanyoneelseoncethelightswentout.
Day 6 Monday, 19th January
Mai Hich Village to Hue ItwasanearlymorningandsaddeparturefromMaiHichaftersuchawonderfulandmemorableevening.ThevalleywasfulloffogandwesettledinforalongdrivetotheHanoiairportThereislittletoreportofaslowtrip.Weleftat8.00amandstoppedonlyforlunch.Itwasslowinthevalleywithamaximumof40kphbutonthehighwaythesteeproadspreventedusgoinganyfaster.HoweveronceweweredownfromthemountainsintotheflatRedRiverdeltathetrafficwasslowedbyroad-works.ThewholeHighway6appearedtobeanalmostcontinuousroadconstructionzoneuntilwefinallyreachedtheFreewayleadingthelastsectionintoHanoi.Onthemountainwediscoveredthatthemanyroadsidestallssellingorchidsweresellingstockthathadbeenillegallypilferedfromtheforests.Wepassedmanyplywoodfactorieswithveneersleftouttodryinthesun.Theseincludedsomeveneersofwhitecedar.Forawhilewewereabletoreachspeedsof90kphuntilwereachedthecitylimitsandencounteredendlessmotorcyclesandtrafficlights.Despiteelectriccyclescostingonly$US500andmotorcyclescostingover$1500therewereveryfewelectriccyclesalthoughtheproportionwentupdramaticallywhenwereachedHue.Mostoftheelectriccycleswereusedbystudentswhoallhadtoweardistinctiveuniformstoschoolandpayfees.WetravelledacrosstowntopickupanotherfreewaytotheairportwherewedischargedPutwhowasflyingbacktoBangkokandrushedtothedomesticterminalwhereconfusionandchaosprevailedatthecheck-inwithPoohavingtopurchaseanextrafareforIngwhowasn’tontheAirline’smanifest.Wemadetheflightwithnominutestosparethankstoaquickandeasysecuritycheck.TheflighttoDaNangwasuneventfulwithnothingtoseefromtheplanebutwhenwearrivedinDanangitwasraining.WeweremetbyNitt,aVietnamesestudentofThaiandJapaneselanguages.SheaccompaniedonourtwobusesthatlabouredthoughthedarknessandmuchslowtraffictogetustoHueinthreehours.AlmosteveryroadjourneywehavemadeinVietnamhasbeenunderestimatedintimebyatleastanhourandthiswasnodifferent.WecheckedintotheVinaaverycomfortablehotelandthenafterhandinginourdirtylaundrytothereceptionsetoffforalatedinneratanearbyrestaurant.Theitemonthemenuwasahotpot.It
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wasthoughhotinmorewaysthanoneandindicatedthatwehadleftNorthVietnamandarrivedinSouthVietnamnotedforhavingmuchspicierfood.
Day 7 Tuesday, 20th January Hué World Heritage
Afteraninterestingmorewesternstylebreakfastatthehotelwegatheredat8.30foratourofHué.Wewereintroducedtoourlocalguide,Huy,whospokeverygoodEnglishandwasaUniversitygraduatetourguidewithamajorinEnglish.WithBobandJudimissingaffectedbyalurgiandadesireforaquietdaytherewereall14abletosqueezeintoasinglebusandimmediatelyheadedtotheCitadel.Herewewentonathree-hourworkingtourandlearntnotonlyabouttheroyaltyofthepastandtheirpre-eminentpositionbutmuchaboutVietnamandmanysocialissues.Forexample,welearntthateunuchswereveryimportantpeopleandoftenamassedalotofwealthandtheeunuchsactuallyvolunteeredfortherolebecauseoftheprivilegesthatwentwithbecomingthefosterfathersfortheprincesoftheroyalhousehold.TheVietnameserulersthoughwereawareofthepowerandinfluenceoftheeunuchsandtriedtocounterbydeliberatelyexcludingthemfromanycounselinvolvingdecisions.SomeRoyalhouseholdsmusthavebeenverylargeasthefirstEmperorhad142children.TheThirdEmperorhadnone.TherewassomuchmorewelearntaboutthepowersandprivilegesofroyaltyandthefeudalsystemsodespisedbytheVietnamesesocialiststhatitwasonly25yearsaftertheendoftheVietnamWarthattheGovernmentstartedrestorationoftheCitadelthathadbeenthesceneofintensefightingin1968thathaddestroyedmuchoftheverysignificantsite.OnceworkbeganaidedbythePolishGovernmentwithin11yearthesitewasinscribedontheWorldHeritageListalongwithothercomponentsincludingothersitesthatwevisitedparticularlytheThienMuPagodaandtheKhaiDinhTomb.AfteremergingfromtheForbidden(purple)CityoftheCitadelwewenttoalovelylunchofmainlyporkspringrollsandporkandnoodles.FromtherewewenttothePagodawithsevenlevels.InfrontofthepagodaweboardedaDragonboatforatripupthePerfumeRiver.WeallthoughtthatitwouldbeareturnvoyagebutweresurprisedwhentheboatpulledintothebankandweweretoldthatwewouldbereturningtoHuebyourbuswaitingforus
abovetheriverbank.HoweverthatwasnotbeforewehadexploredthemagnificentroyaltombforanEmperorwhodiedin1925.ThepreparatorycraftsmanshipprecededtheEmperor’sdeathbyseveralyearsandcontinuedsixyearsafterhisdeath.Gillianwasmostimpressedbytheuseofceramicstoadornthisstunningtomb.
WehadsomefreetimeattheVinahotelbutmostoptedtoutilizeittoexplorethemarketsordosomeshopping.OurdinnertonightwasnotsospicybutveryniceespeciallytheduckstewandimprovedmorewithsomeDanangwine.ThatwastoppedthoughwhenweoptedforcoffeeneartheVinawhereonepersonwhoshallremainnameless(andseveralothers)indulgedinrumcoffee,adelightfulbrew.
Day 8 Wednesday, 21st January
To Bach Ma National Park and Hoi An Theplanwastobeontheroadby8.30butweweremovingat8.25.(Thisasunusual.)Howeverwedidn’tquitegetaway.AstaffcheckofJennifer’sroomattheVinafoundacushionthatshehadleftbehindtodisposeof.Theysentamotorcyclecouriertoreturnittoher.About10minutesafterleavinghedrewupbesideourbusandpassedthecushionthroughthebuswindowwhilewewerestillonthemove.About40kilometressouthofHuewepassedashallowlakewithfishingenclosuresacrossit.Inthemorningmistsitwasmostattractive.Alas,wedidn’thaveanopportunitytocapturetheimageofthistranquilscene.IttranspiredthatthislakewasDamGauHaiandwhileadmiringthisweturnedoffthebusyhighwaytoentertheBachMaNationalPark.WestoppedataveryemptyVisitorCentreatthebottomofthemountainthatwasblastingoutveryloudmusic.
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 9
Theunderemployedattendanttherehadnomoretodothanthegatekeeperwhoraisedthetrafficbarriertoallowusintothepark.BachMahadbeenaFrenchhillsettlementretreattoescapefromtheoppressiveheatonthecoastallowlands.Thiswasevidentnotonlyfromthelargeandslowlydecayingbuildingsnearthetopbutbytheroadleadingtothemountainsummit.Itwasallwellconstructedandcementallthewaywithnopotholesandonlyoneothervehicleusedtheroadthisday.Inalandwhereroadselsewherearelackingthiswasanexampleofglaringcolonialextravagance.
Atthesummit(orwheretheroadended)themaingroupsetoffindensecloudtowalktothesummit.CloudobscuredmuchofthepotentialviewsatthesummitbutnotthecavesandtunnelsdugbytheVietCongduringtheVietnamWarwhenafullbattalionwasbasedhere.ItwasherethattheFearlessLeader’slurgicaughtupwithhim.IthadlaidlowothersduringthetourincludingJudi,BobandSusohedidn’tsetofftothetopwherethecloudmadeitdifficulttoseemuch.WethenallretreatedtoaRestaurantthatwasill-stockedtofeedagroupof19.LuckilyPooandInghadforesightandpurchasedthemakingsatthemarketneartheVisitorCentrebeforehand.Wethensetoffonanotherwalktoawaterfallthatyieldedlittleinobservationsbeforeboardingthebusestodescendthemountainwherevisibilitywasreducedtomeremetres.Atthebottomtherewasmuchconsternationfromthedriversbecauseofsmokebillowingfromthebuses.Itturnedouttobeoverheatedfrontbrakepads.ThenitwasbackonthehighwayheadingtoHoiAnabout160kilometressouth.TheroadworkswerealmostcontinuousexceptwhenweenteredalongtunnelthroughthemountainsnearDanangthatseemedtobeabout10kilometres.Oneofthecharacteristicsofthedrivingwastheincessantbeepingofthehornswhenovertakinganyvehicle
andtheverychancyoccasionsofovertakinglargetruckswhentherewason-comingtraffic.OurHotelinHoiAnwasverycomfortable.ItwasherethattheFearlessLeaderfinallypassedout.Sonomorecanbesaidoftheevening
Day 9
Thursday, 22nd January Hoi An World Heritage site
TheFearlessLeaderwasstillhungoverthismorningfromthelurgisowhilehesleptSuandthewomenwentonashoppingexpeditiontogetsomeclothing.LaterhebecameverticalandjoinedSuinexploringthisculturalWorldHeritagesiteAbout11.30F.L.wasrousedenoughtoexploretheancienttownwhichhadinthemiddleagesbeenabustlinginternationalseaportwithshipsfromJapan,ChinaandPortugalcomingheretotrade.AstheharboursiltedupandtherewerelargershipsthetrademovedelsewhereandsoHoiAnremainedasasortoftimecapsuleofthearchitecturalinfluencesofforeigntraders.Therearemanyoldsurvivingtimberframehousesofthisboomperiod(1,107),lotsofreligiousbuildingsandpagodasandmanymeeting/communityhalls.ThemostidentifiablecomponentthoughwastheJapanesecoveredbridge.
JapanesecoveredbridgeintheAncientCityofHoiAn
isthecentreoftheWorldHeritagesite
Everyoneenjoyedthefreeday.Jennifergotcarriedawaywithhershoppingandisanticipatingtakinganextrabaghomewithher.Somewenttothebeachsomejustsaunteredaroundsamplingthecuisine.AtnightmostofthewomenwenttotheRedGeckoRestaurantthatwaswellnamed.Theyactuallyhavearedgeckopet.ThecrewplusSimonandULNmadethemselvesaseafoodbanquetbackatourhotel.Itwasaproductiverecoverydayforeveryone.
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 10
Day 10 Friday, 23rd January
My Son Sanctuary World Heritage site Themorning’snewswasthatthedreadedlurgihadlaidlowGill.Sheseemedsostrickenthatduringthedaymostpeoplewereconsideringwhatoptionsmightbeavailableuntilsherecovered.Inthemorningshelookedapalegreybutbyeveninghercolourhadreturnedandshewasdeterminedtocontinuethetourwithusevenwitha4.30amstart.WewerealittleconfusedwhenatruckcamearoundplayingMrWhippylikemusic.Insteadofdispensingice-creamsitassummonsingresidentsinthekindestwaytobringforththeirgarbage.MySonSanctuarywastheseventhWorldHeritagesitewehaveencounteredonthistour.WewereintroducedtothesitebythevolubleguideMabo.MySonandHoiAnwerebothinscribedontheWorldHeritageListin1999atthesamesession.ThissitelikeAngkorWatwasuncoveredfromthejunglebytheFrench.HoweversincethentherehasbeenfurtherdeteriorationnotablythebombcratersresultingfromtheVietnamWar.
Theguidebooksmainomissionindescribingthisancientculturalsitewasthatitseemedtobedevotedtoworshipingworshippingsexorratherthemalephallicsymbolsthathaveallbeennowremoved.Whatisremarkableisthequalityoftheoriginalbricksusedandthefactthatnomortarseemedtobeused.Itseemsthesecretingredientthathelpedthebricksandthestructuressurvivesolongwashoneyblendedwiththeclayandthefactthebricksurfacewaspreciselyflatalthoughandjoinsinthebrickswerebevelled.Thebrickswereofsuchqualitythattheycouldbecarvedandmanyofthecarvingsstillsurviveinaveryrecognizableway.Howeverdespiteverydeepfoundationsthebest-preservedtowernowhasalean.Workisproceedingtorenovateandrepairsomeofthestructuresbutthereisalotofworktobedone
OurvisittothesiteconcludedwithadisplayofsomeexquisiteVietnamesedancingandmusic.Thedramaticmusicfeatureafluteplayedbyamusicianpracticingcircularbreathingwhoheldanoteforanamazingtimeinadisplayofshowmanship.OneofthemoreremarkablethingsnotedduringthevisittothissiteisthatvirtuallythewholeformerjunglehasbeenreplacedbyaforestofAustralianwattletrees.WhetherthiswastheresultofdeforestationduringtheVietnamwarornotcouldn’tbeestablished.BackatHoiAnafteranoodlelunchthewomenandBobheadedofftoacookinglesson.Themaindishpreparedwasgreenpapayasaladwithprawnsandporkandspringrollsandricepancakes.Itwasashoppinglesson.Theyallarrivedbackwellfedatabout6.30andthemalecontingenttookofftotheRedGeckoforamealtheydidn’tcookforthemselves.
Day 11 Saturday, 24th January
Hoi An to Dalat Thedaystarteduncomfortablyearlywithusbeingpackedandreadyby4.30foraquickbreakfastatourfavouritehotelandthenboardingthebusforthehourrunuptoDalat.WithlittletraffictherewaslittleblastofhornsunlikeourdashtoMySonSanctuarythedaybefore.Wearrivedincomfortabletimeforour6.30flightbutalasitwasnottobe.TheairlineannouncedthattheplanehadbeendelayedinDaLatbybadwetheralthoughwhenwearrivedinDaLattherewasnosignofanythingbutthemostbenignweather.WhenweboardedtheRussianbuiltplaneitappearedtohavebeenwaitingonthetarmac.Perhapsthepilotsleptin.Somewishedwecouldhavetoo.FlyingoverthemountainsfromDanangtoDaLatonecouldn’tbuthelpwonderabouthowmanytimesthesesamemountainshavebeenoverflownbyAmericanmilitaryaircraftsprayingtankerloadsofAgentOrangeandthelastimpactthatthishashadonthiscountry.Noenvironmentalassessmentwouldhavejustifiedsuchbarbaricactionsthatdestroyedsomuchofthecountryside,thenaturalenvironmentandfornonetmilitarygains.Morecouldbesaid.SomuchofVietnam’sformernaturalforestisnowgrowingAustralianwattlesandeucalypts.Wethentriedtosqueeze12peopleandalltheirluggageintooneMercedesalittlesmallerthanaSprinter.Itwasanobviousimpossibilityresolvedbyfourcrammingintoataxiandracingustoourhotel.ItseemsthattheDaLatairportisatleast40
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 11
kilometresfromDaLatCityandweheardtoMercedesclearthetrafficinitswayasweexceedthestandard80kph.Wedroppedoffourluggageatourhotel,thePinkHouseasourroomsweren’treadyandweremetbyanewguideTutwhopreferredtobecalledEagle.Tut’sgirlfriendisinSydneystudyingbusinessandhasbeentherefortwoyears.Tut’sinterestinAustraliahasencouragedhimtopickupmuchofthevernacular.OurfirststopwastheRoyalSummerPalacewherethelastKingofVietnamheldcourtbeforeevacuatingtoPariswherehelivedoutthelastofthis85yearsinluxurywhilehiscountrywentthroughtwowars.Apartfromhislavishlifestyleheisrememberedforgivingthecountryitsnamethathasmeaningandinspirespassion.UntilitwasnamedVietnamitwasknownasAmmanorCochinChina.
Afterlunchwewentforcoffeeatanicecaféwithaviewbeforegoingtotherailwaystationandcatchingaquainttrain.Itwasadvertisedasasteamtrainridebutthesteamtrainwasonlyforshow.Ourtrainwashauledbyadiesellocobutitwasarealblast.Theengineerwasblastingthehornthatmadeourbuseshornssoundweakformostofthewayonthe8kmjourneyWewereadvisedthatwewouldbepassingthroughflowersallthewaybutitwasn’timmediatelyapparentthattheendlessgreenhousesmadeofbambooandplasticwerenotonlyforalittlehydroponicsandvegetablesbutadiversearrayofflowersforthecutflowertrade.Flowershavemadethishilltownretreatat1500metresabovesealevelfamousashaveartichokesthatareanimprobableemblemofthecity.DaLatseemstobetoVietnamwhattheAthertonTablelandsaretoCairns—aplacetoescapefromtheoppressivetropicalheatofthecoastlowlandsandanopportunitytogrowcropsthatcan’tsurviveinlowlandconditions.TheFrenchknewagood
thing.Theyabandonedover1,000grandvillaswhentheyweredefeatedinthewarofindependence.Ourlastexcursionwastowalkfromtherailwaystationtoanearbypagoda.Thiswassomethingwehadn’timaginedforthegrandiosityandcraftsmanship.Itisahugeandstillevolvingcomplex.Theceramiccraftwasdazzlingbutthewholecomplexdefiesanadequatedescriptionsinceitissocontemporaryandstillevolving.ItwasonascaleofimaginativedesignsimilartothewhitePagodanearChiangRaithatweoncesaw.Therewasonemoresurpriseinstorebeforetheday’send.Weheadedofftoawaterfall.Toviewthewaterfallinvolveddescendingandascendingseveralstairs.TheRTH’schargedoffbuttheoneswithlesshuffandpuffoptedtogodownandupontherollercoaster.ForFearlessLeaderwhohasdrivenCoasters(buses)upanddownsomeexcitingtracksthiscoasterridehadmoreadrenalinepumping.Atonebendthosenotgametotakethecontrolswereurginghimtoeaseoffonthebrakesandletitrip.Commonsenseandself-survivalprevailed.Inthewasbacksomeofthehuffandpuffhadvanishedfromtheurgers.AllbutJennytooktheeasybutlessdramaticrideupthehill.WereturnedtothePinkHousehotelandtookupourluggageupmanystairsanddiscoveredthatJudiwhohadmissedtheafternoonactivities
Day 12
Sunday, 25th January Dalat to Cat Tien National Park
Thedaybeganappropriatelyforthis“LittleParis”withcrispyFrenchbreadrolls.OvernightJudihadbeendiagnosedwithBronchitisandwasloadedupwithmedicationsandinstructionsbyaVietnamesedoctorwhoX-rayedanddidallthediagnostictestsataprivatehospitalforatotalfeeof$50.HowevertheadvicewasthatsheandBobshouldskiptheCat
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 12
TienNationalParkandmeetusinSaigon48hourshence.WesaidourfarewellandgotawayfromthePinkHouseHotelat9.30andheadeduptotheCrazyHouse.Thisiscertainlyanamazingpieceofcreativityandarchitecture.DrDongVietNga,istheowner,designer,architect,structuralengineersandconstructiondirectorofHangNgaVilla(akaCrazyHouse).ShestudiedarchitectureinMoscowfrom1959to1972andworkedinconventionalarchitectureuntilshemoverfromHanoitoDalatwhenshedecidedtobuildthisvillabasedonunshapedcubeswithcurveswithoutdependingonanyclassicalprinciples.ShestartedworkontheVillain1990anditisstillunderconstruction.Sheaimstofinishtheprojectin2020.AfterleavingDalit,itseemedlikearoadlinedwithendlesshousesfromthetimewedepartedthefreewayneartheairport.ThiswasoneofthetwohighwaysfromDalittoSaigonandevenonaSundaywithfewertrucksontheroadandnomassesofchildrengoingtoorfromschoolitwasbusyandsowasourbushornWestoppedforlunchatapopularroadsiderestaurantandagainalittlefurtheronforacomfortstop.TheonlyremarkablethingtonoteaboutourjourneythoughwastheextentofcoffeegrowinginthispartofVietnam.Vietnamisnowoneoftheworld’smajorcoffeeexportingnations.WeeventuallysqueezedintotheGreenGroveLodgeneartheCatTienNationalPark.Alasthebushadmoretroublesqueezingoutandthebranchhadtobeamputatedtoenablethebustoescape.Oncewehadbeenimplantedinourroomswestillhadplentyofdaylightleft.Poosuggestthatweshouldgatherat4.00pmtowalktotheNationalParkentrance.Wegatheredasscheduledbutinsteadwalkedtotheriverwhereweboardedtwoboatsthatwerecharteredtotakeusonarivercruise.LittledidwerealizethattheDongSongRiverwasboundaryoftheNationalPark?Despiteourdiscomfortinthetwosmallrivercraft,itwasafascinatingtwohoursonthewaterobservingthechangingsceneon-shoreandthewildlifealongtheriver.Onetreewaswhitewithroostingegrets.Elsewhereflocksofgreyishheronsdisturbedfromtheirroostscircledaboveus.Howeverseeingaleaflesstreeintheopencladinnothingbutgreenparakeetswasthemostmemorablesceneaswellasthesmogenhancedsunset.Itwasagreatafternoonoutingandcompensatedforthelessthaninspiringsceneryonourbusjourney.
TheeuphoriaofthetripthoughwastemperedforSuwholearntnewsonherarrivalbackatGreenHopeLodgethattheeldestofherfivesistershadjustpassedawayinJapan.Suoptedtogrieveprivatelyratherthanimpactonthegroupspirit.
Day 13 Sunday, 26th January (Australia Day)
Cat Tien National Park At5.00amatruckpasseddownthenearbyroadgivingthreehorn-blastsasregular10seconds.Thequestionastherealotoftraffic/animals/peopleontheroadorwasthisareveillecallforallandsundry.Breakfastofcoffee/tea,eggs/noodlesandwater-melonwaswaitingforusat5.45am.At6.30amwewalkeddowntheroadtocatchthesmallferryacrosstherivertoreachtheNationalParkHQ.HerewedepositedourbackpacksandjoinedDuyenforournatureguidedwalkthroughthepark.DuyenhadbeenlocalwhoservedintheArmybutwhentheNationalParkopenedin1992helefttheArmytoworkinthepark.Hesaidhehadnotalentsasanaturalistthenbutseeingwhatpeoplewereinterestedinhebecameafastlearnerandhewasveryexpert.
Theideathathikingpoleswouldbenecessarywasmostlywrongaswestrolleddownthewell-formedroadwithcamerasandbinocularsexploringtheforestsforallformsofnature.
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 13
Wesawnativebees,bothsmallcolonial(similartoAustralian)andalargesolitaryone(sizeofrhinocerosbeetlegatheringpollen),termites,cycadsandvarioustrees.HoweverbeforewehadevenpassedtheferryDuyenspiedamovementinthetreesandwasabletogiveeveryoneaveryclearviewofafemaleadultYellow-cheekedGibbonswingingatfullpaceacrossthecanopymuchfasterthanwecouldwalk.Wesawallsortsofotherwildlifeincludingsquirrels,andamousedeerthatatfirstsightscurryingacrosstheroadwasthoughttobeagiantrat.Therewasanamazingarrayofbirdsseen.34werelistedbuttheremayhavebeenmorerangingHornbillstobarbets,Mynasandparakeetstosunbirdsanddrongos,spider-huntersandpigeonstoheronsandbulbuls.Itwasabirdwatcher’sdelight.MeanwhileULNandotherswerediscoveringbutterflies,mothsandvariousplantsandforthemitwasanaturalistdelight.TherewasthenatimeforR&RaswefoundournewdigsforthenightandhadasplendidtunaandnoodlelunchpreparedforusbyourThaicrew.WhilstrelaxingonthedeckofPterocarpusthegroupshadclosesightingsofamaturefemalegibbonmovingaroundatthebackofthehousewithheryoungbabyalmoststrappedtohebreast.Ifthefirsthalfofthedaywasimpressivetherewasmuchbettertocomeafterlunch.ULNandSimontookofftoexploreCrocodileLakeDaLaionatestofendurancebefittingCrocodileDundee.TherestofthegroupoptedforthetrucktourwithDuyeninadifferentdirectionandalargelydifferenthabitatofgrasslandswhiletheThaiteamremainedbehindtoprepareareallysumptuousdinnerforthosebackattheParkHQ.WesawlittleheadingoutuntilwereachedthegrasslandswithsomeartificialwetlandsnearaRangerstation.Itturnedoutthatthereare20rangerstationsaroundtheNationalParkof720,000hectaresfor140Rangers.Wemetsomeoftherangers.Theyhavesixdaysamonthoffinoneblocktojointheirfamilies.Theafternoontallyofbirdspeciesalmostoutdidthemorningtally.Welisted32speciesbutoursightingswereclearerandweallfeltthatwecouldrecognizethemifwesawthemagainwithmuchmorecertainty.ThelistwasjustasvariedfromagreenpeahenandIndianrollertoAsianbarowletandRed-earednightjarandfromarangeofwetlandbirdsincludingaWoolly–neckedStorktoacloseupviewofasunbirdbuildinghisnest.ItwasadelightfultourforallbutPamwhodecidedtobraveherillnesstojoinusbutwhohadtobetakenhomeearly.
Thosewhoremainedcontinuednotchingupnotonlybirdsightingsbutalsotwodeerspecies,severalbarkingdeerandasambadeer..
Day 14
Monday, 27th January Cat Tien National Park to Saigon
Intheearlymorningmanypathswerefollowed.ThreeofthewomenoptedtovisitthePrimateRescueCentre,FearlessLeaderandSustrolledalonganewlyformedcementpathalongtheriverbankandthroughthetallginger,TheThaicrewfocussedondomesticchoresinPterocarpus.WhatIntrepidGuideandSimonwereuptowecouldonlytrytoimagine.AsitturnedoutduringthenightULNhadgoneoutaloneandwadedkneedeepintothelakeandthenwaiteduntilthecrocodilesacceptedhimandthenmovedaboutasifhewasn’ttherewhilehesnappedaway.Crocodilesthoughweren’ttheonlythingsthatheandSimonphotographedduringthisadventurousexcursion.Itwasaveryproductivemorning—AND—moreremarkably,theyreturnedtotheVisitorCentrerightonschedule.Mostwereamazed.WewaitwiteageranticipationtoviewhisimagesthatheisgoingtoallowtobeplacedonPicasatobeavailabletoanyoneinvitedbyEmail.MeanwhileGail,DianneandGillhadamostinterestingvisittothePrimatesCentrethatwasrunbyamostinterestingEnglishwomanlawyerwhodevotesherlifetoprimates.Itcostsabout$9,000toprepareeachanimalforreleasebackintothewild.ThefundsareraisedbysocietiesoverseasbuttheCentrerunsonashoestringbudgetwithoutcertaintyoftenurethatisrenewedeveryfiveyears.ItwasamoresubduedgroupreflectingonsomeverywonderfulexperiencesandwildlifesightingsaswetooktheferryacrosstheDongSongtoourwaitingbus.WewentbacktotheGreenHope
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 14
LodgetocollectourlargerluggageandhavelunchbeforesettingofftotheSmokusMaximusofVietnam,Saigon(akaHCMC).Itwasaninterestingjourneythroughcoffee,rubber,andcashewplantations,alargelakesupportingfloatingvillagesandquietcountrylanestoasuperfreewayintothecityof10millionpeople.Movingaroundthiscitywithits5M+motorcycleswasreallydauntingaswefoundaswetookawalktoarestaurantfordinnertowitnessonemotorcyclecrash.ThereissuchamarkeddifferencebetweenHanoiandSaigonapartfromtheclimate.Thewomenweardifferentclothes(pyjamastyle)andeverythingisbustlierandmoreeconomicallyfocussed.Thehighlightofthenightwasn’tF.L.takinghissecondfalloftheeveningasheandSuwalkedtothemarkets.Ratheritwasontheirwayhomewhentheywereorientingthemselvesontherightstreetandapickpocketbumpedintohim.FortunatelyhehadgivenhiswallettoSuforsafekeepingearlierintheevening.Theonlygainforthemusclypickpocketwashispocket-diarythatshegraciouslyreturnedaminuteortwolateraftertheyhadgoneon.
Day 15 Wednesday, 28th January Saigon to Mekhong Delta
WewerepickedupatthehotelbyaFourSeasonsbusandaFourSeasonsguide,Diep.ItwasaninterestingexplanationofVietnamandlifeinSaigonfromaguidewithfoursisterswhocomesfromasmallvillageof130peoplenearHoiAn.Thefirstthingwelearntisthatthereare9.5millionmotorcyclesinSaigon.Wehadsignificantlyunderestimatedthenumber.Diephastwo—oneforworkandanotherglitziermodeltocatchgirlfriends.WealsolearntalittleofhowlifechangedintheSouthafterthetakeoverbytheNorth.ItseemsthatDiep’sfatherwhowasagainsttheformerSouthVietnamCatholicdominatedgovernmentandfoughtfortheVietCongwasnotimpressedbytheresponseoftheconqueringNorthernersoncetheyassumedpower.Ourfirststopwasatourwasatouristtrap/comfortstopjustpriortojoiningthefreeway.Howeveritwascompensatedforbythestorybehindthecraft.Thelacquer-warehasevolvedbeingcreatedbyvictimsofAgentOrange.ThisaffectedDiep’sparentsandhundredsofthousandsofVietnamese.TheMekhongDeltaisthehomefor19millionVietnamese.ItwasdevelopedbytheFrench,whocreatedmanydrainagecanalsandturneditintoanenormousfoodbowl,allowingVietnamtobecome
thelargestexporterofriceintheworld.MostissoldtoJapan.Itwas70kilometresfromSaigontotheDelta.Inthedeltaareawewereintroducedtoanotherpagodathatbeganinthe19thCentury(1849)andshowssometraitsofFrenchinfluenceinthearchitecture.ThenitwasofftogetonaboatforarideontheMekhong.Thistookustoatouristtrapwhereweexploredthegardens,weresungtobybuskers(albeitverywellpresented)andwerethenledtoa“funride”insampansdownacanalverycongestedwithsampanscomingtocollecttouristsorfittingthemoutwithconicalhatsanddeliveringthemdownstream.Itwashardworkforthepaddlecrew.
AboutthistimeagastricwoghitF.L.andforafewhourstherewasabluraswewenttoanotherrestaurantandyetanotherforlunchalldeliveredbyariverboat.Thenitwasbackonthebusat3.38forwhatweweretoldwasathree-hourruntoourhomestay.WecrossedtwobranchesoftheMekhongonceonabridgebuiltbytheAustraliangovernmentasagiftandanotherbuiltbytheJapanese.TheyhelpeddeliverustothelargestcityintheDelta,CanThothathasapopulationof2millionpeople.HoweverCanThowasn’tthedestination.Itjusthappenedtobewherewerendezvousedwithourhostforthenightwhometusinalargishsampan.Loadingthe16peopleintothissampanfromthemostprimitiverampinthedarkwasachallenge.WhenwewereallaboardthevesselwaspushedclosetothePlimsollline.Thenwesetoffinthedarknessforwhatseemedlikeanindeterminatedestinationandanill-definedtimeschedule.Plyingacanaloramazeofcanalsinthedarknesswasanuncomfortablefeeling,exacerbatedbythecrampedconditions.Howeveritgotworseaswefoundthatthesampanwasprogressivelyslowlysinkingaspeoplestartedfellingwasrisingaroundtheirfeet.Aspanicwasabouttobreakoutwearrivedatourdestinationhomestay.
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 15
ItwasverybasicbutcomfortableespeciallyforF.L.whohadalargevomitingboutpriortoboardingthesampan.
Day 16 Thursday, 29th January
Mekhong Delta to Saigon Iftheboatridethepreviouseveningwasachallengetheridethismorningwouldoutdoitinanumberofwaysexceptfortheveilofdarkness.Wewerepromisedalargersampanandthatwasdeliveredandweweremorecomfortable.Howeverbeforewehadgone500metrestheenginecoughed,backfiredandstopped.Ourhelmsmandidn’thesitate.Hedivestedhimselfofhisouterpants,jumpedintothemudandtieduptoajetty.Hethengrabbedacrank-handleandtookofftowalkhomewhilewewaitedandspeculated.Soonanothersampandrivenbyourtrustyhelmsmandrewupbesideus.Itwasthesameleakyboatthathadgivenusangstthepreviousevening.Ourordealthoughwasn’tover.Wewerefollowingadifferentroutetogettothefloatingmarketbutthetidewasatitslowest.Thatresultedinuscollectingmoreplasticaroundthepropandtouchingbottomseveraltimes.Howeveratonestagehavingclearedtheproptheboatremainedstuckinthemuddespitethebestmusclefromourtrustyhelmsman.Eventuallyhereceivedassistancefromanotheryoungmaninalargervesselthatwaswaitingforthetidetoliftitoffthemud.Thenwithskilfulmanoeuvringandcarefulnavigationwemanagedtogetthoughthisshallowsandoutontotheriverwherewechangedintoalargervesseltoexplorethefloatingmarkets.Weweresurprisedthattheleakthepreviouseveningdidn’treappear.TheFloatingMarketwasveryinterestingbecauseitseemedtoworkonawholesalebasiswithlotsofwomeninsampanspullingintostockupwithretailsupplies.Itseemedlikeachaoticscenewithallsortsofcraftmillingaroundthewaterstayingjustclearofthemainchannelwherehugebargesloadedtothegunnelwithsand,gravelortimberwereconstantlypassing.Wesampledthefruitfromapineapplewholesalebeforemakingourwayacrosstheriverandupanothercanal.Fortunatelythetidehadrisenandthiscanalwasjustalittlewider. We stopped at a noodle factory. It wasn’t an industrial scale plant, just a backyard operation with a handful of people working it. Two people dispensed out the rice powder slurry on to a large circular hot plate then as each was steamed for 15 to 30 seconds before being lifted off and left to
dry. There were hundreds of bamboo trays used to dry out the large rice paper sheet. When dried, these sheets are fed into a shredder and turned into noodles. The quality of the noodles apparently depends on the proportion of rice to cassava flour with 100% rice being the best noodles.
Thenbeganthethree-hourtripbacktoSaigon.Wehadplannedtovisitaschoolonthewaybutthishadnotbeenproperlyarrangedanddidn’teventuatesothegiftsfortheschoolwillbedistributedtoschoolsinThailand’sHilltribearea.Apartfromlunchalargeroadhouse,therewasnoadventurereachingSaigonwherewefarewelledoutGuideDiepandDriverHai.Thenat6.00pmPootookusaroundthecornerforourfinaldinnerataveryfinevegetarianrestaurant.TherewereformalthankstoPooandhisteam,Ing,SamiandDawhoguidedusthroughthelast17days
Day 17 Friday, 30th January
Farewell Vietnam ItwasdifficulttoappreciatethatourOdysseywasofficiallyended.Howevertwoteamssetoutearlyafterbreakfasttotakeinasmuchaspossiblepriortoourdeparture.Thewalkingwomenchargedoffona40-minutechallengetoreachtheNotreDameCathedral.UncleLongNose,FearlessLeaderandSutookacabandmiraculouslyranintoeachotherattheCathedral.WhilethewomenwalkedbackshoppingonthewayU.L.N.,SuandF.L.stoppedinattheIndependencePalace.TheIndependencePalacewasattheepicentreoftheVietnam/AmericanWar.Itwaswherethetankscrashedthroughthegatesto“liberate”SouthVietnamandthenproceededtomercilesslypunishthosewhohadopposedthis“liberation”.Thustisinterestingtoreflectalmost40yearsafterthatdramaticeventhowmuchtheconquerorshavesincehadtocompromisetoholdontotheSouthandtoadvancethisamazingnationof90millionpeople.
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 16
Epilogue Reflectingbackonsomuchover18daystherearesomanyexperiencestoremember.Thankfullyduetomoderntechnologythegroupthroughimageshasbrilliantlyrecordedthese.Manynewfriendshipswereformedandindelibleimpressionswereleft.ForthisdiaristthephilosophyofUncleLongNoseresonatesmoststrongly.Whenaskedwhatitrequirestobeagreatnaturalist,IntrepidGuidesaidthatitwasfirstnecessary“tobreakoutofsociety’sframework”.Thathehascertainlydone.Tosomeextentoursenseofadventureandourpreparednesstogetoffthewell-beatentouristtrackdemonstratesthatweareallnotfullyconformingtosociety’sframework.
Japanese Bridge in World Heritage Hoi An
Manifest
Diane Goodwillie 8 Kanooka Avenue Coolum Beach QLD 4573 Phone: 07 5446 2542 Mob: 0406 605 700 Email: [email protected]
Pam Alick 57 Primrose Terrace Red Hill QLD 4059 Phone: 07 3369 2749 Email: [email protected]
Judi and Bob Sloan 144 Matron Porter Drive Narrawallee NSW 2539 02 4455 4340 Email: [email protected]
Simon Sutton PO Box 8199 Gladstone QLD 4680 Phone: 07 4978 5015 Email: [email protected]
Gillian Whitworth 42 Glendale Road Glendale QLD 4711 Phone: 07 4936 2617 Email:: [email protected]
McDonald, Jennifer 2 Baronet Court PELICAN WATERS Q 4551 Mob: 0400 686 093 Email: [email protected]
Ian Morris Intrepid Guide PO Box 189 NOONAMAH NT 0837 Phone: (08) 8988 2484 Mob: 0428 589 980 E-mail: [email protected]
Gail Metcalfe 14 Banksia Park Rd Katoomba NSW 2780 Phone: 02 4782 1573 Mob: 0418 434 167 E-mail: [email protected]
Tokiko (Su) Dawson 94 Bennetts Road CAMP HILL QLD 4152 Phone: (07) 3395 4004 Mob: 0413 336 295 Email: [email protected]
John Sinclair Fearless Leader 1/32 Weston Street COORPAROO Q 4151 Phone: (07) 3397 5889 Mob: 0418 650 535 E-mail: [email protected]
Organizers
Host Organization: Natural Focus Email: [email protected]
Poo Chookiet Kananusatkul 129/1 Moo 4, A-Ngiw Road Soi 4, T. Robwiang A. Muang Chiang Rai 57000 Tel/: 6653 758 249 Mob 6685 888 6869 Email: [email protected]
Poo’s Mum: Patchurin Uttano
Sami: [email protected]
Ing: [email protected]
Da: Phattarim kamsub Guides:
HanoiandtheNorth ChungHue HuyMySonSanctuary MaboDalat Tut(Eagle)CatTien DuyenMekhong: Diep
Thelastsymbolmeansnofamilyviolence
Independence,Freedom,Happiness
DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 17