Brown 07 Autumn Shade Col 06.1A loving heart is the beginning of all knowledge

A loving heart is the beginning of all knowledgeBrown 07 Autumn Shade Col 06.1

LINKS

CALENDARUL Naturii

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/special/metro/urban-jungle/summer-2010/index.htmlhttp://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/special/metro/urban-jungle/summer-2010/index.htmlhttp://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/special/metro/urban-jungle/summer-2010/index.html

Calendarul gradinarului

Gardening Calendar

http://direct.tesco.com/content/specials/springgarden/springgardencalendarapr.aspx

Google searchGardner’s calendarGardening by the phases of the moon

Gardening by the Phases of the Moon The Astrological Signs of the Zodiac How does Lunar Planting Work? Features of the Calendar Calculating Lunar Planting Dates Organic Gardening Tips and Techniques Gardening by the Moon Home ~

Lunar Phases ~

Moon Planting Matrix Software ~

Gardening Tips ~

Calculate Planting Dates ~ Garden Art Photos ~

The garden helperhttp://www.thegardenhelper.com/calendar.html

mulch

The Gardner’s calendar on the phases of the moon

http://www.the-gardeners-calendar.co.uk/

Gardening In tune with the Moon

http://intunewithmoon.findhornpress.com/?tag=organic-fungicide

Calendarul gradinii de legume

rosii, varza, gradina, distanta intre pomii fructiferi, fructe, conopida, vita-de-vie, copilirea rosiilor, vinete, gradina si casa, salata, soiuri de vinete, pamant de gradina, gradinii, taierea vitei de vie

FEBRUARIE- Se incearca semintele sanatoase punand cateva din ele sa incolteasca in muschi sau nisip umezit. - Livada doarme sub amortirea iernii; in zilele frumoase se pot curata pomii de frunzele uscate - in ele se ascund dusmani din primavara; tot in aceste zile se sapa pomii la radacina si se pune gunoi, se acopera cu pamant sapat, sau se aduna zapada la radacina lor. - si pamantul are viata lui; din cand in cand nu strica sa se puna pe el gunoi. Pe straturile de langa casa se pune gunoi de pasari, cenusa pentru ingrasarea pamantului.  MARTIE- replicatul rasadurilor in cuburi sau ghivece nutritive destinate culturilor timpurii de camp (tomate, ardei, vinete)- insamantarea in rasadnite sau solarii incalzite biologic a legumelor destinate culturilor de vara (varza, tomate)- plantarea in prima jumatate a lunii in solarii sau tunele a verzei timpurii, conopidei timpurii si gulioarelor- plantatul si semanatul din timp a mazarei, verzei si conopidei timpurii, a cepei din arpagic si samanta, a usturoiului de primavara, a morcovului, patrunjelului, spanacului, ridichii de luna, etc.- in a doua jumatate a lunii se planteaza in rasadnite castravetii, ardeii- se pregatesc solariile pentru tomate, ardei, vinete- se continua protejarea verdeturilor cu polietilena si recoltarea verdeturilor produse in sistem fortat- se practica supraaltoirea pomilor (unde e cazul) dupa metoda prin despicatura, copulatie sau triangulatie- fertilizarea suplimentara cu azot- dezgropatul si demusuroitul vitei de vie- se face taierea radacinilor pornite din altoi (taierea de rodire si copcitul)- in legumicultura se continua dezinfectarea rasadnitelor, solariilor, cu formalina sau sulfat de cupru;- pomii fructiferi se pot stropi cu solutie sulfo-calcica, impotriva fainarii; peste 2 saptamani se mai face o stropire impotriva moniliei, cu o solutie pe baza de cupru. Tot in aceasta luna putem pregati terenul pentru plantarea de noi pomi fructiferi: se sapa si se gunoieste pentru a fi reavan, apoi, spre sfarsitul lunii, se pot planta. APRILIE- pana la mijlocul lunii aprilie se mai pot planta in gradina: - radacinoasele (morcovi, patrunjel, pastarnac) in randuri, distanta de 25 cm; salata, spanacul; - se seamana soiuri de mazare tarzie, sfecla rosie si samanta de ceapa;- de la mijlocul lunii incepe: - plantatul varzoaselor, guliei si conopidei; - semanatul cartofilor preincoltiti la distanta de 70 cm intre randuri, iar pe rand, intre cuiburi, 30-40 cm, la adancimea de 10 cm;

- semanatul fasolei, castravetelui, pepenelui si dovlecelului;- se mai poate semana inca sfecla rosie la 30 cm intre randuri;- plantarea telinei la distanta de 40 cm intre randuri si pe rand;- semanatul porumbului;- semanatul florilor anuale, plantatul trandafirilor, al daliilor, gladiolelor, crinilor;- la sfarsitul lunii se poate planta rasadul de rosii timpurii si ardei;- Atentie la semanat! Combinatii bune: morcovi-mazare, semanate alternativ; ceapa-morcov, semanate alternativ; ceapa-sfecla rosie-gulie; cartof timpuriu-mazare; cartof-fasole sau ridiche de luna cu fasolea. Combinatii rele: ceapa-usturoi; morcov-patrunjel; mazare-fasole; castravete-cartof;- În livada se uda bine pomii fructiferi plantati in primavara si se incepe pregatirea pentru stropitul lor.

Calendarul gradinarului vesel – ApriliePublicat aprilie 6, 2009 Din gradina mea Leave a Comment Tags: aprilie

sursa foto

Prima luna de primavara s-a incheiat, a venit vremea sa pregatim gradina pentru nebunia de culori de la inceputul verii. Cum gradina are nevoie de ingrijire in permanenta, munca in mai multe etape este mai usoara si mai placuta.  

Flori, flori, flori

Daca vrei sa plantezi tufe cu flori, aprilie este cel mai potrivit moment pentru a da o noua forma gradinii tale.Luna aprilie este ultima luna cand se mai pot planta foioasele si coniferele care nu stau in ghiveci.

In aceasta perioada se planteaza arbustii, tufele precum si trandafirii. Plantele de peluza trebuie tunse, arbustii care nu au fost fertilizati toamna, trebuie fertilizati. Acum este si timpul pentru tunderea arbustilor ornamentali. Varfurile plantelor mari trebuie tunse, florile de vara si puietii de arbusti trebuie transplantati, astfel incat sa creasca stufosi. 

In aprilie se planteaza florile cu bulbi si tuberculi care infloresc vara, ca de exemplu daliile, gladiolele si crinii.

- pe masura ce timpul se incalzeste, se scot plantele din ghivece afara, luandu-se masuri de protejare impotriva soarelui arzator de la pranz sau impotriva eventualelor brume sau ingheturi- se continua insamantarea in gradina a diverselor flori care se inmultesc prin insamantare directa ;- se face repicatul rasadurilor la plantele care au fost insamantate in cutii sau rasadnite, in luna precedenta;

Daca este necesar gazonul trebuie din nou semanat si imbunatatit. Din aceasta luna, gazonul trebuie tuns regulat.

Gradini de legume si zarzavat

Pentru gradina de legume, in aceasta luna este plin sezon.

Toate sortimentele de salata trebuie sadite in spatiu liber. Stratul de salata trebuie udat abundent pana la incoltire. In aceasta luna se mai insamanteaza urmatoarele legume: sfecla, sfecla rosie, mazare tucara, ridichi mari, ridichi, praz si varza de toate soiurile. De asemenea acum este sezonul de plantare pentru praz, ceapa, usturoi si sparanghel.

La mijlocul lui aprilie se pun in pamant cartofii, iar la sfarsitul lunii cartofii germinati.In rasadnita, sera sau la pervazul ferestrei trebuie insamantati la mijlocul lui aprilie castraveti, ardei, dovleci, porumb si pepeni galbeni. Verdeturile care se insamanteaza in spatiu liber sunt: marar, salvie, roinita, menta, patrunjel si arpagic, tarhon, maghiran si rozmarin.Spanacul si ridichile sunt in aprilie gata de recoltat.

Livezi

La inceputul lui aprilie inca mai pot fi plantati pomii fructiferi. Tufele cu boabe trebuie inmultite prin butasire.In aceasta luna se planteaza murele, se sapa straturile de capsuni si se tunde zmeura. 

 MAI- incepe plantarea rasadurilor de legume. Vom planta rasadurile de ardei, rosii, castraveti, varza, gulie, conopida, broccoli, telina, ceapa (din seminte), praz, vinete;- inainte de plantarea rasadurilor este necesar sa faceti o erbicizare a solului cu urmatoarele substante: Dithane 0,5%, Captan 5%, Merpan 0,5%. De asemenea, uneltele trebuie dezinfectate cu solutie de Carbetox 0,4% sau sulfat de cupru 2-3%.- plantarea rasadurilor de varza timpurie, conopida, broccoli si castraveti se face numai pe pamant umed, la o temperatura de 7-10 grade Celsius. daca nu a plouat, udati terenul, operatiune care se repeta si dupa plantare;- rasadurile vor avea roade dupa 50-60 de zile, timp in care trebuie sa prasiti de 2 ori si sa udati din 10 in 10 zile. Controlati mereu rasadurile pe masura ce cresc si nu ezitati sa folositi insecticide daca vor aparea paraziti: purici, fluturi, muste. IUNIE- daca nu ai reusit sa termini plantarea rasadurilor de legume in luna mai, ai timp doar la inceputul lunii iunie sa plantezi rasadurile de rosii, ardei si vinete;- pe soluri fertilizate cu ingrasamant organic planteaza conopida, varza de toamna, varza rosie, varza de Bruxelles, gulia de toamna si broccoli;- foloseste culturile succesive pe parcele eliberate dupa ceapa verde, salata, spanac, mazare si gulioare. În vederea infiintarii culturilor duble cureti terenul de

resturile vegetale, sapi si nivelezi pamantul. Poti cultiva fasole, ridichi de toamna, castraveti de toamna;- este perioada pentru palisarea, copilirea si carnatirea rosiilor timpurii;- daca ai vita de vie, continua legarea lastarilor, copilitul si carnatitul (indepartarea varfurilor tuturor lastarilor mai vigurosi). Daca ai timp suficient, aranjeaza frunzele vitei in asa fel incat ciorchinii sa aiba mai multa lumina, mai mult soare. Stropeste via contra manei, fainarii si putregaiului;- intinde castravetii timpurii din sera pe sfoara. Daca frunzele nu sunt ridicate pe sfoara, castravetii nu vor avea lumina si nu se vor coace; - continua prasitul. Plivitul, raritul si irigarea zarzavaturilor si combaterea bolilor si daunatorilor la legume.

Calendarul gradinarului - iunieMarti, 02 06 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot

Iunie este prima luna adevarata de vara. Gradinile si plantele de terasa sunt inca de un verde fraged, dar zi dupa zi aspectul lor primeste un nou colorit. Cu toate ca lucrarile gradinii se aglomereaza, bucurioa de a lucra in aer liber si de a admira noi culori si mirezme vii, cu siguranta ca va rasplati efortul depus.

Recomandari pentru activitatile gradinarului amator in spatiul rezervat cultivarii zarzavatului si cel al florilor.

Cultivarea legumelor. . Se continua pantarea rasadurilor de legume restante din luna mai, la ardei, rosii, vinete, etc.. Se planteaza conopida, varza de toamna, varza rosie, varza de Bruxelles, broccoli, gulia de toamna, toate pe un sol fertilizat in prealabil cu ingrasamant ortganic.. Dupa eliberare de culturile precedente (de ceapa verde, salata, spanac, mazare) terenul se curata de resturile vegetale, se sapa si se niveleaza pentru culturile succesive: ridichi de toamna, castraveti de toamna, fasole.. Se leaga lastarii de vita de vie si se aranjaza frunzele pentru ca ciorchinii sa primeasca suficienta lumina. Se stropeste via.. Se continua plivitul, prasitul si irigarea gradinii de zarzavat.. Se continua combaterea daunatorilor ce ataca legumele.

Gradina de flori.. Este timpul ingrijirii trandafirilor. Se taie florile vestejite si se administreaza fertilizantul specific.. Se scot din pamant bulbii de narcise si de lalele, de acum ofilite.. Acolo unde exista, se iriga abundent maslinul.. Se culeg capsunile, ciresele, caisele, piersicile si prunele.. Spre sfarsitul lunii, se curata si se taie gardul viu cu frunza cazatoare.. Se tunde peluza cand cerul este noros, pentru a evita uscarea ierbii.. Se reface peluza in punctele unde iarba a fost distrusa si se pregateste aerisirea covorului ierbos.. Plantele care sunt deja inflorite pot fi subdivizate si transplantate.. Se combat insectele nocive si se aplica substantele potrivite antiparazitare.. Nu se planteaza nimic pe luciul apei.. Se uda plantele de preferinta dimineata: astfel se evita ca udatul de seara, datorita unei excesive umiditati, sa riste formarea mucegaiului.  . Se adauga turba la pamantul plantelor acidofile (la rododendroni, camelii, azalee si gardenii) daca se descopera frunze ingalbenite sau maronii.. Se elimina ierburile ce napadesc terenul cultivat.

 IULIE- Atentie! Rosiile care incep sa se maneze pot fi salvate prin ruperea regulata a frunzelor si indepartarea fructelor stricate.

Calendarul gradinarului: Iulie (I)

Sambata, 04 07 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot Gradina cu plante ornamentale

In iulie, luna aflata in plina vara, trebuie sa ne relaxam, sa stam la soare inconjurati de culorile si parfumul florilor specifice sezonului. Iar pentru ingrijirea plantelor din gradina sau de pe terase si balcoane, trebuie sa ne rezervam o zi cu un soare mai putin intens.

•Daca nu ati ajuns sa fertilizati inca bordurile, nu e prea tarziu sa o faceti acum.

•Arbustii si gardul viu ornamental necesita fetilizare. Acesta din urma are nevoie de o doza mai crescuta de fertilizant deoarece, crescand aproape unele de altele, plantele tind sa sustraga  una de la cealalta substantele nutritive.

•Datorita caldurii specifice acestei perioade a anului, este esentiala udarea si stropirea plantelor cu maxima regularitate. Nu se va lasa niciodata ca terenul sa se usuce prea tare.

•Picaturile de apa pot cauza arderea pajistei, dar mai ales a florilor si frunzelor. Dincolo de faptul ca partea cea mai mare a umuiditatii tinde sa se evaporeze imediat sub arsita soarele de la amiaza. Motiv pentru care se recomanda ca udarea sa se efectueze dimineata devreme sau seara.

•Udarea de dimineata devreme  diminueaza riscul infectiilor cu ciuperci.

•O udare abundenta de doua ori pe saptamana este preferabila uneia zilnice de cateva minute. Motivul? O cantitate mica de apa nu va penetra destul de profund pentru a ajunge la radacinile plantei.

•Se vor taia florile vestejite ale plantelor perene, pentru a le stimula cea de a doua inflorire.

•Chiar si trandafirii trebuie supusi acestui tratament, deoarece productia de false fructe slabesc planta. Se adminisreaza fertilizantul potrivit pentru a permite rozelor sa-si revina.

•Doar dupa ce ultimele flori se vor vesteji va fi posibila trecerea la o drastica curatire a ramurilor, la inaltimea primei frunze complet dezvoltate.

•Nu mai asteptati pentru a furniza sustinerea si legarea plantelor. Un neasteptat ropot de ploaie poate cu usurinta sa le doboare.

•Acum si daliile, gladiolele si trestiile sunt gata sa apara, avand nevoie de o sustinere: ideali sunt tutorii cu inaltime reglabila.

•Se va adauga un strat de ingrasamant natural organic la baza rododentronilor si azaleelor. Radacinile lor cresc chiar imediat sub stratul superficial, tinzand astfel sa se usuce usor.

Ce se poate face inainte de plecarea in vacanta?

Cu ceva timp inainte de plecare, se recomanda indepartarea florilor si saculetelor cu seminte ale plantelor. La inapoierea din vacanta, se va constata ca plantele au produs mai multe flori. in caz contrar, acestea nu vor mai inflori decat la anul.

Curatirea ramurilor plantelor

•Arbustii se pot toaleta imediat dupa inflorire. Ramurile cu flori pot fi taiate imediat dupa inflorire la inaltimea unui nou vlastar. Daca nu au aparut noi mladite, se pot taia la nivelul solului.

•si trandafirii fara flori pot fi taiati, deoarece falsele fructe slabesc planta. Se va administra fertilizant specific pentru a permite plantei sa-si recupereze fortele.

•Noii vlastari de glicine se vor retaza la o lungime de circa 15 cm.

•Noii vlastari de vita de vie pot fi taiati la inaltimea celie de a patra frunze.

•Imediat ce a inflorit lavanda, se pot taia cateva spice ce vor fi puse la uscat.

•Micile saculete cu lavanda uscata vor oferi un minunat pafrum prosoapelor din dulap.

•Daca pomii fructiferi au fost toaletati in timpul iernii, in mai si iunie le apar multe mladite drepte. Cu cat curatirea ramurilor a fost mai drastica, cu atat aceste mladite sunt mai abundente, absorbind  multa apa si substante nutritive. Luna iulie devine perioada ieala pentru toaletarea acestor vlastari.

•Se va reduce numarul de fructe de pe meri, peri si pruni. Se vor indeparta fructele cele mai mici pentru a oferi fructelor ramase o mai mare posibilitate de dezvoltare.

•In aceasta luna se  vor administra pomilor fructiferi oligoelemente impreuna cu minerale, printre care extractul de alge. Astfel, in aceasta faza de crestere, pomii vor fi mai rezsitenti la boli si infectia cu ciuperci.

Peluza

•Are nevoie sa fie tunsa cu regularitate in aceasta luna. in cazul unei peroade prelungite de soare, iarba nu va fi taiata prea scurt, pentru a nu ingalbeni.

•Pentru a obtine rezultatele cele mai bune, in fiecare luna se va administra peluzei fertilizantul, alegandus-e o zi noroasa, pentru a se evita formarea tipicelor pete galbene.

•in cazul unei prelungite perioae de seceta, pajistea va fi udata cu regularitate: o udare cu apa din abundenta de doua ori pe saptamana este preferabila unei reprize zilnice de 15 minute.

Ce se poate face inainte de plecarea in vacanta?

Se va tunde peluza ininte de plecare, dar nu mai mult de 2/3 din lungimea ierbii, deoarece se reface greu si tinde sa se ingalbeneasca. Se va uda prin stropire fina pana cand primii 10 cm de pamant se vor umezi.

Plante in vase

•Toate plantele din ghivece au nevoie sa fie udate in fiecare zi sau, daca este prea cald, de doua ori pe zi.

•Exceptie fac plantele suculente sau cele subtropicale (spre xemplu Yucca sau palmierul pitic). Acestea nu vor suferi daca o zi nu au fost udate.

•Nu vor fi uitate nciodata cosuletele suspendate. Plantele in cosulet tind sa se usuce foarte repede. Deoarece sunt suspendate, evaporarea apei este mai mare si astfel plantele au nevoie sa fie udate cel putin o data pe zi.

•Se va folosi apa de ploaie de cate ori este posibil. Daca trebuie utilizata apa de robinet, va fi lasata un timp la soare. Plantele nu se simt bine daca sunt udate cu apa prea rece.

•Saptamanal se va furniza plantelor din jardiniere si ghivece fertilizant lichid sau sub forma de granule.

•Cosurile suspendate necesita fertilizant in fiecare saptamana. in mod particular, pentru plantele anuale, chiar daca sunt cultivate in jardineire sau ghivece.

Ce se poate face inainte de plecarea in vacanta?

Plante de din ghivece tind sa se usuce cu usurinta, deoarece radacinile lor au o suprafata prea mica de unde sa-si extraga apa. Se recomanda sa fie mutate in cea mai umbroasa zona a gradinii. Acelasi tratament va fi rezervat si plantelor de apartament care isi petrec vara in aer liber.

Calendarul gradinarului. Iulie (II)Duminica, 05 07 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot Gradina de zarzavat si fructe

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Este luna propice pentru adminsitrarea de oligoelemente si minerale pomilor fructiferi pentru a deveni mai rezistenti la boli si infectii cu ciuperci.

Este timpul sa se reduca numarul de fructe produse de meri, peri si pruni. Vor fi indepartate fructele cele mai mici, pentru a le oferi celor ramase o mai mare posibilitate de dezvoltare....

•Se culeg caisele si piersicile inainte de a ajunge la completa maturatie.

•Daca s-au plantat dovlecii, se va controla daca nu au pus stapanire pe tot petecul de pamant. Se poate trece la polenizarea manuala atunci cand cerul este acoperit de nori. Planta are flori fie masculine fie feminine. Se prind petalele de flori masculine si se strang delicat stigmatele florilor feminine.

•In caz de ploaie, dovlecii sprijiniti pe pamantul ud putrezesc cu usurinta. Pentru a combate acest lucru, se va asterne dedesuptul lor o „patura” de paie sau, chiar daca este inestetic, dar eficace, o bucata de polistiren.

•Noile mladite de vita de vie vor putea fi taiate la nivelul celei de a patra frunza.

•In cazul strugurilor cu boabe mari se vor inlatura jumatate din ciochini. Este indicat sa ramana un ciorchine pe coarda vitei respective, indepartandu-se strugurii cu boabele cele mai mici.

•Daca s-au toaletat pomii fructiferi in timpul iernii, in mai si iunie se vor ivi multi vlastari. Cu cat taierea lor a fost mai drastica, cu atat aparitia lor este mai abundenta, absorbind din plic apa si substantele nutritive. Iulia devine peropada ideala pentru indepartarea acestotrmladite.

•Se vor reduce numarul fructelor pe meri, peri si pruni. Se vor indeparta fructele cele mai mici, pentru a le oferi fructelor ramase o mai mare posibilitate de dezvoltare.

•In aceasta luna se administreaza pomilor fructiferi oligoelemente si minerale, precum si extracte din alge. Astfel, in aceasta faza de crestere, pomii vor deveni mai rezistenti la boli si infectii cu ciuperci.

•O data ce gradina a fost sapata si fertilizata se poate incepe, din mai si pana la jumatatea lunii iulie, semanarea legumelor de vara, printre care feniculul si, pregatitor pentru iarna, diversele tipuri de varza.

•Carotele semanate in prealabil pot fi acum recoltate. Locul de unde au fost scoase se va umple si se vor compacta, pentru a nu lasa sa patrunda in pamant potentialii paraziti.

•Se va controla cu regularitate razoarele capsunilor pentru a observa daca nu au aparut buruienile.

•Se va administra saptamanal capsunilor (inclusiv celor din vase) o doza de fertilizant lichid cu un continut ridicat de potasiu.

•Se culeg capsunile mature.

•Plantele de tipul patrunjelului, mararului si cimbrisorului se pot culege si usca sau congela.

Ce se poate face inainte de plecarea in vacanta?

Se va controla daca au aparut paraziti sau buruieni in gradina de zarzavat, ce se vor elimina cu maxima atentie. Toate fructele si legumele aproape mature se vor recolta, altfel vor putea putrezi in aceasta perioada de absenta, generand paraziti, ciuperci si alte boli.

Daca nu exista persoane de incredere care pot ingriji gradina in aceasta perioada de vacanta, se pot adopta urmatoarele precautii:

•Nu se vor lasa plantele in plin soare. Preferabil sa fie asezate in ghivece de teracota, pe un suport de caramizi, in vana de la baie in care se lasa putina apa. Fie caramizile fie ghivecele de teracota vor absorbi apa si vor ramane umede.

•Plantele au nevoie si de lumina. Atat lumina directa de la soare cat si umbra pot sa le distruga. Se recomanda sa fie adunate toate plantele si  acoperite cu o folie de plastic transparenta, pentru a reduce la minimum evaporarea.

 AUGUST- grabeste strangerea cepei, dar inainte de depozitare pastreaz-o la soare cateva zile;- continua recoltarea castravetilor pentru muraturi;- strange rosiile pentru sucuri si bulion, dar nu uita sa continui copilitul si carnitul lor; - spre sfarsitul lunii poti incepe recoltarea cartofilor, dupa o prealabila verificare daca s-au maturat suficient;- fasolea uscata pentru consum se aduna, se despoaie si se mai pastreaza la soare cateva zile inainte de depozitare;- pentru o productie sporita de ardei vei continua fertilizarea cu azot si potasiu;- continui recoltarea vinetelor, ardeilor, verzei de vara, pepenilor galbeni si verzi;

- in livezi incepe adunarea merelor de vara (imediat dupa ce roua s-a uscat) si se continua recoltarea piersicilor si a caiselor tarzii;- incep sa se coaca strugurii timpurii, dar atentie, acestia nu se recolteaza decat daca sunt complet copti, caci altfel sunt acri;- nu uita sa semeni pe sol bine maruntit salata, pentru obtinerea rasadului de plantat la inceputul lunii octombrie;- daca vrei sa ai hrean cu radacina dreapta si groasa, indeparteaza radacinile laterale;- pe terenuri eliberate se poate semana spanac, morcov si patrunjel, pentru productia de primavara. 

Calendarul gradinarului: august (I)Sambata, 01 08 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot Gradina cu plante ornamentale

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In aceasta luna gradina si balconul sunt pline de miresme si culori vesele, transformandu-se in adevarate saloane in aer liber unde te poti bucura din plin de racoarea lungilor seri de vara.

Zilele noroase sunt insa cele ideale pentru a te dedica intretinerii plantelor, pentru a le asigura o prelungita si bogata infloresceta.

Lucrari specifice de gradinarit in luna august

● Udarea sau stropirea cu regularitate a plantelor sunt esentiale daca se doreste o inflorescenta abundenta si viguroasa. Solul nu trebuie lasat sa se usuce prea tare.

● Picaturile de apa pot deveni mici lentile de marit, arzand covorul ierbos si, mai ales, frunzele si florile. Apoi, pentru ca marea parte a umiditatii se evapora aproape instantaneu sub soarele fierbinte al amiezii, momentul ideal de udare este dimineata devreme sau in orele serii.

● Merita retinut si faptul ca udarea plantelor dimineata devreme  poate diminua riscul de infectii cu ciuperci.

● Se prefera udarea abundenta de cateva ori pe saptamana, in loc de udarea minora de fiecare zi, deoarece o cantitate de apa scazuta va penetra cu dificultate in profunzimea pamantului, pentru a ajunge la radacinile plantei.

● Imediat ce incep sa se ofileasca, se vor inlatura florile plantelor perene pentru a stimula cea de a doua inflorire.

● Se vor lega si asigura plantele ce au devenit inalte, deoarece un vant puternic iscat pe neasteptate le poate rupe.

● Daliile, gladiolele si trestiile de flori cresc foarte rapid, avand nevoie de sustinere. Tutorii reglabili sunt cei mai potriviti.

● Se va distribui un strat de gunoi vegetal (frunze uscate, putrezite) imprejurul bazei rododendronilor si azaleelor, deoarece radacinile lor, ce cresc imediat sub stratul superficial de pamant, tind sa se usuce.

● Daca nu satisface in totalitate pozitionarea unei plante de o anumita culoare, poate fi legat in jurul acesteia o panglica in aceeasi culoare cu ea. Cand inflorescenta s-a incheiat, panglica va aminti culoarea plantei, aceasta putand fi mutata  intr-un loc mai convenabil.

● Pot fi imediat recoltate, uscate si puse la pastrare pana la primavara viitoare semintele de mac, Delphinium si Nigella damascena (chica-voinicului). In alternativa, ar putea fi semanate imediat pentru asigurarea unei alte frumoase inflorescente pentru anul urmator.

● Bulbii florilor de toamna pot fi plantati de la inceputul lunii iulie pana in septembrie.

● Gardul viu se tunde pentru a doua oara.

● Se planteaza crizantemele si rusticele Aster, dar si irisul si florile ce apar primele primavara, cum sunt ghioceii, narcisele, etc.

● Bulbii florilor de primavara se vor planta incepand din septembrie, in orice caz inainte de aparitia zilelor friguroase. Este deci acum momentul ideal de a se concepe noile proiecte pentru gradina cu plante ornamentale si de a pregati noii bulbi ce vor da florile primavarii.

TAIEREA SI SCURTAREA PLANTELOR

● Dupa inflorescenta, hortenziile cataratoare pot fi taiate la nivelul zidului.

● Se taie ramurelele de lavanda in perioada de inflorescenta, pentru a le putea usca: se introduc intr-un saculet din bumbac, se lasa la uscat, plasandu-se apoi in dulapul cu albituri. Vor darui rufelor si prosoapelor un parfum proaspat, deosebit de placut.

● Se trece la ultima  toaletare a arbustilor si a gardului viu mereu-verde inainte de venirea iernii.

● Se indeparteaza capitul vestejit al trandafirilor pentru a impiedica  productia de seminte (bobocii de trandafiri) ce ar epuiza planta; apoi se va administra gradinii de trandafiri fertilizantul specific pentru a-i mentine vigoarea.

● Dupa ce ultimele flori s-au ofilit, se pot taia ramurile cu flori in intregime, pana la nivelul primei frunze bine dezvoltate.

● Noile ramuri de glicine pot fi taiate la o lungime de 15 cm.

● Se sustrag cu regularitate toate florile ofilite ale daliilor, begoniilor, belsitei (Canna indica) pentru a le stimula o noua inflorescenta.

Calendarul gradinarului: august (II)Duminica, 02 08 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot Gradina de fructe si legume

Se va respecta „letargia” de vara a plantelor, o forma de repaus ce le ajuta sa combata caldura. Se va continua udarea lor, dar se va opri administrarea ingrasamantului pana la sfarsitul lunii.

● Se aduna fructele de padure crescute in gradina: coacaze, mure, zmeura, afine. Se vor conserva o parte sub forma de marmelade, gemuri, gelatine, siropuri. Se pot utiliza si proaspete pentru a fi preparate serbeturi, inghetate, sucuri, servite ca atare sau ca aperitive.

● Se vor culege capsunile prinse inca de tulpini: fructele vor dura mai mult, iar plantele nu vor fi subiectul infectiei cu ciuperci.

● O data ce capsunile au fost recoltate, vechile plante vor fi inlocuite cu altele noi provenite dintr-o pepiniera sau din plantele nascute din stolonii plantei originale.

● La inceputul lunii pot fi plantate (nu foarte adanc, pentru a nu putrezi), sortimentele tarzii de capsuni.

● Se vor uda pomii fructiferi in fiecare zi.

● Se incepe adunarea merelor timpurii de vara, dimineata, dupa ce roua s-a zvantat. La fel si perele. Pentru a fi mai aromate, se recomanda sa fie culese inainte de a fi pe deplin coapte, fiind depozitate cateva zile.

● Se continua recoltarea caiselor (tarzii) si a piersicilor. Acestea se culeg doar cand au ajuns la maturatia completa.

● Crengile pomilor foarte incarcate cu fructe trebuie sprijinite.

● Se pot culege si primii struguri, cu conditia sa fie deja copti.

● Noile coarde ale vitei de vie pot fi taiate la lungimea celei de a patra frunze.

●  Daca se doreste ca vita de vie sa produca boabe de struguri foarte mari, se va elimina circa o jumatate din ciorchini si toti ciorchinii prea mici din ramurile ramase. Ideal ar fi sa fie lasat un singur ciorchine pe o ramura.

● Dupa prima inflorire de primavara a pomilor fructiferi, in mai si iunie au aparut multe mladite drepte. in punctele unde ramurile pomului au fost taiate drastic, pot sa apara multe astfel de ramurele ce absorb multa apa si substante nutritive, care ar fi mai utile in alta parte. Este momentul potrivit pentru eliminarea acestoa.

● Dar tot acesta este si momentul  de a rari fructele merilor, perilor, si prunilor. Se indeparteazi fructele cele mai mici, astfel incat cele ramase sa aiba o mai buna posibilitate de dezvoltare.

● In aceasta luna se administreaza  pomilor fructiferi  unele ologoelemente si minerale, daca s-ar putea cu extrac de alge. In aceasta perioada de crestere, pomii vor fi mai rezitenti la boli si la infectiile cu ciuperci.

● O data ce au fost culese bacele si fructele, arbustii pot fi si ei toaletati.

● Se recolteaza: rosiile, ardeii, ceapa, vinetele, cartofii, castravetii, prazul, laptuca, varza alba, legumele cu pastai, sfecla, ridichile.

● Carotele semanate inainte pot fi recoltate. Se vor umple cu pamant gaurile lasate, dupa care terenul va fi compactat: este o masura pentru a descuraja actiunea afidelor carotelor.

● Daca in gradina au fost plantati dovlecii, trebuie controlat daca nu au invadat tot terenul din jur. Se poate incerca polinizarea manuala a florilor masculine si feminine. Florile feminine pot fi usor identificate prin acea ingrosare aparuta sub floare, ce se va transforma intr-un fruct imediat dupa polinizare.

● Daca ploua, dovlecii aflati direct pe pamant pot sa mucegaiasca.

● Ierburile ce produc seminte, cum sunt mararul, coriandrul si chimionul pot fi recoltate si uscate.

● Pe tot parcursul lunii ceapa are nevoie de un sol uscat, dar la mijlocul lunii se poate planta sau sadi ceapa de iarna.

● Varza, roiile, telina, ardeii si castravetii, daca este nevoie, mai pot fi o data feritilzati, dar numai la inceputul lunii.

● Tometelor li se vor scurta inflorescenta in a doua parte a lunii.

● Se seamana in alternanta cu alte plante, patrunjelul, apoi spanacul, morcovul, pentru productia de primavara.

SEPTEMBRIE- acum este momentul strangerii semintelor pentru primavara. La tomate, se aleg fructele mari, specifice soiului, sanatoase, coapte bine. Rosiile se zdrobesc bine, se pun in vase cu apa, unde se spala bine. Dupa ce s-au spalat se indeparteaza de pe seminte resturile de pulpa si se lasa apa sa se linisteasca. Semintele bune se lasa la fund, in timp ce semintele seci plutesc la suprafata. Semintele bune se spala bine si se pun la uscat, la soare. Cand s-au uscat trebuie sa aiba o culoare albicioasa-argintie. În medie la 10 kg tomate se obtin 30-50 g samanta ( in functie de soi). La ardei, pentru extragerea semintelor se taie fructul in jurul coditei, apoi se scot semintele (codita cu seminte se aseaza pe un ziar si cu mana se desprind semintele). Acestea se spala in apa, se separa semintele bune de cele seci prin punerea lor in apa si decantarea apei. Se usuca la umbra, iar semintele se rasfira intr-un strat subtire (1-2 cm). Din cand in cand se rascolesc cu mana, pentru a se usca mai repede. Cand sunt uscate au o culoare galben-aurie. Se pastreaza pana in primavara in pungi de hartie. Din 15 kg ardei se pot obtine in medie 100 g samanta. La vinete, cand fructele au ajuns la maturitate, se zdrobesc, se toaca marunt, apoi pulpa se pune intr-un vas cu apa, unde se  freaca bine cu mainile pentru a separa semintele de pulpa. Semintele bune sunt grele si se lasa la fundul apei, separate de cele seci, usoare, care raman la suprafata. Cele bune se spala, se usuca la umbra si apoi se pun in pungi de hartie. La castraveti se aleg fructele mari, galbene, care au ajuns la maturitate. Se lasa la soare 6-7 zile, dupa care se extrag semintele. Se taie longitudinal fructul si cu o lingura se scot semintele, se spala si se lasa in apa. Apoi, dupa cateva ore acestea se desprind usor de mucilagiile care le inconjoara. Semintele bune raman la fundul vasului, se scurg, se usuca la soare in strat subtire de 1-2 cm, cat mai repede, pentru a nu se innegri. La salata, semintele ajung la maturitate la 25-30 de zile de la inflorire. Plantele se taie, se fac snop, se duc la umbra pentru uscare. Dupa o saptamana snopii se scutura bine deasupra unui ziar, se vantura si ramane samanta buna, care se pastreaza in pungi de hartie. La ceapa, semintele se recolteaza dimineata, pe roua, pentru a nu se scutura. Se taie cu tija intreaga, se fac snopi mici, se usuca la umbra, dupa care se scutura capsulele, sa iasa semintele, care sunt de culoare neagra. Se vantura semintele si se pun la uscat in strat subtire.

Calendarul gradinarului - septembrieMarti, 01 09 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot

Vara inca nu s-a sfarsit si in gradina mai sunt inca multe lucruri de admirat: primele panze de paianjen decorate cu picaturi de roua, bace si fluturi multicolori si splendida lumina  de sarsit de vara reflectata pe petalele florilor. Dincolo de admiratie, mai este  inca mult de lucru.

 

Gradina in general

• Se vor lega sau sustine cele mai inalte plantele ce produc flori si, daca e necesar, se vor indeparta semintele.

• Se vor recolta semintele pentru sezonul urmator. Se lasa la uscat intr-un loc intunecos si uscat, dupa care se introduc in saculete de hartie.

• Se va controla daca plantele perene nu sunt infestate cu paraziti.

• Se taie florile ofilite si frunzele in exces, care vor fi utilizate pentru  compozitul destinat intretinerii plantelor.

• Se vor indeparta florile de vara ce incep sa se ofoleasca.

• Se vor controla zonele ce au ramas fara vegetatie de pe bordurile aleilor (sunt utile bucatile de panglici colorate pentru a aminti  culoarea plantei ce va fi puse in loc).

• Se plivesc in continuare buruienile.

• Se vor adauga pe marginile aleilor  plante ce vor inflori in sezonul rece.

• Se vor selectiona bulbii planelor ce vor inflori la primavara si se va incepe proiectarea gradinii din primavara urmatoare.

• Daca exista intentia de a se achizitiona noi trandafiri, acum ei se afla in plina inflorescenta. Deci, acesta este momentul potrivit pentru vizitarea gradinilor deschise publicului si gradina prietenilor sau vecinilor in cautare de noi idei.

• Se vor lega noile vlastare ale trandafirilor cataratori. Multa atentie la efectuarea acestei operatiuni: micile crengute nu se vor fixa foarte strans de spaliere, ci se va lasa un minim de joc.

Plantele din gradina

• A sosit momentul plantarii arbustilor cu ramurile cazatoare, a trandafirilor si pomilor.

• Daca se doreste divizarea plantelor perene, se scot acum din pamant, se impart si se planteaza partile cele mai tinere (externe) ale plantei.

• Se planteaza noile perene in brazde. Terenul este cald inca, ceea ce va permite  plantelor sa-si dezvolte cu rapiditate noile radacini. inainte de inceputul iernii, vor avea suficiente radacini care le vor asigura stabilitatea.

• Nu se va uita asezarea ghemului radical al plantei crescute in vas intr-o galeata cu apa ininte de a fi plantata in aer liber. Are nevoie de toata apa posibila. Cu toate acestea, solul in care va fi plantata nu va fi prea tare udat.

• Se pun in pamant bulbii plantelor ce vor inflori la primavara. Se pot planta lalelele, zambilele si narcisele conform cerintelor traditionale (se va controla atent distantele dintre ele).

• Se adauga putina culoare iernii  daca se planteaza varza ornamentala, rezistentele panselute si arbusti  cu bace colorate.

• Aceasta luna va fi  optima pentru plantarea sau mutarea arbustilor mereu-verzi, a coniferelor si plantelor cataratoare.

• Arbustii, arborii si coniferele ce se intentioneaza sa fie transplantate luna viitoare, pot fi pregatiti acum, prin taierea radacinilor in cerc in jurul bazei. in asteptarea transplantului, groapa respectiva va putea fi umpluta cu truba in pulbere.

Taierea si curatierea crengilor

• Florile hortensiei pot fi lasate sa se usuce pe planta sau se pot culege si usca in interior.

• Gardului viu din conifere, lemnului-cainesc si carpenului li se poate remodela forma. Gardul viu trebuie sa ramana mai larf la baza si mai stramt la varf.

• Se indeparteaza in mod regulat florile deja vestejite ale daliei, ale begoniei si ale trestiei pentru a stimula cresetrea noilor flori.

• Se curata iedera (daca operatiunea nu s-a efectuat inca) si merisorul. Ramurile merisorului pot fi utilizate ca butasi.

• Se poate taia drastic iedera cu inflorire estiva.

Tuberculi cu inflorescenta de vara

• Chiar daca daliile sau begoniile pot fi inca in plina inflorescenta, dupa primele zile reci va terbui sa fie scoase din pamant. Se scutura radacinile de pamant si se indeparteaza eventualele pariti vatamate. Tuberculii se vor usca intr-un loc adapostit.

• Imediat ce tuberculii cu inflorire de vara s-au uscat, vor fi inveliti in hartie de ziar si se vor aseza din nou intr-un loc ferit de inghet. Adevaratii pasionati de begonii asaza tuberculii, cu latura scobita in sus, in cutii de lemn cu pulbere de turba uscata.

Pajistea

•Vara tarziu este momentul ideal pentru efectuarea operatiunilor de mentinere a peluzei ori pentru o noua insamanta sau a recurge la un nou covor ierbos.

•Se dreg petele lipsite de vegetatie sau prea arse cu patrate de vegetatie sanatoasa sau se insamanteaza din nou zona respectiva.

•Se tunde pajistea o data pe saptamana si se uda din abundenta in perioadele cand ploua putin.

•Se grebleaza frunzele cazute care vor fi apoi imprastiate printre plantele perene de pe borduri.

•Pentru a accelera procesul de amestec, se imprastie un strat subtire de frunze peste gazon inainte de a tunde iarba, apoi se vor adauga frunzele maruntite la fel ca si iarba cosita la cumulul de ingrasamant vegetal.

•Se va feriliza pajistea pentru ultima oara inainte de aparitia sezonului rece pentru a avea un gazon verde inchis.

•Acesta este si momentul ideal de eliberare a pajistei de muschi. Acesta se va extrage din pamant sau se va stropi cu sulfat de fier. Daca problema persista, se va incerca un amestec de seminte pentru gazonul aflat la umbra.

Gradina de zarzavat

•Se vor scoate din pamant ierburile ce nu rezista la transplantarea in vase, cum ar fi patrunjelul, arpagicul si altele. Se vor pastra in bucatarie pentru o rezerva de ierburi proaspete in sezonul rece.

•De la jumatatea lunii, se culeg murele.

•Cand ultimele exemplare de zmeura au fost culese, se taie ramurile fructifere la inaltimea solului. Aceasta va favoriza cresterea noilor vlastare.

•Se poate incerca directionarea cresterii pomilor fructiferi pitici pentru a da o forma foarte ornamentala ghirlandei de fructe. Trebuie sa se lase sa creasca o ramura principala cu mici vlastare laterale, nu mai lungi de 30 cm. Plantand diverse tipuri de pomi la intervale de 50 cm, se va crea un ansamblu vizual foarte placut, pe langa deliciul fructelor.

•Se indeparteaza frunzele din jurul ciorchinilor de struguri pentru a le permite sa se bucure de lumina si soare. Astfel boabele vor fi mai mari si mai dulci.

•Pe peretii orientati spre sud, se pot cultiva piersici, caise si struguri.

•Este momentul bun pentru culegerea merelor si a prunelor tardive. Fructele cazute la pamant trebuie culese imediat. Fructele adunate dintr-o gradina calda, trebuie lasate sa se raceasca o noapte inainte de a fi inmagazinate. Oricum, fuctele vor fi pastrate intr-un loc racoros si intunecos.

•Se poate incepe plantarea oricarui tip de pom fructifer. Char daca gradina este de mici dimensiuni, se pot cultiva plante pe spaliere de-a lungul unui perete, ocupand astfel foarte putin loc.

• Rosiile si dovlecii care la sfarsitul lunii septembrie nu au ajuns inca la maturitate pot fi lasate da se matureze intr-un spatiu din interior.

 OCTOMBRIE- se scot cartofii de toamna;- morcovii, patrunjelul, pastarnacul se scot pe timp uscat, se zvanta, se curata de frunze si se depoziteaza in pivnita;- se recolteaza ultimii ardei, care au devenit dulci si carnosi;- rosiile necoapte se pot smulge din vrejuri cu tot si se pun la adapost si intuneric, unde se coc;- se recolteaza varza si se pune la murat;- se recolteaza vinetele, ardeii, guliile, morcovii, patrunjelul, pastarnacul, telina;- se recolteaza gogonelele, care pot fi puse la murat sau pot fi depozitate in pivnita sau in incaperi mai calduroase, unde cu timpul se inrosesc si se pot consuma ca rosii coapte. Se vor depozita numai gogonelele sanatoase; pivnita inainte de depozitare trebuie aerisita, curatata si dezinfectata;- se defriseaza terenul de resturile vegetale si se pregateste terenul in vederea fertilizarii;- se sapa terenul, pe masura ce s-au recoltat ultimele legume;- Nu uita! Pentru a avea legume proaspete primavara devreme, este timpul sa le cultivam - ceapa verde (de stufat), usturoiul verde, salata, spanacul, loboda, toate acestea rezista bine la temperaturi joase: se planteaza rasadul de salata pentru primavara, cu 2-3 udari obligatoriu; se seamana morcovii, patrunjelul, mazarea, ceapa si usturoiul pentru recoltele timpurii de anul viitor;- se recolteaza merele, perele, gutuile, nucile, prunele;- se aduna porumbul care este copt;- se mai pot aduna semintele de ceapa si loboda;

- pentru protejarea pomilor tineri de inghet si de rozatoare vom pune frunze moarte in jurul lor si le vom acoperi tulpinile cu saci.

Calendarul gradinarului - octombrieSambata, 03 10 2009, 00:00

In aceasta perioda a anului apar bacele multicolore care, impreuna cu frunzele de toamna, isi incep spectacolul de culori aprinse, transformand  lucrarile necesare din gradini intr-o adevarata placere. Timpul poate fi inca foarte frumos si cald, dar nu este exclusa aparitia noptilor deosebit de reci.

 

Se incepe prin curatarea bordurilor si a plantelor perene.

•Pregatirea plantelor perene pentru iarna, aplicandu-le o toaletare corespunzatoare si protejandu-le de frig, daca este necesar.

• Insemnarea zonelor dezgolite de pe borduri, cu ajutorul unor panglici colorate, pentru a reaminti ce tonalitati de culori sunt indicate pentru plantare.

•Se taie florile plantelor ce nu vor mai inflori si frunzele in exces, utilizandu-le pentru compostul de ingrasamant.

•indepartarea plantelor de vara, anuale, ofilite.

•Extirparea buruienilor.

•Adunarea cu rabdare a frunzelor cazute si utilizarea lor pentru compostul de protejat plantele, trandafirii si arbustii de ger. Un strat de 10 cm va fi suficient.

•Plantele de stanca sunt mai sensibile la umiditate decat la temperaturile scazute. Poate ca li se pot construi mici acoperisuri pentru a le proteja pe cele mai delicate.

•Fixarea noilor mladite de trandafiri cataratori de o spaliera.

Plantare

•Se pot pune in pamantul din gradina arbustii  cu foioase, tufisurile de trandafiri si arborii.

•Plantele perene ce au devenit prea  indesate si greoaie pot fi acum reduse si divizate, iar partile tinere (cele externe) pot fi repuse in pamant.

•Se pun in pamant, pe bordurile de delimitare, plantele deabia achizitionate. Solul retine inca suficienta caldura pentru a putea sa le faca sa prinda radacini.

•Se planteaza plantele cu bulbi cu flori in borduri si chiar in ghivece.

•Se asaza, fie in ghivece fie in cosuri, bulbii florilor in straturi, pentru a se asigura obtinerea unei mase de culori luna dupa luna. Se asaza mai profund bulbii cu inflorescenta cea mai tardiva, acoperindu-se cu un strat de pamant de ghiveci (un pamant fertil). Se adauga apoi bulbii cu inflorescenta cea mai precoce. Se repeta operatiunea pana se umple ghiveciul sau cosul.

• Se aleg plante cu inflorescenta de iarna pentru borduri, cum sunt varza ornamentala, panselele rezistente si arbustii cu bace, pentru a avea o gradina colorata chiar si iarna.

Peluza

•Se grebleaza frunzele cazute si se imprastie printre plantele perene ale bordurilor.

• Pentru accelerarea procesului de compostare, se imprastie peste peluza un strat subtire de frunze. Se trece apoi pe deasupra aparatul de tuns iarba. Ceea ce s-a obtinut din tuns impreuna cu frunzele se poate folosi pentru un compost sau poate fi imprastiat printre plantele de pe borduri.

•in aceasta perioada a anului, larvele de opilioni de perete pot sa atace peluza, acestea fiind in stare sa manance radacinile ierbii. Se va utiliza un pesticid corespunzator pentru a elimina acest mare neajuns.

•Peluza mai poate suferi si din cauza unei mari varietati de ciuperci, printre care si „cercurile magice” . Primele semnale constau in formarea unor cercuri de iarba ce cresc neasteptat de viguroase. Ciupercile apar spre sfarsitul verii si toamna. Se va utiliza impotriva lor fungicide ce contin sulfura de fier pentru a elimina atat cercurile magice cat si ciupercile.

Eliminarea bulbilor de vara

•Daca inca nu au fost indepartate gladiolele, operatiunea trebuie efectuata imediat, uscandu-le si stocandu-le pentru iarna.

•Daliile, begoniile si cannas ar putea fi inca in plina floare. Cu toate acestea, dupa primul inghet, si acestea pot fi indepartate: se agita solul fertil, se elimina partile deteriorate si se lasa sa se usuce intr-un loc ferit.

•Odata ce tuberculii si bulbii de vara sunt uscati, se infasoara in ziare vechi si se asaza in locuri ferite de inghet.

Plante de ghiveci

Toate plantele ce cresc in ghivece, jardiniere si alte diverse vase vor fi clasificate ca plante sadite, incluzand si plantele de apartament ce au fost soase afara in timpul verii.

•Unele dintre ele, daca si-au realizat dezvoltarea completa, pot petrece iarna in aer liber (pana la -12ºC).

•Vasele se invelesc cu hartie de ambalaj si se aplica un strat de gunoi vegetal in jurul radacinilor.

•Plantele subtropicale sadite, cum ar fi Oleandru, Hibiscus si plantele citrice ar trebui sa fie protejate de inghet, fiind aduse in interior sau in sere.

•Pelargoniums (muscatele), Fucsia, Punica pot fi toaletate delicat si asezate intr-un loc uscat, luminos si racoros. Trebuie udate suficient pentru a le preveni uscarea.

Gradina de fructe si zarzavat

•Se poate incepe plantarea varietatilor de pomi fructiferi, chiar si in gradinile din ors, care nu dispun decat de un spatiu extrem de redus.

•Pomii fructiferi pitici pot fi facuti sa creasca sub forma de ghirlanda. in prezenta arbustilor foarte mici, se va lasa una dintre ramurile principale foarte lunga: din aceasta vor pleca ramurile mai mici (cu o lungime sub 30 cm). Se lasa distanta de 50 cm intre pomii cu diferite tipuri de fructe.

•In zonele temperate se pot planta piersicii, caisii si strugurii in spatele zidurilor orientate spre sud.

•Luna octombrie este ideala pentru a planta kiwi.

•Continua sezonul de recoltare a merelor, perelor, prunelor mai intarziate. Fructele cazute trebuie imediat indepartate pentru a preveni raspandirea bolilor. Fructele culese vor fi depozitate intr-un loc racaros si intunecos.

•Se plivesc de buruieni razoarele goale de flori. Gunoiul de grajd proaspat si cel in proces de descompunere se pot imprastia la sfarsitul lunii.

•Se scoate arpagicul, patrunjelul si alte ierburi care nu rezista la inghet, putand fi plantate in vase. Se pastreaza in bucatarie, pentru a avea ierburi proaspete toata iarna.

http://www.agenda.ro/news/news/23462/calendarul-gradinarului-octombrie.html

 NOIEMBRIE- pe masura ce gogosarii se coc, sunt culesi si pusi la borcan;- sfecla rosie mai poate fi recoltata, curatata de frunzele verzi si depozitata in pivnita;- se mai culege porumbul, se taie cocenii si se pun pe foc;- zarzavaturile vor fi recoltate dupa 1 noiembrie, dupa caderea brumei;- varza se recolteaza tot acum;- toamna se scurteaza radacinile pomilor batrani pentru a le prelungi viata. O lucrare care da bune rezultate la pomii batrani carora li s-au aplicat taieri de regenerare este si intinerirea radacinilor. Aceasta lucrare se face fie in toamna premergatoare regenerarii, fie primavara, inainte de intrarea pomilor in vegetatie, si consta in saparea unui sant circular in dreptul proiectiei coroanei pe sol, adanc de

60-80 cm si lat de 60 cm. Toate radacinile se taie cu fierastraul de pomi si se scot. Apoi santul se acopera cu pamant amestecat cu ingrasaminte. Pentru un pom se socotesc 150 kg gunoi de grajd bine putrezit, 3 kg superfosfat si 1 kg sare potasica. santul se umple pe trei sferturi, se toarna 10 caldari de urina de grajd subtiata cu apa (1 parte urina si 3-4 parti apa). Dupa udat santul se umple definitiv cu pamant. La pomii batrani se face o scurtare foarte puternica a ramurilor de schelet astfel incat jumatate din lungimea lor se taie. Trebuie insa sa respectam cateva reguli la taierea de intinerire: 1) punctul din care se face scurtarea ramurilor trebuie sa se  afle deasupra unor ramuri lacome sau a unei ramuri laterale; 2) in locul unde se face taierea, ramura nu trebuie sa fie au groasa de 8-10 cm. Pentru asigurarea unei incarcaturi normale de fructe pe pom, este bine sa se faca si rarirea ramurilor de rod, stiut fiind ca distanta normala intre ele este de 10-20 cm. Trebuie pastrate ramurile de rod cu pozitie laterala, acestea fiind considerate cele mai bune.

http://www.gradinamea.ro/Calendarul_gradinii_de_legume_4873_543_1.html

Calendarul gradinarului - noiembrieMarti, 03 11 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot

Din aceasta luna natura isi incetineste ciclul sau vital. Este momentul sa se intervina asupra plantelor si terenului. Este recomandat sa se treaca la ultimile preparative pentru iarna, dar fara graba.

 

Daca timpul permite, pentru gradinarii pasionati exista mereu ceva de facut. Gradina poate sa aiba inca  un aspect foarte frumos, datorita ultimilor flori ramase din vara.

Sfaturi generale

•Se vor acoperi toate perenele cu un strat de frunze, compost sau amestec de compost cu turba.

•Se va protaja de frig baza rhododendronilor, a azaleelor si a hortenziilor.

•Se va mentine umed terenul din jurul plantelor mereu-verzi. Nu se va uita nici gardul viu cu frunza necazatoare.

•Se vor acoperi trandafirii altoiti cu paie sau amestec de compost cu frunze, ori se vor folosi „gulere” pentru trandafiri in zona altoirii, extrem de sensibila, invaluind-o cu paie si frunze, fixate cu panza de sac. Acesta din urma trebuie legat sub altoi.

•Se leaga impreuna erbaceele inalte si li se protezaja rizomii.

•Se vor aduna ceea ce a ramas din plantele anuale ramase in gradina, dupa caderea brumei.

• Se vor curati ghivecele si jardinerele, depoziandu-le cu capul in jos.

•Se vor goli tevile si tuburile de udare.

•Se inched robinetele externe.

•Se  asaza suportii pentru pasari.

Plante

•Se vor planta in continuare arbusti, trandafiri si perene daca temperatura nu scade sub zero.

•Daca inca nu s-au plantat bulbii pentru flori, se poate face acum daca temperature nu scade sub zero.

• Se aduna ultimile flori de hortenzii care, lasate pe planta pana la primele zile friguroase, si-au asumat tonalitati de verde cu nuante aramii. Se vor elimina frunzele de prisos si se asaza in vaze sau cani, fara apa.

•Arbustii, rozele si alte plante deabia asezate in locul lor in gradina vor fi protejate cu un strat de frunze, gunoi de grajd sau alte materiale organice. Ceea ce va impiedica terenul sa se usuce, va proteja radacinile de ger si le va stimula cresterea.

•Daca se doreste transpantarea arbustilor robusti cu frunza cazatoare  sau a celor cataratori este mai bine sa se faca dupa cateva nopti foarte reci. Este important ca plantele sa fie bine umezite.

•Se elimina, pentru ultima data, ierburile infestante.

Taierea gardului viu

Daca gardul viu a crescut peste masura este momentul sa fie taiat. Acest lucru este valabil pentru gardul viu mereu verde (cum este tisa si majoritatea gardului viu cu frunza cazatoare), dar nu si pentru conifere.

•Un gard din pari acoperit cu iedera are aspect de gard viu, putand fi tratat in acelasi mod. Ramurile mai lungi pot fi taiate, la nivelul intregului gard.

•si glicinele ce cresc pe un asemenea gard sau pe o pergola pot fi acum  taiate. Se aleg vlastarele tinere si se leaga impreuna pentru a crea mai mult spatiu pentru toaletare. Mladitele laterale din ramurile mai vechi se vor taia la o inaltime de circa 10 cm, imediat deasupra unui vlastar.

Peluza

•Se aduna ultimile frunze cazute.

•Se tunede pentru ulima oara gazonul inainte de venirea iernii si, daca este necesar, se impristie turba si fertilizant.

•Daca se doreste obtinerea unor rezultate excelente pentru anul urmator, acum este momentul aerisirii pajistei: daca nu ploua, se efectueaza cateva forari.

Adunarea bulbilor de vara

Daca daliile, begoniile si canna erau inca in plina inflorescenta in octombrie, bulbii lor se afla in pamant. Este momentul sa fie extrasi. Se vor scutura pentru a le indeparta pamantul si se vor indeparta portiunile vatamate. Se lasa sa se usuce intr-un loc ferit.

•Imediat dupa ce bulbii si tuberculii s-au uscat se vor inveli in hartie de ziar  se se depoziteaza intr-un loc ferit de ger.

Plantele de ghiveci

•Toate plantele de ghiveci ce nu rezista la frig  vor fi aduse in intrior, daca se doreste sa germineze din nou in sezonul viitor. Se tin, timp de o saptamana, in semiumbra, intr-o incapere neincalzita. Gradat, se vor expune la lumina si la caldura din casa. Se stropesc putin frunzele cu apa.

•Ghivecele, spre exemplu cele ce contin hoste, pot fi asezate langa un zid, care adesea este un loc mai cald. Plantele vor fi acoperite cu un strat de frunze pentru protectie, la fel ca si spatiile dintre ghivece. Eventual, se acopera cu o folie usoara de plastic, dar sub care sa circule aerul.

•Arbustilor taiati conform canoanelor artei gradinaritului, trebuie sa li se asigure o udare regulata.

Pomii fructiferi si legumele

•Acestia pot fi toaletati imediat ce le cad frunzele.

•Se aduna ultimele fructe, la fel ca si ultimele legume din gradina de zarzavat. Se acopera cu folie de plastic sau cu paie ultimile legume.

•Unele exemplare de varza pot sa ramana in gradina, daruind o nota de culoare gradinii pe timpul iernii.

•Este momentul potrivit, la jumatatea lunii, pentru plantarea tinerilor pomi fructiferi. Frunzele ramase pot fi eliminate inainte de plantare.

•Pomii tineri se protejaza de inghet si, eventual, de rozatoare, acoperindu-le tulpinile cu panza de sac si presarand la baza frunze uscate.

Plantele de interior

•Plantele in ghiveci ce traverseaza iarna in interior, cum sunt fucsia si pelargonia (gerania) au nevoie doar de foarte putina apa.

•La sfarsitul lunii noembrie primii bulbi de flori (ce au fost fortati in octombrie) pot fi asezati in casa, in camera de zi, spre exemplu.

•Pentru a avea in casa lalele si zambile in plina inflorire  la inceputul anului nou, se vor planta bulbii in ghivece  sau in jardiniera imediat sub stratul de suprafata al pamantului. sofranul se planteaza la cativa centimetri in plus ca adancime, iar narcisele deabia se efectueaza o adancitura in pamant. Se acopera ghiveciul sau jardiniera cu un strat de muschi: efectul va fi surprinzator de placut.

•Bulbii de flori mai pot creste si intr-un pahar de apa, cum ar fi, spre exemplu, cei de zambile in carafe frumos modelate, ceea ce se poate incerca si cu alti bulbi de flori.

•Ghivecele si jardinierele se vor aseza in locuri racoroase si intunecate (in jur de 12ºC). Dupa circa 8 saptamani, majoritatea dintre acesti bulbi vor dezvolta vlastari.

Calendar legumicol - noiembrie 

Luna noiembrie in legumiculturaRadacinoasele care se recolteaza sunt: morcovul, patrunjelul, pastarnacul, telina pentru radacina, sfecla rosie, ridichi de iarna.

Varzoasele sunt: varza de toamna, varza rosie si conopida de toamna. La conopida se fac si ultimele udari pentru asigurarea necesarului de apa, deorece este o mare consumatoare de apa.

Pregatirea terenului se executa diferentiat, in functie de momentul infiintarii culturilor. La culturile care se infiinteaza toamna: ceapa verde, usturoi verde, ceapa si usturoi de toamna, se procedeaza la desfiintarea culturii anterioare si nivelarea de exploatare, aplicarea ingrasamintelor organice si a celor chimice greu solubile, urmate de o aratura adanca, la o adancime de 28 - 30 cm, maruntirea terenului, deschiderea rigolelor, modelarea si plantarea propriu-zisa. La culturile care se infiinteaza primavara, in ogor propriu, terenul se lasa in brazda "cruda" peste iarna.

Tot in aceasta perioada, se continua aprovizionarea cu materiale (turba, mranita, nisip, pamant de telina etc.), in vederea pregatirii amestecurilor de pam`nturi pentru producerea rasadurilor. Aceste materiale se cern si se pregatesc amestecurile, dupa diverse retete, se dezinfecteaza si se depoziteaza in locuri adapostite pana in momentul utilizarii.

Se face, de asemenea, aprovizionarea cu gunoi de grajd, care se aseaza in platforme si se foloseste pentru instalarea rasadnitelor cu incalzire biologica. In solarii, se executa recoltarea la conopida, salata, precum si tratamente fitosanitare, daca este nevoie.

Se pregateste terenul pentru infiintarea culturilor de ceapa verde, usturoi verde, spanac, prin desfiintarea culturilor anterioare, fertilizarea de baza, mobilizarea solului si maruntirea acestuia, modelarea, dupa care se planteaza sau se seamana, in functie de specie.

http://www.gazetadeagricultura.info/legumicultura/2072-luna-noiembrie-in-legumicultura.html

 

Intretinere culturi

irigat culturi infiintate intoamna(ceapa,usturoi, salata,spanac);

recoltat ultimele culturi de toamna (varza, ridichi, sfecla rosie) + transportat, decarcat, sortat, etc;

 

Pregatirea terenului

eliberat terenul de productia principala;

tocat resturile ramase cu discul si afanat terenul 12-15 cm; nivelarea terenului pentru anul urmator; fertilizat cu gunoi de grajd  30 tone/ha (pentru tomate, varza, ardei, vinete, castraveti,

dovlecei); fertilizat cu 300 kg/ha superfosfat si 150 kg/ha sare potasica (toate culturile in ogor

propriu) arat la 25-32 cm (toate culturile in ogor propriu) aratura nu se va grapa intoamna pentru a beneficia de efectul favorabil (inghet/dezghet,

zapada, ploaie);

 

Pregatiri pentru producerea rasadurilor

asigurarea gunoiului de grajd in platforme protejate

asigurarea amestecurilor pentru rasad (pamant telina si gradina, mranita, turba, compst frunze si nisip)

pregatirea, dezinfectarea si depoziterea amestecurilor conform retei;

 

Activitati organizatorice

actualizat graficul de activitati pentru etapa urmatoare;

estimat necesarului de forta de munca; estimat mijloacelor financiare; revizuit listele de materiale si de stocuri; analizat derularea contactelor de creditare, aprovizionare cu produse; analizat derularea contractelor de livrare a legumelor; pregatirea spatiilor de depozitare a legumelor ce vor fi livrate in cursul luniilor viitoare

(radacinoase; ceapa, usturoi, varza, ridichi, gulii)

 

Activitati de valorificare

transport recolta pentru conditionare sau la beneficiar;

conditionat recolta pentru piata (sorta, calibrat, facut legaturi, sters, lustruit, ambalat, depozitat in conditii optime pentru livrare)

http://www.gazetadeagricultura.info/legumicultura/753-Calendar_legumicol_-_noiembrie.html

In acesta perioada, se efectueaza lucrari de recoltare la legumele radacinoase,  si varzoasa.

DECEMBRIE

Calendarul gradinarului - decembrieMiercuri, 02 12 2009, 00:00 Doina Mot

Decembrie este luna de iarna in cursul careia ne putem astepta, oricand, la zile si nopti geroase.  Acum, in primele zile ale anotimpului rece, sa ne folosim de ultima ocazie pentru a recurge la masuri preventive importiva gerului, cum ar afi acoperirea plantelor excesiv de sensibile.

Sfaturi generale• Se vor controla ustensilele de gradinarit, se vor curita si se vor unge partile mobile.• Se vor ascuti la umed foarfecile de gradina cu ajutorul unei pietre de ascutit.• Se vor indeparta frunzele de pe stresini si din canalele de scurgere.• In cazul aparitie unor zile foarte friguroase, cu vant si uscaciune, coniferele ar trebui portajete cu perdele din retele metalice pentru ca acele sa nu devina maronii.• Se uda gardul viu mereu-verde care deabia a fost plantat.• Se scutura zapada grea de pe ramurile pendulante sau de pe gardul viu pentru a le impiedica ruperea.• Se curata eventualele recipiente pentru cuibare care se gasesc in gradina.• Se vor inchide robinetele externe.• Se vor face provizii de alune, biscuiti speciali, seminte si mere pentru pasarele, pentru a le ajuta sa depasasca cu bine lunile de iarna.

Plantele• Daca temperatura ramane peste 0ºC, este ultima posibilitate de a planta bulbii de primavara.

Taierea crengilor• Daca inca nu au aparut zilele geroase, se mai pot curata arborii.• Plantelor cataratoare si tufisurilor cu bace li se pot taia ramurile, pentru a le reda o anumita forma.• Arbustii cu inflorescenta estiva pot fi toaletati acum.

Peluza• Se vor culege toate frunzele cazute pe pajiste• Atentie: nu se va pasi peste gazon cand iarba este inghetata!

Plante in ghiveci• Cele ce traverseaza iarna in interior, cum sunt fucsia si pelargonio (muscata), au nevoie de o picatura de apa doar ocazional.• Tufisul de merisor si de lemn-cainesc din vase pot sa ramana in aer liber si pe timpul iernii. Nu

trebuie uitat sa se ude din cand in cand. Funzele isi pierd in continuare umiditatea prin evaporare, in special in zilele de iarna insorite. Cand temperaturile coboara foarte mult, arbustii pot fi protejati cu materiale de ambalaj.

Gradina de legume si fructe• Se imprasie faina de oase in jurul vitei de vie.• Se taie drastic via. Operatiune ce se poate face pana la jumatatea lunii ianuarie.• Plantele cataratoare cum sunt kiwi pot fi acuma curatate.

Plantele de interior. Se poate infrumuseta interiorul casei cu diferite varietati de plante de iarna. Se pot crea aranjamente speciale pentru Craciun din ghimpe, iedera, crengute de conifere, bace de maces, etc.• Bulboasele cu flori a caror crestere a fost fortata, cum ar fi lalelele, zambilele si narcisele, si-au format noi vlastare.• Imediat ce vlastarii au inflorit, bulbii pot fi aclimatizati la temperaturi mai ridicate pentru a inflori in interior. Se vor uda cu moderatie.• Mladitele de bulboase cu flori pot fi folosite in mod creativ in ghirlande sau in alte compozitii atractive.

http://www.agenda.ro/news/news/25418/calendarul-gradinarului.html

CALENDAR PRACTIC AL GRADINARULUIVa invit sa intocmim impreuna un CALENDAR PRACTIC AL GRADINARULUI, ca rezultat al experientei practice, in scopul cresterii performantelor si satisfactiei noastre.Pentru inceput, cateva repere teoretice, inspirate din cartea Elenei Selaru "Florile din gradina mea".

IANUARIE

- ghivece - repaos- semanat - tomate la caldura- planificare pentru sezonul cald- pregatire seminte si rasadnite (ghivece, tavi, etc.) pentru rasaduri- pregatire ghivece pentru transplantari

FEBRUARIE

- ghivece interior - repaos- cactusi si suculente - se incepe udarea- se transplanteaza fuchsiile, muscatele (pelargonium)- plantarea primavaraticelor (primula, panselute, etc) in jardiniere- plantarea bulbilor de primavara- "trezirea" tuberculilor de begonii si dalii - se pun intr-un compost usor umezit si se aduc la caldura- plantare copaci si arbusti cu radacina nuda- ingrasaminte (gunoi de grajd, vechi) in livada- pregatirea terenului pentru semanat salata, ceapa, usturoi- taierea merilor, perilor, vitei de vie (la sfasitul lunii) daca vremea permite- taierea tufisurilor care infloresc iarna

PRIMAVARA - lucrari importante

Februarie-Martie

Tunderea clematitelor din grupa 3- cam la 30-50 cm de baza dar sa ramana cate doua perechi muguri pe fiecare ramura. (Sunt clematitele ce infloresc numai pe ramurile din anul curent.)

Mai-Iunie

Tunderea clematitelor din grupa2 - dupa primul val de inflorire pe ramurile de anul trecut. Taierea se face cam la 50-60 cm de baza.

MARTIE:

- descoperirea plantelor protejate peste iarna- curatarea terenului de resturile vegetale nedescompuse- pregatireaa terenului pentru semanat/plantat- taierea la pomii fructiferi, trandafiri

APRILIE:

- curatarea plantelor perene de lastarii afectati, frunzele uscate, etc- saparea portiunilor libere dintre plantele perene- se seamana: Escholtzia californica (mac californian), Delphinium consolida (nemtisor), Gypsophilla (floarea miresei) Centaurea (albastrele)- se planteaza: Chrysanthemum (crizantema) Dahlia (dalia)- se prasesc Tulipa (lalea), Narcissus (narcisa)

MAI:

- se planteaza rasadurile de plante anuale- se scot: Viola (panseluta) Bellis perennis (banutei, paralute) Myosotis (nu-ma-uita)

IUNIE:

- se scot bulbii de Tulipa (lalea) Narcissus (narcisa), se curata, se sorteaza si se pastreaza- se curata plantele perene de florile trecute

IULIE:

- se seamana speciile bienale Viola (panseluta) Bellis perennis (banutei, paralute) Myosotis (nu-ma-uita)

AUGUST:

- se inmultesc si se replanteaza: Paeonia (bujor), Iris (stanjenel) Aquillegia (caldarusa)- se repica rasadurile de plante bienale

TOAMNA - lucrari importante

- imprastierea de ingrasaminte (de preferat naturale);- sapatul - dupa curatarea de resturi vegetale - la o adancime de cazma, ajuta la:- faramitarea si afanarea (in special a solurilor grele sau compacte);- scoaterea la suprafata a eventualelor larve , oua sau chiar daunatori care vor deveni hrana pentru pasari sau vor degera.

SEPTEMBRIE:

- incepe plantarea bulbilor : lalele, narcise, zambile

OCTOMBRIE:

- continua plantarea bulbilor - se scot din pamant radacinile tuberizate de Dahlia (dalie), tuberobulbii de Gladiolus (gladiola)

- se scot plantele anuale uscate- se planteaza la locul definitiv rasadurile de plante bienale- se inmultesc prin divizarea tufei majoritatea plantelor perene

NOIEMBRIE:

- se curata gradina de lastari, frunze, etc- se musuroiesc trandafirii - se acopera plante perene precum Kniphofia, tufanele si plantele bienale, cu frunze, paie, etc.

DECEMBRIE

- se reteaza la 5cm de sol tufele de tufanica (eu nu le-am acoperit niciodata);- se stropesc pomii si arbustii cu solutie pe baza de cupru (intr-o zi cu soare);- se curata, se ung si se depoziteaza uneltele;- se curata si se depoziteaza ghivecele (containerele);- se leaga (cat mai adunat) ramurile noi, lungi, subtiri si dezordonate ale plantelor. Astfel, nu vor fi rupte de vanturile puternice.- se "imbraca" plantele (arbustii) sensibile la ger (ex. Budleja);

--Message édité par le 24-08-07 à 23:05:38--

--Message édité par le 14-02-08 à 10:50:01--

--Message édité par le 14-02-08 à 10:57:39--

--Message édité par le 14-02-08 à 11:01:43--

--Message édité par le 14-02-08 à 11:06:10------------------------"Am vazut nu o data samanta mirabilace-nchide in sine supreme puteri."L. Blaga, Mirabila samanta

http://hertha.free-bb.com/sujet.php?sid=39300&cat=245928&id=371533&page=

Calendarul fenologic

Tocmai ati cumparat o casa noua, care are bineinteles si gradina. Felicitari! Ne bucuram nespus pentru dumneavoastra. Numai ca, asa cum spune un binecunoscut proverb “Spune-mi cum te imbraci, ca sa iti spun cine esti”, prin extrapolare, putem sa afirmam: “Arata-mi gradina ta, ca sa iti spun cine esti”. Pentru a avea o gradina deosebita, este foarte bine sa stiti ca fiecare activitate in interiorul gradinii, trebuie efectuata la timpul ei, in functie de perioada anului in care va aflati. Calendarul gradinarului, sau calendarul fenologic (fenologia – stiinta care se ocupa cu studierea fenomenelor naturii), are un rost foarte important, constituind impartirea exacta a anotimpurilor, prin observarea naturii si a oricarei modificari care se produce in natura. Deoarece fenomenul incalzirii globale afecteaza in mod deosebit natura, calendarul celor patru anotimpuri pe care le stim cu totii, nu mai are o foarte mare relevanta. Astfel, a fost necesara observarea naturii si a modificarilor care au loc in decursul unui am calendaristic. In functie de aparitia sau inflorirea anumitor plante reprezentative, putem deosebi 10 anotimpuri fenologice:

1. Inceputul primaverii – reprezentata indeosebi prin inflorirea ghioceilor, pe buna dreptate avand denumirea populara: “Vestitorii primaverii”;   

2. Primavara timpurie – reprezentata indeosebi prin inflorirea salcamului galben;3. Primavara tarzie – reprezentata prin inflorirea pomilor fructiferi;4. Vara timpurie – reprezentata prin inflorirea ierbii, golomatului;5. Mijlocul verii – reprezentata prin inflorirea vitei de vie;6. Vara tarzie – preprezentata prin coacerea paioaselor (grau, orz, ovaz, secara);7. Toamna timpurie – reprezentata prin inflorirea brandusei de toamna;8. Mijlocul toamnei – reprezentata prin scuturarea ghindei de catre stejar si a jirului de catre

fag;9. Toamna tarzie – reprezentata prin caderea frunzelor din copaci, uscarea firelor de iarba10. Iarna

Planificarea anuala a gradinii

Gradina noua si sanatoasaO gradina sanatoasa si noua inseamna... citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - IanuarieCe facem in ianuarie in gradina noastra... citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - FebruariePrimele activitati de gradinarit, primele flori, rasaduri si zarzavaturi, precresterea plantelor...

citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - Martie

Sfarsitul iernii, curatarea gradinii, gradina de zarzavaturi, trandafirii de gradina, tunderea trandafirilor... citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - AprilieVestitorii primaverii, plantele cu bulbi, laleaua, narcisa, crinul, gazonul... citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - MaiInflorirea gradinilor, mirodenii, tarhon, oregano si salvia, primele legume ale anului, salata verde, spanac, gulii, plante de ghiveci... citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - IuniePrima recolta de fructe si primele legume, distrugerea daunatorilor, lacul de gradina

citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - IulieCiresele, morcovii noi, arbustii, stropirea, distrugerea buruienilor citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - AugustPregatirile pentru anul urmator, Florile si fructele de vara. Gardurile vii citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - SeptembrieRecoltele de toamna, Fructele toamnei, Pregatirea gradinii pentru primavara citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - OctombrieConservarea roadelor, Vita-de-vie citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - NoiembriePregatirea pentru iarna a trandafirilor citeste tot articolul Planificarea anuala a gradinii - Decembrie- citeste tot http://www.gradina.ro/Gradina.aspxCARTE Calendar practic pentru gradinarit - sfaturi practice pentru intregul an (format A4)Pret: 71,37 LEI

Editura: Aquila93An apariţie: 2005Numar de pagini: 156 paginiTip coperta: tareISBN: 973-714-050-8Starea cartii:

nouaDisponibilitate: in stoc ADAUGĂ ÎN COŞDescriere Cuprins Comentarii Visul fiecarui gradinar este sa aiba parte de o gradina frumoasa, din ianuarie pana in decembrie. Indiferent daca este vorba de o gradina ornamentala, de o livada sau de una cu legume sau zarzavaturi, gradinarul se confrunta lunar cu noi si noi probleme: cum se

poate plivi eficient si cum se pot distruge daunatorii? Ce trebuie sa avem in vedere cand populam o gradina cu ierburi aromatice? Cum sa pregatim plantele pentru hibernat? Acest calendar raspunde la intrebarile dumneavoastra legate de gradinarit, pe langa aceasta oferindu-va si numeroase informatii si sfaturi practice. Structurata pe 12 capitole, lucrarea cuprinde explicatii clare si ilustratii minunate, referitoare la cele mai importante activitati lunare care se executa in gradini. Anuarul gradinii

Ianuarie: din strat in strat, inflorirea-sadirea-recoltarea, tunderea si altoirea, paturile germinative, organizarea gradinii

Febraurie: din strat in strat, inflorirea-sadirea-recoltarea, analiza si pregatirea solului, precultivarea, folii si mulci

Martie: tunderea pentru formare, ingrijirea trandafirilor....

"Inca din perioada incipienta a anului, regina florilor necesita o atentie deosebita. De corectitudinea muncilor pregatitoare depinde frumusetea covorului de flori. Acest lucru e valabil nu doar pentru tulpina trandafirului, ci si pentru mediul inconjurator unde infloresc aceste minunatii" (Straturile cu trandafiri)

http://www.librarie.net/carti/39321/Calendar-practic-pentru-gradinarit-sfaturi-practice-pentru-intregul-an-format

Gardening tasks and projects

Gardening tasks and projects for JanuaryBecause the world has such a multitude of microclimates, it would be impossible for

me to create a list of gardening tasks that would cover everyone. Therefore I am writing this monthly list based on general weather patterns for the northern United States. Much of the information may also be useful for other areas of the world in

coming months.

Please feed the birds and other small creatures which may not be able to find food due to snow on the ground or other causes. For only a few dollars you can feed an enormous number of birds. If there is snow on the ground and you don't have a feeder, a simple piece of plywood, a scrap of carpet or even cardboard will create a very good feeding area. It's easy to clean it off turn it over if it happens to get covered by a fresh snowfall. You don't have to be a bird watcher to enjoy the feeling that you get when you've helped out one of God's creatures.

We had a few warm days recently, and some of my bulbs got the foolish idea that spring was near. Probably not a good idea since more icy weather is almost sure to come. Add a little compost and a thick layer of mulch to protect the tender new growth. This is an excellent use for the branches of your discarded Christmas tree.

In the event of snow, be sure to shake or brush off the white stuff from the branches of your evergreens and shrubs. The light fluffy snow poses no real threat, but if it should become wet and frozen, the weight dramatically increases. Branches are more brittle when the plants are dormant, and the weight of the snow may snap them off.

Dormant spraying of fruit trees, Cotoneaster, Dogwoods, etc. should be done this month.

It's a good time to prune most of your deciduous trees and shrubs.

Forsythia, Jasmine and Quince sprays can be cut and brought into the house now for forcing. The warmth in the home will bring some early bloom to your room.

Fireplace ashes should be saved to use a fertilizer for your Iris and other alkaline soil plants.

If the ground is workable at all (not frozen and not too wet), now is an excellent time to turn the soil. Not only will this expose insect eggs to the effects of winter and hungry birds, the freezing will help to break apart heavy clods of dirt.

Don't forget your house plants! Dust on the foliage can clog the leaf pores, so clean them up a little with a damp cloth, or a quick shower under the tap. Actively growing plants will benefit from a shot of liquid plant food. On very cold nights, it is a good time to close the curtains or blinds between the window and your house plants. Make certain that your plants have sufficient humidity, by setting them on a tray filled with clean pebbles, and a little water, or by simply setting a cup of water nearby.

You can force Hyacinth, Paper white Narcissus, and Lily of the valley bulbs into bloom indoors, in a shallow bowl of water, or in pots this month. If you can't have spring yet.... fake it!

Keep a close eye open for insects on your house plants. If you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse, be sure to check those plants carefully too.

Extra time this month might well be spent getting the garden tools ready for spring. Sharpen and oil tools such as shovels, shears, mowers and the like. Power tools such as weedeaters and power mowers may benefit from a good tune-up. Could the wheelbarrow use a fresh coat of paint?

It's not to early to begin to think of a strategy for new spring plantings. You might want to create a small map of your garden, and use it as a guide for ordering plants and seeds from the catalogs which will be arriving in the mail soon.

Hmmmmm..... so you thought there was nothing to do in the garden this month.....

The tasks and garden chores of FebruaryJanuary 28 ,1999

Even though it may still be cold, damp and miserable outdoors, an occasional dose of sunshine could certainly put the gardening bug into you. With a little luck, Mother

Nature will send a few blossoms your way this month. We are now at a time when we can no longer put off those garden projects, waiting for a nice day...... Don't be

caught off guard though, winter is far from being over! If exceptionally cold weather is forecast, provide protection to early flowering or tender plants by covering them

with some type of cloth material. Remove the covering as soon as the weather moderates again.

Shrubs and treesDeciduous shrubs and trees are still dormant enough to transplant this month, once the buds have begun to swell, it will be to late. Click these links for information on transplanting azaleas or moving specimen plants.

Trees which weren't fed last fall should be deep fed by punching a series of 1-2 inch holes two feet apart around the drip line and filled with an appropriate food. A mulch of well composted manure is also an excellent treat for your tree.

Mid to late February is the time to fertilize shrubs and evergreens. Use an acid type rhododendron fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use dry type fertilizers, be sure to water it in thoroughly.

Prune your summer flowering shrubs now but be aware that spring bloomers have already produced their buds last fall, and pruning them now will result in the loss of flowers. Forsythia, quince, spirea and other early spring flowering shrubs should be pruned a little later, after they have finished flowering. Pruning to improve the shape of the plant, as well as to open up the center of the plant to good air circulation and sun exposure. Always start your pruning by removing all dead, decayed or broken branches. Click these links for information on pruning roses or general procedures.

It's a good time to stroll around and trim back any branches that were damaged by the ravages of winter.

If you haven't yet applied your dormant fruit spray, DO IT NOW!!

Perennials, annuals, and bulbsPlants which may have been pushed out of the ground by frost heave should be pressed firmly back into place.

Plant daylilies, bleeding hearts, and plantain lilies this month.

Deciduous vines such as honeysuckle should be pruned and shaped.

Most perennials may be divided and moved up until they begin to show new growth.

Check your stored plants such as fuschias and geraniums, and if they are shriveled water them lightly.

Summer flowering bulbs may try to start into growth if they are subjected to heat. They should be kept very dry, and stored at 45 degrees F. If they are shriveling, put them into slightly damp peat moss, but keep them cool!

If you plan to grow lobelia, ageratum, verbena, petunia, vinca, or other slowing plants from scratch, the seeds should be started indoors in the later part of the month. For more information see growing plants from seeds.

Climbing roses should be thinned out to get rid of last years tangled growth.

Fruits and veggiesRhubarb, horseradish, asparagus and artichokes can be planted this month.

Kiwis and grapes must be pruned by Valentines day to prevent sap 'bleeding'.

Strawberries can be planted as soon as they become available.

Cane fruits (raspberries and blackberries), with the exception of everbearers should have all the canes which produced fruit last year removed.

If you grow currants, remove all trunks which are over 3 years old.

The vegetable garden should get its first tilling (if weather permits) to allow the weather to aid you in breaking up the dirt clods. Exposed weeds and seeds hopefully will perish. See Creating a new garden.

Odds and endsHouse plants may notice the longer days, and begin growing. You can begin feeding them again, but use a dilute 50% fertilizer mix until the growth is robust.

Continue feeding our feathered friends, you'll want them to stick around to help you in insect control when the weather warms again.

Did you check your garden tools yet? Don't wait 'til the spring rush to get your mower back in shape!

In the event of snow, be sure to shake or brush off the white stuff from the branches

of your evergreens and shrubs.

It's time to turn the compost pile!

http://www.thegardenhelper.com/calendar/February.html

The tasks and garden chores of MarchMarch 1, 1999

March is the month when many of the beautiful spring flowering perennials begin to flower. Aubrietia, Candytuft, Rock Cress, Bergenia, Snowdrops, Witch-hazel and many others will be brightening your days.

With Spring just around the corner, it is time to get serious and get the garden ready! The fickle weather of March makes it impossible to set dates and schedules

for planting, so proceed with caution!

The busy month of March Shrubs and trees In most areas it is still possible to do dormant spraying of fruit trees until the 15th, after that date dilute the spray by 1/2. Spraying should be done on a still day with the temperature above 40 degrees F. Late March and early April is a good time to transplant shrubs and trees. As soon as the soil is workable, but before buds have swelled or broken open, you can move shrubs and trees.

Fertilize shrubs and trees if this wasn't done in February. Use an acid type rhododendron fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.

Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use granular type fertilizers, be sure to water it in thoroughly.

Finish pruning fruit trees this month - before the buds swell.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbsThere is often a strong temptation to start removing winter mulches from your flower beds.... WAIT!!! Pull the mulch off gradually as the plants show signs of new growth. The purpose of winter mulch is to act as a protector from sudden changes of temperature and chilling winds, so keep in mind that it is still winter. Acclimatize your plants by removing the mulch over a period of days, allowing the

light and air to reach the new growth slowly. It is much better to remove the mulch a little later than to remove it to early.

Roses can be pruned this month. See the pruning roses page details on how to prune the various types of roses. Severe pruning results in nicer long stemmed flowers and more compact bushes. Begin to spray roses for blackspot.

Feed roses.

Sow seeds of summer blooming annuals indoors. Click for tips

Seeds which were started indoors last month may be transplanted from the flats into peat pots and given dilute fertilizer.

If you have a greenhouse, it is time to take cuttings of 'wintered over' plants such as Coleus, Chrysanthemums, Geraniums, and other perennials.

Alternating thawing and freezing can tear plant roots and even force the plant right out of it's hole. If you notice any plants that have heaved, push them back into the earth, and tamp lightly with your foot.

Divide and transplant summer blooming perennials and fertilize established ones as soon as new growth appears.

Plant tender bulbs and tubers (gladiola, lilies and dahlias). You may continue planting additional bulbs every two weeks until mid June to ensure a continuous source of bloom.

Prune winter Jasmine after flowering; cut honeysuckle back to 3ft.

Cut back established penstemons. Divide snowdrops while in leaf.

Remove all dead blooms from bulbs.

Fertilize any bulbs that have finished blooming with bone meal or bulb booster.

Plant Primroses and Pansies

Pinch off tips of Sweet Pea seedlings and Mums, when they are 4 inches tall.

Fruits and veggiesTake a little time to prepare the vegetable garden soil for planting. The addition of well-rotted manure, processed manure, peat moss or compost are good additives for building compost humus in the soil.

Peas and sweet peas may be planted right now as well as perennial vegetables like Asparagus, Rhubarb, Horseradish and artichokes. Eggplant, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, leeks, onions, early potatoes, and radish seeds may be planted in the garden about mid month.

Spinach, Chard, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and other hardy vegetables can be seeded or set out late in the month.

Plant Strawberries, Blueberries, Currants, Loganberries, Boysenberries, Grapes and fruit trees.

Add some steer manure around your Rhubarb.

Time to start tomatoes, lettuce, and many other vegetables from seed.

House PlantsHouse plants will react to longer days and brighter light at this time by putting out new growth. The end of this month is a good time to pinch them back to generate new growth and to thicken them. You can then begin fertilizing again with a dilute solution of soluble house plant food.

Turn your houseplants a quarter turn each week to make sure all sides of the plant receive adequate light, and to keep the shape of the plant balanced.

Mist or spray your houseplants to clean away the winters dust, prevent Spider Mites and add a little humidity.

Remain vigilante in watching for insects and pests. It is much easier to win a 'bug war' if you are aware of the infestation in it's early stages.

Odds and endsThe most dreaded tasks of all is weeding, but it is one that really needs to be accomplished before the weeds have a chance to flower and go to seed. Remember once the weeds go to seed you can be fighting that weed seed for up to seven years or more. Most weeds can simply be pulled or cultivated out of the garden while they are young.

Turn the compost pile, adding any course mulch which was removed from the garden to it.

Keep an eye out for Aphids (spray off with water) and Cutworms (Cutworm Dust).

Repair damaged areas of the lawn.... Dethatch, rake or aerate. Apply Dolomite Lime to sweeten the soil if needed. Most lawns will need a spring feeding but if thatching or liming needs to be done, do those jobs first.. If moss is a problem, a combination fertilizer and moss killer can be applied, to do both jobs in one easy application. Over-seeding can be done as the last step, after the lawn has been fertilized.

Test your soil for pH to see if any amendments are necessary. A general rule of thumb is to add 4 lbs. of lime per 100 sq. ft. of garden for every pH point below 6.5, or 1 lb. of sulfur per 100 sq. ft. for every pH point above 7.5.

Sawdust, composted oak leaves, wood chips, peat moss, cottonseed meal, and leaf mold lower the pH while ashes of hardwoods, bone meal, crushed marble, and crushed oyster shells raise the pH. The best way to adjust pH is gradually, over several seasons.

March is a good time to note areas of poor drainage. If there are pools of water in your yard that do not drain. Fill in the low spot or scoop out a channel for the water to drain away.

Clean out all of your birdhouses now, so that they will be ready when the birds return.

Repair any fencing, arbors, or trellis work that is weak or has broken over the winter ... before you get too busy!

Check the plants under the eaves of the house and under tall evergreens to see that they have sufficient moisture.

April Garden Tasks and ProjectsMarch 28, 1999

At long last, spring has arrived! (or has it?) As you look out upon your garden, does the nagging question of "where do I even begin" sound familiar? There is so much

to do in every corner of the yard this month that it is difficult to know where to start.In my opinion, the first and foremost thing to do is to stand back for a moment, and

simply enjoy the beauty that Mother Nature has given us.... Listen to the birds as they sing you a spring melody... dream a little, and then put on the gardening

gloves and head out to make your dream garden a reality!

Here are a few April garden projects that you can do to help keep your garden looking its best the rest of this season.

As you begin your quest for the perfect garden, don't overdo it! It's probably been a few months since you gave those muscles and bones a good workout, so start out slowly and

avoid that Monday morning backache.

Because the world has such a multitude of microclimates, it would be impossible for me to create a list of gardening tasks that would cover everyone. Therefore I am

writing this monthly list based on general weather patterns for the northern United

States (zones 6-8). Much of the information may also be useful for other areas of the world in coming months.

Shrubs and treesThere still is time to plant trees and shrubs. However, by mid month it will be a little

late to transplant large trees or shrubs, so do them now.The months of March, April and May are ideal for pruning evergreens. So if you have

a Juniper, Cypress or conifer that need shearing or pruning this is a good time to accomplish this task. Remove all dead, diseased, and undesirable wood. However,

do not prune back into the bare wood part of the plant. Prune your Forsythia after it finishes flowering.

Broadleaf and needle leaf evergreens benefit most from lightly spreading a high nitrogen fertilizer around their bases. Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

April is the month for planting summer flowering bulbs like dahlias, gladiolas and lilies. Mix bulb fertilizer, processed manure and peat moss into the planting soil. Tuberous Begonias and Canna should not be set outdoors until all danger of frost has passed,

so wait until next month.Plant annual seeds of asters, cosmos, marigolds, zinnias in the garden.

When all frost danger has passed you can move your stored fuchsias and geraniums outdoors. Trim them back, feed and re-pot if necessary. Water them well.

When they have finished blooming, you should deadhead your spring flowering bulbs. Do not cut off the green foliage yet! These green leaves continue to grow for a few

weeks, and provide the bulb with food for flowering next year.Divide perennials like Daylilies, Delphiniums, iris, chrysanthemums, Daisies,and Phlox.

The additional plants you create can be traded or given to friends, or moved to a new area of the garden.

Hybrid Tea Roses should be fertilized prior to buds beginning to bloom. Using a systemic fertilizer will help prevent insect infestation later in the summer, as it

feeds your rose.Plant new rosebushes before growth starts and buds swell.

If you have a pond or pool you should set aquatic plants any time after the middle of the month.

Fruits and veggiesControl weeds and aerate the soil by cultivating between the rows of plants.April is a great time to select and plant fruit trees and berry plants. Fruits and

berries do best when planted in full sun. Plant perennial vegetables like asparagus, rhubarb, horseradish, etc. It's also time to

plant peas, carrots, beets, spinach, cauliflower, cabbage, etc. Root crops like potatoes, radishes, parsnips and onions can be planted at anytime. Late this month

you can plant beans and corn. Warmer weather crops like tomatoes, squash, cucumbers and peppers should not be planted until next month.

As your direct-seeded crops sprout, be sure to keep them thinned out to avoid crowding.

Cut out all the dead canes from your raspberry patch. The new canes that will bear this year's fruit should have new, swollen buds along the edges. Thin these to five

canes per foot of row to allow good air circulation and prevent overcrowding.When danger of frost has passed, uncover strawberry beds and keep them well

watered. The lawn

The application of a spring type of lawn fertilizer should perk up the lawn and improve its over-all color and appearance. If there is moss growing in the lawn, use spring lawn fertilizer that has the moss-killer included, so you can do both jobs in

one easy application. Spring is also a good time to thatch and over-seed the lawn. Thatch buildup can

smother your lawn and provide an environment for diseases. Remove thatch with a brisk raking, or with a dethatching machine. Over seeding will help fill-in the lawn and deter the re-growth of moss and weeds. Use about one pound of quality grass seed for every 300 square feet of lawn area. Apply a light compost or soil over the

seed to keep it moist and in place. Aerating the lawn will allow water to penetrate deeper into the lawn soil and reduce

the need to water during the dryer months ahead. Use a garden fork and punch holes over the surface of your lawn.

As mowing becomes necessary, be certain that the blade is sharp to prevent tearing the grass tips. (Did you get the mower tuned up and sharpened back in January when I

suggested it????) Set the blade on your lawnmower to cut the grass at 2 1/2 inches to avoid scalping. (A mulching blade will eliminate the need to rake or bag the clippings,

prevent thatch buildup, and the clippings will provide food for the lawn.) House Plants

Rotate your houseplants so that each side receives it's share of light, for even growth and a balanced shape.

As the sun's rays strengthen, some plants, such as African Violets, may need to be moved away from a south-facing window to avoid leaf scorch.

Spring cleaning your plants will keep them beautiful and help to avoid diseases. Remove any spent flowers, dead leaves or branches, or any yellowing leaves. Rinse the dust from the leaves with the kitchen sprayer. Clean leaves allow the plant to

breathe!Pinching back the tips of foliage plants will stimulate new growth and make your

plant fuller and bushier.If you keep a Coleus as a house plant you can still start cuttings for transplant to the garden. Use a sharp clean knife to cut the stem just below a leaf node. Remove the lowest leaves, dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and insert it into some fresh, sterile potting soil. These cuttings will be ready to use as a bright garden accent by

early June.

Odds and endsIt seems that different states can't agree to a universal Arbor Day, but more than

likely the day exists in your individual state or country, at some point in this month.... Plant a tree!

Although we think of this as a rainy month, it can fool us. Keep transplanted flowers well watered during dry spells.

Be sure to take a little time to check the plants in containers and those under the eaves of the house and under tall evergreens to see that they are getting enough

water.If you receive mail-order plants or can't resist the urge to pick up a few perennials before you are ready, make a trench and heel them into the ground in a protected

area.Driving around the neighborhood, ar visiting a local nursery may give you some

great ideas of what you'd like to have blooming in your yard at this time next year.

Take a stroll in the woods or the park at least once each season to enjoy a little bit of Mother Natures gardening handiwork!

Remember that whatever you accomplish in the garden now will definitely cut down on yard maintenance later this season!

Gardening in the Merry Month of MayApril 30, 1999

The month of May is a time when the weather can either turn your garden into an Eden, or a wasteland. Be aware of the weather forecasts and trends.

Gardening guides and hardiness zones are based on past years averages, and can't predict a freak frost or snowstorm, or a prolonged spring drought. If a frost or cold weather is in the forecast, protect your tender plants with a mulch, newspapers,

light cloth or some type of overnight protection or a frost cap made with clear poly film tented over the plants. (Be sure to remove the plastic tent as soon as the danger is

over or your plants will bake in the sun).

On the other extreme, if the weather is sunny and dry, don't neglect your watering. Most flowers and shrubs need about an inch of water each week to perform well,

and newly planted seedlings will perish if their roots are allowed to dry out.

May is also a time of gardening inspirations and dreams. Look around yourself and notice what your neighbors are growing in their gardens and what they are creating

in their landscapes. Think of how you might utilize some of their ideas along with your own brainstorms to make your garden just a lil bit better.

Here are a few May gardening projects that you can do to help keep your garden looking its best the rest of this season.

Because the world has such a multitude of microclimates, it would be impossible for me to create a list of gardening tasks that would cover everyone. Therefore I am writing this

monthly list based on general weather patterns for the northern United States (zones 6-8). Much of the information may also be useful for other areas of the world in coming months.

Shrubs and treesIt's still not too late to fertilize your trees and shrubs. Use a 'Rhododendron' or an 'Evergreen' type of plant food to feed evergreens and acid loving plants like Rhododendrons, Camellias, Azaleas, and Junipers, etc. Use an all-purpose garden fertilizer (10-10-10) to feed roses, deciduous shrubs and trees. Be sure to water the

fertilizer in thoroughly after it is applied.

Early flowering deciduous shrubs such as Forsythias, Weigela, and Spiraea should be pruned back when they have finished blooming. Cut back a third of the oldest canes to ground level, then cut back one third of the remaining branches by one third of their height.

Remove the wilting seedheads from Rhododendrons and Azaleas, so that the plants energy can go to foliage growth and next years flowers, rather than seeds.

Work lime in the soil around your Hydrangeas to produce pink flowers or Aluminum Sulphate for blue.

Remove any sucker growths from fruit trees as soon as they appear.

Keep a vigilante eye on the roses. Keep them sprayed for aphids and other pests and diseases such as black spot.

Pines and other conifers can be kept to a compact size by pinching off the new growth 'candles'.

Lilacs should be pruned lightly after they finish blooming, removing sucker growths and dead blooms.. Feed lilacs in May with a good all purpose 10-10-10 fertilizer after they have finished blooming. If your soil has an acidic pH, work a little lime into the soil as well.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbsDahlias, Gladiolas, tuberous Begonias, Lilies and Cannas and other summer flowering bulbs can be planted this month. Gladiolas bulbs may be planted at 2 week increments until the first of July to provide you with cut flowers until the first frost.

Delphiniums, Phlox, Daylilies, Carnations, Aubrietia, Candytuft, Basket of Gold, Primroses, Coral Bells and Saxifraga and other summer flowering perennials may all be set into the garden any time in May.

Break off wilting Tulip or Daffodil heads but continue to feed and care for the plants until the foliage has died back naturally. Old plantings of Daffodils may be divided and moved when they have finished blooming, but treat them as growing plants and use care to protect the foliage and roots. Water them thoroughly after transplanting. It is best not to dig or move other spring flowering bulbs until their foliage has ripened and died back.

Pansies, Snapdragons, Dianthus, Petunias, Geraniums, Fuchsias and Impatiens should be ready to plant by mid month. Toward the end of the month, it should be warm enough to plant out the more tender annuals like Salvia, Zinnias, Marigolds, Lobelia.

Lightly sidedress perennials with an all-purpose 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 fertilizer. Avoid spilling the fertilizer on the plant, and use care not to damage the shallow roots when you cultivate it into the soil. Setting the stakes next to your taller flowers early in the season, will help to support the plant against winds as well as making it

easier to 'train'.

Promptly remove spent flowers from any plant unless your intent is to harvest the seeds. It consumes the plants energy to produce the seeds, and in many species of plants (especially annuals), removing the dead flowers will promote further blooms.

Fruits and veggiesCarrots, lettuce, potatoes, corn, beans, peas and most popular vegetables (with the exception of the warmer weather crops) can be seeded or planted into the vegetable garden at any time now.

Wait until mid to late May before planting the warmer weather crops like tomatoes, squash, cucumber, pumpkins and peppers.

With a little luck, you may begin to see the first fruit on your strawberries by late this month. The birds will enjoy them very much if you don't provide some protective netting over them. Newly planted strawberries should have the blossoms picked off until they become well established.

Gourds may be planted late in the month, if your growing season is long enough. .

LawnMay is a good month to repair your lawn. Fill in the bare spots by slightly loosening surface of the soil and sow a good quality lawn seed over the area evenly. Tamp the seed in gently and water. Keep the patch moist by covering with light mulch of lawn clippings. This is the time to eliminate lawn weeds by hand pulling, or the application of a 'weed and feed' fertilizer.... before they go to seed!.

Setting your mower for a higher cut during the spring months will help the grass to grow in fuller and help choke out the weeds.

House PlantsCheck to see if your house plants are rootbound. Water them thoroughly and carefully remove them from their pots. If the roots have compacted around the outside of the rootball, it is time to repot. Carefully examine your houseplants for pests and problems. It is much easier to fight an insect infestation or disease in it's early stages than to wait....

As the growth rate of your house plants increases with the seasons, adjust your feeding schedule to provide additional food. Feed your plants a good all purpose house plant food at half of the manufacturers recommended rates, increasing the proportion slightly to accommodate growth spurts. Overuse of fertilizers can cause root and foliage burn, as well as the death of the plant.

Mist your plants regularly. This adds to the humidity, keeps the leaves cleaner and healthier, and helps to prevent spider mites.

Odds and endsSlugs and snails are out in full force right now. Be sure to take steps to control them now, before they have a chance to reproduce and devastate your garden.

The first flowers you'll see will be your weeds. Work to eliminate the weeds (roots and all), before they have a chance to go to seed, or you will be fighting them for years to come!

If the weather refuses to cooperate with your gardening plans, and your seeds have refused to germinate due to cold and wet conditions, you may want to consider replanting a reserve crop (Just in case....)

The compost pile should be getting a lot of use these days, both in utilizing this prime garden resource, and adding fresh garden refuse to it. The compost pile should be kept damp. Frequent turning will turn your garden waste into flower food much faster.Gardening in the month of June

May 16, 1999Beginning this month I will try to get the monthly Gardening tips online a little earlier to help

those folks who are lucky enough to live in areas where the weather is actually spring-like already. These guideliness are based on gardening practices in the Pacific Northwest.

If your climate is more temperate, you probably should have already completed some of these tasks. If you still have snow,,, ick! you have my sincere sympathy, better wait a couple

weeks to do these.

Here are a few June gardening tasks and projects that you can do to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbsHas your spring been somewhat less than a sunny, gardeners delight? Haven't had enough time to get the garden looking quite right yet? 'Color Spots' may be your

quickest and easiest way of catching up with the neighbors. Color Spots are easy care, blooming size annuals which the nurseries have grown in 4" pots. They have taken care of the feeding, pinching and early care for you. The result is a nicely branched plant, blooming and ready to set in the garden. You will be able to see what your flower will look like before you even pick it out, and have have some early summer colors before the sun sets. Prepare the soil; water the new

plants before you remove them from the pot; plant the color spots at the recommended spacing on the label; water them again.

Result: I N S T A N T  C O L O R ! Pinch back any annuals, Fuchsias, Geraniums, Cosmos or any other plants that might be getting a little leggy.

Pinch your Chrysanthemum's to encourage them to be bushier and have more blossoms. Pinch them again, every 6 inches or so, as they grow.

This is an excellent month to pick out a few new perennials, and put them into the garden.

Divide spring flowering perennials like, Primroses, Arabis, and Aubrietia.

Once the soil has warmed, you may sow seeds for perennials directly into the garden.

Check your roses for mildew, aphid, black-spot or other insect or disease problems and if they appear take steps to control them right away.

Roses will need to be fertilized each month through the summer.

Make sure your climbing roses are securely tied into position. Prune them after blooming.

Deadhead your annuals to encourage more flowers.

Remove dead foliage from your spring flowering bulbs, but only after it has died back naturally.

Sow seeds for Flowering Kale and Flowering Cabbage for colorful plants next fall and winter.

Stake tall flowers to keep them from blowing over in the wind. Add a stake to each planting hole as you're transplanting, and tie the stem loosely to the stake as the plant grows.

As the weather dries out, your container plants may need daily watering especially if the pots are exposed to the drying sunlight.

Gladiolus corms can still be planted for successive blooms.

Tuberous Begonias can now be safely planted outdoors.

Once the foliage of Daffodils has died back, you may divide and move the bulbs to a new spot. Daffodil clusters should be divided up every 3 years to ensure good blooming.

Shrubs and treesThis is a good month for shearing, pinching or pruning Junipers, Cypress or Conifers. If you've been cultivating a special Christmas tree, sculpt it now.

Fertilize flowering shrubs like Rhododendrons, Camellias and Azaleas immediately after they have finished flowering with a 'Rhododendron' or 'Evergreen' type fertilizer.

Dead head the developing seed pods from your Rhododendrons and Azaleas to improve next years bloom. Be careful not to damage next years buds which may be hidden just below the pod.

It's hedge trimming time!

Fruits and veggiesStart any of the warm weather vegetables (Corn, Beans, Peppers, Egg Plant, Tomatoes, Squash, Pumpkins, etc.) as soon as possible.

Tap your tomatoe plants to encourage pollination; water every day and start feeding them weekly once fruits set.

Protect your fruit from the birds with netting.

After natural fruit drop in late June, thin fruits on apple, pear, peach, and apricot trees carefully to produce larger, better fruit. Peach trees need 50 to 75 leaves per fruit to manufacture food for both fruit production and tree maintenance. Apple trees need 30 to 40 leaves per fruit. Continue thinning your vegetable seedlings to provide ample room for growth.

Mound the soil up around your potato plants. It does no harm to the plant if the soil covers the stem. Tubers near the surface which are exposed to sunlight will turn green and poisonous. As early potatoes begin to die back, reduce watering.

Allow one or two runners to develop from the most productive strawberry plants.

Plant your Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, and Cauliflower for next winter's harvest.

Prune suckers and water sprouts from all fruit trees.

LawnFertilize the lawn this month. Use a complete lawn fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

If your lawn suddenly looks yellow or dies out in patches, the cause is probably due to an insect or disease problem such as Crane flies.

If the weather becomes hot and dry raise the cutting height of the mower.

It's not too late to reseed or over-seed the lawn. Be certain to keep newly seeded areas well watered.

Apply moss killers before temperatures reach 65 degrees.

Control Dandelions and other lawn weeds.

House Plants

House plants can soon be moved outside to a shady, protected spot.

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Warmer and drier weather means it will be necessary to water and mist your house plants more often.

Feed your house plants with 1/2 the recommended strength of a good soluble Houseplant fertilizer.

Odds and endsAt exactly 12:00 Noon, on June 15th, set your sundial for 12:00 to get the most accurate time reading throughout the summer.

Be alert to slug and snail damage... Seek and destroy ALL slugs!

Keep the weeds pulled, before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. Otherwise, you will be fighting newly germinated weed seed for the next several years.

Change the water in your bird bath regularly. Standing water may become a breeding ground for mosquito larvae.

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Gardening in the month of JulyJune 12, 1999

July is a time when you can sit back for a moment and enjoy the fruits of your labor in the garden. While there are still other ongoing tasks to perform in the garden, your primary concern will be assuring an ample supply of water for your plants.

Here are a few July gardening tasks and projects that you can do to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season.

Watering the gardenThe amount of water that your garden will need is going to depend on the weather

conditions in your area. The primary rule of summer watering is to water thoroughly

and deeply each time and to allow the soil dry out between waterings. Deep watering will allow the plant's roots to grow deeper, where they are less likely to dry

out, as well as the added benefit of anchoring the plant into the ground better. Light, surface watering actually wastes water, because the water never actually reaches the root zone of the plant, and the moisture rapidly evaporates from the

top inch of soil.The best way to tell if your plants are receiving enough water is to take a trowel or shovel and dig down a few inches. The soil should be moist at least 3 or 4 inches deep to insure that the water is reaching the root zone of the plants. Of course, if you planted drought resistant plants in your garden, you won't have to water as

often, but the principal of deep watering still applies. As the weather dries out, your container plants may need daily watering, especially if the pots are exposed to the drying sunlight. Push your finger into the soil in your container plantings at least

once a day (more often on hot, dry days) to feel for moisture and be certain that plants are getting enough water. Apply water until it runs out the drainage holes.

Try to do your watering during the morning hours so that the leaves can dry off a bit before the hot sun hits them. Evening watering is sometimes acceptable if the

temperatures are warm enough to insure that foliage dries before the temperature drops at night. (Wet foliage makes plants more susceptible to fungus and disease.)

Perennials, annuals, and bulbsContinue to dead head (remove dead flowers) your annuals to encourage continued blooming.

If your annuals have died off, pull them out and add them to the compost pile.

Replant that spot with hardy annuals or perennials, such as Pansies, Calendulas, or Armeria.

Get a second bloom from faded annuals by cutting them back by one half their height, then fertilize them with a liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer.

Roses will need to be fertilized each month through the summer. In colder areas, allow shrub roses to ripen by discontinuing feeding them at the end of the month.

Fertilize container gardens regularly with a liquid all purpose plant food.

Chrysanthemums should be lightly fertilized every two weeks. Discontinue pinching your mums in mid month so they will be able to develop flower buds for the fall. To promote 'trophy size' flowers, allow only one or two main shoots to develop. Remove all side buds as they begin to develop.

To produce the largest Dahlia flowers (especially 'Dinner plate' Dahlias), the main stems should be kept free of side shoots, allowing only the main terminal bud to develop. Be sure to provide adequate support to prevent wind damage.

Bearded Iris may be divided and replanted when they have finished blooming. Discard all shriveled and diseased parts

Sweet peas may tend to fizzle out with the hot summer weather, but with heavy

mulching to keep the roots cool and moist you can prolong the flowering season by a few more weeks. A little mid-day shade will also help to maintain the quality of the flowers and prolong the blooming season.

Verbenas, Euonymus, Pachysandra, Ivy, and climbing roses are some of plants that will root fairly quickly by layering them into the warm soil. Fasten a section of the stem containing one or more "eyes" down onto cultivated soil with a horseshoe shaped piece of wire and cover it with additional soil. By summers end, the stem should be rooted sufficiently to sever it from the parent plant and replant into another area of the garden..

Sow seeds of Hollyhocks, English daisies, Foxgloves, Violas, Canterbury bells, and Sweet William into the garden now for next year's bloom.

Geranium cuttings may be made in late July to start plants for indoor bloom during the winter months, and for setting into the garden next spring. You may need to provide supplemental lighting with fluorescent grow lights for really good winter blooms indoors.

Shrubs and treesSummer blooming shrubs should be pruned for shape after they have finished flowering. Remove any dead or diseased branches.

Fertilize flowering shrubs like Rhododendrons, Camellias and Azaleas immediately after they have finished flowering with a 'Rhododendron' or 'Evergreen' type fertilizer.

Dead head the developing seed pods from your Rhododendrons and Azaleas to improve next years bloom. Be careful not to damage next years buds which may be hidden just below the pod.

Fruits and veggiesBegin enjoying the harvest of your homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs!

Fertilize June bearing strawberries after the harvest, and ever-bearing varieties half way through the season.

Plant out successions of salad crops for continued harvesting throughout the summer. Sow seeds for cool-season crops directly into the garden by mid-July.

Continue to protect your fruit from the birds with netting.

Empty areas of the garden, where the crops have finished, should be replanted with either a fall vegetable crop, or a cover crop of clover or vetch to help control weeds. Cover crops can be tilled into the soil later, to add humus and nitrates to the soil.

LawnContrary to popular belief, a brown lawn isn't necessarily a dead lawn. Grasses go dormant in times of drought, but will quickly return to life with the fall rains. If a lush green lawn is important to you, and you don't mind mowing, water it regularly, and deeply. If a water shortage is expected, or you hate tending to grass, you may

choose to just let your lawn go dormant, and water it as seldom as once a month.

Raise the cutting height of the mower. Taller grass cools the roots and helps to keep the moisture in the soil longer.

Avoid using fertilizers in hot, dry weather.

House PlantsHouse plants can be moved outside to a shady, protected spot.

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Warmer and drier weather means it will be necessary to water and mist your house plants more often.

Feed your house plants with 1/2 the recommended strength of a good soluble house plant fertilizer while they are actively growing.

Odds and endsBe alert to slug and snail damage. These creatures will be hiding during the heat of the day, but will come out of hiding in the cool morning and evening hours or after a rain. Seek and destroy ALL slugs and their eggs!

Keep the weeds pulled, before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. Otherwise, you will be fighting newly germinated weed seed for the next several years.

Change the water in your bird bath regularly, and keep it filled. Standing water may become a breeding ground for mosquito larvae.

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Have a great month!!Gardening in the month of August

July 15, 1999While the list of gardening tasks for August is shorter than in many months, there

are still ongoing tasks to perform in the garden. The hot temperatures of mid summer make it tough to spend much time working in your garden, so take

advantage of any cooler days to take care of grooming and weeding. Right now, your primary concern will be assuring an ample supply of water for your plants.

Weed control is also very important, because with the warmer weather and increased watering, weed seeds will germinate and grow faster, and mature to the

point of producing more seeds. Take advantage of your spare time to keep the weeds cultivated out of all parts of the garden.

Here are a few August gardening tasks and projects that you can do to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season.

Watering the gardenWatering can be the biggest task this month particularity if the weather gets hot. Vegetable gardens, most flowering plants, and the lawn all need about one inch of

water every week to keep them green and looking nice.

Be sure to water thoroughly, and deeply each time you water. When possible, do your watering in the morning or early afternoon so the soil has a chance to warm up

before the cooler evening hours set in. Deep watering will induce the plant's roots to grow deeper, where they are less likely to dry out, as well as the added benefit of anchoring the plant into the ground better. Light, surface watering actually wastes water, because the water never actually reaches the root zone of the plant, and the

moisture rapidly evaporates from the top inch of soil. The best way to tell if your plants are receiving enough water is to take a trowel or shovel and dig down a few inches. The soil should be moist at least 3 or 4 inches deep to insure that the water is reaching the root zone of the plants. Of course, if you planted drought resistant plants in your garden, you won't have to water as often, but the principal of deep

watering still applies.

Be sure to check the hanging baskets and container grown plants every day during hot weather and about every second day on moderate summer days. Don't just check

the surface... Push your finger an inch or two into the soil to be sure there is adequate moisture below throughout the root area. Water them thoroughly each

time you water, but be careful not to overwater them. Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

Take out a few minutes to pick off the old dead flowers on your annuals, as well as the spent flowers on perennial plants. A little time spent on grooming the plants will make a big difference in the overall appearance of the garden. By removing the spent flowers, the plants will not go into the seed producing stage and should continue to flower longer into the season.

Perennial and biennial plants can be started from seed sown directly into the garden this month or next.

Container grown perennials, shrubs and trees can be planted this month. Always take time to properly prepare the soil by mixing generous quantities of peat moss, compost and processed manure with your existing soil.

Fall blooming Crocus should be planted this month, to give you an extra week or

two of flowers after the main garden plants have finished for the year.

Spring flowering perennials can be divided and transplanted this month or next. Be sure to do this during the coolest part of the day and water the plants thoroughly after transplanting.

Prune your hybrid roses in late August to promote the most fall blossoms. Remove about a third of the vigorous growth. Any stems that cross each other should be removed, as well as those that are in the center of the plant. Weak, spindly canes and any damaged by black spot fungus should be removed. Except in colder regions, roses should be fertilized through the end of September. Maintain a spraying schedule to control insects and disease.

Shrubs and treesSummer blooming shrubs should be pruned for shape after they have finished flowering. Remove any dead or diseased branches.

Fruits and veggiesNow is the time to start your fall and winter vegetables. Plant starters or seeds of green onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, radishes, and winter cauliflower directly into the garden early this month.

Enjoy the harvest of your homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs!

LawnContrary to popular belief, a brown lawn isn't necessarily a dead lawn. Grasses go dormant in times of drought, but will quickly return to life with the fall rains. If a lush green lawn is important to you, and you don't mind mowing, water it regularly, and deeply. If a water shortage is expected, or you hate tending to grass, you may choose to just let your lawn go dormant, and water it as seldom as once a month. Raise the cutting height of the mower. Taller grass cools the roots and helps to keep the moisture in the soil longer.

House PlantsLate this month Poinsettias and Christmas cactus should be brought back indoors and you should begin preparing them for Christmas flowering.

Poinsettias are short day plants. Although they will eventually bloom, if you want the plants in bloom for the holidays they must be kept at about 65 to 70 degrees, and subjected to at least six weeks of 14 hours of total darkness per day (mid to late September). This may be accomplished by placing the potted plant in a closet or unlighted room, or by covering the plant with black cloth, black plastic over a frame or a cardboard box.The plant must then be returned to the light each day and given a minimum of 4 hours of direct sun, or 10 hours of bright light. The application of a 0-10-10 fertilizer this month and again next should help encourage the development of flower buds, then feed your plant every 2 weeks with a high nitrogen fertilizer once color has begun to show.

Christmas cactus needs the same general care, with the exception that they require cooler temperatures of about 50 to 60 degrees.

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem. Warmer and drier weather means it will be necessary to water and mist your house plants more often.

Odds and endsKeep the weeds pulled, before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. Otherwise, you will be fighting newly germinated weed seed for the next several years. Weeds in the garden are harmful because they rob your plants of water and nutrients, harbor insects and diseases, and, on occasion grow tall enough to shade your flowers and plants. Change the water in your bird bath regularly, and keep it filled. Standing water is less healthy for the birds, and may become a breeding ground for mosquito larvae.

Continue to watch for insect, slug and snail, or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Gardening in the month of SeptemberSeptember 16, 1999

As the summer winds down to fall, it is time to clean up the garden and plan for next spring. Water trees and shrubs less, allowing them to harden off before winter

sets in. Remove spent annuals and compost them. Keep after the weeds and the slugs!

Here are a few gardening tasks and projects that you can do this month to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season, and

prepare for the long cold winter and upcoming spring.Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

During the fall months of September, October and November, after soil temperature drops below 60°F., the bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, Siberian squill, dwarf irises, Anemone, and crocus should be planted. Select healthy, disease free bulbs. Add Bone meal or Bulb fertilizer into the planting hole, as you prepare the soil.

Winter pansies, flowering Kale, flowering Cabbage, and fall mums may be planted now, to give a little color to the garden when the summers flowers have faded away.

Scatter the seeds of perennials in a row or in open beds this month so that the young seedlings will be ready to be transplanted into their permanent spot next

spring.

As the weather cools, perennials which have overgrown their space or become crowded should be dug and divided, or moved to a new area of the garden. New or replacement perennials can also be planted this month.

Tender bulbs should be dug up and stored in a cool, dark area after first frost.

Shrubs and treesFall is a good time to select and plant trees and shrubs. Fall planting encourages good root development, allowing the plants to get established before spring. If weather is dry, provide water up until the ground freezes.

Stop fertilizing your trees and flowering shrubs to allow this years growth to harden off before winter.

Fruits and veggiesHarvesting fruits and vegetables is the best part of growing them. As is often the case, you may have produced much more of certain type than your family can consume. Share the abundance of squash and tomatoes with friends and neighbors, and don't forget about your local food bank or second harvest organization! Although most fruits and vegetables are best when eaten fresh on the day they're picked, you can extend the season by freezing, drying, storing, or canning.

Fruits and vegetables should be checked regularly for ripeness. A little practice and experience will tell you when your produce is at it's peak of flavor, and that is when it should be harvested.

Plum trees should be pruned right after harvest, to insure a bountiful crop next year.

Once the tops of onions have withered, the bulbs should be lifted and dried in a warm, dry, sunny location for about 10 days. Then they should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place.

Some root crops, such as carrots, onions, and parsnips can be left in the ground in cold climates and dug up as needed. Apply enough mulch to keep the ground from freezing, and the crop will be kept fresh until it is needed.

After you have finished harvesting your summer vegetables, plant a cover crop of clovers, cow peas, soybeans, or vetches for the purpose of plowing under next spring. These nitrogen producing plants will provide good organic matter and food for your garden crops next year, as well as helping to control weeds over the winter.

LawnWhen the fall rains arrive, fertilize your lawn with a slow-release 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer.

September is one of the best months of the entire year for seeding or sodding new lawns.

If the lawn needs thatching, it can be done during the early fall.

Over seed old lawns with fresh seed to help fill in the bare spots and crowd out weeds and mosses.

House PlantsPot up some spring flowering bulbs for indoor color during the winter. Store the pots in a cool, dark place, until new growth emerges from the soil, and then move them to a bright window.

Begin conditioning your Poinsettias and Christmas cactus to get them ready for the upcoming holiday season. Both of these plants are short day plants. Although they will eventually bloom, if you want the plants in bloom in time for the holidays they must be kept at about 65 to 70 degrees, and subjected to at least six weeks of 14 hours of total darkness per day (mid to late September). This may be accomplished by placing the potted plant in a closet or unlighted room, or by covering the plant with black cloth, black plastic over a frame or a cardboard box.The plant must then be returned to the light each day and given a minimum of 4 hours of direct sun, or 10 hours of bright light. The application of a 0-10-10 fertilizer this month and again next should help encourage the development of flower buds, then feed your plant every 2 weeks with a high nitrogen fertilizer once color has begun to show.

Christmas cactus needs the same general care, with the exception that they require cooler temperatures of about 50 to 60 degrees. Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Odds and endsMark your perennials with permanent tags, or create a map showing their locations so you'll know where and what they are when they die back at the end of the season. This will help you to avoid digging up something you intended to keep when you plant bulbs and plants this fall and next spring.

One last effort at weeding will help to improve the appearance of your garden throughout the winter.

The birds will soon begin their winter migrations. Give them a helping hand by providing them with some food for their long journey. No one likes to travel on an empty stomach, and you may even persuade a few of them to stick around for the winter, if they know they have a reliable food source!

Continue to watch for insect, slug and snail, or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Gardening in the month of OctoberOctober 14, 1999

As the leaves change into their brilliant fall colors, and you awaken to a distinct chill in the air, you realize that winter is just around the corner. It's time to put the

garden tools away for the year, settle back, relax, and wait for spring to arrive......

WRONG!!!!!In most areas of the country, you will still have many tasks to accomplish... even

after the first frosts.

Here are a few gardening tasks and projects that you can do this month to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season, and

prepare for the long cold winter and upcoming spring.Perennials, annuals, and bulbs Right now Spring may seem a long way off, and not really on your mind. Remember the feeling you got as you went into your garden last Spring,,, and there

it was... the first new growth of the new year???Felt great, didn't it?

With a little planting effort now, you will speed the timing of that first new growth by as much as a month. During the fall months, after soil temperature drops below 60°F., the bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, Siberian squill, dwarf irises, Anemone, and crocus should be planted. Select healthy, disease free bulbs. Add Bone meal or Bulb fertilizer into the planting hole, as you prepare the soil.

Most spring flowering bulbs should be in the ground by the early part of this month, with the exception of Tulips which may be planted up until early November.

Gladiolas, Dahlias and other tender bulbs should be dug before the ground freezes, and stored in a cool, dark area. Dahlia and Begonia tubers should be stored in a box of slightly moist peat moss. Gladiola corms can be stored in a paper bag without additional packing.

Be sure that new plantings and perennials which were divided and moved last month are kept watered if there has been insufficient rainfall.

There is still time to set out winter pansies, flowering Kale, flowering Cabbage, and fall mums. Keep a little color in the garden for as long as possible.

Watch your thermometer on colder nights. A windless, cold, clear night usually means a killing frost.... You can keep your Chrysanthemums and Asters blooming for quite a while longer if you take the time to provide a little frost protection for them. A small, simple frame covered with cheesecloth or an old bed sheet placed over your plants on frosty nights, can add a month or more of garden blooms. (Don't forget to remove the cover as soon as the danger has passed!)

Geraniums, begonias, fuchsias, and other tender plants should be brought indoors or moved to a coldframe before the first frost.

Mulching fall planted perennials will keep the soil warmer longer, allowing root growth to continue, however, the plants do need time to harden off for winter. Spread a thin layer of mulch after fall planting, and then add a thicker layer once the ground has frozen.

Collect and save seeds of wildflowers to sow next spring.

Shrubs and trees Throughout the fall and winter months you can plant or transplant both evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs. During these months of dormancy you can do your shrub and tree moving with only minimal shock to the plants.

If your Rhododendrons or other shrubs have root weevils, release parasitic nematodes to soil under the affected plants.

Fruits and veggies Harvesting fruits and vegetables is the best part of growing them. As is often the case, you may have produced much more of certain type than your family can consume. Share the abundance of squash and tomatoes with friends and neighbors, and don't forget about your local food bank or second harvest organization! Although most fruits and vegetables are best when eaten fresh on the day they're picked, you can extend the season by freezing, drying, storing, or canning.

Dig and divide congested clumps of rhubarb.

Cut back raspberry canes that have grown too long, to prevent damage caused by winter winds.

Some root crops, such as carrots, onions, and parsnips can be left in the ground in cold climates and dug up as needed. Apply enough mulch to keep the ground from freezing, and the crop will be kept fresh until it is needed. After you have finished harvesting your summer vegetables, plant a cover crop of clovers, cow peas, soybeans, or vetches for the purpose of plowing under next spring. These nitrogen producing plants will provide good organic matter and food for your garden crops next year, as well as helping to control weeds over the winter. Lawn Keep mowing as long as your grass is growing....

House Plants Both Christmas Cactus and Poinsettias need to be kept indoors in a spot where they get ten hours of bright light and fourteen hours of total darkness, each day. Room temperatures should be around 65 to 70 degrees for the Poinsettias, but cooler (around 55 to 60) for the Christmas cactus.

The longer your house plants were allowed to remain outside in the fall, the more shock they will go through when they are finally moved indoors. If you haven't brought them in yet, do it now!!

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Odds and ends You are probably sick of hearing it... but get those slugs!!! The fall rains have once again gotten slugs and snails moving through the garden. One last application of slug bait will eliminate a lot of slugs and prevent them from reproducing again this fall. Result: Fewer slugs next spring......

One last effort at weeding will help to improve the appearance of your garden throughout the winter. Any weed which you can eliminate from the garden this fall will possibly prevent thousands of weed seeds from sprouting in the garden next spring!

Keep lawn and garden raked clean of leaves and debris. Fallen leaves, old plant parts and grass clippings should be added to the compost pile.

Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage. Place some sand and some oil in a large bucket, then slide your garden tools in and out of the sand. This will do an excellent job of cleaning them, as well as applying a light coat of oil to prevent rusting.

Clean your gutters and downspouts to remove fallen leaves and other debris. Plugged gutters can cause serious damage to your home as well as your garden when the winter rain and snow arrives.

Send in your requests for gardening catalogs now, so that you will have something to read and ponder on those looooooong winter nights ahead.

Mark your perennials with permanent tags, or create a map showing their locations so you'll know where and what they are when they die back at the end of the season. This will help you to avoid digging up something you intended to keep when you plant bulbs and plants this fall and next spring.

The birds will soon begin their winter migrations. Give them a helping hand by providing them with some food for their long journey. No one likes to travel on an empty stomach, and you may even persuade a few of them to stick around for the winter, if they know they have a reliable food source!

Continue to watch for insect, or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Gardening in the month of NovemberOctober 12, 1999

It's cold, it's wet and it's nasty out, and the last thing on your mind is playing in the mud in your garden.......

It's really hard to get motivated to do much of anything outdoors, but there are a few tasks and chores which you should do on those days when the weather is

favorable!

Here are a few gardening tasks and projects that you can do this month to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season, and

prepare for the long cold winter and upcoming spring.Perennials, annuals, and bulbs Make sure that the canes of your climbing roses and other vining plants are securely fastened to their supports. Winter winds can whip and severely damage unprotected plants. Don't tie them so tightly that the string or twist-tie cuts into the stem. I recommend using a length of an old nylon stocking because it will stretch as the plant grows, rather than cutting into the stem, as string will do.

Mound five to six inches of soil around the bases of your hardy fuchsias and roses. Use soil from another part of the garden, rather than risking damage to the roots by digging around the base of the plant.

Cut Chrysanthemum stems to 2-3 inches from the soil once they have begun to die back.

You can continue to transplant your perennials throughout the fall and winter, as long as they remain dormant.

Tulip bulbs may still be planted in the early part of the month.

Tender bulbs should be dug up and stored in a cool, dark area after first frost.

Be sure that your tender plants are protected from frost. Mulching with bark, sawdust or straw will help create a blanket of protection over the root system. Should the weather get suddenly cold, place burlap, cloth or dark plastic over your tender plants to give them some added protection from the cold. Be sure to remove this covering when the weather has stabilized!.

Shrubs and trees One of the most asked questions at this time of year is "when can I transplant my shrubs and trees?" This month and throughout the next several months will be good times to transplant trees and shrubs. At this time of the year, most ornamentals have entered into dormancy, and can be safely dug and replanted. The key to transplanting is to dig a large root ball (get as much of the root system as is possible). Equally important, is getting the plant back into the prepared soil as quickly as possible, to keep the roots from drying out. (Only a transplanting fertilizer should be used at this time of the year.) Large trees or shrubs should be staked to protect them from wind whipping during winter storms.

Keep them staked until the roots have a chance to develop and anchor them.

As soon as the leaves fall from fruit trees, shade or flowering trees, raspberries and other deciduous plants, they can be sprayed for the first time with a dormant spray. This spraying helps control over-wintering insects and diseases. Apply according to label instructions.

Prune your evergreens to shape.

Fruits and veggies Cut the tops off your asparagus plants, and add a winter dressing of aged manure to the bed.

Cover strawberries two inches deep with hay or straw.

Secure your raspberry canes to stakes to protect them from wind whipping.

Lawn If you haven't already applied a fall or winter type of lawn fertilizer (20-9-9), now is the time to do it. This encourages good root development and helps improve the color of the lawn. Lime can also be applied, if needed.

Give your lawn a good raking to lift away accumulations of debris.

Keep leaves raked from the lawn. They should be composted. Alternatively, you can just mow over them, turning them to a mulch which adds important nutrients back to the lawn.

House Plants Winter heating dries the air out in your home considerably. Help your house plants survive by misting them or placing the pots on a pebble filled tray of water to ensure adequate humidity and moisture.

Pot up some spring flowering bulbs for indoor color during the winter. Store the pots in a cool, dark place, until new growth emerges from the soil, and then move them to a bright window.

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Odds and ends Please feed the birds and other small creatures which may not be able to find food due to snow on the ground or other causes. Their natural food sources have pretty much dried up by this time of the year. For only a few dollars you can feed an enormous number of birds. You don't have to be a bird watcher to enjoy the feeling that you get when you've helped out one of God's creatures.

Drain your hoses and put them away so they don't freeze and burst.

Continue to watch for insect, slug and snail, or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Use small stakes or markers where you've planted bulbs or late starting spring

plants in the perennial garden, to avoid disturbing them when you begin spring soil preparation. If you feel that stakes don't fit your landscape style.... you might consider marking stones with fingernail polish or paint, and set them on the planting spot (painted side down)

When you have finished your last mowing of the year, make sure that it is properly stored. Run it until it is out of fuel.... old gas can turn to varnish, and severely damage the engine.

Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage. Place some sand and some oil in a large bucket, then slide your garden tools in and out of the sand. This will do an excellent job of cleaning them, as well as applying a light coat of oil to prevent rusting.This is also a good month to restock any tools that have seen better days, while the prices are lower.

A tip from The 1899 Old Farmer's Almanac "Useful Hints": "Keep all fruit stones (pits), cooked or uncooked. Dry them slowly in the oven, put in a large jar, and in winter throw a handful on the fire of an evening. They will crackle for a moment, send up a bright flame, and fill the room with a delicious aroma."

Gardening in the month of DecemberNovember 16, 1999

The month of December has most people scurrying about with a long list of 'gotta-dos'. Probably the last thing on anyone's mind is working in the garden. Fortunately,

the list of gardening 'to-dos' for this month is more like a list of 'don't-dos'.

If you have been keeping up with your gardening tasks for the last few months, you should be able to take it pretty easy this month; (at least in the garden.)

There are a few things to keep an eye on, and a few optional things you can do in the garden. Your biggest concern will probably be tending to your house plants.

This year, consider purchasing a living Christmas tree for your home. They really aren't that much more expensive than a cut tree. This is an excellent

way to improve your landscape, and at the same time, save a tree. Before bringing a living tree into the house, water it thoroughly.

Living Christmas trees should not be kept in the house for any longer than 10 days.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs If you potted up some bulbs, such as hyacinths,

daffodils or tulips, last September for winter forcing, keep an eye on them. Make sure they remain moist, and in the dark until they have established their root systems. It is possible that they have already filled their containers with roots and that the new top growth has begun. If this is so, bring them into the house and set them in a cool room, in indirect light. After a week or so, move them into bright light, and watch them go to town!

Check on any corms and tubers which you dug up, and stored this fall. Remove and discard any which show signs of disease or rot.

Shrubs and trees Winter rains tend to make you forget about watering your garden. However, plants and shrubs which are growing beneath large evergreens or under the eaves of the house, may be bone dry by this time. Lack of water in the cold winter months can be fatal to many of these plants. A quick check will let you know if you need to do a little winter watering.

If there is a sudden drop in the temperature, provide extra protection for your more tender flowering plants like Rhododendrons, Camellias, Azaleas and Daphne. You can provide temporary, emergency protection by driving in three of four stakes around the plant, and then simply covering the plant with some type of cloth, like burlap, a sheet or an old blanket. Don't let this material come into direct contact with the leaves of the plant. Remove the cover completely, as soon as the weather moderates.

December is a good month to take cuttings of rhododendrons, azaleas, and other evergreen shrubs. The cutting should be taken from new tip growth, and kept in bright light, at about 70 degrees f.

Lawn Stay off frozen grass!!! House Plants Glossy leaved house plants such as Philodendrons, Rubber plants, and Palms should be sponged off periodically, to allow them to breathe.

Plants which have fuzzy, textured, or other non-glossy type leaves should be set in the sink and sprayed gently with room temperature water, until the dust is cleaned away. Be sure that the foliage is allowed to dry completely.

Provide your house plants with extra humidity by grouping plants together, or by setting the pots on leakproof trays filled with moistened pebbles.

If you successfully kept last years plants alive, and have been keeping it in 14 hours of darkness since September, your Poinsettias and and Christmas cactus should be ready bring back into the living room by December first.

With the proper care, these Christmas plants will remain beautiful for many weeks. They prefer to be kept on the cool side, 65-70 degrees during the day and 55-

60 at night. Keep them in bright, natural light whenever possible. Keep them away from heat sources. Keep them out of drafts. Be sure to water them when they become dry.

Never allow them to stand in water for more than an hour.

Odds and ends Take care of our feathered friends! Keep your bird feeder filled, especially when there is snow on the ground.

Don't let your hose freeze and burst. Stretch it out with both ends open, to allow the water to drain completely. Coil it up and put it away.

Make sure your outdoor faucets are covered to protect them from freezing.

When you go out partying this season..... PLEASE bring along a designated driver, or take a cab.[Click Here]Above all else, have a happy and SAFE holiday season.

January

With the passing of the Winter Solstice on December 21st the days have started to get longer, you may not notice this yourself but the plants will. From this point on the plants in the garden will try to increase their growth rate in proportion to the amount of light they receive, however the temperature will reduce the amount of nutrients they can absorb from the soil. That's why plants which have stored their food over winter in the form of bulbs get a head start.

As the next two months are when we get the coldest temperatures and most of the snow, this is a great time to finish, or start, planning for the year ahead. Review the successes, and failures of the previous year. For us the warm dry weather we have been having for the past years had made us complacent, and last years wet summer ruined many of our crops. This year we'll grow out Tomatoes in a greenhouse for example, as our entire crop was ruined by blight, as where the early Winter Potatoes. Our Courgette's also suffered from the moisture, but we did discover the 'Zucchini' from Dobies really did grow as a small bush, and not as a huge trailing plant. Our Peppers and Chili's were all grown on Window sills and they where fantastic. The best results where obtained from a South facing window sill where we fed the Peppers on liquid Tomato food. We also had great success with Aubergines grown in the same way.

For 2008 we are looking to take on an allotment to test different techniques, such as mixed sowings, and intercropping. We will add to the web site a section dedicated to allotment gardening which will cover techniques and planning guides to improve the productivity of an allotment.

The Gardeners Calendar Team

The Vegetable Garden in January

Plant Garlic cloves either in pots ready to transplant later Order seed potatoes

Prepare ground for Asparagus

Over the Christmas break we have been looking at the fruits and vegetables we like the best and could do with growing more of them at home. The first thing that came to mind was garlic. We use loads of garlic each year so I have ordered 100 cloves of different varieties to trial this year. We will keep an eye on them as the year progresses. Another crop we are going to trial is the Purple Sprouting Broccoli, (Brassica oleracea Cymosa Group), Not to be confused with the Calibrese sold in supermarkets as Broccoli. We will get around to the broccoli in mid-spring.

If you are planning to show Onions at you local village or county show then get them into pots in January.

The Fruit garden in January

Plant Fruit trees and canes

Calendarul gradinii de legume si pomi fructiferi2009 februarie 9tags: agricole, calendar, februarie, lucrariby Elisa

FEBRUARIE- Se incearca semintele sanatoase punand cateva din ele sa incolteasca in muschi sau nisip umezit. - Livada doarme sub amortirea iernii; in zilele frumoase se pot curata pomii de frunzele uscate – in ele se ascund dusmani din primavara; tot in aceste zile se sapa

pomii la radacina si se pune gunoi, se acopera cu pamant sapat, sau se aduna zapada la radacina lor.– si pamantul are viata lui; din cand in cand nu strica sa se puna pe el gunoi. Pe straturile de langa casa se pune gunoi de pasari, cenusa pentru ingrasarea pamantului.

MARTIE- repicatul rasadurilor in cuburi sau ghivece nutritive destinate culturilor timpurii de camp (tomate, ardei, vinete)- insamantarea in rasadnite sau solarii incalzite biologic a legumelor destinate culturilor de vara (varza, tomate)- plantarea in prima jumatate a lunii in solarii sau tunele a verzei timpurii, conopidei timpurii si gulioarelor- plantatul si semanatul din timp a mazarei, verzei si conopidei timpurii, a cepei din arpagic si samanta, a usturoiului de primavara, a morcovului, patrunjelului, spanacului, ridichii de luna, etc.- in a doua jumatate a lunii se planteaza in rasadnite castravetii, ardeii- se pregatesc solariile pentru tomate, ardei, vinete- se continua protejarea verdeturilor cu polietilena si recoltarea verdeturilor produse in sistem fortat- se practica supraaltoirea pomilor (unde e cazul) dupa metoda prin despicatura, copulatie sau triangulatie- fertilizarea suplimentara cu azot- dezgropatul si demusuroitul vitei de vie- se face taierea radacinilor pornite din altoi (taierea de rodire si copcitul)- in legumicultura se continua dezinfectarea rasadnitelor, solariilor, cu formalina sau sulfat de cupru;- pomii fructiferi se pot stropi cu solutie sulfo-calcica, impotriva fainarii; peste 2 saptamani se mai face o stropire impotriva moniliei, cu o solutie pe baza de cupru. Tot in aceasta luna putem pregati terenul pentru plantarea de noi pomi fructiferi: se sapa si se gunoieste pentru a fi reavan, apoi, spre sfarsitul lunii, se pot planta(Gradina mea .ro)CE FACEM NOI IN GRADINA NOASTRA,ACUM?1.Stropim pomii2.Curatam pomii de crengi uscate si frunze,fructe ramase.3. Indepartam crengile de la corcodusi si de la meri,ca-s prea dese si obtureaza lumina spre alti pomi mai mici,deci rarim crengile.4.Imprastiem gunoiul,in afara de parcela pe care urmeaza sa semanam morcovii.5. Sapam pe langa pomi,introducem gunoi de grajd si acoperim,sau imprastiem gunoiul de pasare depozitat pe langa pomi6.Adunam uscaturile de pe salata,spanac ,ceapa si usturoiul, din toamna puse si rasarite.7.Facem rasadurile de flori,de vinete,ardei si rosii.adica semanam in cutii,in casa.8.Cautam seminte de tot felul de dovlecei(am vazut la Jamie Oliver in gradina),ca vreau sa am in gradina toate formele si culorile,comestibili.9.Am cumparat seminte de morcovi,din aia carota ca-s dulci si au forma frumoasa…tubulara.10.Sterg cu privirea de la est la vest si invers gradina,desenez parcela toata si o impart in parcelute astfel ca sa asigur rotirea culturilor(nu punem doi ani la rand ceapa in acelasi loc…de exemplu ).

11.Ingrijim rasadurile dupa ce rasar.12. Semintele de rosii ,de la mine,le voi trata cu zeama bordeleza,sa nu se perpetue vreo boala de anul trecut.

PENTRU LEGUME SI POMI

APRILIE- pana la mijlocul lunii aprilie se mai pot planta in gradina:- radacinoasele (morcovi, patrunjel, pastarnac) in randuri, distanta de 25 cm; salata, spanacul; - se seamana soiuri de mazare tarzie, sfecla rosie si samanta de ceapa;- de la mijlocul lunii incepe:- plantatul varzoaselor, guliei si conopidei;- semanatul cartofilor preincoltiti la distanta de 70 cm intre randuri, iar pe rand, intre cuiburi, 30-40 cm, la adancimea de 10 cm;- semanatul fasolei, castravetelui, pepenelui si dovlecelului;- se mai poate semana inca sfecla rosie la 30 cm intre randuri;- plantarea telinei la distanta de 40 cm intre randuri si pe rand;- semanatul porumbului;- semanatul florilor anuale, plantatul trandafirilor, al daliilor, gladiolelor, crinilor;- la sfarsitul lunii se poate planta rasadul de rosii timpurii si ardei;- Atentie la semanat! Combinatii bune: morcovi-mazare, semanate alternativ; ceapa-morcov, semanate alternativ; ceapa-sfecla rosie-gulie; cartof timpuriu-mazare; cartof-fasole sau ridiche de luna cu fasolea. Combinatii rele: ceapa-usturoi; morcov-patrunjel; mazare-fasole; castravete-cartof;- În livada se uda bine pomii fructiferi plantati in primavara si se incepe pregatirea pentru stropitul lor.

MAI- incepe plantarea rasadurilor de legume. Vom planta rasadurile de ardei, rosii, castraveti, varza, gulie, conopida, broccoli, telina, ceapa (din seminte), praz, vinete;- inainte de plantarea rasadurilor este necesar sa faceti o erbicizare a solului cu urmatoarele substante: Dithane 0,5%, Captan 5%, Merpan 0,5%. De asemenea, uneltele trebuie dezinfectate cu solutie de Carbetox 0,4% sau sulfat de cupru 2-3%.- plantarea rasadurilor de varza timpurie, conopida, broccoli si castraveti se face numai pe pamant umed, la o temperatura de 7-10 grade Celsius. daca nu a plouat, udati terenul, operatiune care se repeta si dupa plantare;- rasadurile vor avea roade dupa 50-60 de zile, timp in care trebuie sa prasiti de 2 ori si sa udati din 10 in 10 zile. Controlati mereu rasadurile pe masura ce cresc si nu ezitati sa folositi insecticide daca vor aparea paraziti: purici, fluturi, muste.

PENTRU FLORIAPRILIE– pe masura ce timpul se incalzeste, se scot plantele de apartament afara, luandu-se masuri de protejare impotriva soarelui arzator de la pranz (prin acoperire cu ziare), iar impotriva eventualelor brume sau ingheturi, plantele se acopera cu folii de polietilena (noaptea);

- se continua insamantarea in gradina a diverselor flori care se inmultesc prin insamantare directa (salvia, tagetes, tropaeolum, verbena, zinnia, etc.);- se face repicatul rasadurilor la plantele care au fost insamantate in cutii sau rasadnite, in luna precedenta;- se dezgroapa (desmusuroiesc) trandafirii si se executa taierile;- se incepe transplantarea unor plante de apartament, la care este indicata aceasta lucrare;- incepe plantatul gladiolelor.MAI

– se continua plantarea bulbilor de gladiole;- se planteaza rizomii de canna si tuberculii de dalie;- se continua transplantarea unor plante de apartament;- se butasesc seculentele si cactusii;- se planteaza la locul definitiv rasadurile produse in rasadnite, ghivece, cutii;- se incepe udatul se se aplica primele ingrasaminte suplimentare.(Gradina Mea.ro)

CE FAC EU IN ACEASTA PERIOADA,DAR MAI INTAI CE-AM FACUT PANA ACUM:

1* am semanat mazarea,salata si salata chinezeasca

1* bis  am mutat zmeura

2*  am mutat (plantat) capsunii si mi-am facut un rond de capsuni in mijlocul curtii,la soare…ca nu mai aveam unde sa-i pun

3* am sapat ceapa,usturoiul,spanacul si salata..toate astea semanate asta-toamna

4*  am repicat vinetele si rosiile(doar cele crescute mari),panselutele,clarkia,creasta cocosului,varza de Bruxelle si, ieri ..brocoli

5* am ingrijit rasadurile si florile din casa (iar am uitat de orhideele mele si va trebui azi sa-mi fac timp sa le ud..caci ele saracutele ma bucura cu doua frunze)

6*  sunt sigura ca am facut mai mult decat atat…dar voi stiti asta asa ca trec la ce urmeaza…

7*  am semanat morcovi printre ceapa,desi mai sus nu se zice ca se potrivesc impreuna,dar va spun eu ca le place compania asta morcovilor si desigur ca si cepii

8*  sotul meu a sapat ieri toata dupamasa cu harletul o parte din gradina

9*  ieri am semanat flori in cutii ,coltunasi,tataise(ochiul boului),floarea soareleui ornamentala(in rondul de capsuni) si o serie de soiuri de busuioc si alte plante pentru verdeata ,primite de la sora mea.

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1* nu am pus gunoi la pomi deci asta voi face cand se opreste ploaia

2* trebuie sa repic si ardeii ca-s foarte mari si mi-e teama ca se imbolnavesc asa de inghesuiti.

3* trandafirii chinezesti au musculita aia alba care se muta la vinetele repicate si trebuie sa sropesc cu fastac

4*  trebuie sa scot muscatele afara,dar mi-e ca vine iar frigul noaptea,insa trebuie sa fac loc in balcon pentru ca treptat mut rasadurile din  ghivece acolo…

5* in rest o sa fac ce spune in calendar.

6*  sa tund via

Un anotimp destul de aglomerat pentru grădinari, totodată este și anotimpul când se recoltează roadele muncii depuse dea-lungul sezonului.

Septembrie semănarea gazonului plantarea pomilor fructiferi plantarea tufelor de trandafirilor, sau a butașilor (se poate continua și în

Octombrie, Noiembrie) plantarea florilor bulboase aplicarea îngrășământului de toamnă pe gazon

Octombire culegerea viei tăierea de toamna a trandafirilor curățarea grădinii, ultima tundere a gazonului săparea adâncă a pământului în grădina de legume

Noiembrie adunarea frunzelor uscate de pe gazon mușuroirea trandafirilor și a viței de vie după căderea frunzelor se aplică tratamentul de toamnă la pomii fructiferi curățarea uneltelor de grădinărit, pregătirea lor pentru depozitarea pe timpul

iernii și adunarea mobilierului de grădină, a furtunilor, în locuri ferite de umezeală

Iarna

Anotimp de pauză/odihnă pentru natură, dar nu neapărat și pentru grădinari…

Decembrie planificarea modificărilor și lucrărilor de anul viitor tăierile de formare și de menținere a pomilor fructiferi lucrările generale de iarnă, verificarea periodică a grădinii

Ianuarie consultarea literaturii de specialitate se pot continua tăierile (tunderile) pomilor fructiferi (se pot efectua oricând pe

timpul perioadei de repaos) să nu uităm de hrănirea păsărilor din grădină, ne vor răsplăti prin participare

activă în combaterea dăunătorilor din grădină în lunile de iarnă, dacă zăpada abundă în grădină o puteți aduna în piramidă

la baza pomilor fructiferi (când se topește, va ajunge direct la rădăcini) este perioada potrivită pentru a ne ocupa de uneltele de grădinărit: curățat,

reparat, fixat cozi, ascuțit lame etc.

Februarie deja ne putem apuca de planificarea grădinii de legume putem începe să punem seminţele de legume la încolţit dacă aveți căsuțe pentru păsări puteți face o revizie generală și o curățare ca

să fie totul pregătit pentru păsări, ele vă vor răsplăti primăvara pentru cazarea oferită.

Lista de mai sus este departe de a fi completă, asa că vă rog, nu uitați că sunteți într-un mediu interactiv, folosiți cu încredere comentariile pentru sugestii sau completări…mă bazez pe experiența voastră pentru completarea listei!

Voi ce mai faceți în perioada asta în grădina?

http://hobbygradina.ro/calendarul-gradinarului-calendar-fenologic/