2015 vietnam diary - john sinclair study tours/2015 vietnam diary.pdf · hanoi is a city of 8...

17
DIARY Natural Focus’s 2015 Vietnam Tour 13 th to 30 th January Sunset on Halong Bay a great introduction to Vietnam During 18 very full days in Vietnam a group of 11 Aussies, all veterans from various GO BUSH Safaris, made a tour of Vietnam organized by Poo who co-opted some wonderful Vietnamese local guides for various parts of the tour that went from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. The tour included: Three village homestays with three different ethic groups, and a variety of accommodation 7 of the 8 Vietnamese World Heritage sites: Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) (Hanoi) Imperial Citadel of Thang Long (Hanoi) Halong Bay (Natural Site) Trang An Landscape Complex (Mixed site) Complex of Hue Monuments The ancient City of Hoi An The My Son Sanctuary Seeing some of the impacts of the American / Vietnam War 50 years ago. A former Army soldier turned birdwatcher and the son of a Viet Cong soldier who became strongly anti-communist following the North’s victory guided us. We visited three National Parks, Cuc Phuong, Bach Ma and Cat Tien. We travelled almost the full length of the country to see the diversity of the climates, geography, people and culture. We understand why “happiness” is in the Vietnamese motto.

Upload: others

Post on 16-Jul-2020

2 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DIARY

NaturalFocus’s

2015VietnamTour

13thto30thJanuary

SunsetonHalongBayagreatintroductiontoVietnam

During18veryfulldaysinVietnamagroupof11Aussies,allveteransfromvariousGOBUSHSafaris,madeatourofVietnamorganizedbyPoowhoco-optedsomewonderfulVietnameselocalguidesforvariouspartsofthetourthatwentfromHanoitoHoChiMinhCity.

Thetourincluded:• Threevillagehomestayswiththree

differentethicgroups,andavarietyofaccommodation

• 7ofthe8VietnameseWorldHeritagesites:TempleofLiterature(VanMieu)(Hanoi)ImperialCitadelofThangLong(Hanoi)HalongBay(NaturalSite)TrangAnLandscapeComplex(Mixedsite)ComplexofHueMonumentsTheancientCityofHoiAnTheMySonSanctuary

• SeeingsomeoftheimpactsoftheAmerican/VietnamWar50yearsago.

• AformerArmysoldierturnedbirdwatcherandthesonofaVietCongsoldierwhobecamestronglyanti-communistfollowingtheNorth’svictoryguidedus.

• WevisitedthreeNationalParks,CucPhuong,BachMaandCatTien.

• Wetravelledalmostthefulllengthofthecountrytoseethediversityoftheclimates,geography,peopleandculture.

• Weunderstandwhy“happiness”isintheVietnamesemotto.

Page 2: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 2

ArrivinginHanoiMonday,12thJanuary

Therewere11Aussiesinourgroupandtheyarrivedinfivedifferentways.WearestillnotsurehowmanyothersbecauseapartfromPootherewereseveralThaisincludingSami,her16-yearoldsisterDa,andIng,whoallmadetheirownwaytotheHanoiHotelRomance.ThentherewasPat(Poo’smother)whowilljoinusforsixdaysinHanoiwhowasstayinginanearbyhotel.SimonhadarrivedweeksearliertogobirdwatchingwithPooinvariousplaces.ULNarrivefromDarwinafterabumpytripviaKualaLumpur.JudiandBobhadn’tmetGailbeforebuttheypickedheroutofthecrowdattheSydneyAirportbecauseshelookedlikeaGOBUSHsafarist.ThustheywereonthesameflightfromSydneyviaHoChiMinhCitywheretheyhadasmoothtransfertotheirlinktoHanoi.GillianhadtotravelfromRockhamptonandsocouldn’tbeonthesameflightastherestoftheQueenslandcontingent.TherestwereJenny,Pam,Diane,SuandF.L.TheyhadalaterstartinBrisbanebutafteraverybumpyflightthroughmonsooncloudstheyputinacoldfivehoursinGuangzhouwheretheraindidn’tabate.TheyfinallyreachedthebrandneHanoiInternationalterminalatmidnightwhereworkerswerestillunpackingandputtingfinishingtouchestothesuperbnewterminal.ThatwasthejoyandallwentsmoothlyexceptforDiannewhoseluggagedidn’taccompanyherontheflight.Soitwasaftera24hoursonthemovethattheyarrivedattheHanoiRomanceHotel.

EveoftourTuesday,13thJanuary

HanoiTodaywasn’tonPoo’sitinerarythatwasduetobeginon14thJanuary.Wehadallarrivedadayearlytobereadyandtolookaround.ItwasthereforewithsomesurprisethatafteramagnificentbreakfastpoogotustogetherandgaveusanewamendeditinerarythatincludedthisdayforseeingtwoWorldHeritagesitesinHanoiandtheMausoleumofHoChiMinhwhowasthefounderofmodernVietnamhavingleditsreleasefromWesterncolonialrule/influences.ThuswesetoutforadayofactionbeginningwithawalkaroundthecityledbyChungwhowillbeaccompanyingusforthenextsixdays.ChungisanEnglish-speakingVietnameseguidewhohasworkedwithPoopreviouslyandwholivesclosetoourhotel.Hanoiisacityof8millionpeoplewhoseemtohaveatleast5millionmotorcyclesthattheyseemto

crowdmostlyintothepartofthepartsofthecitythatwewereexploring.50%wereparkedand50%weredeterminednottostopforlights,othertrafficorpedestriansandtheyweavedtheirwayaroundwithsuchdexteritythatithadtobeadmiredevenifitwascausingussuchinconvenience.Therewasalmostatotalabsenceofelectricmotorcyclesandthreewheeledmotorcycles(tut-tutorequivalents)wewerelatertolearnthatasadeliberatedisincentivefromowningmotorcarsthegovernmentplacesa100%salestaxonmotorcarsandthismakesthenarrowstreetsmuchlesscongestedthantheywouldotherwisebe.

HanoiBriefingbyPooonourunscheduleddayto

explorethiscity’sculturaltreasures

AfteroursurprisereunionwithPoo’smotherwhowasstayingatanotherhotelwewalkedtotheStJamesRomanCatholiccathedralthatwasbuiltin1886asareplicaoftheNotreDamecathedralinParis.Wedidn’tgetinsidethegrandedificethatlookedalittlegrimyontheexterior.WedidhoweverseesomeinterestingreliefsonthewallssurroundingthecathedralwithaspectaculardepictionofthemostcriticaleventsoftheNewTestament.Alassomeoftheimagerywasobscuredbytheoverheadwire-scapesthatdrapedalmosteverystreetaswell.OurnextstopwasaWorldHeritagesite,theTempleofLiteratureinscribedin2011.Wearrivedatthissitenearthelakewithwonderfulgardensthatwereapparentfromthemomentwealightedfromourtaxis.Thisplaceoflearningthathasexistedforover1,000yearswheretheleadingteachers,especiallyConfucius,arevenerated.AlasitseemsthatteachersinVietnamdonotholdsuchprestigeandweheardthatteachersarepaidaslittleas$US200permonth.Inthetemplethereweregreatstatuestothemostesteemedteachers.Outsideanumberofstudentsinacademicgarbwereposingforformalphotographsinthisplace.Theveryattractivesurroundsofmanicuredgardensand

Page 3: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 3

manyelevatedbonsaitraysaretestamentthegardeningandlearningbelongtogether.WehadlunchinanadjacentrestaurantwherethefoodandthesmoothiesweremagnificentbeforeheadingofftoanotherWorldHeritagesitetheImperialCitadel.ThetaxiridetookusthroughthemainadministrativecentreofthisancientcitythatstillexhibitssomanyFrenchtraits.Theeye-catchingedificesoftheHoChiMinhmausoleum,thenewParliamentHouse,andtheheadquartersoftheCommunistPartystoodout.Howeverthereweremanyotherelegantbuildingsinthisprecinct.TheCitadelhasbeendemolished,extended,replacedinvariousformsbythevariousChinese,VietnameseregimesandtheFrench.ItslastfamousincarnationwasasthemilitaryHQfortheVietCongduringtheVietnam(American)War.HanoiwasmercilesslybombedbytheAmericans.MuchofHanoi’spopulationhadtobeevacuated.Thebombingdidn’tdetertheVietnameseleaderswhowentintobunkersdeepunderthecitadel.FollowingthistourhalfwentontotheHoChiMinhMausoleumwheretheywitnessedthechangingoftheguardwhiletheothersreturnedtothehoteltocatchuponvariousmatter.Wereassembledtoheadofftoamarvellousdisplayofthewaterpuppetsbeforegoingtoyetanothermagnificentmeal.Againtheaccesswasviaseveralflightsofsteepstairs.Itwasaveryfullandgreatdayandthetourhasn’tevenofficiallystarted.Itwasalsoagreatwaytoforgetaboutjetlag.BetterstillDianne’ssuitcasearrivedandshecouldsleepincleanclothes.

Day 1 Wednesday, 14th January

Ha Long Bay WehadanotherbreakfastattheHanoiRomanceHotel.Therewereovertwodozenitemsonofferatthegreatbeautifullypresentedsmorgasbordbreakfastplustea,coffee,juiceandfruit.ThenitwasapackupfromoneofthebestthreestarhotelsIhaveexperiencedandconfrontthemeleeoftraffictoboardourbusinanearbylargerstreetandextricateourselvesfromthismetropolisforwhatturnedouttobeafourhourjourneytoboardourboatatHalongBay.Infacttherewassomuchribbondevelopmentalongthe170kilometresofhighwayweweren’tsurewhenwehadleftthecity.Wehadonewhatseemedtobeanobligatorystopatagovernmentruntouristtrapbeforearrivingataprivateislandownedbyaveryrichconstruction-propertydevelopermogul.Heretherewasachancetorenewourcashreservesbeforetransferringtoalighterinthemassivemarinathatcouldhavebeen

ontheGoldcoastexceptforthesizeandshapesoftheboats.OurshipwastheV-Spirit12oneofalargefleet.HowevertourismonHalongBayismassive.Therewere100similarvesselstooursonthewatersomelarger.Ourshiphad16onboardincludingourfiveThaicompanionsandacrewof12.Wespreadoutintothe12cabinsandenjoyedasumptuouslunchthatwasdifficulttofullyenjoyaswecruisedpastdazzlingkarstscenerywhilewewereinsidethecabin.Thisdidn’tdeterusoverthenextfewdaysrecordingthousandsofimagesbetweenusofthisspectacularareathattousreallyjustifieditsplaceontheWorldHeritageList.Ourfirststopwasanislandwithabeach.Severalcruiseboatstargetedthisislandwhereshort-tailedMacaquemonkeyshadbeenintroduced.Thebeachwasabout100metreslongbutinthispartofthecountrywherecleansandybeachesareararitytheywereveryproudofit.Mostofthegroupascendedthe370stepstoreachthesummitofthissmallislandwhereAcaciamanjiumtreeswerenaturalized.TheyfoundthoughatthesummitonlyacoupleofhungrymonkeysandnoviewbutitwassomeintroductiontothefloraofHalongBaywhereover400specieshavebeenrecorded.

Short-tailedMacaque

Wethenmovedontoananchoragenearourdestinationofagrottowherethegrouphadanoptiontogokayaking.AcoupleoftheyounggirlstookitupanddisplayedtheirprowessinfrontofLongNose’scamera.HoweverF.Lremainedaboardtocapturesomeoftheimageryofthesunsetaswesatsurroundedbyabout100tourboats.Chung,ourlocalVietnameseguidesaidthatHalongBayattractsabout1.5millionvisitorsayear.Inthepeakseasonasmanyas10,000touristsatatimeareoutonthewatertakingintheview.Mosttouristsdon’tseealotoftheWorldHeritagesitebecausetheyprefertostayovernightintheluxury

Page 4: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 4

ofmainlandhotelseverynightandventureoutonlyforday-trips.AfterthegrottoexcursionwespenttherestofthedaylightonhetopdeckenjoyingfreshfruitandanalcoholfreeHappyHourpriortodinner.TherewasatoastatdinnertoPooandthecrewforanexcellentfirstofficialdayofthetour.Followingdinner,anotherculinarydelight,LongNosewasabletoutilizetheTVscreentopresentsomeofhisamazingimagesofhisrecentvisitstoAmbon,WestPapuatoseewhalesharks.ThiswasfollowedbyKakaduintheWetandthetourhedidwithF.L&Suin2010throughBali,SuluwesiandTernate.Weretiredat9.30fortheleastamountofrockingeverexperiencedatseaduringawindlesswavelessnight.

Day2Thursday, 15th January

Halong Bay - Cuc Phoung National Park Thedaybeganat6.30withmostascendingtothetopdeckwithTaiChilessonspriortobreakfast.

Thetopdeckwaswetwithaveryheavydewthattookuntoafternoontofinallydisappearafterabacon,eggstoastandjambreakfastweheadedacrosstoacavernousThereweremanystairstoclimbintovariouschambersofthiscaveanditseemedthatthewidepathcouldcomfortablyaccommodatethehordesofpeopleswarmingthroughtotakeintheinterestingformationsandthegrandsizeofthecave.ItwasthenbacktotheboatwherethenextitemontheagendawasrollingVietnamesespringrolls.ForGoBushveteransthisshouldhavebeenabreezewithsquarericepaperandtheveryfinelychoppedcucumber,carrot,ham,egg,noodlesandlettuce.Sincemostwerenotreallynovicesthiswasoneoftheeasiestcookinglessons.Withthatwepackedupandclearedourroomandtookinmoreofthesceneryaswepreparedforagrandearlylunch

befittingthestyleandcuisinewehadbeenaccustomedto.Thenwithlunchoverandbarbillspaidweheadedforthemarina.Thereweremorestunningformationstobeobservedonourwayin,ClosertothemarinawesawmanymoredaytripboatswithpassengerswhowillneverexperiencewhatitisliketogothroughafulldayandovernightcycleinthismostimpressiveWorldHeritagesite.Leavingthemillionaire’sislandtoobservebeforethecausewayIwasastonishedanextensiveforestthatwasapurestandofAcaciamanjium.Itmusthavegrownsofastthatitlookedlikeanaturalforest.Onthebusweweretoldthatitwouldbea4tofivehourjourneytoournextdestinationCucPhuongNationalPark.Itturnedouttobesixhourtocoverthe250kilometres.ThiswassomethingthatGoBushveteranshavehadsomepreviousexperiencewith.TherewasanunscheduledstoptotakeagroupphotoatanotherimpressivekarstoutcropareathatasrecentlyasJune2014wasadmittedasVietnam’s8thWorldHeritagesite.Itisalsothefirstmixedcultural-landscapesite.TranAnScenicLandscapecomplexinNinhBinhProvinceisacharacterizedbystunningkarstscenery.ItisinterestingthatitwasinscribedatthesameWorldHeritageCommitteeMeetingthatalsoinscribedtheGuilinKarstcomplexinChinathatmanyofusarefamiliarwith.Unfortunatelythelightwasfastfadingwhenwearrivedandtherewasjustenoughtimeforagroupphotoonthesite.WediscoveredariverthatliketheverywellconstructedroadthatweweretravellingonthreadeditswaythroughthekarstoutcropsthatinmanywaysresembledthekarstoutcropsinHalongBay.ThemagnificentroadwehadtravelledonsinceleavingNinhBinhcitypassedthroughsomewonderfulpaddyfieldlandscapesandjustneartheendwecouldseetherecentlybuiltBaiNinhBuddhistpagoda,reportedlythetallestintheworld.Itseemsevidentthatthegovernmentisplanningtocapitalizeonthescenicattractionsofthisareaandturnitintoatouristhotspot.Thatwasevidentbytheroadthathasbeenbuilttoencouragetouristdevelopment.

Page 5: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 5

AswearrivedattheCucPhuongNationalParkHQinthedarkoveraveryroughroaddodgingpeople,trucksandmotorcyclesthesoundofbranchesbrushingpastthebushalsohadsomefamiliarity.CucPhuongwasestablishedasVietnam’sfirstNationalParkin1968.Itappearsthatatthetimeofestablishmenttherewasalotofeffortputintoestablishinginfrastructureincludinglodgesroadspublictoiletsetc.Howevertherehasbeenlittlemaintenancesinceanditlooksasiftheanticipatednumberofvisitorsnevereventuated.Thusthereweretworestaurantsbuttheycouldoperateonlyoneatatimeasseemedtohavehappenedwhenweturnedupfordinnerat7.30andwereredirectedfromtheWhiteHouseRestauranttooneoperatingneartheentrystation.Howeverwehadawonderfuldinnertherebeforereturningtoourrespectivelodgesbythelake.InthreedayswehadexperiencedfourofVietnam’seightWorldHeritagesites.

Day 3 Friday, 16th January

Cuc Phoung National Park AftersomeearlymorningwalksaroundthelakeweassembledforbreakfastattheWhiteHouseat7.30am.At9.00amwesetofftowalktotheTurtleConservationCentre.Thiswasestablishedin1998andishometosomeofVietnam’smostendangeredturtlesincludingsomethatarenearlyextinctinthewild.Somespeciesthatareextinctinthewildthoughareinthehandsofprivatecollectors.ULNsuggestedthatthereneedstobegreaterconsiderationgiventoencouragingprivatecollectorswhohavesuchcriticallyendangeredanimalstosurrenderthemsothattheremainingrareanimalscanbeputinacaptivebreedingprogramtohelprestorethepopulationsforthefuture.

Lotsofphotosweretakenandafairbitofturtlehandlingwasundertaken.Wewereshownthetechniquesusedbypoacherstocatchturtles.InthepastitwasforconsumptionbutnowthehighpriceontheblackmarketisencouragingAlas!WetarriedlongerthanplannedattheTurtlecentrenotappreciatingthattherewasanearlieranticipatedmoveacrosstheroadtotheprimatesCentre.Thuswearrivedlateanddidnotappreciatethatwehadtobeoutofthecentreby11.20amsothattheycouldshutdownforlunch.ThePrimatesCentrewasestablishedin1993bytheFrankfurtZoolologicalSociety.ThathelpsexplainwhythemaninchargeisaGermanwhohaslivedhereforthepast21years.TherewasalsoelsewhereintheparkathirdprogramforCarnivoreandPangolinConservationthatwedidn’tsee.Afteryetanothersuperblunchwehadalatestartofftoundertakea7-kilometrewalkattheotherendofthepark.Onthewaywestoppedtoascendandexploreacaveusedbypre-historicpeopleforatleast7,500yearsbasedonarchaeologicalevidence.TheevidencewasthereinthemoundsofmiddenshellsofwhatseemedtobelandsnailsaswellascavepaintingsnotdissimilartotheBradshawAboriginalpaintingsinrocksheltersintheKimberley.Ourwalkrevealedasplendidrainforestgrowingonthekarstbutlittlewildlifeotherthansquirrels.Thiswasdespitesomanypryingeyesseekingtoseetheanimalsofthisforest.AfterdinnerbackattheWhiteHousetwoofthosepryingeyedshodinthongsbravedthecoldtoretracepartofthewayexploreforfrogs.ULNdidn’thavesuchaveryproductiveeventingforallhisbraverybuthemanagedtocapturetheimageofasaratogainthecreek.

Day 4 Saturday, 17th January

Cuc Phoung National Park to Mu Village

FourofthegroupbravedthechillymorningandabandonedthewarmerACenvironmentforabird-watchingtour,thattheysaidwasfabulouswithatleast30birdsspeciesbeingidentifiedwiththeaidofHuon,averygoodguidewhotookULN,Gail,DianeandSimononawalkthoughtheareaaroundthePrimateandTurtleConservationCentres.Amongstthemanybirdsseenweresunbirds,flowerpeckers,greyheadedpygmywoodpecker,Orientalpiedrobin,JapaneseSparrowhawk,Ashidrongo,sixspeciesbulbul,andaspiderhunter.Lotsof

Page 6: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 6

gibbonswereheardhowlingasthegroupreturnedforalatebreakfast.Itwasaveryproductivemorning.

AfteralatebreakfastPho,weeventuallymadeourwaythroughtheNationalParkandthendowntheroadwehadonlytravelledintotheparkinthedark.ItturnedouttobefarmedbyMuongpeoplewhohadbeenforcedtovacatethepark.Thelandcouldnotgrowricebecauseitwashillyandhadnowateringsystem.Sothemaincropswerecassava,cornSugarCaneandAcaciamanjiumwhichwasturnedintoplywood.Thecassavahadbeenrecentlyharvestedandcroppedupandlefttodryontheroadside.Aswewentwesawmuchsugarcanebeingtransportedintoasugarmillbyamiscellanyoftransportfromoxcarttothreewheeledmotorbikestoanassortmentoftrucks.Wedidn’tfindthesugarmillbutasweproceededwesawmanyhectaresofcassavaspreadoutdryinginthefield.Apparentlythecassavaissoldtobeprocessedintonoodles.ItturnedouttobeJudi’s66thbirthdayandwestoppedinatownonthewaytoprocuretwobirthdaycakes.ItwasafascinatingdrivetoourdestinationpartofwhichfollowedtheHoChiMinhHighwaythatnowtraversesthelengthofVietnamfromNorthtoSouth.Afteramarketstopandafewwrongturnswegotontheroadthatledupandoverasteepmountain.Itwasnarrowandslowbutwearrivedonscheduleatourlunchstopwhereagreatlunchawaited.Wethenstartedthechallengingtrekdowntheroad.Weeventuallyreachedavillageandwaitedforeveryonetocatchupbeforeheadingdowntoawaterfall.Itturnedouttobeamagnificentwaterfallbutmostonlysawthetop.DaandIntrepidGuidethoughdashedofftothebottomtocapturethefulldisplay.FearlessLeaderwasthelasttoleavethetopviewingpointbutwhenhegotbacktothetrackhesawno-onesoheheadedbackthevillagewehadjustcomeformbuttheothershadgonetheoppositewayandafteraseriesofbaddirectionshewefinallyreunitedwithhisgroup

followinghisfirstrideonamotorcyclepillioninhislife.TherewasawonderfuldinnerinthehomestayofQuadethiThuc(Thucforshort)thatwaschallengingforthosenotaccustomedtosittingonthefloortoeatdinner.TherewasininterestinginterchangeaswelearntabouttheMuongculture,thetwo-childpolicyofVietnamandacelebrationofJud’sbirthdaywithacakethathadbeendutifullycarriedthoughthewalkbyPooandSami.

Day 5 Sunday, 18th January

Mu Village to Mai Hich Village (Mai Chau valley)

WewerenotlookingforwardtothewalkbacktothebusthatwasmainlyuphillincludingsomeverysteephillsonaveryroughroadbuttheresourcefulPooandChungengagedatrucktoliftusupthehill.ThatleftusacoupleofhourstotakearelaxingstrollaroundthevillageandobservewhathappensevenonaSundaywithpeoplewalking.Thenitwastimetotravelupthehillinthetruck.Therewasagreatimprovisationwithawalkonrampandevenbenchseatsaroundthesidebutthatwaswheretheluxuryended.Ittook1.3hourstotravelthe7kilometresbacktothebus.Whatwelostinpuffingwasmadeupbythebouncingasthelumberingtrucklungedandbouncedoverinnumerablebumpsandevenhadtodoathreepointturntomakeitaroundonehairpinbend.Wearrivedbackatthebusbeforenoonandthenhadlunchattherestaurantwehadusedthedaybefore.ThenwebegantheroughroadbacktothebitumenwherewepausedtobuysomefruitbeforedescendingthemountainandmakinganotherlongbustripnorththroughendlessvillagesandcountlessroadsidestallsandvendorsbeforejoiningHighway6headingfromHanoitothewestofthecountry.Thisroadwaswidersmotherandbusier.ItfinallylefttheflatlandandheadedupahighmountainrangeanddowntheothersideintotheMaiChauvalley.WeleftHighway6atMaiChauandbegandrivingsouthalongthefloorofthispicturesquevalleythatishometoabout50,000peopleanddroveformorethananother15kilometrestoourdestinationinMaiHichvillage.Itwasabout4.30butthesmoginthevalleymadeitseemmuchlater.Inthepoorlightwesetofftoexplorethevillagealthoughinrealityitwaswanderingamongstthefields,breakingdownfencesordetouringaroundthem.MaiHichiscomprisedofethnicThais.ThispartofVietnamhadbeenpartoftheThaiKingdomabout

Page 7: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 7

400yearsagowhentheFrenchstartedtheircolonizationofIndo-China.TheFrenchfoughtawarwithThailandthatendedwithThailandcedingalllandtotheFrenchthatnowisincludedinLaos,CambodiaandVietnam.ThatresultedinsomeThaisbeingcutofffromtheirhomelandandbecomingVietnamesecitizens.TheyareoneofthemanyethnicminoritiesnowinVietnam.TheystillretainmuchoftheirtraditionalThaicultureincludingbuildingwoodenhousesonstilts,weaving,dancingandlanguage.BackatourHomestaywherewehadgoodhotshowersandallsleptinthesameroomwehadaccessagaintoourlargecasesandcleanedupbeforedinner.Itwasagreatdinnerwithusallatthesamelongtableincludingourhostfamily.Wewereadvisedthoughthattherewouldbeafewgirlsfromthevillagethatwouldbecomingtoperformforusafterdinner.

Noneofuscouldhaveanticipatedtheamazinginteractionthatawaitedusattheconcert.Thedancingwasveryentertainingwithsevenbeautifulyoungwomenallunder20yearsofageandsome17.ThemusicwasalsoverygoodexceptforSami’sdiscordantgongplaying.Howeveroncethelastdanceofskippingovertheclappingpoleshadbeencompleted,theinteractionbecameverylivelyasonebyonewewereinveigledintojoininginthedancingandalsoendlesslysippingthe“happywater”(ricewine)throughlongbamboo“straws”.ItwasaveryhappygroupofAussiesthatmadetheirwaytoourcommonbedroomwherealmosteveryonewasoblivioustoanysoundsmadebyanyoneelseoncethelightswentout.

Day 6 Monday, 19th January

Mai Hich Village to Hue ItwasanearlymorningandsaddeparturefromMaiHichaftersuchawonderfulandmemorableevening.ThevalleywasfulloffogandwesettledinforalongdrivetotheHanoiairportThereislittletoreportofaslowtrip.Weleftat8.00amandstoppedonlyforlunch.Itwasslowinthevalleywithamaximumof40kphbutonthehighwaythesteeproadspreventedusgoinganyfaster.HoweveronceweweredownfromthemountainsintotheflatRedRiverdeltathetrafficwasslowedbyroad-works.ThewholeHighway6appearedtobeanalmostcontinuousroadconstructionzoneuntilwefinallyreachedtheFreewayleadingthelastsectionintoHanoi.Onthemountainwediscoveredthatthemanyroadsidestallssellingorchidsweresellingstockthathadbeenillegallypilferedfromtheforests.Wepassedmanyplywoodfactorieswithveneersleftouttodryinthesun.Theseincludedsomeveneersofwhitecedar.Forawhilewewereabletoreachspeedsof90kphuntilwereachedthecitylimitsandencounteredendlessmotorcyclesandtrafficlights.Despiteelectriccyclescostingonly$US500andmotorcyclescostingover$1500therewereveryfewelectriccyclesalthoughtheproportionwentupdramaticallywhenwereachedHue.Mostoftheelectriccycleswereusedbystudentswhoallhadtoweardistinctiveuniformstoschoolandpayfees.WetravelledacrosstowntopickupanotherfreewaytotheairportwherewedischargedPutwhowasflyingbacktoBangkokandrushedtothedomesticterminalwhereconfusionandchaosprevailedatthecheck-inwithPoohavingtopurchaseanextrafareforIngwhowasn’tontheAirline’smanifest.Wemadetheflightwithnominutestosparethankstoaquickandeasysecuritycheck.TheflighttoDaNangwasuneventfulwithnothingtoseefromtheplanebutwhenwearrivedinDanangitwasraining.WeweremetbyNitt,aVietnamesestudentofThaiandJapaneselanguages.SheaccompaniedonourtwobusesthatlabouredthoughthedarknessandmuchslowtraffictogetustoHueinthreehours.AlmosteveryroadjourneywehavemadeinVietnamhasbeenunderestimatedintimebyatleastanhourandthiswasnodifferent.WecheckedintotheVinaaverycomfortablehotelandthenafterhandinginourdirtylaundrytothereceptionsetoffforalatedinneratanearbyrestaurant.Theitemonthemenuwasahotpot.It

Page 8: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 8

wasthoughhotinmorewaysthanoneandindicatedthatwehadleftNorthVietnamandarrivedinSouthVietnamnotedforhavingmuchspicierfood.

Day 7 Tuesday, 20th January Hué World Heritage

Afteraninterestingmorewesternstylebreakfastatthehotelwegatheredat8.30foratourofHué.Wewereintroducedtoourlocalguide,Huy,whospokeverygoodEnglishandwasaUniversitygraduatetourguidewithamajorinEnglish.WithBobandJudimissingaffectedbyalurgiandadesireforaquietdaytherewereall14abletosqueezeintoasinglebusandimmediatelyheadedtotheCitadel.Herewewentonathree-hourworkingtourandlearntnotonlyabouttheroyaltyofthepastandtheirpre-eminentpositionbutmuchaboutVietnamandmanysocialissues.Forexample,welearntthateunuchswereveryimportantpeopleandoftenamassedalotofwealthandtheeunuchsactuallyvolunteeredfortherolebecauseoftheprivilegesthatwentwithbecomingthefosterfathersfortheprincesoftheroyalhousehold.TheVietnameserulersthoughwereawareofthepowerandinfluenceoftheeunuchsandtriedtocounterbydeliberatelyexcludingthemfromanycounselinvolvingdecisions.SomeRoyalhouseholdsmusthavebeenverylargeasthefirstEmperorhad142children.TheThirdEmperorhadnone.TherewassomuchmorewelearntaboutthepowersandprivilegesofroyaltyandthefeudalsystemsodespisedbytheVietnamesesocialiststhatitwasonly25yearsaftertheendoftheVietnamWarthattheGovernmentstartedrestorationoftheCitadelthathadbeenthesceneofintensefightingin1968thathaddestroyedmuchoftheverysignificantsite.OnceworkbeganaidedbythePolishGovernmentwithin11yearthesitewasinscribedontheWorldHeritageListalongwithothercomponentsincludingothersitesthatwevisitedparticularlytheThienMuPagodaandtheKhaiDinhTomb.AfteremergingfromtheForbidden(purple)CityoftheCitadelwewenttoalovelylunchofmainlyporkspringrollsandporkandnoodles.FromtherewewenttothePagodawithsevenlevels.InfrontofthepagodaweboardedaDragonboatforatripupthePerfumeRiver.WeallthoughtthatitwouldbeareturnvoyagebutweresurprisedwhentheboatpulledintothebankandweweretoldthatwewouldbereturningtoHuebyourbuswaitingforus

abovetheriverbank.HoweverthatwasnotbeforewehadexploredthemagnificentroyaltombforanEmperorwhodiedin1925.ThepreparatorycraftsmanshipprecededtheEmperor’sdeathbyseveralyearsandcontinuedsixyearsafterhisdeath.Gillianwasmostimpressedbytheuseofceramicstoadornthisstunningtomb.

WehadsomefreetimeattheVinahotelbutmostoptedtoutilizeittoexplorethemarketsordosomeshopping.OurdinnertonightwasnotsospicybutveryniceespeciallytheduckstewandimprovedmorewithsomeDanangwine.ThatwastoppedthoughwhenweoptedforcoffeeneartheVinawhereonepersonwhoshallremainnameless(andseveralothers)indulgedinrumcoffee,adelightfulbrew.

Day 8 Wednesday, 21st January

To Bach Ma National Park and Hoi An Theplanwastobeontheroadby8.30butweweremovingat8.25.(Thisasunusual.)Howeverwedidn’tquitegetaway.AstaffcheckofJennifer’sroomattheVinafoundacushionthatshehadleftbehindtodisposeof.Theysentamotorcyclecouriertoreturnittoher.About10minutesafterleavinghedrewupbesideourbusandpassedthecushionthroughthebuswindowwhilewewerestillonthemove.About40kilometressouthofHuewepassedashallowlakewithfishingenclosuresacrossit.Inthemorningmistsitwasmostattractive.Alas,wedidn’thaveanopportunitytocapturetheimageofthistranquilscene.IttranspiredthatthislakewasDamGauHaiandwhileadmiringthisweturnedoffthebusyhighwaytoentertheBachMaNationalPark.WestoppedataveryemptyVisitorCentreatthebottomofthemountainthatwasblastingoutveryloudmusic.

Page 9: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 9

Theunderemployedattendanttherehadnomoretodothanthegatekeeperwhoraisedthetrafficbarriertoallowusintothepark.BachMahadbeenaFrenchhillsettlementretreattoescapefromtheoppressiveheatonthecoastallowlands.Thiswasevidentnotonlyfromthelargeandslowlydecayingbuildingsnearthetopbutbytheroadleadingtothemountainsummit.Itwasallwellconstructedandcementallthewaywithnopotholesandonlyoneothervehicleusedtheroadthisday.Inalandwhereroadselsewherearelackingthiswasanexampleofglaringcolonialextravagance.

Atthesummit(orwheretheroadended)themaingroupsetoffindensecloudtowalktothesummit.CloudobscuredmuchofthepotentialviewsatthesummitbutnotthecavesandtunnelsdugbytheVietCongduringtheVietnamWarwhenafullbattalionwasbasedhere.ItwasherethattheFearlessLeader’slurgicaughtupwithhim.IthadlaidlowothersduringthetourincludingJudi,BobandSusohedidn’tsetofftothetopwherethecloudmadeitdifficulttoseemuch.WethenallretreatedtoaRestaurantthatwasill-stockedtofeedagroupof19.LuckilyPooandInghadforesightandpurchasedthemakingsatthemarketneartheVisitorCentrebeforehand.Wethensetoffonanotherwalktoawaterfallthatyieldedlittleinobservationsbeforeboardingthebusestodescendthemountainwherevisibilitywasreducedtomeremetres.Atthebottomtherewasmuchconsternationfromthedriversbecauseofsmokebillowingfromthebuses.Itturnedouttobeoverheatedfrontbrakepads.ThenitwasbackonthehighwayheadingtoHoiAnabout160kilometressouth.TheroadworkswerealmostcontinuousexceptwhenweenteredalongtunnelthroughthemountainsnearDanangthatseemedtobeabout10kilometres.Oneofthecharacteristicsofthedrivingwastheincessantbeepingofthehornswhenovertakinganyvehicle

andtheverychancyoccasionsofovertakinglargetruckswhentherewason-comingtraffic.OurHotelinHoiAnwasverycomfortable.ItwasherethattheFearlessLeaderfinallypassedout.Sonomorecanbesaidoftheevening

Day 9

Thursday, 22nd January Hoi An World Heritage site

TheFearlessLeaderwasstillhungoverthismorningfromthelurgisowhilehesleptSuandthewomenwentonashoppingexpeditiontogetsomeclothing.LaterhebecameverticalandjoinedSuinexploringthisculturalWorldHeritagesiteAbout11.30F.L.wasrousedenoughtoexploretheancienttownwhichhadinthemiddleagesbeenabustlinginternationalseaportwithshipsfromJapan,ChinaandPortugalcomingheretotrade.AstheharboursiltedupandtherewerelargershipsthetrademovedelsewhereandsoHoiAnremainedasasortoftimecapsuleofthearchitecturalinfluencesofforeigntraders.Therearemanyoldsurvivingtimberframehousesofthisboomperiod(1,107),lotsofreligiousbuildingsandpagodasandmanymeeting/communityhalls.ThemostidentifiablecomponentthoughwastheJapanesecoveredbridge.

JapanesecoveredbridgeintheAncientCityofHoiAn

isthecentreoftheWorldHeritagesite

Everyoneenjoyedthefreeday.Jennifergotcarriedawaywithhershoppingandisanticipatingtakinganextrabaghomewithher.Somewenttothebeachsomejustsaunteredaroundsamplingthecuisine.AtnightmostofthewomenwenttotheRedGeckoRestaurantthatwaswellnamed.Theyactuallyhavearedgeckopet.ThecrewplusSimonandULNmadethemselvesaseafoodbanquetbackatourhotel.Itwasaproductiverecoverydayforeveryone.

Page 10: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 10

Day 10 Friday, 23rd January

My Son Sanctuary World Heritage site Themorning’snewswasthatthedreadedlurgihadlaidlowGill.Sheseemedsostrickenthatduringthedaymostpeoplewereconsideringwhatoptionsmightbeavailableuntilsherecovered.Inthemorningshelookedapalegreybutbyeveninghercolourhadreturnedandshewasdeterminedtocontinuethetourwithusevenwitha4.30amstart.WewerealittleconfusedwhenatruckcamearoundplayingMrWhippylikemusic.Insteadofdispensingice-creamsitassummonsingresidentsinthekindestwaytobringforththeirgarbage.MySonSanctuarywastheseventhWorldHeritagesitewehaveencounteredonthistour.WewereintroducedtothesitebythevolubleguideMabo.MySonandHoiAnwerebothinscribedontheWorldHeritageListin1999atthesamesession.ThissitelikeAngkorWatwasuncoveredfromthejunglebytheFrench.HoweversincethentherehasbeenfurtherdeteriorationnotablythebombcratersresultingfromtheVietnamWar.

Theguidebooksmainomissionindescribingthisancientculturalsitewasthatitseemedtobedevotedtoworshipingworshippingsexorratherthemalephallicsymbolsthathaveallbeennowremoved.Whatisremarkableisthequalityoftheoriginalbricksusedandthefactthatnomortarseemedtobeused.Itseemsthesecretingredientthathelpedthebricksandthestructuressurvivesolongwashoneyblendedwiththeclayandthefactthebricksurfacewaspreciselyflatalthoughandjoinsinthebrickswerebevelled.Thebrickswereofsuchqualitythattheycouldbecarvedandmanyofthecarvingsstillsurviveinaveryrecognizableway.Howeverdespiteverydeepfoundationsthebest-preservedtowernowhasalean.Workisproceedingtorenovateandrepairsomeofthestructuresbutthereisalotofworktobedone

OurvisittothesiteconcludedwithadisplayofsomeexquisiteVietnamesedancingandmusic.Thedramaticmusicfeatureafluteplayedbyamusicianpracticingcircularbreathingwhoheldanoteforanamazingtimeinadisplayofshowmanship.OneofthemoreremarkablethingsnotedduringthevisittothissiteisthatvirtuallythewholeformerjunglehasbeenreplacedbyaforestofAustralianwattletrees.WhetherthiswastheresultofdeforestationduringtheVietnamwarornotcouldn’tbeestablished.BackatHoiAnafteranoodlelunchthewomenandBobheadedofftoacookinglesson.Themaindishpreparedwasgreenpapayasaladwithprawnsandporkandspringrollsandricepancakes.Itwasashoppinglesson.Theyallarrivedbackwellfedatabout6.30andthemalecontingenttookofftotheRedGeckoforamealtheydidn’tcookforthemselves.

Day 11 Saturday, 24th January

Hoi An to Dalat Thedaystarteduncomfortablyearlywithusbeingpackedandreadyby4.30foraquickbreakfastatourfavouritehotelandthenboardingthebusforthehourrunuptoDalat.WithlittletraffictherewaslittleblastofhornsunlikeourdashtoMySonSanctuarythedaybefore.Wearrivedincomfortabletimeforour6.30flightbutalasitwasnottobe.TheairlineannouncedthattheplanehadbeendelayedinDaLatbybadwetheralthoughwhenwearrivedinDaLattherewasnosignofanythingbutthemostbenignweather.WhenweboardedtheRussianbuiltplaneitappearedtohavebeenwaitingonthetarmac.Perhapsthepilotsleptin.Somewishedwecouldhavetoo.FlyingoverthemountainsfromDanangtoDaLatonecouldn’tbuthelpwonderabouthowmanytimesthesesamemountainshavebeenoverflownbyAmericanmilitaryaircraftsprayingtankerloadsofAgentOrangeandthelastimpactthatthishashadonthiscountry.Noenvironmentalassessmentwouldhavejustifiedsuchbarbaricactionsthatdestroyedsomuchofthecountryside,thenaturalenvironmentandfornonetmilitarygains.Morecouldbesaid.SomuchofVietnam’sformernaturalforestisnowgrowingAustralianwattlesandeucalypts.Wethentriedtosqueeze12peopleandalltheirluggageintooneMercedesalittlesmallerthanaSprinter.Itwasanobviousimpossibilityresolvedbyfourcrammingintoataxiandracingustoourhotel.ItseemsthattheDaLatairportisatleast40

Page 11: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 11

kilometresfromDaLatCityandweheardtoMercedesclearthetrafficinitswayasweexceedthestandard80kph.Wedroppedoffourluggageatourhotel,thePinkHouseasourroomsweren’treadyandweremetbyanewguideTutwhopreferredtobecalledEagle.Tut’sgirlfriendisinSydneystudyingbusinessandhasbeentherefortwoyears.Tut’sinterestinAustraliahasencouragedhimtopickupmuchofthevernacular.OurfirststopwastheRoyalSummerPalacewherethelastKingofVietnamheldcourtbeforeevacuatingtoPariswherehelivedoutthelastofthis85yearsinluxurywhilehiscountrywentthroughtwowars.Apartfromhislavishlifestyleheisrememberedforgivingthecountryitsnamethathasmeaningandinspirespassion.UntilitwasnamedVietnamitwasknownasAmmanorCochinChina.

Afterlunchwewentforcoffeeatanicecaféwithaviewbeforegoingtotherailwaystationandcatchingaquainttrain.Itwasadvertisedasasteamtrainridebutthesteamtrainwasonlyforshow.Ourtrainwashauledbyadiesellocobutitwasarealblast.Theengineerwasblastingthehornthatmadeourbuseshornssoundweakformostofthewayonthe8kmjourneyWewereadvisedthatwewouldbepassingthroughflowersallthewaybutitwasn’timmediatelyapparentthattheendlessgreenhousesmadeofbambooandplasticwerenotonlyforalittlehydroponicsandvegetablesbutadiversearrayofflowersforthecutflowertrade.Flowershavemadethishilltownretreatat1500metresabovesealevelfamousashaveartichokesthatareanimprobableemblemofthecity.DaLatseemstobetoVietnamwhattheAthertonTablelandsaretoCairns—aplacetoescapefromtheoppressivetropicalheatofthecoastlowlandsandanopportunitytogrowcropsthatcan’tsurviveinlowlandconditions.TheFrenchknewagood

thing.Theyabandonedover1,000grandvillaswhentheyweredefeatedinthewarofindependence.Ourlastexcursionwastowalkfromtherailwaystationtoanearbypagoda.Thiswassomethingwehadn’timaginedforthegrandiosityandcraftsmanship.Itisahugeandstillevolvingcomplex.Theceramiccraftwasdazzlingbutthewholecomplexdefiesanadequatedescriptionsinceitissocontemporaryandstillevolving.ItwasonascaleofimaginativedesignsimilartothewhitePagodanearChiangRaithatweoncesaw.Therewasonemoresurpriseinstorebeforetheday’send.Weheadedofftoawaterfall.Toviewthewaterfallinvolveddescendingandascendingseveralstairs.TheRTH’schargedoffbuttheoneswithlesshuffandpuffoptedtogodownandupontherollercoaster.ForFearlessLeaderwhohasdrivenCoasters(buses)upanddownsomeexcitingtracksthiscoasterridehadmoreadrenalinepumping.Atonebendthosenotgametotakethecontrolswereurginghimtoeaseoffonthebrakesandletitrip.Commonsenseandself-survivalprevailed.Inthewasbacksomeofthehuffandpuffhadvanishedfromtheurgers.AllbutJennytooktheeasybutlessdramaticrideupthehill.WereturnedtothePinkHousehotelandtookupourluggageupmanystairsanddiscoveredthatJudiwhohadmissedtheafternoonactivities

Day 12

Sunday, 25th January Dalat to Cat Tien National Park

Thedaybeganappropriatelyforthis“LittleParis”withcrispyFrenchbreadrolls.OvernightJudihadbeendiagnosedwithBronchitisandwasloadedupwithmedicationsandinstructionsbyaVietnamesedoctorwhoX-rayedanddidallthediagnostictestsataprivatehospitalforatotalfeeof$50.HowevertheadvicewasthatsheandBobshouldskiptheCat

Page 12: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 12

TienNationalParkandmeetusinSaigon48hourshence.WesaidourfarewellandgotawayfromthePinkHouseHotelat9.30andheadeduptotheCrazyHouse.Thisiscertainlyanamazingpieceofcreativityandarchitecture.DrDongVietNga,istheowner,designer,architect,structuralengineersandconstructiondirectorofHangNgaVilla(akaCrazyHouse).ShestudiedarchitectureinMoscowfrom1959to1972andworkedinconventionalarchitectureuntilshemoverfromHanoitoDalatwhenshedecidedtobuildthisvillabasedonunshapedcubeswithcurveswithoutdependingonanyclassicalprinciples.ShestartedworkontheVillain1990anditisstillunderconstruction.Sheaimstofinishtheprojectin2020.AfterleavingDalit,itseemedlikearoadlinedwithendlesshousesfromthetimewedepartedthefreewayneartheairport.ThiswasoneofthetwohighwaysfromDalittoSaigonandevenonaSundaywithfewertrucksontheroadandnomassesofchildrengoingtoorfromschoolitwasbusyandsowasourbushornWestoppedforlunchatapopularroadsiderestaurantandagainalittlefurtheronforacomfortstop.TheonlyremarkablethingtonoteaboutourjourneythoughwastheextentofcoffeegrowinginthispartofVietnam.Vietnamisnowoneoftheworld’smajorcoffeeexportingnations.WeeventuallysqueezedintotheGreenGroveLodgeneartheCatTienNationalPark.Alasthebushadmoretroublesqueezingoutandthebranchhadtobeamputatedtoenablethebustoescape.Oncewehadbeenimplantedinourroomswestillhadplentyofdaylightleft.Poosuggestthatweshouldgatherat4.00pmtowalktotheNationalParkentrance.Wegatheredasscheduledbutinsteadwalkedtotheriverwhereweboardedtwoboatsthatwerecharteredtotakeusonarivercruise.LittledidwerealizethattheDongSongRiverwasboundaryoftheNationalPark?Despiteourdiscomfortinthetwosmallrivercraft,itwasafascinatingtwohoursonthewaterobservingthechangingsceneon-shoreandthewildlifealongtheriver.Onetreewaswhitewithroostingegrets.Elsewhereflocksofgreyishheronsdisturbedfromtheirroostscircledaboveus.Howeverseeingaleaflesstreeintheopencladinnothingbutgreenparakeetswasthemostmemorablesceneaswellasthesmogenhancedsunset.Itwasagreatafternoonoutingandcompensatedforthelessthaninspiringsceneryonourbusjourney.

TheeuphoriaofthetripthoughwastemperedforSuwholearntnewsonherarrivalbackatGreenHopeLodgethattheeldestofherfivesistershadjustpassedawayinJapan.Suoptedtogrieveprivatelyratherthanimpactonthegroupspirit.

Day 13 Sunday, 26th January (Australia Day)

Cat Tien National Park At5.00amatruckpasseddownthenearbyroadgivingthreehorn-blastsasregular10seconds.Thequestionastherealotoftraffic/animals/peopleontheroadorwasthisareveillecallforallandsundry.Breakfastofcoffee/tea,eggs/noodlesandwater-melonwaswaitingforusat5.45am.At6.30amwewalkeddowntheroadtocatchthesmallferryacrosstherivertoreachtheNationalParkHQ.HerewedepositedourbackpacksandjoinedDuyenforournatureguidedwalkthroughthepark.DuyenhadbeenlocalwhoservedintheArmybutwhentheNationalParkopenedin1992helefttheArmytoworkinthepark.Hesaidhehadnotalentsasanaturalistthenbutseeingwhatpeoplewereinterestedinhebecameafastlearnerandhewasveryexpert.

Theideathathikingpoleswouldbenecessarywasmostlywrongaswestrolleddownthewell-formedroadwithcamerasandbinocularsexploringtheforestsforallformsofnature.

Page 13: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 13

Wesawnativebees,bothsmallcolonial(similartoAustralian)andalargesolitaryone(sizeofrhinocerosbeetlegatheringpollen),termites,cycadsandvarioustrees.HoweverbeforewehadevenpassedtheferryDuyenspiedamovementinthetreesandwasabletogiveeveryoneaveryclearviewofafemaleadultYellow-cheekedGibbonswingingatfullpaceacrossthecanopymuchfasterthanwecouldwalk.Wesawallsortsofotherwildlifeincludingsquirrels,andamousedeerthatatfirstsightscurryingacrosstheroadwasthoughttobeagiantrat.Therewasanamazingarrayofbirdsseen.34werelistedbuttheremayhavebeenmorerangingHornbillstobarbets,Mynasandparakeetstosunbirdsanddrongos,spider-huntersandpigeonstoheronsandbulbuls.Itwasabirdwatcher’sdelight.MeanwhileULNandotherswerediscoveringbutterflies,mothsandvariousplantsandforthemitwasanaturalistdelight.TherewasthenatimeforR&RaswefoundournewdigsforthenightandhadasplendidtunaandnoodlelunchpreparedforusbyourThaicrew.WhilstrelaxingonthedeckofPterocarpusthegroupshadclosesightingsofamaturefemalegibbonmovingaroundatthebackofthehousewithheryoungbabyalmoststrappedtohebreast.Ifthefirsthalfofthedaywasimpressivetherewasmuchbettertocomeafterlunch.ULNandSimontookofftoexploreCrocodileLakeDaLaionatestofendurancebefittingCrocodileDundee.TherestofthegroupoptedforthetrucktourwithDuyeninadifferentdirectionandalargelydifferenthabitatofgrasslandswhiletheThaiteamremainedbehindtoprepareareallysumptuousdinnerforthosebackattheParkHQ.WesawlittleheadingoutuntilwereachedthegrasslandswithsomeartificialwetlandsnearaRangerstation.Itturnedoutthatthereare20rangerstationsaroundtheNationalParkof720,000hectaresfor140Rangers.Wemetsomeoftherangers.Theyhavesixdaysamonthoffinoneblocktojointheirfamilies.Theafternoontallyofbirdspeciesalmostoutdidthemorningtally.Welisted32speciesbutoursightingswereclearerandweallfeltthatwecouldrecognizethemifwesawthemagainwithmuchmorecertainty.ThelistwasjustasvariedfromagreenpeahenandIndianrollertoAsianbarowletandRed-earednightjarandfromarangeofwetlandbirdsincludingaWoolly–neckedStorktoacloseupviewofasunbirdbuildinghisnest.ItwasadelightfultourforallbutPamwhodecidedtobraveherillnesstojoinusbutwhohadtobetakenhomeearly.

Thosewhoremainedcontinuednotchingupnotonlybirdsightingsbutalsotwodeerspecies,severalbarkingdeerandasambadeer..

Day 14

Monday, 27th January Cat Tien National Park to Saigon

Intheearlymorningmanypathswerefollowed.ThreeofthewomenoptedtovisitthePrimateRescueCentre,FearlessLeaderandSustrolledalonganewlyformedcementpathalongtheriverbankandthroughthetallginger,TheThaicrewfocussedondomesticchoresinPterocarpus.WhatIntrepidGuideandSimonwereuptowecouldonlytrytoimagine.AsitturnedoutduringthenightULNhadgoneoutaloneandwadedkneedeepintothelakeandthenwaiteduntilthecrocodilesacceptedhimandthenmovedaboutasifhewasn’ttherewhilehesnappedaway.Crocodilesthoughweren’ttheonlythingsthatheandSimonphotographedduringthisadventurousexcursion.Itwasaveryproductivemorning—AND—moreremarkably,theyreturnedtotheVisitorCentrerightonschedule.Mostwereamazed.WewaitwiteageranticipationtoviewhisimagesthatheisgoingtoallowtobeplacedonPicasatobeavailabletoanyoneinvitedbyEmail.MeanwhileGail,DianneandGillhadamostinterestingvisittothePrimatesCentrethatwasrunbyamostinterestingEnglishwomanlawyerwhodevotesherlifetoprimates.Itcostsabout$9,000toprepareeachanimalforreleasebackintothewild.ThefundsareraisedbysocietiesoverseasbuttheCentrerunsonashoestringbudgetwithoutcertaintyoftenurethatisrenewedeveryfiveyears.ItwasamoresubduedgroupreflectingonsomeverywonderfulexperiencesandwildlifesightingsaswetooktheferryacrosstheDongSongtoourwaitingbus.WewentbacktotheGreenHope

Page 14: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 14

LodgetocollectourlargerluggageandhavelunchbeforesettingofftotheSmokusMaximusofVietnam,Saigon(akaHCMC).Itwasaninterestingjourneythroughcoffee,rubber,andcashewplantations,alargelakesupportingfloatingvillagesandquietcountrylanestoasuperfreewayintothecityof10millionpeople.Movingaroundthiscitywithits5M+motorcycleswasreallydauntingaswefoundaswetookawalktoarestaurantfordinnertowitnessonemotorcyclecrash.ThereissuchamarkeddifferencebetweenHanoiandSaigonapartfromtheclimate.Thewomenweardifferentclothes(pyjamastyle)andeverythingisbustlierandmoreeconomicallyfocussed.Thehighlightofthenightwasn’tF.L.takinghissecondfalloftheeveningasheandSuwalkedtothemarkets.Ratheritwasontheirwayhomewhentheywereorientingthemselvesontherightstreetandapickpocketbumpedintohim.FortunatelyhehadgivenhiswallettoSuforsafekeepingearlierintheevening.Theonlygainforthemusclypickpocketwashispocket-diarythatshegraciouslyreturnedaminuteortwolateraftertheyhadgoneon.

Day 15 Wednesday, 28th January Saigon to Mekhong Delta

WewerepickedupatthehotelbyaFourSeasonsbusandaFourSeasonsguide,Diep.ItwasaninterestingexplanationofVietnamandlifeinSaigonfromaguidewithfoursisterswhocomesfromasmallvillageof130peoplenearHoiAn.Thefirstthingwelearntisthatthereare9.5millionmotorcyclesinSaigon.Wehadsignificantlyunderestimatedthenumber.Diephastwo—oneforworkandanotherglitziermodeltocatchgirlfriends.WealsolearntalittleofhowlifechangedintheSouthafterthetakeoverbytheNorth.ItseemsthatDiep’sfatherwhowasagainsttheformerSouthVietnamCatholicdominatedgovernmentandfoughtfortheVietCongwasnotimpressedbytheresponseoftheconqueringNorthernersoncetheyassumedpower.Ourfirststopwasatourwasatouristtrap/comfortstopjustpriortojoiningthefreeway.Howeveritwascompensatedforbythestorybehindthecraft.Thelacquer-warehasevolvedbeingcreatedbyvictimsofAgentOrange.ThisaffectedDiep’sparentsandhundredsofthousandsofVietnamese.TheMekhongDeltaisthehomefor19millionVietnamese.ItwasdevelopedbytheFrench,whocreatedmanydrainagecanalsandturneditintoanenormousfoodbowl,allowingVietnamtobecome

thelargestexporterofriceintheworld.MostissoldtoJapan.Itwas70kilometresfromSaigontotheDelta.Inthedeltaareawewereintroducedtoanotherpagodathatbeganinthe19thCentury(1849)andshowssometraitsofFrenchinfluenceinthearchitecture.ThenitwasofftogetonaboatforarideontheMekhong.Thistookustoatouristtrapwhereweexploredthegardens,weresungtobybuskers(albeitverywellpresented)andwerethenledtoa“funride”insampansdownacanalverycongestedwithsampanscomingtocollecttouristsorfittingthemoutwithconicalhatsanddeliveringthemdownstream.Itwashardworkforthepaddlecrew.

AboutthistimeagastricwoghitF.L.andforafewhourstherewasabluraswewenttoanotherrestaurantandyetanotherforlunchalldeliveredbyariverboat.Thenitwasbackonthebusat3.38forwhatweweretoldwasathree-hourruntoourhomestay.WecrossedtwobranchesoftheMekhongonceonabridgebuiltbytheAustraliangovernmentasagiftandanotherbuiltbytheJapanese.TheyhelpeddeliverustothelargestcityintheDelta,CanThothathasapopulationof2millionpeople.HoweverCanThowasn’tthedestination.Itjusthappenedtobewherewerendezvousedwithourhostforthenightwhometusinalargishsampan.Loadingthe16peopleintothissampanfromthemostprimitiverampinthedarkwasachallenge.WhenwewereallaboardthevesselwaspushedclosetothePlimsollline.Thenwesetoffinthedarknessforwhatseemedlikeanindeterminatedestinationandanill-definedtimeschedule.Plyingacanaloramazeofcanalsinthedarknesswasanuncomfortablefeeling,exacerbatedbythecrampedconditions.Howeveritgotworseaswefoundthatthesampanwasprogressivelyslowlysinkingaspeoplestartedfellingwasrisingaroundtheirfeet.Aspanicwasabouttobreakoutwearrivedatourdestinationhomestay.

Page 15: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 15

ItwasverybasicbutcomfortableespeciallyforF.L.whohadalargevomitingboutpriortoboardingthesampan.

Day 16 Thursday, 29th January

Mekhong Delta to Saigon Iftheboatridethepreviouseveningwasachallengetheridethismorningwouldoutdoitinanumberofwaysexceptfortheveilofdarkness.Wewerepromisedalargersampanandthatwasdeliveredandweweremorecomfortable.Howeverbeforewehadgone500metrestheenginecoughed,backfiredandstopped.Ourhelmsmandidn’thesitate.Hedivestedhimselfofhisouterpants,jumpedintothemudandtieduptoajetty.Hethengrabbedacrank-handleandtookofftowalkhomewhilewewaitedandspeculated.Soonanothersampandrivenbyourtrustyhelmsmandrewupbesideus.Itwasthesameleakyboatthathadgivenusangstthepreviousevening.Ourordealthoughwasn’tover.Wewerefollowingadifferentroutetogettothefloatingmarketbutthetidewasatitslowest.Thatresultedinuscollectingmoreplasticaroundthepropandtouchingbottomseveraltimes.Howeveratonestagehavingclearedtheproptheboatremainedstuckinthemuddespitethebestmusclefromourtrustyhelmsman.Eventuallyhereceivedassistancefromanotheryoungmaninalargervesselthatwaswaitingforthetidetoliftitoffthemud.Thenwithskilfulmanoeuvringandcarefulnavigationwemanagedtogetthoughthisshallowsandoutontotheriverwherewechangedintoalargervesseltoexplorethefloatingmarkets.Weweresurprisedthattheleakthepreviouseveningdidn’treappear.TheFloatingMarketwasveryinterestingbecauseitseemedtoworkonawholesalebasiswithlotsofwomeninsampanspullingintostockupwithretailsupplies.Itseemedlikeachaoticscenewithallsortsofcraftmillingaroundthewaterstayingjustclearofthemainchannelwherehugebargesloadedtothegunnelwithsand,gravelortimberwereconstantlypassing.Wesampledthefruitfromapineapplewholesalebeforemakingourwayacrosstheriverandupanothercanal.Fortunatelythetidehadrisenandthiscanalwasjustalittlewider. We stopped at a noodle factory. It wasn’t an industrial scale plant, just a backyard operation with a handful of people working it. Two people dispensed out the rice powder slurry on to a large circular hot plate then as each was steamed for 15 to 30 seconds before being lifted off and left to

dry. There were hundreds of bamboo trays used to dry out the large rice paper sheet. When dried, these sheets are fed into a shredder and turned into noodles. The quality of the noodles apparently depends on the proportion of rice to cassava flour with 100% rice being the best noodles.

Thenbeganthethree-hourtripbacktoSaigon.Wehadplannedtovisitaschoolonthewaybutthishadnotbeenproperlyarrangedanddidn’teventuatesothegiftsfortheschoolwillbedistributedtoschoolsinThailand’sHilltribearea.Apartfromlunchalargeroadhouse,therewasnoadventurereachingSaigonwherewefarewelledoutGuideDiepandDriverHai.Thenat6.00pmPootookusaroundthecornerforourfinaldinnerataveryfinevegetarianrestaurant.TherewereformalthankstoPooandhisteam,Ing,SamiandDawhoguidedusthroughthelast17days

Day 17 Friday, 30th January

Farewell Vietnam ItwasdifficulttoappreciatethatourOdysseywasofficiallyended.Howevertwoteamssetoutearlyafterbreakfasttotakeinasmuchaspossiblepriortoourdeparture.Thewalkingwomenchargedoffona40-minutechallengetoreachtheNotreDameCathedral.UncleLongNose,FearlessLeaderandSutookacabandmiraculouslyranintoeachotherattheCathedral.WhilethewomenwalkedbackshoppingonthewayU.L.N.,SuandF.L.stoppedinattheIndependencePalace.TheIndependencePalacewasattheepicentreoftheVietnam/AmericanWar.Itwaswherethetankscrashedthroughthegatesto“liberate”SouthVietnamandthenproceededtomercilesslypunishthosewhohadopposedthis“liberation”.Thustisinterestingtoreflectalmost40yearsafterthatdramaticeventhowmuchtheconquerorshavesincehadtocompromisetoholdontotheSouthandtoadvancethisamazingnationof90millionpeople.

Page 16: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 16

Epilogue Reflectingbackonsomuchover18daystherearesomanyexperiencestoremember.Thankfullyduetomoderntechnologythegroupthroughimageshasbrilliantlyrecordedthese.Manynewfriendshipswereformedandindelibleimpressionswereleft.ForthisdiaristthephilosophyofUncleLongNoseresonatesmoststrongly.Whenaskedwhatitrequirestobeagreatnaturalist,IntrepidGuidesaidthatitwasfirstnecessary“tobreakoutofsociety’sframework”.Thathehascertainlydone.Tosomeextentoursenseofadventureandourpreparednesstogetoffthewell-beatentouristtrackdemonstratesthatweareallnotfullyconformingtosociety’sframework.

Japanese Bridge in World Heritage Hoi An

Manifest

Diane Goodwillie 8 Kanooka Avenue Coolum Beach QLD 4573 Phone: 07 5446 2542 Mob: 0406 605 700 Email: [email protected]

Pam Alick 57 Primrose Terrace Red Hill QLD 4059 Phone: 07 3369 2749 Email: [email protected]

Judi and Bob Sloan 144 Matron Porter Drive Narrawallee NSW 2539 02 4455 4340 Email: [email protected]

Simon Sutton PO Box 8199 Gladstone QLD 4680 Phone: 07 4978 5015 Email: [email protected]

Gillian Whitworth 42 Glendale Road Glendale QLD 4711 Phone: 07 4936 2617 Email:: [email protected]

McDonald, Jennifer 2 Baronet Court PELICAN WATERS Q 4551 Mob: 0400 686 093 Email: [email protected]

Ian Morris Intrepid Guide PO Box 189 NOONAMAH NT 0837 Phone: (08) 8988 2484 Mob: 0428 589 980 E-mail: [email protected]

Gail Metcalfe 14 Banksia Park Rd Katoomba NSW 2780 Phone: 02 4782 1573 Mob: 0418 434 167 E-mail: [email protected]

Tokiko (Su) Dawson 94 Bennetts Road CAMP HILL QLD 4152 Phone: (07) 3395 4004 Mob: 0413 336 295 Email: [email protected]

John Sinclair Fearless Leader 1/32 Weston Street COORPAROO Q 4151 Phone: (07) 3397 5889 Mob: 0418 650 535 E-mail: [email protected]

Organizers

Host Organization: Natural Focus Email: [email protected]

Poo Chookiet Kananusatkul 129/1 Moo 4, A-Ngiw Road Soi 4, T. Robwiang A. Muang Chiang Rai 57000 Tel/: 6653 758 249 Mob 6685 888 6869 Email: [email protected]

Poo’s Mum: Patchurin Uttano

Sami: [email protected]

Ing: [email protected]

Da: Phattarim kamsub Guides:

HanoiandtheNorth ChungHue HuyMySonSanctuary MaboDalat Tut(Eagle)CatTien DuyenMekhong: Diep

Thelastsymbolmeansnofamilyviolence

Independence,Freedom,Happiness

Page 17: 2015 VIETNAM DIARY - John Sinclair Study Tours/2015 VIETNAM DIARY.pdf · Hanoi is a city of 8 million people who seem to have at least 5 million motorcycles that they seem to crowd

DiaryNaturalFocus‘s2015VietnamTour 17