17123 diy patios&paths - paragon supply€¦ · patios paths whether it’s in the land of oz...

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17123 DIY Patios&Paths 2/14/07 3:38 PM

PATIOSPATHS

Whether it’s in the Land of Oz or your own backyard,there’s something magical about a brick path –especially if it leads to a sunny, spacious patio. Don’tget me wrong; there’s nothing magical about how patiosget built. They take loads of energy and muscle power.They require careful planning from the first shovelfulof dirt thrown to the last paver laid. But you’ll get whatyou work for: a beautiful, usable, outdoor space thatwill last a lifetime.

Our patio is “dry-laid”, meaning there’s no wetconcrete used, just precast concrete pavers laid on a bedof sand. Ours is a large ambitious project with curves,paths and steps. We circled trees, looped aroundlandscaping beds and linked together two decks.

Every patio is different – the one you build may belarger, smaller, squarer or rounder. The good news is,everything you need to know about building any dry-laid patio is right here on these 10 pages.

By Spike Carlsen

&

A littleambitionand a lotof musclepower will earnyou thisenduringdry-laidpatio.


PATIOS PATHS&

JUNE 1992 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

PAVERS: BEAUTIFUL, VERSATILE, MANAGEABLEOne of the beauties of pavers is thattogether they create a large, durablespace, but individually they’re lightweightand easy to install. This gives DIYers thepermanence of concrete without thespecial tools, know-how and “hurry-upness” that concrete requires. Plus,pavers have color, shape and pizazz.

There’s no doubt about the durabilityof concrete pavers. They’re often used instreets and industrial parking lots whereheavy machinery cracks ordinaryconcrete slabs. Pavers – small andindependent –withstand abuse by flexing,rather than cracking, under pressure.They’re ideal for regions that go throughfreeze/thaw cycles, too; the individualpavers absorb heaving and movementwithout cracking. And it’s a lot easier torepair small areas in a dry-laid patio thanwith a slab.

Pavers can be used for driveways,sidewalks, patios, garden paths, evenporch floors. As long as the underlyinggravel and sand base is properly prepared,pavers can be used almost anywhere. Inareas where vehicles will travel, thesubbase (Fig. C) must be increased to atleast 10 in.

The simple rectangular pavers we usedcan be laid in a variety of patterns (Fig.B). Other paver shapes are available:

squares, zigzags, keyholes, even somethat look like fancy floor tile. Shoparound at home improvement andlandscaping centers for more information.

THE BEST DESIGN FOR YOU AND YOUR YARDWhether you’re a novice or experiencedDIYer, you’ll find this project doable andsatisfying. You’ll be limited more by yourenergy level and free time than by theskills required.

A well-designed patio must take intoaccount the terrain, landscape and theneeds and pocketbook of your family. Notall yards are candidates for a patio. Inuneven terrain, a raised deck – which canspan hill and dale – might be the bestoption for outdoor space.

We needed to tie in our patio withexisting trees, planting beds and decks.We measured everything and made asmall scale drawing of our home andexisting landscape on paper (Fig. A). Weused a straight 16-ft. 2x4 with a 4-ft. levelon it and a tape measure to get a roughidea of how much our yard sloped (wenoted that on our drawing, too). Then welaid tracing paper on top of our scaledrawing and doodled a half-dozen patiodesigns. A consultation with a landscapedesigner provided us with these helpfultips:� Patios must have a slight slope (1 in.

FIG. A OVERVIEW

Herringbone

Herringbone at 45°

Running bond

Basketweave

FIG. B PAVER PATTERNS


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for every 4 to 8 ft.) for properdrainage. If you don’t provide enoughslope, rainwater will settle into lowspots, eventually softening and washingout the sand and subbase materialsbeneath. A flat or poorly sloped patiocould even direct water into yourbasement. Too much slope and you’llfeel you’re on a listing ship. Bear inmind you can build up low spots withan extra-thick layer of subbase.

� Ask yourself how you’ll be using your

patio. Our expert recommended aminimum of 25 sq. ft. of patio perhouse occupant. He also added that apatio at least 16 ft. long in onedirection is often the most functional.Plan for at least a 6x6-ft. area out ofany traffic path for a dining table andchairs. Do you need space for a grill?Lounge chairs? A wading pool?Planters? Hopscotch? Sketch these onyour tracing paper as you doodle.

� In small areas, use simple pavers and

patterns (like the running bond shownin Fig. B). In large areas, you can breakup the expanse with a variety ofpatterns or dividing bands.

� Curves add interest and grace to thepatio – but also loads of cutting andextra work.

PAVERS, MATERIALS AND TOOLSWe paid 50¢ each (a little over $2 per sq.ft.) for our 4x8-in pavers. We purchasedthem from a landscape center, where theysupplied us with brochures from the pavermanufacturer and gave us lots of

installation tips.When ordering pavers, estimate

the square footage of your patio,then add 5 percent. If you have alot of curves, borders or half pavers– like our patio – order 10 percentextra. This allows for damagedpavers and provides extra ones forfuture repairs. The Snap Edgeplastic edging cost $2.25 per ft.; the8" -10" spikes to secure it cost 40¢each.

We used “class 5” crushedlimestone for building the subbase.Class 5, a grade of materialcommonly used for road beds, iswidely available. It consists of 3/4-in. rock and smaller particles,which nest together firmly whencompacted. When ordering (lookunder “Sand and Gravel” in theyellow pages), tell the quarry ortrucking company you’ll be usingthe material for a patio subbase. Ifthey don’t have class 5 limestone

FIG. C TIMBER EDGING AND STEP DETAIL

OUTLINE the patio perimeter using a garden hose forcurved areas and long 2x4s for straight sections.

1 2

REMOVE SOD in an area extending 8 in.beyond the boundaries of the patio. Spraypaint indicates the excavation line.


PATIOS PATHS&

JUNE 1992

they should be able to offer crushedgravel or another suitable substitute. Theclass 5 we used cost us around $100 (7cubic yards at $7.50 per yard plus a $50delivery charge). One cubic yard of class5, when placed 4 in. deep, will cover 81sq. ft. If you need to build up an area,order more.

Coarse sand for leveling and beddingthe pavers ran $15 a cubic yard, plusdelivery. One yard of sand will provide a1-in. base for about 300 sq. ft. of patio.Order a little extra for sweeping into thecracks when you finish (our patioconsumed about four 5-gal. buckets ofsand for this).

For tools, you’ll use everydayhammers, levels and tape measures aswell as big, oddball tools like a flat-platevibrator and a masonry saw that you’llneed to rent ($40 to $50 each per day).With proper planning, you shouldn’t needto rent either tool for more than twowhole or half days.

All material and rental charges for ourproject came to $1,900. That’s a lot! Butwhen you consider pros charge between$6 and $10 per sq. ft. when they supplyand install pavers, you’ll see you’resaving 1/2 to 2/3 the costs by doing ityourself.

Here’s theultimate out-door project– it’s high insweat equity,doable insmall chunksof time, andoffers greatresults.

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USE A LEVEL, a2x4 and stakes to determine theslope of the patio.Slope of 1 in. per4 to 8 ft. awayfrom house isideal. Run stakesand a grid ofstring to mark thetop of finishedpatio, thenexcavate 7-1/2 in.below strings.

SPREAD CLASS 5subbase to adepth of 4 in.over entire patioarea and 8 in.beyond.Measure downfrom guidestrings toestablishuniform heightof subbase.


PATIOS PATHS&


PLANNING AND LAYOUTThe first thing you should think about iswhere the last paver you lay will wind up.Will your yard accommodate the slopeand size of your patio? Will a squarepatio end in nice, full pavers or skinnylittle slivers?

With your graph paper plan in hand,lay down garden hose (Photo 1) and 2x4sto form an outline of your patio. Use yourlevel and a straight 2x4 to double-checkthe lay of the land for proper slope. Thenspray-paint a line 8 in. outside the outlineof your patio to act as a line forexcavating. Strip away the sod at thispoint (Photo 2) so grass doesn’t get in theway of the guide strings you’ll soon besetting up.

EXCAVATING THE SITE AND BUILDING THE BASEThis part of the project is the key to asuccessful (and long-lasting) patio.

Use the bottom of a door or a set ofstairs abutting the patio areas as thestarting point for establishing the finalheight and slope of your patio. Your entireslab should slope away from the house ata rate of 1 in. every 4 to 8 ft. This slopemay be one long decline or a slight dome-shape so water runs off in more than onedirection. Place one end of a long 2x4 atthe bottom of the stairway or an inchbelow the door threshold, then levelacross to stakes driven at the perimeter ofthe patio and make a mark (Photo 3).Make another mark the appropriatedistance down the stake to indicate theslope. In our case, after making a levelmark on our stake with a level and 12-ft.

5 6

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8

TAMP THE SUBBASE using a flat-platevibrator (rented at $40 a day). Work ina circular motion and compact the areatwice.

INSTALL THE EDGING on the tamped subbase using 8”-10” spikes. Cut the webbing on theedging’s back side to make it flex for curves.

INSTALLLANDSCAPETIMBERS foredging inareas whereyou need tochange levelsor step down.Be certain tooverlapcorners.

SPREAD ANDLEVEL a 1-in.bed of sandover compactedsubbase. Pipesprovide a guidefor draggingthe 2x4 screedboard across.


PATIOS PATHS&


2x4, we made another mark 2 in. down toindicate a slope of 2 in. for that 12 ft. (1in. for every 6 ft.).

Make a gridwork of stakes and guidestrings to indicate the finished height andslope of your patio. Then excavate 7-1/2in. below these lines. This will provideroom for a 4-in. subbase, the 1-in. sandbase, and the 2-1/2 in. pavers themselves(4 + 1 + 2-1/2 = 7-1/2 in.). See Fig. C. Ifthe area is hilly, you’ll need to go backand forth between excavating, levelingand setting strings to get things right.

Soil conditions vary greatly across thecountry. If after digging 7-1/2 in. belowyour strings, you still find pockets ofloose dirt or black soil, remove it or itwill eventually settle, creating a wavypatio.

Next, bring in the subbase material.Bring the area up to a height 3-1/2 in.below your guide strings (Photo 4). Itshould be at least 4 in. deep in all places.The subbase should extend 8 in. beyondthe actual edge of the patio to provideroom for the edging. It’s possible you’llneed to build up an area to accommodateyour patio. In such cases, remove the sodand loose soil, then build up the area withyour subbase material. Building a 10- to12-in. subbase is common; even 20 in.would not be unusual. Compact the class5 using a flat-plate vibrator (also knownas a compactor) as shown in Photo 5. Goover the entire area twice.

THE ESSENTIAL EDGINGEdging is an absolute must formaintaining the integrity of your patio.Without solid edging, your sand base andpavers will separate and drift apart asrain, frost and foot traffic pound away.

We used Snap Edge plastic edging.Left uncut, it remains straight and rigid,but when it’s cut it can be bent to formcurves. Secure the edging into thecompacted subbase with 8" -10" spikes(Photo 6).

We used landscape timbers forcombination edging/steps in a sloped areaof the yard (Photo 7). Crisscross cornersand use double timbers on the front ofsteps (even though the lower one will beburied). This lower timber prevents thesubbase and sand from washing out. Thetops of the timbers should be at the sameheight as the surface of the finished patio.

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INSTALL THEPAVERSstartingalong thelongest,straightestedge. Borderpaversprovide acrisp finishededge,especiallyalong curvedportions ofpatio.

CONTINUE LAYING PAVERS using a layout string to keep them in line asyou work. Put a gap between pavers or tap them tighter to stay in line.

MARK PAVERSthat run “wild”into the borderarea. Thenremove thepaver, cut tosize and placeback in positionalong withborder paver.

17123 DIY Patios&Paths 2/16/07 11:09 AM

PATIOS PATHS&


SPREADING SANDSand provides the final base for yourpavers. If this surface is uneven, thepavers on top will be, too.

Ideally, the sand should be 1 in. thick,but if it’s a tad thicker or thinner in spots,that’s okay. What you want is a firm, flatsurface for laying pavers. Sand also locksthe pavers in place. When you vibrate thepavers, they’ll bed themselves slightlyinto the sand.

If your patio is under 10 ft. wide, use ascreed board with a 2-in. notch on theends to ride along the edging to level thesand (similar to that in the first photobelow). On larger expanses level longlengths of iron pipe in the sand 2 in.below your guide strings, then run yourscreed along the top of the pipes. (When

you’re done with the pipe, remove it, thenfill in the groove it leaves with sand). Inmany cases you’ll use a combination – anotched screed board riding along theedging on one end, with the other end ofthe screed running along iron pipe (Photo8). Whichever screeding method you use,roughly dump and level the sand over thecompacted subbase, then fill in lowspaces and rake away excess sand as youdrag your 2x4. Shuffle the screed lightlyfrom side to side as you work. You’re notcompacting the sand, just creating a firm,solid bed.

Screed only as much sand as you cancover with pavers in one day. Screededsand left any longer is guaranteed to beruffled by wind, rain, kids or a stray catthinking he’s found the world’s biggestlitter box.

PAVE AWAYYou should now be standing before anexpanse of sand that’s flat as a pancake(but slightly sloped). Take down the guidestrings you used to determine height andslope and put up new stakes and strings tomark the lines for the pattern of yourpavers (Photo 10).

Start along your house or other long

SMOOTH AND LEVEL the sand usinga notched screed board riding alongthe edging for a guide. Include aslight tilt for good drainage.

INSTALL THE BORDER, marking andcutting every other paver at an angleat curved areas.

LAY THE PAVERS using a string for aguideline. Cut and install pieces thatbutt up to the border later.

PATHWAYSA pathway can be part of a largerproject or a project in itself. A walkwaymade from pavers is an attractive wayto link your driveway to your front door,existing deck to new patio, or back doorto garden area.

Here are a few tips:� Keep the pattern simple; a border

running parallel to the path with asimple staggered pattern within isoften the most attractive.

� Put a slight tilt in the path fordrainage. One-half inch across a 3-ft.wide path is adequate.

� Take extra care to keep the edgingsan equal distance apart; it will makescreeding, cutting and paver layingeasier.


PATIOS PATHS&

JUNE 1992

straight edge and lay down the borderpavers. (A border isn’t essential, but addsa crisp, finished look, especially alongcurves.) then lay the rest of your pavers inyour selected pattern. Just lay the paversin place – don’t bang on them or twistthem. Measure over to your string everyfew rows to make sure you’re staying ontrack. You can leave a slight gap betweenpavers or tap them tighter together with arubber mallet.

If you’ve taken the time to set thingsup right, laying the pavers goesamazingly fast. Many pavers have littlenubs on the sides to serve as spacers.Don’t walk or kneel on the edge of thepatio until after you’ve vibrated it;otherwise these pavers can sink unevenly.

We let our pavers run “wild” near thecurved edges (Photo 11). Using a paveras a guide, we marked the inner pavers,removed and cut them on a masonry saw,then reinstalled the cut inner piece andthe border piece. On tight radius circles,we used half pavers for the border (Photo 12) to avoid large, pie-shaped voids between them.

As big and foreign as themasonry cutting saw appears,it’s actually safe and easy to use. A constant stream ofrecirculating water keeps theblade cool and lubricated, and a sliding tray carries the paverpast the blade. A cut takes about 10 seconds. Don’t forgetto wear your hearing and eyeprotection.

When all your pavers are cutand in place, vibrate the entirepatio (Photo 14), starting at theouter edge and working inwardin a circular motion. Thevibrator will lock the paversinto the sand and help evenup the surface. Don’t let thevibrator sit in one place toolong, or pavers could settleunevenly or crack. Somepros place plywood downand vibrate on top of that tohelp distribute the weight ofthe machine.

If a paver sinks deeperthan its neighbors, use apair of screwdrivers to pry itup, sprinkle a little extrasand in the void, thenreplace the paver.

SWEEPING AND UPKEEPSpread course sand across thesurface of your patio. After thesand dries, sweep it around thepatio (Photo 15) to fill thespaces between the pavers.Make sure the sand is dry – wetsand will bridge, rather than fillthe gaps. It may take twosweepings with a push broom afew days apart to completelyfill the gaps. The sand helpssolidify the pavers, and alsofills any spaces where dirtmight enter to provide a mini-planting bed for weeds.

We rolled two coats of awater sealer over our completedpatio. We didn’t do this to protect thepavers – they don’t need protecting! Wedid it to enrich the color.

Landscape around your patio withgrass, sod or planting beds to give it afinished look. Bring in dirt to even out

the space between the new patio andexisting yard. Keep dirt at least 1/2 in.below any plastic edging to allowrainwater and runoff to easily drain awayfrom the patio.

Set up the lawn chair and take a snooze– you’ve earned it. TFH

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USE HALF PAVERS for bordering tightcircles. Smaller pavers cut down onthe size of the pie-shaped gapsbetween each piece.

Pavers stand up better to heavy loads and wintersthan concrete slabs do – pavers move and flex butslabs will crack.


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CUT PAVERS on masonry saw. Saw has abuilt-in sliding carriage for moving paverspast the blade. Recirculating water keepsblade cool and lubricated.

TAMP THE PATIO with a flat-plate vibratorafter all the pavers are installed. Tampentire outside edge first, then circle in.

SWEEP COARSE, DRY SAND betweencracks of pavers to lock them togetherand fill voids. Repeat with more dry sand in a few days.

SHOVELING SMARTSThis project scores a 9.9 in sweat equity. You’ll be amazed atthe amount of dirt you remove, even with the smallest patio.Compacted earth, once dug up and tossed, tends to double itsprevious size. Move it as few times as possible – preferablyonce. If you’re going to use the dirt to fill in a low area,shovel the sod and dirt right into the wheel barrow and dumpit in its final resting spot. If it’s going to be hauled away, backthe trailer, truck or trash bin as close as you can.

Be equally wise with the materials you haul in. Do all yourexcavating, then have your subbase dumped directly on thepatio site. Have your leveling sand and pavers delivered closeto the patio. Our patio took 2,500 pavers – that’s a lot ofhauling by hand! Consider access to your back yard. Can youback a truck close to the patio site? If not, are you preparedto do a lot of hauling by wheelbarrow? Will that heavy truckdamage any tree roots or your soft asphalt driveway on a hotday? Have you carefully figured the amount of materials youneed before ordering, so you don’t wind up with tons of extrasand, subbase or pavers? Does it make sense to temporarilyremove a section of fence for access during the project?

Finally, consider recruiting help for some of the more labor-intensive parts: excavating, spreading the subbase, luggingthe pavers.

Art Direction • MIKE SMITH, GREGG WEIGAND and GORDY WILKINSONPhotography • BILL ZUEHLKEIllustrations • RON CHAMBERLAINConsultants • BOB DAHM, JERRY HAGEN, DAVE ZWERNICK, SOUTHVIEW DESIGN


LANDSCAPE around the completed patio with flowers, shrubs andgrass. Grass will root through the open spaces in flexible edging toanchor it in place.

Snap Edge Corporation3925 Stern AvenueSt. Charles, IL 60174

Article taken from June 1992 issue of THE FAMILY HANDMAN Magazine.

For a subscription, write to:

THE FAMILY HANDYMANHome Service Publications, Inc.7900 International Dr., Suite 950

Minneapolis, MN 55425

Reprinted with permission fromTHE FAMILY HANDYMAN Magazine.Home Service Publications, Inc.,

an affiliate of the Reader’s Digest Association, Inc.,7900 International Drive, Suite 950, Minneapolis, MN 55425

© Copyright 1992. All Rights Reserved.

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17123 diy patios&paths - paragon supply€¦ · patios paths whether it’s in the land of oz...

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